BQR280Z

Thought I would throw this out and see if fellow Z'ers could help. I just installed a new Mallory HyFire VI ignition and love it, incredible adjustability. For the dual stage rev limiter, I need to apply 12V to a circuit for launch RPM and need a switch that I can comfortably hold while in 1st gear. I have an old school Hurst T handle with a switch in the end but am not all that fond of the look. Any ideas or suggestions??? Maybe a lineloc switch but our Z's don't really have the right bend in the shifter for those to really right either. Thanks for your help. Bill

I thought I would give my 2 cents worth. I recently palced two orders with MSA and must say I was happily impressed. I placed both orders on the internet so I didn't talk with anyone, so I couldn't be insulted. I recieved thank you emails and also a phone call to see if I would like to add a gasket I forgot about. Both orders were shipped promptly and were complete. Although I didn't get a new catalog. Bill

I tore down the Z on Sunday and found my NOS damage. After the last NOS run last season, I figured I burned an exhaust valve (badly). Compression in #3 was 55, compared to 180 in the rest, and the hiss was all through the tailpipe. #3 exhaust valve is gone, a section about 3/8" wide and 1/4" deep is gone from the seat face. The seat in the head is hurt too. New head is almost ready, ported, new 290/495 cam, hi-po springs. Bill

I'm from Wisconsin and have 2 house cats. But I say lets clean them out. There are cats killing lots of game out there. .22 mag at 150 yards would be sporting, don't you think. Bill

I have one from a 80 - 280ZX. $55 shipped Bill

According to the note, it will be in the letters section. I had sent some pictures and a write up of the work I did. There is a Hybrid Z sticker on the inside of the hood, but they probably didn't use that shot. Bill

I got home from work yesterday and had a package from Sport Compact Car Magazine. It was a Skyline model, and a note that I won it and my Z would be in the May issue. Way Cool Bill

I run a themostatically controlled puller fan, and as stated by many it rarely comes on. Most of the time after the car is shut off. I have a second pusher fan wired to a dash switch, and it supplies peace of mind. If I am in stop and go traffic, I turn it on and feel better, and it is cheap insurance. Bill

BigbadZ, Stock Turbo DSM's run 450 injectors. They are usually available (used) for about $45 for a set of 4. Bill

I have a mill/drill from HF - and while it has it's limitations it is a very useable machine. If drill press is your primary concern you will have to add an extra set of pulleys to the motor and idler set to slow the arbor to the 100 RPM range for large bits. I recently bought HF's 12x36 lathe and their 21" gear head mill and am happily impressed. After looking for used big "name" lathes and mills, I decided I would rather have new and take care of it myself. I also did some wheeling/dealing on floor models they had in stock and came out VERY well. Billhttp://hybridz.org/photopost/data/519/27630073554-R1-036-16A1-thumb.jpg

Terry, I live in the country, two lane road. Where I opened it up is a 1.5 mile straight with two farm houses on it, both with long driveways, otherwise just wide open farm land. Does anyone know what happened to our photo albums???? I lost all my photo links and my album is gone. Bill

I took the Z into town on Thursday, it was a beautiful day in Wisconsin. On the way home I thought I should give the NOS one last run before the winter put away. I armed the system, checked all my interlocks, purged the NOS and took it to 4000 in 3rd, hit the button and the pull was REALLY solid. The exhaust note changed noticably, shifted at 7000 and hit the button again in 4th, pulled to 6500, 5th and on the button and OHOH. My "Baby" bobbled a bit, I got off the NOS and guess what I have a miss. I did a compression test and I hurt holes #2,3 - #2 is at 120, and #3 is at 50. Oh well I have a new cam for it, now I have some motivation to build a new very good head for it. I will post some pix of the damage when I get it apart. One thing I think must be changed is my fuel delivery, low pressure drop out switch. Currently it is mounted in a triple spigot distribution block, about 22" from the fuel solenoid. The indicator light for the switch was reading adequate pressure but I think the line was empty, so I ran in a NOS only (VERY lean condition) for a few seconds. I think the pressrue switch will be remounted directly to the fuel solenoid. Also if the system has not been used for a while, a button ON run with the NOS valve off would guarantee fuel at the fogging block. Z cars are still awesome, and I am kind of happy to have something to think about reworking. Bill

I have to agree, I have followed the USCC and come away feeling the same way. Our Z's have a uniqueness and appeal that is their's alone. We just happen to be driving the "original" sport compact car. And no matter who SCC mag says is the ultimate street machine, I would bet we could roll past with a few of our Z's and turn every head there. Z's are just cool. Bill

I took the Z into town on Thursday, it was a beautiful day in Wisconsin. On the way home I thought I should give the NOS one last run before the winter put away. I armed the system, checked all my interlocks, purged the NOS and took it to 4000 in 3rd, hit the button and the pull was REALLY solid. The exhaust note changed noticably, shifted at 7000 and hit the button again in 4th, pulled to 6500, 5th and on the button and OHOH. My "Baby" bobbled a bit, I got off the NOS and guess what I have a miss. I did a compression test and I hurt holes #2,3 - #2 is at 120, and #3 is at 50. Oh well I have a new cam for it, now I have some motivation to build a new very good head for it. I will post some pix of the damage when I get it apart. One thing I think must be changed is my fuel delivery, low pressure drop out switch. Currently it is mounted in a triple spigot distribution block, about 22" from the fuel solenoid. The indicator light for the switch was reading adequate pressure but I think the line was empty, so I ran in a NOS only (VERY lean condition) for a few seconds. I think the pressrue switch will be remounted directly to the fuel solenoid. Also if the system has not been used for a while, a button ON run with the NOS valve off would guarantee fuel at the fogging block. Z cars are still awesome, and I am kind of happy to have something to think about reworking. Bill

We just got back from a vacation in the mountains of North Carolina, and yes I missed the rain entirely. After 2600 miles of driving, I only saw one first gen Z on the road, a blue one in Mocksville, NC. A couple 79-83 Z's rotting in yards, and two 84-89 Z's on the road. I did see two 90-96 Z's, which we just don't see many of here in Wisconsin. We saw about 30 new 350Z's, 3 Vipers, a zillion Vettes. So all in all, driving a first gen Z puts us in a pretty special class. Not to mention it is a total rush. Our early Z's have an ability to span time and generations that is totally unique. It is a car that kids look at and drool, and that older ones look at and smile, because they had one, knew someone who had one or always wanted one. I have had 3 different people ask me if my Z is brand new, how many 29 year old cars can offer that, plus the benefit of being something we built ourselves. Enough dripple, but being a Z'er is still cool. Bill

I'm running a 100HP NOS kit on my 280Z w/ Holley carb. Your fuel pump will handle the extra flow, but are your lines capable of the extra volume?? In my system, I relocated the battery to the hatch, and installed a 1 gal JAZ fuel cell in the battery spot. You lift the inspection hatch to fill it, and I run 116+ racing fuel in it for the NOS system. The fuel cell has its own fuel pump, and this makes it simple to set up the fail-safe interlocks. I'm running, low fuel pressure dropout, wide-open-throttle switch, and an activation switch mounted on the console behind the shifter. That way you can never be on the button and shifting. The system is working great, best time to date is 11.67 @ 121. Bill

At one of the car shows I was at this year, a middle aged woman told me she lost her virginity in a Z. All I could think was, she must have been a lot smaller then or she was one heck of a contortionist. Bill

icesky, Which shaved handle kit did you use??? Sounds like a mod I would consider for my Z. Bill

Guy, I don't mean to be a smart ass (maybe I do) but if you just paint the Z you wouldn't have to worry about the shelf life of the paint. Bill

I just installed a new carbon fiber triple gauge pod on the dash with three SunPro temp gauges. One for engine oil, trans oil, and diff. oil. While I was installing the sensors in the trans and diff I changed the lube to fresh synthetic. The trans and diff are just information, because there really isn't much I can do about where they run. But the engine oil concerns me I have a very large oil cooler (5"x22"), inline with a dual remote filter setup. The system has an eight quart capacity. Running around town the engine oil comes up to about 175, never goes over 180 - but on the highway the temp drops to 135, and if it is a little cool like this entire summer has been here in WI it drops to 125. If anyone knows of some good links to oil temp info, please let me know. Bill

The purge did it's thing to a 600 Yamaha rider in Appleton, WI. I think it blew his concentration badly enough I toasted him BAD off the line and held him solidly to 85 MPH - 45 MPH Zone, I backed down then. I wish someone would of had a picture of his Yellow bike and my Yellow Z. Never actually let the motor drink any Nitrous, right about where I shutdown is where I would feed the giggle juice if I was going to keep going. It was a fun kill. Bill

Sounds fuel related. Check what 80LT1 said, then check your tank vent system. If the vent to atmosphere is plugged it will draw fuel only until the internal vacuum in the tank over powers your fuel pumps suction. Try running with your fuel cap loose. Just a thought. Bill