240hoke

Im using that MSD unit, so far so good. comes with nice mounting brackets too

you can reuse feltpro ones. They are like 12 bucks from advance. They are rubber and metal. Ive had mine off about 12 times and it doesnt leak at all. i couldnt keep my cork one from leaking the orginal time i put it on! -Austin

hey guys, My fuel pressure gauge recently starting showing somthing strange. Usually it gives a dead solid reading. Now the needle will vibrate. It reads right around the number where it is supposed to be but quivers there. This all seemed to happen after i blew the fuel pump fuse (was due to the wrong fuse, not excessive current draw). At anyrate do you you guys know what might be causing this? It is an auto meter 0-100 psi fuel gauge with an autometer high pressure isolator. -Austin Hoke

I noticed that blue smoke will start to come outta the tailpipe after sitting in traffic for a period. I noticed it alot this morning sitting in school traffic, about 15 min of idling and barely pulling foward. Also at the dragstrip after runs it would smoke periodically. And furthermore i noticed it when i was sitting in the drive tuning on the car. When i pulled in no smoke, but after about 5 min i got back in to rev it a bit and its starting smoking. It doesnt smoke anytime other than after sitting at idle for a period it seems, nothing while driving, allittle black on acceleration sometimes but that just my mixture. Any idea's.. turbo bearing maybe? -Austin Hoke

on the timing chain thing. i would suggest a Nissan chain tensioner tool. Sure its expensive (for a piece of plastic) but it fits in there exactly and is easy to get in and out. One part that is definitly worht it. -Austin

just wanted to mention, that a stainless downpipe is generally used in a trubo application because it will last a LOT longer when exposed to the extreme heat epirienced by the downpipe. It would be becasue of this that you would want stainless, not because the car sees alot of moisture. Now i dont know much about steel ect ect, so somebody correct me if im wrong here. -Austin

hey, Actually i havent solved the problem or made any progress at all. i love excuses to buy performance parts so... I replaced the cam last weekend with a new cam from delta (260 dur / 440 lift). In doing so i also put in new rocker arms and lash pads. Noticed a smoother power band but no change in being able to rev past 5000 rpms. I also checked and double checked the cam timing while i had it apart. Springs are my next thing to check, I had them replaced when i had the engine rebuilt. But im going by the machine shop at the begining of next week to ask him about them. Keep te help coming, I need it! -Austin Hoke

hey, i posted this just a bit ago in the 6 cylinder tech forum but i didnt know how much traffic they get so im posting here. I just got my new cam and rockers put in today, went realitivly easy enough. But at any rate with the higher lift i need to change my lash pads. Curious about what size some of you guys were running so i dont have to guess a much when i buy them. The cam is a 260 dur 440 lift. -Austin

Hey guys, I just put a 260 dur 440 lift cam in my l28et. I know the lash pads are off with the bigger lift. I was curious to know what size you guys are running for this type cam. -Austin

The springs are brand new, i replaced them when i had the head rebuilt. however we did use the stock cam and rocker arms. The cam and rocker arms are the sketchy part. i wouldnt be surprised at all if the cam is wiped out. The guy that rebuilt my head threw all and rocker arms literally in a bag, so i had to just put them back on not knowing where they came from. in addition, the cam does have some groves and wear marks in it. I think the valve train could possibly be it since ive checked just about everything else out. How can i check for wiped cam lobes? Ive got a buddy with a brand new turbo cam and rockers. You guys think this might be the new step for me to try? Thanks for the help -Austin

Ok Drax, i checked the intake manifold just for kicks. no rags to be found. However i did find another problem, my TB wasnt opening all the way , adjusted the throttle pushrod and it was good to go. This should make some differnce as far as a WOT, but it didnt change "the problem" I tried running the car with everything turned off but the EMS. only the fuel pumps and the engine managment system had power. Nothing changed, so i think we can rule out interference. I was listening to the engine while reving it this afternoon and noticed the valvetrain makes a distinctly different noise right around 4500-5000 rpms. A kind of static like noise. Could it be possily my cam or something in the valvetrain could be causing this. -Austin

My hall sensor braket is 1/4 steel, mounted to the timing cover, cant budge it at all even with a hammer. i even sent pics of it to SDS for their approval. Im going to post some pics of my setup and wiring on my webpage, i'll have a link: PICS the rag is one thing i havent check for, lol but seriously this thing is really buggin me and it's exhausted my limited automotive knowledge so im hoping you guys can help me. -Austin Hoke http://www.geocities.com/datsun260zt

anybody got some more ideas?

Right now i have my pump wired directly to the battery through a toggle switch. Im using 12 gauge i believe. i just did this temporaily to be sure it was getting full juice. I can also hook it up into the fuse block i made which is on a relay. The pump is an MSD unit, Pn2225. I called MSD and talked with them about the pump, they told me that it was more than enough for my app and it was anything but the pump. But who knows... here's a link to it: http://www.msdignition.com/fuel_8.htm "High Pressure Electric Fuel Pump Multiport EFI systems require a stable fuel supply to maintain best performance throughout the engine’s rpm range. This high pressure and high flow Fuel Pump features a roller vane pump mechanism which is extremely resistant to clogging and jamming. The pump mounts in-line (out of the fuel tank) with two supplied cushioned clamps for a quick and sturdy installation. The nipple inlet is 3/8†with a 5/16†outlet. The wire terminals feature brass studs for secure connections. Made in the USA, the pump is ideal for use as a “booster†for nitrous oxide applications, or as a stand alone pump for multiport EFI systems on engines up to approximately 500 HP. Capable of 43 gph at 40 psi/162l/h. High Pressure Electric Fuel Pump PN 2225" -Austin

ok - - 36 psi base 50 psi @ 14 psi boost I know this is a bit low for the 370cc injectors, but it is dead on for the stock FPR.

please lemme know what info i can supply, i'll do my best to fill in the details. i already have an FP gauge mounted in the car with a sender unit in the engine compartment. it rises a steady 1:1 under boost and doesnt change at 4500 rpms's. im going out for a ride right now to help a buddy on his z, ill get a maximun FP reading when im out. -Austin

yes i have redone the fuel/rpm map to reflect the larger injector size. I have noticed that sometimes when reving it in neutral a puff of whitish smoke will come out at this spot. I have not tried an aftermarket tach mainly becuase i dont have acces to one, id have to buy one. but it is sumthin i would like to try SDS does have a rev limiting feature, i have it set to "no limit". A far as the interference thing goes, It is what it sounds likes to me too. however I just cant find where it's coming from and in addition The gauge mode displaying ign. is supposed to read "err" if there is ever interference and it wont disappear untill the ecu is turned off. Could there be any mechanical reason for the engine to do this? Thanks for the help so far guys -Austin

I have adjusted a readjusted the valves to make sure they are correct. As far as the hall sensor is concerned, it is triggered by magnets in the pulley. Im not to hot on electronics, but SDS calls it a hall sensor. i have checked all my magnets about 5 times, i even replaced all the magnets so there would be no doubt, then as mentioned before i tried adjusting the sensor clearence. Im not sure as far as how the sensor is wired, please lemme know how i can check and i will do so. There is only on way to plug it into the ecu and all the wiring was done by racetech (sds) but i guees there could be a possiblity of them wiring it backwards. There are two electric fans mounted on the radiator, the problem exists wheather they are on or off. The hall sensor is located on the opposite side of the engine and the signal wires run around the other side of the engine, they come closest to any alternator wiring where they enter the firewall on the passenger's side where the a/c line used to exist. i have no a/c. So the only place i figure any interference could come from is the alternator/charging system. I have tried to keep my wires as far away for them as possible. oh on the fuel pressure that is with the vac hooked up. i believe it reads 35 with the vac line unhooked. I am useing a stock turbo FPR. I had the same problem when i was using the stock turbo injectors. But in an effort to make sure the fuel system was working properly i went ahead and replaced the injectors. -Austin

I've had the same problem with my engine from the first day i cranked it, and i have been trying to figure it out since then. I have posted threads about it before and got lots of advice but nothing has worked or changed it in the least bit. It's been 9 months and i'm ready to figure it out! So.. Quick info aout my car before i start ranting on my issues. 74 260z l28et sds em4-6f npr i/c t3 3" exhaust 370cc injectors ZCC fuel rail n42 intake 240sx tb Basically I cant rev over 4500/5000 rpms. This is both while underload or just reving the engine. Several things happen whenever i reach this point, the engine makes "sputtering/strange" noises and refuses to rev any farther, and at the same instant the tach needle goes off the wall, fliping back and forth until I let off the gas. Things I have already done: - Checked all my maps/values and made improvements via scottieGNZ's suggestions - Checked my coilpacks for spark via SDS maual - Checked Spark Plug wires and tried differnt types, along with spark plugs -Checked plug gap and narrowed it to .035 - Checked Fuel Pump, fuel reg, injectors, and fuel pressure (28 at idle) - Checked all grounds - Checked magnets and hall sensor alignment, i have tried moveing the hall sensor closer and farther away - Checked knock sensor/turned knock sense and knock retard off in the computer I found very little that was wrong and what was off i fixed, nothing however changed "the problem" (as i refer to it). I really want ot get this problem fixed so any help is greatly appriciated! Thanks, -Austin hoke

well i am using the stock FPR with a straight rail and i think it turned out fine. Im running the fuel into the back of the fuel rail(firewall) then I have the regulator mounted on the front of the engine on a stud coming out of hte head (which i think was used to mount hte old fuel rail). All it took was a little modifing of the mounting bracket. -Austin HoKe

humm......maybe pushrod adjustment?

i had a similar situation when i first started up my l28et engine. But the problem i had was the magnets were in backwards. Thats SDS though and i have no idea about hte factory stuff, but i would definitly check the hall sensor and its aligment. I heard a good many stories about the hall sensors going out.

Hey guys thanks for the comments. I still havent had a chance to try them out because i was outta town, hopefully monday i will be able to finish plumbing in my proprtioning vavles and my line-lock. as for the money. i got a really good price on them because the guy i bought them from was updating to corvete C5 brakes on his turboZ (13in). I know he mentioned the hubs were $1,000. The calipers are stock 87 vette's with swain coating's and Performance friction pads, the rear rotors are stock 280zx but lightened. I am also using 2 willwood proportioning valves one for the front and one for the rear so i can rid the car of the stock datsun unions and proportioning vavles. Also for the parking brake im using a moroso line lock. I will do a write up hopefully on the proportioning valves because so many guys are going to rear discs. -Austin

Hey guys, almost done with my brake swap, all i got left is some brake line work. Here's some pics: http://www.geocities.com/datsun260zt/pics.html Specs: vette calipers billit hubs SFZ/280zx rotors performance friction pads Swain coating custom mounting brackets weight wise i cut 20 lbs off the front brakes and who knows how much off the rear. This setup wasn't desgined by me i bought it from Al moore and am mouting it one my car. Lemme know what you guys think. i haven't felt the stopping power yet because im not finished with all the lines..... but i have confidence ; )

i went with the dunlop FM901, 225/50/r16 V all round. I love them, they make the car handle so much better, helped reduce some understeer. i also love the agressive directional tread. i did have a problem with the tires rubbing in the rear and had to do some serious fender lip rolling, I still have one rubbing sometimes under really hard cornering. But so far I like em. Well see how long they last.