Datsun260Z

Hey guys, has anyone here ever converted a old dishwasher into a shop partswasher? I would be interested in knowing how you got it to work without having the inlet connected. Thank you. t

I wonder what the price one of these is? Have you inquired if they're available for the L series ?? T

Looks great! Cheers to all the staff who made this such a smooth transition.

Howdy gang. Hope everyone is having a nice Monday. Has anyone here ever used vg30 springs in an L series head? I've not yet match the springs diameter however the info I have found so far tells me that teh vg30 outside spring is 048" longer (2.016) then the stock L series spring (1.968). The inside spring on the vg30 is .030" shorter at 1.736". The L series being 1.766. My big concern is the length of the outside spring, could .048 be too much for the valve? Could this create enough closing force to drop a valve? 48 thou isn't huge by any means but it's all relative to the topic. To give an idea of size difference we're talking the gap in the average spark plug. So, would it make any difference to the durability of the valve head and stem? I should also know the installed height of both however I wanted to present this question here since so many before me have built many an L series engine and I thought one of you may have done something like this previously. Thanks to all who can help. T

Hi guys. I am starting to pick up the pace of my 260 build and thought it would be great to open a discussion to all of you resident L series engine builders with experience. This thread's aim is to be a resource for those to come. I've attempted to find detailed info on this subject and have had little luck. I have a set of chrome rings that I got this past winter and have been on the hunt for some insight into what grit of hone stones I should use. I just found this interesting article and thought I would share it in hopes I invoke further input from you guys. http://www.enginebuildermag.com/Article/2520/_piston_rings_and_surface_finish.aspx So, if anyone has anything to share I think the rest of us would widely appreciate it. T

Have you searched this website? I highly recommend you do. T

hmmm, 260, no fire. On my first 260 (about 15 years ago) I had a phantom stalling problem. Every now and then, out of no where the car would die. All and everything checked out, except spark. Turned out the factory "ignition box" was faulty. As I've heard over the years from others these boxes were common for gremlins. Seems I wasn't alone. Now, today I have a 260 again which I am nearing the end of my resto on however somewhere along the way of it's life someone cut it out, which I have no complaints about. I personally have not dealt with the bypassing of this box nor have I removed it however it's (as memory serves) installed under the dash on the passenger side above the fuse box. I wouldn't be surprised is searching this site will reveal much detail about this however I would start with the manual otherwise. Best of luck, I hope this clue leads you somewhere positive. T

Well I was going to post in a thread I recall starting some time ago with regards to my 260Z build and saw out the corner of my eye that we have blogs! And I thought, "well, what a better way for those who might be interested in me and my build to get to know what I am up to!" So, I wont drag on tonight too much but I will share some serious frustrations I've been having of late with the Z. I am sure most all of you can relate to general the general frustrations that rear their ugly head along the road to a built car but this one is just too ironic. In the beginning when I bought this car back in 98 I was working on the road, in a bad relationship, young(er ) and broke. The dream of building this car sat in my brothers drive way for more than a few years while I traveled from one end of Canada to the other trying to make ends meet. A few years later I moved back home with my wife to be (new relationship), bought a house, worked for a while in the Transport industry and then decided to go back to school and become a Machinist. Now today I am working steady, my wife and I have plans to build a house and I have managed to stock pile a little cash to finish the Z to modest results.....And wouldn't you know it but MAN is it hard to get some parts suppliers to cooperate. For WEEKS, more than a month I've been waiting for a Energy Suspension bushing kit to come in....only to be lied to and lied to by the local parts supplier I chose to order through. Of course their price was right, so....like anyone else, I bit. Trouble is, once again they haven't met their own set deadline! It's just been an endless pile of nonsense with this particular dealer

Hey buddy, I don't think you are doing half bad at all, keep up the good effort and just watch how soon these doubts you have are a thing of the past. Looks like your on the right track for a beginner.

Have you tried simply running beads on the 1/8 plate until your confidence returns. Also. Butt welding can be tough when you don't have a feel for the welding you're trying to learn, no matter the type whether it's oxy, MIG or TIG it doesn't matter. If you don't have a feel for your settings and the welder itself you wont weld no how. If I were you I'd start running beads until I was blue in the face sick of it. The air gap between the two plates can also cause trouble when your learning a Butt weld. Again, keep up with the beads on scrap plate metal and then attempt to join pieces. I work in Aerospace and the welder I work next to daily has shown me a little with regards to TIG and it's interesting stuff. Knowing a little about what you're welding material wise helps too. You can't arm yourself with enough knowledge where the metals you're working with are concerned. My co-worker is an excellent aerospace welder and I trust the little lessons he's given me. I mean they're ex-raying his welds regularly so I do trust that he's on the ball with his opinions of what is what. And his advice to me was to run beads until I knew how to do that first. And interestingly enough, it's made me a better welder with my little homeshop buzz box! When I was starting out back in the day turning wrenches I asked the Journeyman I was working under what made a good mechanic? He told me that good mechanics are those who never give up on the job they've been given to repair. In the beginning that was good advice and I think it applies to all trades. If you really want to weld and be great at it, you will. Just don't give up buddy and all of a sudden, in the very near future, you'll turn a corner and bam! You'll have it! Take care T

Just wanted to jump in and say thanks. Unfortunately, I rarely post as I find the search button to be my best friend as I almost ALWAYS get the answers I need. I am currently stock piling parts to complete my 260, I had my parts guy source struts (KYB's) and he asked me if my 260 was early or late. I needed this answer in a bad way and vwalla! Point is, I think this thread is actually pretty important to the whole suspension of the Z cars and perhaps a sticky would be helpful and some of our veteran Z builders could possibly add to this already informative thread....? Just an idea and didn't mean to hijack the topic, thanks again to the entire Hybrid community for such an outstanding forum. Sticky sticky! lol T

Well, I am immediately cautious that's for sure. I would be especially interested in whether or not "beadbalsting" will remove the parent material. Piston crowns are obviously very crucial and have an Engineered thickness that I would not compromise. If you thin the crown you open the door for material to reach its melting point faster. However, that said I go back to my initial question: Does it remove parent material? If so, I'd let you friend blast all the pistons he wants and hide yours from him. Furthermore, I cannot see how this will reduce any future deposits. IF you used a coarse enough of a media you would actually be giving future deposits more "tooth" to grab onto. Not less. Sure, cleaning them off would be a breeze but I don't see the problem with soaking my piston crowns in carb cleaner (or similar) and utilizing a near by scotch bright pad. Just my pennies worth And why are you yelling? Caps lock means yelling.

Very sad. My best to his friends and family. I liked the show, moreso that a show about car building was on the air. He and Duane's spats I could always live without. Regardless, Boyd paved the way for many many people including Foose and James. Not to mention the countless other auto resto shows out there now. Boyd Coddington and his creations might very well go down as a part of American history and pop culture. His life will forever ride on with every one of his creations out there today. An honorable way to be remembered IMHO, God bless you Boyd - now get to work, Jesus needs a hotrod! RIP t

Hey thanks for the thoughts and advice. I am really not doing much more than cleaning things up. I decked the head and that is pretty much what I am going to do. However, less then a 100 bucks...then I think I can make that happen. I thought there were much more than that. Thanks again man, have a good one. T

Evenin' Z friends.... so today was a pretty special day. As I shared in another thread my Z has been a long time coming as a project. As of late I have been learning Machining and have had the opportunity to perform some of the machine work to my L28 with an N42 head. Here's where I am at with my question. I began some preliminary inspections of all the head components - after I finished milling the head my primary focus was the springs. I only measured a few before I stopped. Seems they are 1 MM shorter than what the spec is on them in my manual. I guess what I want to know is, would you change them - or, would you be more inclined to simply make sure they're all equal. Here's where I am at with this motor; some info that might help you help me. I am not building the craziest outlandish motor here. What I am doing is simply cleaning things up. I want a tight motor that runs WELL. I am not looking to race, nor do I want or really care about HP at this time. My budget is tight, I am changing careers and we're having a baby. I enjoy the Z, I do everything myself - for the love of it and that it's really the only way I can have these things at this point. I am sure most of you can relate. Bottom line is, this isn't the last engine I bolt together, I assure you of that and frankly I'd much rather put time and effort and small amounts of investment into a first build...and learn something more about building engines before I get insane and build a stroker or whatever. I think you get the picture. So - would you change these springs....and if you would...what kind of money should someone expect to put out for a set? Thanks for everything, much appreciated as always. tim

Nice repair Sven! But cold in New Mexico...now that I have a hard time believing...:-) Tonight, where I live....a lovely -37 C they're predicting... when we have a break down - terrible things happen. And on a related note, the Z I have I bought in Vancouver in the winter of 98 - drove it home to Winnipeg (which would be something like going from LA to perhaps Kansas City...?? distance wise. Anyway. She was losing coolant the whole way and I hit some seriously cold weather....it was terrible. I BS you not, I was wearing if memory serves, long johns, jeans, sweats and I think I had a pair of large pants over that.... the car was in bad shape, just low to no rust. Anyway, no heat on the coast is one thing, a -30 cold snap on the prairies...another story all together. And no insulation under the carpet with a small hole in the floor pan by the pedals. Just terrible. But I made the 2300 KM trip....at one point I new I had to keep moving down the highway or else....easily one of the stupidest things I've ever done.... All in the name of Z I guess. On a happy note, today - yes - TODAY - 9 years later...I milled the head. I am in school (Aerospace training) where I am focusing my efforts on becoming a Machinist.....my instructor has taken a liking to my love affair with the Z and supports my use of the class and the shop for my engine work on my off days....couldn't have been happier I tell ya - today was a landmark day for me and the Z!. Great job - great story! Tim

Hey man, thanks a lot! Great plans. And I didn't know about the Summit box. I asked as I have a ton of "stuff" - electronic components that is. So, if a plan is out there I thought what the heck. I am the type to attempt something like this when time allows and since the parts list is what I somewhat expected I wouldn't be too surprised if I have all the necessary stuff in my shop...it'll take some diggin is all. I need to do a little more research to be sure that this will be safe to operate with electronic ignition. Thanks again man. And if anyone else has anything like this I'd love to see it! T PS, man I love this site.

Has anyone here built there own MSD esq ignition box and or have access to a schematic? Thank you Tim

Update: I just received in the mail my 'how to modify your Datsun L series" - WOW what a book! :mparty:My questions are answered. Thanks anywho... T

Hi guys, great thread. Very interesting. I have currently torn down my N42. I am an apprentice Machinist and before I mill this head (will be bolted to a L28 block, dished.) I am concerned about how much I can cut off this head. I have read on this site some have taken 060 thou! What is my safe amount? I am concerned about what I've read here with regards to shimming the cam....I don't want to get into this. I am merely cleaning things up. I am not going to overkill here with respect to the ports. I might "tidy" things up. However what I don't want to do is open up the ports so wide the valves can't possibly move the air anyway. Essentially, the stock cam is going back. I want a ride that is smooth and tight. I am not chasing HP at this point. One day I will build something really special for my 260 but for today....decking and as mentioned above is my goal. So, in short, if I cut 30 to 40 thou am I going to cause more grief then I need. Thank you to all. tim

wow, sounds like an unnecessary pain in the rear, pardon the pun. What if I went with the 280zx rears mounted on opposite sides...? Would that help simplify things? Again, if people have a blue print I would greatly appreciate it. However, starting to look like I am on my own here and will be drawing my own...oh well, worth a try. t

Well I was thinking () I would like to run the Toyota 4X4 4 piston. Currently I have the stock however the car is on stands and about 80% along the way to paint etc. So it's no big whoop really. Why does it matter what I am running up front anyway and forgive me if the answer is obvious, I just finished drywalling upstairs; a job straight from hell in this case. :mrgreen: Exhaustion is my middle name... T

I was considering the 240sx caliper however, if you've got a better suggestion I am all ears. Basically I am planning this part of the conversion and it seems the mounting bracket is the main fabrication so I figured I would deal with it first. As I understand it there are a multitude of calipers that can be used?? Am I on the right track to be thinking 240SX? Thanks a lot for you reply! T

Hello everyone. I just did a short search and came up with nothing, I am looking for blueprints for the rear caliper mounting bracket. If anyone has Machined these themselves and is willing to share, I'd be forever grateful. If not, I guess it's me and my Vernier :mrgreen: - I will of course still measure things up I am just curious to see what's available. Thanks to everyone... Tim

Excellent links man, thanks! I took a quick look through an am pleasantly surprised, the prices are really not all that bad. I can live with 50 to 80 bucks plus fabrication for the install. This info in this thread is pretty great, I really appreciate it. Tim