240hoke

Afshin - Heres a link to my webpage its rather weak but i do have a list of most of the mods ive done. Someday ill get off my butt and work on that page -- or rather on my butt. http://www.geocities.com/datsun260zt

Reclocking the trubo is super easy. You just loosen the bolts on the housing and spin it wherever you want. there is one thing i forgot about if you do this. You *may* have to make a new bracket for your wastegate actuator, but then again you may not. Jut have to mes with it and see... -Austin

Hey guys, just wanted to give a little update on my car. Got it tuned on a mustang dyno at P1 auto. http://www.p1auto.com I put down 245 hp and 305 ft/lbs @ 12psi. I have heard that for a 2500lbs car the mustang dyno gives 15% lower readings then the dynojet. But havent got it on a dynojet yet to verify. Anyhow also an update on my 5k rpm problem...... Turns out there wasnt a problem at all. On the first dyno run we noticed that at 5K the mixture dove rich... really rich really fast. Anyhow it just so happens that the factory tach goes crazy at 5K just because. That mixed with the bog/stumble of the engine threw me off..... stupid me. Sooo..... I just a got a new boost controller (Greddy profecB -spec II) and the boost is going to 14psi for now. Then once i get time to upgrade my mapp sensor to 3 bar i plan on running 18psi..... cheers -Austin

Have you thought about clocking the turbo outlet towards the ground? This way you could run you pipe under the front radiator support. I looked at this possiblity when trying to setup my pipes, but my IC was simply to larget o get creative with hte placment. It looks like you could put that thing where ever you wanted. I think 2.25' piping would be the best choice, i think it is plenty big and would allow you much more room to plumb the pipes in your e-bay. Also i would think you could get tighter mandrel bends with the smaller diameter piping. I know mine was a pain to get plumbed. Anyway heres a pic of my setup, course i dont have a fan shroud, mech fan, or distributor, im also running 2.5" piping. i believe that you could work 2.25" piping across the front of the engine bay as long as you were careful and made some bracket to hold it all in place. cheers -Austin

great pics yo, thats appears to be how ive got mine setup, im not sure what the 3rd line going into the boost controller is but i think ive got it setup right. Anyhow its been raining all day so.... i found a 3.7 r200 in a junkyard and am in the process of swapping it out tonight for my original 3.36 r180. Should be fun but anyway it'll be tomarrow before i get the car out and find some more info on the BC setup

Yeah thats basically the what my actuator loooks like. Its a turbonetics unit. yo2001. Im pretty confident that the boost signal would go to the back port (the one away from the wastegate) because it is that signal which has to push the diaphram forward --- correct? i wanna get this thing figured out! Im goingto play with it sommore right now. need boost!!!!!!!!! -Austin

yeah i think i may switch back and use it as a regular actuator. If it never sees a boost signal until the solinoid opens i dont see how the dual port could be any better as far as boost response goes -Austin

thanks for the replies im using the ProfecB-spec II. It has a feature called gain to compensate for falling boost or rising boost. I can hook it up just like a normal internal wastgate by using the "NO" port but that gives a boost signal to the wastegate when the desired setting is reached. I just want it opened to atmosphere. -Austin

Ok you got me confused on that one can you explain "the overshoot setting of the dipswitches" never heard of it. My dual port wastegate actuator is just like a regular actuator for an internal wastegate, except that it has a vaccum port on both sides of the diaphram. What im trying to do is have a boost signal on both sides of the diaphram when under boost and then when the desired boost level is achieved for the boost controll valve to open the front port of the actuator essentially sucking it open. I dunno everything seems to be set up correctly. Would the tension on the actuator rod have an effect on how it operates? Im thinking it may be setup up too tight. I dunno i need to get out and mess with it some more. -Austin

Ok guys, I finshed installing my Boost controller. And im having this probelm: The boost continues to slowly rise. I tried lowering the gain value but nothing changes. Im curious if i have the valve hooked up right. Since im using a dual port wastegate actuator there werent any instructions in the book. I hooked it up like the external wastegate drawing. I ran a "T" off the turbo housing to the back port on the actuator and to the boost control valve (NC port). Then i ran a line out of the "COM" port on the boost control valve to the front port on the actuator. I dunno any ideas? -Austin

What he's saying is that when you go to a water cooled housing you are pretty much buying a new turbo. Becuase you will have a new compressor housing and bearing section, the only thing you will be reusing is the exhaust housing whihc would be poitnless IMO. Anyway i bought mine from top end performance, took them about 1.5 weeks to get it to me. -Austin

Went with a buddy to the nearest truck weigh station to get my car weighed. The DMV guy was really cool and didnt give us any crap about doing it. Anyway it's a early 260z, with an l28et swap. No weight reduction except little bit off on the brakes and no spare tire. Anyway with a 1/4 tank of fuel it came in at: 2560lbs not bad! Gonna take the 90 300zx up there tomarrow just for kicks lol -Austin

You have so send in for security clearence. Its just a few forms you gotta fill out and send to each administrator. if they deem you fit they will send you the secret codes. Actually just try logging in and then going to the album -Austin

You can buy it direct from Racetech. They aree in canada. Really great people to work with. http://www.sdsefi.com ^ has all the contact info -Austin

And i'll give you my right. That way youll have two balls and wont have any need for all that power mike we'll figure out some way to share this thing -Austin

talk to the guys at Top End Performance, they can have a turbo built to your specs. They do alot of work with turbo z's and can help you out in picking the right turbo. I'm using a t3/t4 super-h stage 5 .82 turbo. They reccomended this as it can flow enough air for over 400hp. But it is definitly slower to boost then the stock t3, much more power when it hits though and it keeps coming -Austin

I was wondering what the advantages and disadvantages there are to mounting the throttle body to the turbo inlet. I saw some pics of a setup like this in corky's book and made me curious. It would make for a really clean looking engine bay and make custom manifold building alot easier. Anyway I thought it was neat but was wondering why is is not done more, or really at all? -Austin

i wet my pants everytime is see those pics Btw i think it would be cool to make a sticky post and everyone could post one pic of their engine in it. it would be a good reference to see what others had done and too keep up to date with what everybody is running. i know there arent alot of turbo guys one here so it should be fesible. We would have to keep it clean just a pic no comments really. anyway heres a pic of my new setup: -Austin

okay guys, the first couple times i took my car out i had absolutly no troubles out of it. Yesterday and today I noticed some problems. the gas gauge was reading all full the entire time, then the car started bucking and surging. i was afriad it might be outta gas. Anyway i got the the gas station and when i took of the cap it literally blew off in my hand! Lots of pressure build up, stupid me forgot to vent the tank. All the vents were closed off except for one which i routed back to the filler tube. Anyhow I thought that was my problem. So i drilled a couple very samll holes in the gas cap. Seemed to fix the pressure issue and my guage now works. It might not have fixed it enough though. But at anyrate, ive got to figure out somthing else to do because the holes in the gas cap dont fit my dirving style, gas comes out -- these are little holes!. Anyhow, any tips on what else could be causnig this? I do have the fuel pump mounted straight up and down but i didnt think that would really matter. Fuel rpessure stays constant. SDS programmer reads no break in ignition signal. Sorry if this is confusing lemme know if i need to clarify -Austin

Hey, -SlownRusty -- havent been able to drive it much since i finshed the motor, its been iced over and i just got my wisdom teeth pulled yesterday.. ugh. Anyway Hopfully get a few more miles on her this weekend. The motor seems to be runing great on my SDS mapps but i really need to get it to the dyno to check my timing and fuel curves. -Jersery -- Yes that is the stock FPR mounted to the front, i ran my feed line to the back of the rail. So the FPR is last. Hopfully in the future ill be upgrading to an adjustable FPR and SS lines.

Yeah mike, nice site. You need to get to updatin too i wanna see sommore suspension pics. i think i answered the questions about the brakes but if ya got sommore just im me. peace -Austin

Thanks for the note aux, i did mean 15/16", fixed. Ill try and get my brake writeup this weekend, im outta space in my personal album, although i believe i did post a few pics in the public album a few weeks ago, along with a buddy of mines c5 swap -Austin

thats sooo bad.. but im LMAO

no ebrake right now and no provision for one, im going to install a manual line lock. -Austin

Well i decided to try and put together a website. My last efforts were rather weak and never really got around to anything. Anyway gonna try and keep it simple, as i get the time i'll fill in some info about each mod ive done to the car. Hopefully I'll get it done lol http://www.geocities.com/datsun260zt -Austin