240hoke

what boost controller are you using?

I am looking into doing an RB25det conversion right now. Hopefully i will be able to pull togehter enough money. I have been searching around on this site and havent found alot of info. Found alot on the rb26dett swap. But not too much on the rb25 Form what i gather you need to do custom motor mounts to sit the engine low in the ebay so the hood will clear the intake manifold. Im thinking possibly Brad D's mounts will work, but havent found any info on them. Im curious as to weather the stock rb25 oil pan will work. I think though that the fairlady z31 oil pickup and pan are required. But im not sure sombody lemme know. All in all though this looks to be a promisng swap. Im hoping i can pull it off for rather cheap. I can get a r33 front clip for 3 grand which should include most of what i need heres what ive put together: rb25 front clip: 3,000 tranny mount: 100 motors mouts: 100 oil pan/ pickup: 500 cutom exhaust: 500 intercooler and plumbing: 600 this is assuming you already have the car setup for EFI and the suspension/brakes etc etc are alreayd built and up to the task. -Austin

Like i said im not positive that im going to do this and it will be a couple months before i have the money to start but.. If i go rb i think that i will use the stock electronics. The newer rb25's put out 280hp stock and the factory wiring will take it quite far.... My sds is the nicest one you can buy. I paid around 1800 for it new. If i sold the SDS seperatly more then likely i would want to sell the euro pulley and hall sensor mount with it. This would be an almost plug and play thing. I would guess 1200-1300 for the entire SDS setup?? i dunno I dont have a "downpipe" Its all part of the exhaust, but coming off the turbo is 2 45 degree stainless bends that go to 3" aluminized piping. This exhuast is setup to work with the turbo on he motor witch has the ford 3 bolt wastgate housing... -Austin

OK, I just got to thinking today, and ive been doing alot of research. I'm *thinking* about doing an rb25det install this summer. i dont want to be a sellout , and I would feel kinda bad selling all my stuff, but the skyline engine is tempting and i can get a clip for about 3K. How much do you guys think I could get for my setup if i follow through with this?? I would be willing to sell everything or part it out. Here's what i got: l28et block, p90head: everything is rebuilt, although i think cylinder 5 may have a burnt ring or somthing, it's 20 psi low. euro pulley t3/t4 stg 5 turbo dual port wastegate actuator n42 shaved intake black wrinkle powdercoated ZCC fuel rail 370cc SVO fuel injectors 60mm 240sx TB JSK Tb spacer NPR I/C All I/C plumbing ceramic coated Vortec BOV SDS EM4-6f (full standalone fuel/spark -- distributorless igntion ect.) full 3" exhaust above setup put out 245hp and 305ft.lbs at 11 psi. Hopefully i can pull in 3-4K from my summer job. I was wanting to get a motorcycle, but my parents wont let me so i figure i gotta find another way to kill myself and what better way then a rb swap!?! I would be trying to pull the swap off with money i earn over the summer plus what i can get for my stuff. Which being 17, is going to be hard so if i cant get a good deal for my stuff i guess the project is over. BUt bust my bubble and lemme know what you think i could get for everything. -Austin

I cut the whole end of my lower control arm off. It really insnt needed, or at least i hope not ahem. BUt i havet had any problems, i just took a hack saw to the end and then rounded it off nicely. -Austin

Ok guys after my fun run at trying to set my boost controller and visiting 18-20 psi several times on accident, i thought i should do a compression check.... all cylinders were at 145psi except for cylinder 5 which was at 125psi. I am also getting more blowby it seems, i already have alot but this is more then normal lol. Last time i blew the piston lands i had a 90 psi reading. What do you guys think? Am i good to run it like this for a couple months? I am hoping to go forged this summer when i get some money from working. -Austin

There are two ways to go about resetting to the stock curve. I believe SDS has all the stock curves listed on there website or in the manual, so you could reset them that way. You can also jump two pins on the hall sensor connection on the ECU (6 and 7 i believe) that will take you into the setup mode on the ECU and you can reset everything or change whatever you want. Ill get the exact pins to jump for you tomarrow if somebody else doesnt chime in. You could also call them. I found that i didnt need to change the MAPP values on my car, i just messed with the fuel curve. But i havent gone above 18psi yet. -Austin

Hey yo thanks for the reply So far as i can tell there are 3 function that have to do with controlling the boost. Set, Gain, and Set gain. I had the gain set at 0. This seemed to provide the least spike, I tried between 0 and 10. Perhaps I should try something higher. 10 gave a huge spike so i stopped messing with it and set it back to 0 There is another feature on the spec II called "Set Gain" This controlls when the gain feature is activated. LIke if you dont want the gain to start till 8psi then you can set it there. here is what my setting look like currently set: 68% gain: 0 set gain: 28 i dunno its killing me. and it doesnt seem like there is a linear relationship between set and the boost level. Its almost like im stabbing in the dark. And not controlling the boost in 4th gear kinda scares me alot. Anybody on the board have a SPECII??? -Austin

Ok im getting VERY frustrated with this unit. Basically its being a PITA to tune. The instructions are so so and im not really gettting any where... heres what happens: If I do a pull starting in third gear, it regulates the boost rather well. It spikes to 15-16 and then settles at 14psi. However I cant raise the boost, if I change anything im getting a big boost spike. It seems i cant get rid if it no matter what i do. But here is the wierd part: If i do a pull starting in 4th gear it doesnt regulate the boost at all! It has gotten up to 20+ psi and at that point the only thing stoping it is my foot. It will do this in third gear if i slowly roll on to the throttle, but it does it in 4th and 5th at WOT.

I wouldnt be surprised at all if the stock turbo just cant flow enough air to run 19psi in third gear. I know i wouldnt have done that with my t3. I thought hte max they could do was 18 and that was really pushing it. Anyhow im not sure if this makes sense or not, but isnt there more load on the engine at WOT in 4th and 5th then in 3rd since the engine is geared lower? I dunno i just figure more load = more boost -Austin

Im running the centerforce DF clutch. Im not putting out crazy power but its respectable, 250-300 rwhp. I dont have ANY trouble with slippage and it engages really nicely. When i drop the clutch it breaks stuff, so there isnt any trouble with grab. I do have one issue with the clutch though. It is can make ALOT of noise when its cold. I have no idea what causes it. But alot of times when im pulling it out of the garage in the morning it makes a REALLY loud "whirrr" sound. But it only last for a short while and never does it on the road. ?? I've never had an ACT clutch, but i have heard lots of good things about them and will more then likely try one when the need arises. -Austin

YOU HAVE TO HAVE IT OPEN TO THE ATMOSPHERE. you just cant do it any other way. NOTHING beats the whooooosh noise and the "what was that????" from passengers. You guys are talking about reponse here. And im sorry but i really have never seen a BOV on a race car that is recirculating. And if it was that much better they would have a recirc one. Id say that if you're running the stock EMS then recirc is the way to go to prevent richness, but I really cant see how recirc could possibly be better. Hot air before the turbo seems bad to me. Also is you have a BOV which is open during cruising, isnt that just a big leak since it is going back in before the turbo. Seems like it would take longer to spool. Just me I really dunno... lemme find my corky book.. I'll be back -Austin

exact same thing happened to me, except it was a little more, took my finger off all the way to the end of my finger nail. Not by a turbo though, by a bike chain. Takes FOREVER to heal. Took like 10 weeks till i could go around without it wrapped up if i remember correctly! -Austin

Well i got the mapp sensor today, i gotta give it to the SDS guys they are fast! I ordered it yesterday when i got home from school ~3:00 and it was here when i got home today. woohooo, aight sounds like 18 psi is good then, well see what the air fuel ratio does on the dyno nere in a week or so! On the injectors, i bought mine off ebay there were plenty when i looked. You just kinda take a gamble on if they are good. Mine were fine. i bought 4 used ones and 2 that had been professionally redone. Total was less then 100 bucks. -Austin

Ok, Im getting really bad gas milage so im getting my car back on the dyno to do some more tuning. I figured while i was there might as well get my boost controller setup, and raise the boost of course. My 3bar MAPP sensor should be coming in this week, soo..... I will be able to raise my boost above 15psi. I was thinking about running 16-18PSI. How much is too much? Right now im running 370cc SVO injectors and I would like to max those out. Ive heard they supply enough fuel for ~320hp at 80% duty cycle. I am still running the stock internals. Whatddya think 18PSI????? -Austin

Everything you have there will swap into the 240z. You will have to have a custom driveshaft made to fit the t5 tranny though. 9.0:1 compression seems pretty high for a high boost engine. You may want to check into getting some new pistons. Corse they are forged so you might be fine. Just make sure you invest in a very efficient intercooler. The factory manifold will support 450+ HP. There are some guys with customs ones but i think that you will find hte factory log is good, and getting it extrude honed will be plenty if you want more. You will need to consider some type of engine managment if you are planning on reaching those 450 hp goals. Im running SDS. I would look around at electromotive, haltech, motec, etc. Like Phantom said, there is alot of info here, jsut use hte search function and you will more then likely answer your questions. -Austin

god that is sexy!!! Makes me feel small -Austin

Hey Tdab. I know what car your talking about. Its in the auto trader. i called the guy and it sounded like a sweet buy. I wanted to buy it but the only thing i want is the long block and the tranny. So i couldnt justify the 2800.... Anyhow, did you notice that there is also one in there for 800 bucks?? I havent called the guy yet but i was gonna check it out tomarrow. -Austin

6 psi fast you will be hit with the evil boost bug soon enough just you wait, ill give you a week and youll want 12... 18.....20.....

Hey, Im finishing up my junior year in Highschool and I'm starting to look around at colleges to apply to next year. I live in NC so ive mainly been looking at colleges in the south. My two best picks so far at NC state and Clemson. I just visited Clemson today and was very impressed. I plan to major in Mechanical Engineering with an emphisis on Automotive engineering. Clemson has just started an automotive program with BMW, Michelin, and IBM for research and development and will be offering grad degrees in Automotive engineering. They also have good motorsports clubs such as the Clemson Sport Car Club and the Formula team. Anyhow those were some things that interested me about the school. I wanted to hear what your guys opinions are on schools, places you went..... etc. -Austin

Im running a felpro headgasket, im on my second one. Havent had any trouble out of it. I was running 14psi with bad tuning my first go around. The #1 piston ringlands went out before the headgasket. So when i broke the engine down i went with another felpro. Well see if it can take 18 psi pretty soon, i dont have any doubts, well....i am an optimistic person. Im also running stock headbolts. I havent heard anything bad about them. 33 bucks? Eh its up to you. I'd say the money is better put towards studs. Course theres always HKS.... -Austin

I was racing my buddy in his Integra. Wasnt really a race but i kept goin. My speedo jumps around alot on the interstate, it was jumping between 130 and 150. So i guess somewhere abouts the 140ish mark. I was in 4th and still pulling hard. i just got a bit scared on the concrete interstate. They do get light up there

distributor bastaad525 -- A note on the i/c pipes, you should be able to do it relativly cheap i did mine like your hoping to do with mandrel exhaust tubing. I have a total of 3 welds in my plumbing. Its just a pain to get it all to aligned just right. Someday i hope to go to a set of nice aluminum pipes, but that will have to wait till college or somthing when i can get some time on a tig. I made my wastegate mount with a piece of sheet metal from home depot. Total cost about 5 bucks. I mocked it up with a piece of aluminum flashing which was easy to bend and cut with sissors. Then i took to it with the steel. i put a lil snibit about it on the bottom of my turbo install page http://www.geocities.com/datsun260zt/t3t4

Looks awesome, id love to see some more of the whole car. Question for you on the stock headgasket... you mentioned that the stock one gives out at 15psi. Is that running the 8.8:1 compression ratio? Im running a felpro headgasket and was hoping to run 18psi with my setup. I am running the stock 7.8:1 CR though. -Austin