240hoke

DO IT YOURSELF!!!! Im j/p i know this guy in mooresville who does awesome work! Kinda pricey though. Second of all a g/f is no excuss you should train her to help you work on teh car instead of being her bitch, and your car should be your life, BE HARDCORE.

Hey Mark! Car is looking awesome. Nice to see you at the z jam this weekend, and hope to see these z's of yours out on the road soon!

Im have a pair of Corbeau A4's in my car and i love them. I did make custom seat rails to lower the seat down about an inch and also moved them inboard just slightly. The seats fit really snug (Im a 34) and give lots of support and looks very at home in a z. Also good price, I paid 600 for two of them shipped. -Austin

No updates, I filed a dispute on paypal since it almost been a month and they give you 45 days. Ill see how everything goes. 4 days till move in day at state : (. Wish I had a little more time but ill be home to try and finish her on the weekends. -Austin

I mean to make no judgements on Alex at all, Im am just curious given my situation what I should do. I dont doubt that he has gone on a trip or has had an emergengy. I just wish I could hear an update., I thought perhaps yall might know what was up. That being said though I cant wait around forever, I guess I'll be giving paypal a call tomarrow. Let me put it this way if I miss the deadline as one of you mentioned I will be out 800 dollars, if i infact dont recieve the pistons, this means I wont be able to finsh my car for a year as ill be in college with no way to make money, this would make me more then just a little pissed off. But ill be missing SEZ another time no matter what since it will take another 6 weeks for anotehr set of pistons

Hey Guys, Bear with me here and give me your 2 cents. Several weeks ago I found out I couldnt run a set of stock pistons I had been planning on running in my new turbo motor, when I found out I needed a new set I decided to go forged. I had seen Alex Costa's ads on hybrid many times and also I talk to him a good bit on AIM. I told him I was looking for a set of forged 280zxt pistons. To my surprise he said he had a set (forged and coated JE pistons stock specs) that he was gonna use for his personal engine and he would let me have them since he was going a different direction. We agreed on a price and I sent him the money via paypal. I would have custom ordered them from a company but i was in a hurry and I thought this would be perfect, Alex said he could get them to me in a week. Fast forward 4 weeks and I have heard ABOSLUTLY NOTHING from him. Since my E-check clear I have not seen him online, he will not respond to my emails, and I have called him and left messages several times on his phone and I have heard nothing back. I am getting very worried as I have not heard or seen anything of my pistons. I think Alex is a good guy from talking with him and mike, but I am wondering what I should do. I cant help but feel like im am getting ripped off as i havent heard anything at all from him. What should my course of action be? from you that know him is he gone or in trouble? should I go ahead and contact paypal and see if i can get my money back? This ordeal has really stalled my project I was hoping to havem my motor done and in by school and have the car ready for SEZ. Im getting ready to head off to school next weekend, he has alot of my money and I dont have any Pistons PLease give me advice

you might better rethink that! 150cc?? Better not try and merge into traffic or pull out in front of anybody, thats basically a scooter. If i was buying a bike the smallest thing I would get is a 600cc streetbike. I rode one for almost a year and loved it -- my first bike was a '98 cbr600f4and my second bike was a '00 cbr600f4.

heres my walboro setup running the welded fittings. Filter is a peterson 600 series.

Damn! i wish i would have seen this post two days ago! Oh well Ive already made up my fittings, i found out that 1/8" NPT thread works perfectly on the walboro pump -- only thing is that they dont make 1/8"NPT - 8an fittings -- sooooooooooo i TIG'd two together for a custom fitting. Works jsut fine, oh well SIGH On a side note a 1/8"NPT to -6AN adaptors are commonplace in all the stores around here soooo if your running -6an line then this is another option. You jsut have to use sealant when you go this route.

Hey cyrus sorry it took me soo long to get back with you. I happened to get the sound deadening from a friend who builds body dropped trucks, he had an extra roll laying around. So i didnt get aroudn to asking him who made it until today. Its called fatmat seemed to work great pretty much the same as any sound deadener I went to their website and dont see any technical data on it and how it compares to dynomat -- I will say it's cheap and ill let you know how it works when my car is on the road!

The thing I didnt like about zero rust -- ad btw i love the product i painted the entire undernieth of my car ith it before undercoating. -- Is that is it flat black, you may be able to get it in different colors, but flat colors are very hard to clean and hold dirt. Nothing is really gonna stand up like powdercoating but i agree if it chips its doesnt look to great and you cant jsut touch it up.

*oh god i just ruined my keyboard with puke* i hate to say it but that looks horrible. Must admit though somebody put ALOT of time into it, im not sure if im imprssed or not though. I think it would make a great pimp my ride car.

Heres my front caliper that i pc'd my self. These were a pain to get every cranny bead blasted and then even powder in the fins but they turned out awesome heres a shot of the front supension all pc'd -- i woudl say ther is about 20 dollars worth of powered on the entire front suspension.

I would recommend a 2 part epoxy paint or powdercoating. Btw you can do powedercaoting yourself -- i personally have the eastwood gun and it works awesome the whole kit is 130 bucks to get started. Youll also need an old kitchen oven and a sandblaster. PC'ing works great, lasts a long time, and is super durable, not to mention about any color is availible. Check out eastwood's website. -Austin

Well i got my information out of the "appendix j, rollbar specification, solo 1" section of my 20004 SCCA national solo book. Its on page 276, im was just typing whats written... im not really into scca racing right now so maybe im wrong I think the difference is that i am looking in a solo book and this is the specification for rollbars and not cages but i dunno. Im here to learn correct me.

Not trying to be a techincal pain in the *** but... according to the SCCA rule book a vehicle weighing between 2001-3500 pounds must use 1.750 x .120 if mild steel is used. They recommend the use of mild steel because "chromium alloys present difficulties in welding and must be normalized to relieve stress" To keep the wall thickness at least .120 throughout the rollbar it is nessecary to use .134 due to variences in wall thickness from manufacturing and from streching that occurs when the metal is bent. Im not trying to stick up for S&W really but if you wanna pass tech and your a company that sells stuff to pass regualtions there are certain things that must be used. And I also think in many cases SCCA rules are good guidlines to building a safe street car.

Well Had some bad luck this morning. I dropped my Panasports off at Griffin Brothers Tire this morning to have the tires dismounted so I could polish the lips up and repaint them. They said no problem just leave em here for a couple hours we should be able to get to them by this afternoon, so i put them at the edge of the bay closest to the office right where they said.... anyway i go back home and am wokring on my car when they call me about 1.5 hours later. Happily i pick up the phone thinking they were done and I am informed that some a$$hole drove off with my wheels before they could do anything about it..... *insert devil face* Anyway they got the police up there and filed a police report, they said they got the tag number of the truck and have a warrent out for their arrest but said it was more then likely i wouldnt be geting them back. Anyway... the shop's insurance will cover my rims and tires but im bummed out because it will likely take be a big hassle and take a little while to get new rims.

... but one can very easily take that horizontal bar and make it into a diagonal.... as i did. Anyway i will state that for somebody on a budget that doesnt mind taking there time and doing fabbing the S&W kit is a great place to get your hoop and steel, just dont follow there tubing placement. Tie in the cage to the struts towers in the back and make a diagonal for the main bar.. katman its no 200mph roll cage but take a look at my site couple posts above and tell me whats wrong with it. I chose not to do a full cage due to the fact i dont wear a helmet while im driving my car all the time lol. but at anyrate It should pass any tech where scca requires a roll bar or any drag racing application.

when done right i dont see what the problem is. It takes some fabricating and redoing the cage but thats nothing most of us cant do on this board. As long as you put the bars in the right place and reinforce the mounting points i honestly dont see how it is "unsafe". Unless you believe the quality of the steel is bad???? Which i dont see. The pipes are 1.75" .134" so it legal and with a diagonal crossbrace its scca legal too for some types of racing depending on wheather you go full or half. Anyway check my site, I think the cage I built both stiffens the cars and will be safer in a wreck. But there again lol i dont really support S&W it takes a WHOLE LOT MORE WORK then it worth, might as well go custom. However these days it costs just as much to buy the stell as the s&W kit almost.

heres what i did http://www.geocities.com/projectzt/halfcage if you have them bend you one, i didnt know you could do that but if you do, ask them to add 1" to the width of the main hoop. If will fit alot better you can see from my pictures the oop could stand to be closer to teh doors.

To answer the DA questions -- yes they are priceless. I used it to rough cut the bondo down and also to go over the areas that required no body work. All i ever used on my DA was 80 grit. For final shaping of the bondo i used 80 grit on a block or did it by hand. After the whole car was finished in 80 grit I blocked the whole thing with 320 and layed my primer (3 coats). After primer I knocked the orange peal off with 320 and wet sanded with 500.

I actually looked at a few painting books buttttt... they were very confusing and seemed to make it ALOT more complicated then it is. I actually just went to my local paint store one day and started talking with them. They helped me get setup with what type of paint and primer and told me what to do between each step. I followed their advice and everything went pretty smooth. The actual painting doesnt take most of the time its the body work you just have to take your time and do everything till its right. Ooo and some advice i found out -- dont use regular bondo -- spend the extra 20 bucks and buy some high qulity stuff. It spreads easy and the stuff i used had NO pinholes! -- painless makes universal wiring kits (read pain-ful), im in the middle of the install now, so far everything is really nice every single wire is individually marked, anyway ill make another post about it when im done.