darkstarrocker

If I remember right, the 81 had a silver Z on the hood. My 82 turbo had and has all gold emblems including the hood. May have been an appearance package.

Drain all the coolant into a clean container, replace the valve and any hoses you want to, and the pour the coolant back in.

That's crazy! I never would have thought... I can compress the tensioner on my G60 by hand. The G-Lader must require less tension. But, now I think about it, I did need a special tool for my MINI, that was an Eaton M45. The special tool was a 3' bar to compress the tensioner... Never though about the forces at work until now. Previous statement redacted!

I like Honda's MTF. You'll only get around 30k miles before it starts to break down and get notchy though. You guys do know an 75w90 gear oil is very similar viscosity wise, to a 10w40 engine oil? The ad pack is the primary concern.

I'm still not sure why you have to run so much tension... is it a function of your serp belt setup? I know the tensions aren't as high on OEM applications, even with increased boost. EDIT: I don't know as much as I think and I still get schooled.

You can run a CS130 alternator as a 1 wire. If you get one for a Dodge Monaco it'll bolt in with the factory brackets. I think the thread is still on the front of the ignition/electrical subforum

I AM right, because I've done it myself. His exact same situation, except I took my Corrado over to Germany. Soldiers take their cars into and out of Germany every day. I helped people with their inspections all the time. I helped my soldiers export their vehicles as part of outprocessing all the time. It's 100% military, including bringing a euro spec vehicle back to the states with you, providing it's 25 years old or older. I brought back a German Rabbit Convertible with my Corrado's engine in it. So I have personally: -Taken a us spec vehicle into Germany. -Swapped that engine into a euro - spec car, got it to pass military inspection, AND had it TÃœV'd. -Brought that modified euro - spec car back to the states and got it titled with NCDMV. OP, take the Z, you'll be fine, even with mods. You can bring it back with you no problem, but you may sell it when you find out how much money you could potentially sell it for - pm me of you want to know how the Zollamt works. Buy a $500-1000 daily beater when you get there for a dd. You'll be glad you did.

WRONG. He's with the military, he'll have ZERO issues bringing his car back. Been there, done that.

You definitely need horn and turn signals. You need a title to ship, but to register in the USAREUR system you normally just need a notarized bill of sale. Comes in really hand when daily beaters are 12-13 owner cars! Mods are fine in the USAREUR system, but Polezei stopped my all the time for my S2000's exhaust. They USAREUR registration normally gets you off the hook. With some work, you could probably have the car TUV'd as well. For the exhaust, I'd get a removable muffler section made and just swap it out for inspection time. I'd also use a false cat just to be on the safe side.

For shipping, it needs to run and drive and not leak fluids. If you have a battery kill or anything special, include instructions for starting. For US military inspections, the big gigs are: Leaking exhaust Fluid leaks Sh!t brakes. Need to have even brake torque side to side Working ebrake Cracked light lenses Cracked glass Ball joints, bushings, tierods with excessive play If your car is TRULY in ROADWORTHY condition, you're fine. If anything I listed is wrong, fix it beforehand. While you're there, rockauto is going to be your best friend. Consider selling while you're there. I bought a sh!t n/a '80 ZX from a soldier for $400, got it to pass TUV, and sold it for 3000 euros. Can't beat that with a stick.

I think if you can redesign the tensioner so the pulley sits closer to the charger pulley, and adjusts straight up and down or with an angle towards the charger pulley, you'll have less issues with slip. Please excuse the crude paint drawing: untitled.bmp

Are you getting any belt slip? I've had issues in my VW with a smaller charger and more belt wrap.

Most of the M cars from that era were running ITBs... Wait, I see your point. For $50 bucks though, if you have the time and money, why not?

It's either disconnect it, or find a working level sensor.

I submit my Brown Meanie: