BQR280Z

According to Drag 2000 software a 240Z has a frontal area of 17 square feet and a coefficient of drag of .29 Bill 8)

I have built several big block Fords and you will certianly have plenty of torque, but just remember the BBF are NO rev'ers so run your gearing accordingly. The weight of a 428 and a C6 trans are going to load the Z chasis hard to the front, do everything possible to remove front weight. Battery relocation, light weight front bumper. The stock R200 in 3.54 or taller gearing should hold up, so long as you use traction as your relief valve. There are many excellent tires out there these days, so tire it so you can break it loose at will, result instant chasis unloading. Strut brace it to death, and hang on tight. Bill

I have a 94 SHO that took a deer, if someone else wants a donor car for a swap. Bill

Jeg's sells a great adjustable temp sensor for $24.99 made by Flex-a-lite. Both starting and shut-off temps are adjustable. I have one on my Z, works perfect. Bill

Can one of you Z experts tell me if a 5-speed from a 85 300ZX will bolt to a L28 motor??? I just picked up an 85 300ZX for a parter and if the trans will fit my 76 280, I'll keep it. Thanks Bill

I'm running 2 fans one on each side of the radiator. The puller is from a Ford Super Coupe T-bird (cut apart from the pair) 7 blade and hooked to a Flex-a-lite adjustable sensor, for full automatic operation. This one fits down in the lower left part of the radiator, under the distributor. It is a long shaft motor. The other is from a Ford Taurus, pancake motor, and mounted in front as a pusher, and wired to a switch on the dash. I have a yellow indicator light to let me know when the auto one comes online, then I just keep an eye on the temp in traffic and if it starts to climb, click on the aux fan. Bill

Tomahawk: Your project sounds like its is coming along nicely. I just got some new headlights from "H4lights" - super lights, with Euro style "city lights" in the reflector also. My car is yellow so I painted the city light bulbs yellow - looks good with yellow headlights.

Took the Z down the road for the first time with the new motor/trans combo. The trans is a 5-speed from a 83ZX - ratios seem good, but the trans jumps out of reverse. Anyone know whats up?? If I hold it firmly in reverse, I can feel something every revolution of the gears. Broken gear? or bad bearing?? Is the trans worth rebuilding or is just finding another the way to go?? Thanks for your help. Bill

I recently cowled my stock steel hood and I think it came out pretty well. Since the under hood reinforcement on a Z is all on the perimeter, the center is free to move where you want it. I measured 4" down each side and 4" across the back and then sliced it open down to about 2-3" from the front edge. Now the "cowl" flap can be put where ever you want it. I welded 1/8 rod along both openings and then used 3/16" rod for lift supports. 2" at the back, forced 2" supports 16" forward, then just let the hood flow back. The nice thing is the lines stay Datsun. You will need a little bondo to fill the slight dimples at the front, from raising rear, but all in all it looks nasty. I will email a pix of mine. Bill

There was also a conversion kit available for 780 vac secondary carbs, Y-shaped secondary squirter and a gear drive setup for the throttle shafts. Actually became one HUGE one barrel, had one on a 68 Roadrunner, after tuning throttle response was awesome. Bill

Don't bother, the FE Fords were far better truck engines than performance engines. They have great torque but just don't rev. I have a 406 in a 67 Mustang GT, made awesome tire smoke, but any solid running SBC or Mopar would beat it. The weight factor is also a negative in the Z. Build a 351W and have power and handling. Bill

My Z is almost ready for paint. 76-280 with custom bumpers, air dam, rocker ground effects and a custom built whale-tail (made from an Escort GT spoiler) and a custom cowled hood for intake clearance. She's going to be Viper Racing Yellow with White stripes. I do my own painting, I think it's going to look reeeal good. Bill

I am building a 76 280 with a Holley 4bbl. I needed hood clearance for the carb, since I added a 1" insulator block and a 1/2" NOS plate. Since the under hood supports on a Z are all peripheral, I cut the hood 4" from each side and 4" across the back. Then welded 1/8" rod around the openings and raised the hood 2" at the rear edge, and forward 16" from the back edge. Basically creating a cowl hood. I welded in diamond grating, to keep the punks from messing with my motor. It looks nasty, not on the road yet, but soon. Maybe some blue neon lights in the engine bay, just to keep my motor company. Bill