Corzette

July 15, 2003

You drive a hard bargain.....let me think about it,,,

July 15, 2003

By the way, would a larger gap make the plug hotter or colder? Whick is best....Class PlugGap101 for you college guys...

July 15, 2003

I know there are a few AFR guys here and I was wondering where to set my GAP on my plugs? I have the MSD Distributor and Blaster Coil running the AFR190 Aluminum heads. What gap would be the best to run? Mine are currently at .042. I saw it written to start at .050 to .060. Is this true since we have a bigger better spark? Adice please...ZFAN, you out there?

Corzette, the trouble maker from Asia...lol

July 15, 2003

Spiirit, lol...were way past that. The distributor lasted about a month before it went. The dist gear is made of cast iron and the cam gear is billet steel. When I pulled it out there was planty of oil on the gear itself. I am making Grumpys mod though before reinstalling. I know, one thing after another...I am in the process of ordering a new 383 short block with everything already done. Im also getting a new Tranny ...I actually need one. Maybe in about 6 months itll be done and Ill have some parts to sell! I should have done it right the first time but then theres the fact I AM IN STINKIN OKINAWA! I had to order fricken Oil Filters from the states! Just another day in the hood...will you be my friend?

Peace my Hybrid Brothers....

July 14, 2003

Race Tech article: Ne w-age Carb Spacers

A couple of years ago, I wrote a column on carburetor spacers in which I discussed how spacers worked, how they can be used to tune a given combination, and what materials are used in spacer construction. From my experience and from what most racers already know, there usually isn't much power in a spacer. Oh, you might find a horsepower or two in some cases, and you can move the power band around a bit and help distribution in other cases, but for the most part, there isn't much extra grunt available from a spacer, or is there?

Fast forward a few months to the 1999 PRI Show. Joe Petelle of HVH was manning a little piece of a booth shared with his pals from Porta-Tree. The folks in the booth handed me a one-inch-tall carb spacer with the simple words "Try it."

Joe Petelle and his son, Keith, own HVH, or High Velocity Heads. HVH may not be well known in drag racing, but it's another story in Winston Cup, where they ported heads and manifolds for Chevy and Ford teams from 1980 to 1992. In addition, HVH designed a series of intake manifolds for Brodix and created the layout for the Canfield big-block Chevrolet head. Currently, they primarily build carb spacers, but they also do limited amounts of custom work for short-track applications and drag race cars (yes, they work on NHRA Stockers, iron heads, and basically anything that flows air).

The HVH Super Sucker that I picked up at the PRI Show languished on my desk for months before it was moved to my work bench, where it languished for many more months. Finally, I slipped it into my camera bag on a trip to Speed Way Testing in Richmond, B.C.

While talking to John Heida of Speed Way Testing about his SF901 Dyno installation (a rather nice installation, by the way), I opened my camera bag and tossed the spacer to John with the simple instructions "Try it."

Heida knows his way around cylinder-head and manifold flow, and we scrutinized the Super Sucker. Sure, it was made from a very composite material, and it was a one-inch-tall version. And, yes, the top side (carburetor mount side) looked like any other four-hole spacer for a standard Holley flange. But the bottom (intake manifold side) was far different than anything we had seen before. I think independently we came up with the same assessment: It's different, but it's a carb spacer. It might be worth a horsepower or two. It's probably nothing more than a tuning aid.

Nothing more came from all this until a few days ago, when the fax machine in my office began spewing paper. Out came a couple of dyno-pull results from Speed Way Testing. The results from those tests were remarkable.

The engine in question was a relatively mild 355-cid small-block Chevy with a set of small-valve heads that Heida had reworked. If you check the engine's volumetric efficiency against the brake specific, you'll find that the engine is a pretty efficient piece. Data was corrected for 29.92 inches Hg, 60-degree F dry air. The tests were done in a conventional A-B-A format (for the sake of simplicity, I haven't included the final backup test; it matches the first test exactly). Here are the baseline test results:

rpm torque horsepower

5,000 402.8 383.5

5,100 401.8 390.2

5,200 397.3 393.4

5,300 400.6 404.3

5,400 393.7 404.8

5,500 390.0 408.4

5,600 386.2 411.8

5,700 380.6 413.1

5,800 375.6 414.8

5,900 376.2 422.6

6,000 370.7 423.5

6,100 366.4 425.6

6,200 362.8 428.3

6,300 359.3 431.0

6,400 352.8 429.9

6,500 349.4 432.4

Peak in baseline configuration was 432.4 horsepower at 6,500 rpm.

Maximum torque was 402.8 foot-pounds at 5,000 rpm.

The second test duplicated the first with only the one-inch-tall HVH Super Sucker carburetor spacer added. Results follow:

rpm torque horsepower

5,000 413.2 393.4

5,100 405.3 393.6

5,200 398.8 394.9

5,300 402.1 405.8

5,400 396.9 408.1

5,500 390.4 408.8

5,600 387.2 412.9

5,700 379.8 412.2

5,800 377.1 416.4

5,900 378.6 425.3

6,000 372.6 425.7

6,100 370.9 430.8

6,200 369.0 435.6

6,300 367.3 440.6

6,400 367.1 447.3

6,500 353.7 437.7

As you can see, the small-block peaked at 447.3 horsepower at 6,400 rpm, and the maximum torque of 413.2 foot-pounds occurred at 5,000 rpm. In comparing peaks, the Super Sucker added 14.9 horsepower and 10.4 foot-pounds of torque (again at peak).

There go the assumptions. In theory, the two-inch model should have made even more power. So how in the world does this thing work?

I asked that of Keith Petelle of High Velocity Heads. He said, "These spacers work, obviously, by helping the fuel distribution. If you look at the bottom of the spacer, you'll see that the shape is different [in comparison to other spacers]. We wanted to improve the feeding of the outside runners on a single four-barrel manifold. The design picks up the air speed and gives it a specific direction. Finally, the plastic composite material insulates the carburetor.

Plenty of people are skeptical. Many people will think that if they spend big money on a hand-fabricated intake manifold, they don't need a spacer. We've had some racers with very powerful engines see major gains. We've had some used on Comp engines. The spacers don't discriminate between expensive, high-horsepower engines and low-cost, low-horsepower engines. They work equally well on either small-displacement engines or big ones. We typically see power increases in the range you found. We've seen more, but it really does depend on the engine and the type of manifold used."

Currently, HVH spacers are made from solid plastic composite stock on Haas CNC mill equipment. The company offers one-inch- and two-inch-tall four-hole spacers for 4150 Holley carburetors, one-inch- and two-inch-tall four-hole spacers for Holley Dominator carburetors, open one-inch-tall spacers for Holley 4412 carburetors, and one-inch-tall two-hole spacers for Holley 4412 carburetors.

The spacers aren't cheap at a price range between $85 and $105 (racer's net), but they do provide cheap power, and in a well-sorted engine, 15 horsepower for 85 bucks can be considered a bargain.

My preconceived notions were definitely wrong: There is power to be gained from a carb spacer, but it takes a special configuration like the one used on the Super Sucker to make it happen.

July 14, 2003

I would if the stub axles were the GM sized to prevent breakage.

July 14, 2003

Yeah those things are strong as hell...just dont them too close to the crank or may freeze up....lol! By the way I had to order my oil Filter PH5 from the states because they told me here in Okinawa that they dont make them...oh brother! I hate this place....no wonder everyone over here spends thousands on the blender engines...at least they can get what they want....thank goodness for the Turbo....

JK

July 13, 2003

Grumpy thanks! I did already take your advice and put 4 magnets in my pan. Those damn things just about cut my finger in half trying to seperate them during install..lol. Should I drop my pan or just drain the oil and change filter?

July 13, 2003

Thanks Grumpy. Im learning all the time. How hard is it change the shaft gear? My pin goes all the way through with holes on both sides (MSD Pro Billet) After I punch out the pin. do I need a press the get the gear off?

July 13, 2003

This is what I found...

RETRO-FIT ROLLER CAMS... Install

For those of you considering installing a "retro-fit" roller cam in your engine, be it a 302 or a 350... BE ADVISED... many cam manufacturers require the use of a "BRONZE DISTRIBUTOR GEAR" which in turn would require replacement of the gear frequently when used for everyday "street" use.

S O M E cam manufacturers have already addressed this problem and are offering a retro-fit cam for these popular engines with an iron or steel gear that of course would NOT require frequent changing.

Check with your manufacturer or call their tech line before making a purchase of a retro-fit cam to insure you are not buying a cam which would eventually lead to a high maintenance situation.

Factory HR cams are made from a dedicated core that is the same material as a regular hydraulic cam. Comp Cams decided to use their readily available steel billet core, which has the appearance of a solid roller cam. This means you'll need to install a bronze distributor gear, which is no big deal. Two different inner diameter bronze gears are available, so measure your shaft diameter before ordering.

This gear is mandantory for billet cams as billet steel will simply chew up a standard drive gear."

From the net.....Man Im pissed. Summit told me this would work fine...don't listen to the summit guys...do your home work. Learn from my mistakes (and I have had many)....

July 13, 2003

Well guys one thing after another. I may have found out why my timing marks were so far off and still running. I am tuning my engine tonight and all of the sudden there was a loud sound that came from the engine...sorta sounded like someone dropping a bunch of change or something. Then the engine died. Would nt start up. Rockers were good and turned over but nothing. I tried to get the distributor out but it was stuck. I finally got it out and ALL the teeth on the drive gear are dust@!*&^%. I am sure my can gear is shot too. Damn...does anyone know what could cause this? I was running the MSD billet distributor Part#85551 with the Comp Cams 12-432-8 EX282 HR Retrofit. They told me it would work fine. Were they wrong? Theres something I read about a bronze gear etc...does this apply? I want MSD again so what do you guys recommend? Grumpy have you ever had this happen? What are your wise words of wisdom? I guess I have to tear it down underneath and put in new cam and distributor. Please advise! Damn Okinawa sucks!!!!lol. No support.

CZ

July 12, 2003

Grumpy what single plane intake would you suggest for my build? I run the numbers on DD2000 and I get 35 more HP at 6000 and 13 more Torque at 4500RPMS by using a single plane vice dual plane. Also ofcoarse running open exhaust I get even more. I just want to play with the intake at this point so here are the numbers Im running:

350SBC .040 over

12-432-8 Comp Cams HD

Small Tube Headers with DynoMax Mufflers

750DP 04779C

AFR190 Heads

Dual Plane AFR match ported intake

I get 435HP at 6000 and 433TQ at 4500 Dual Plane with mufflers

I get 470HP at 6000 and 446TQ at 4500 Single Plane with mufflers

I get 460HP at 6000 and 451TQ at 4500 Dual Plane with out mufflers

I get 493HP at 6000 and 465TQ at 4500 Single Plane with out mufflers

Do you think the single plane would work better since the car is light and I would have better top end? If so what do you suggest? Victor Junior?

CZ

July 11, 2003

Thanks! I was scared for a minute! I got it on 3 now down from 5. That might be part of the traction problem. I think 1 or 2 will work better! Thaks again.....

July 10, 2003

Hey Ive been in Japan for over 15 years total and I love it. It is a single mans dream world at time but the racing seen is serious and they make great cars. Its just crazy expensive over here for parts, that why I like the V8Z so much better. I also have the only one on the Island of Okinawa...I guess Im special...lol.

CorZette

New Pics on site..

July 10, 2003

Guys, what setting is the softess on the Tokiko 5 way adjustables? My car rides like a ZED SLED. Dont know which setting is best...

July 10, 2003

I unstalled a 16 Gal plastic cell on the back of my 240 and it get hot as hell on the underside only. Thats strange but the cell is actually warping because of it. I just ordered the Triangle Aluminum one. Is it OK to mount inside the car as long as it is secure? I will run the vent valve to the outside of coarse. Any input on this or suggestions?

July 9, 2003

Mark, Ill be back either next year or after 3 more. If I pick up E8 Ill stay another 3 hear.Good money and the wife is a GS-5 with COLA! After that Ill retire. Well things are going pretty good. Did the drive from Kinser to Nago and back for the break in. My fricken tranny is going but I knew it was just a matter of time. Cant race with this one but can drive easily. Still rockets. Funny I have no traction in 1st or second AT ALL! I will be getting my NITTO 555Rs this week or next. 275 50 15s. I hope they work or Im dust. Supposed to be a 450HP build and I would say its damn close. Ill dyno it at techno sports after the new Raptor comes in. $1575 plus $500 for shipping air and customs. Such is life. Next plan is an upgrade to a 413 or 383...dont know yet. That will keep me busy over the next three years!

Semper Z Dude!

CorZette

Hello Grumpy! Hows thew gators there days!

July 8, 2003

Thanks buddy! Im learning...

July 8, 2003

Spiirit, you da man....I think your talking about a different forum, like RB26 Turbod Cessnas???

CZ (The guy with the fouled damper)

July 8, 2003

OK, listen to this. I get my exhaust on, fire it up, it sounds great! Too much gas fumes coming out of the tail pipe (real rich, plugs black. I have the AFR190 heads and was running the AC43TS I think it was with the short threads. I call up the AFR guy and says "NO NO GET THOSE OUT OF THERE". He said to use the ACFR3LS plugs with the longer threads etc. They are discontinued so they cross referenced to NGK BCPR5ES. I went and got some, spaced them at around .042 and put them in. I fired her up and WHOLLA no more fumes, smoke anything and is very smooth now with no hesitation. What a difference the correct plugs make. All you AFR guys may want to check them out because it is a very noticeable difference. Now I just have to make sure my power valve is the right size. My cams duration is 282 so the 6.5 might be a little big. I will do a vaccuum check tomorrow and determine. So far so good@! Tomorrow I drive it to break in the engine for the first time on the highway! I cant sleep tonight! Well just thought I would share that strange experience with everyone..... Oh i have new pics too in new albums!

July 7, 2003

Guys I just wanted to ask your opinions on this. I want to buy the Proform main body for the 750 Holley DP. http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?part=PRO%2D67100C

Is this a valid investment? Also, the link below to save me from buying a million different jets, would this be a good option? Anybody got any input on the quality etc? Im thinking about getting both of these upgrades...please advise.

http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?part=HLY%2D55001HOL

Exhaust is done and man it sounds sweet! Gonna Dyno in a couple of weeks!

July 2, 2003

OK I give up...it runs fine so Ill run it till it drops then order a 383 short block and do it right next time. Okinawa sucks majorly...Thanks for everyones patience. Engine runs fine timing marks dont jive...is set at TDC etc....just dont make sense....Im done worrying about it. Ill dyno it and see where were at...

July 2, 2003

So actually its 180 degrees out then? I would just turn it to TDC with the rotor pointing to #6 and take out and reinstall to #1 right? My TDC is correct however. Man if that the case, this thing is really gonna be a screamer...It burns the tire easily now...how funny

July 2, 2003

Wow! this could be the problem. I installed dot to dot but it friggin starts and runs pretty good. The only wierd thing is when I take off a vaccuum line it doesnt make much difference and it runs rich but no popping etc. I do have to crank the cap all the way left though. Would an engine run like this? I definately did not turn the crank around one rev before installing the distributor. I hope this is the problem! Crossing my fingers...

July 2, 2003

Here we go around the mullberry bush...OK still havent fixed my damper timing problem. Heres my question...here is what I read from another board on cam install and timing marks:

"Observe the position of the "dots" on the crank sprocket and cam sprocket. If your rotor was pointing at the No. 1 terminal and your timing mark on the balancer was at 0 Deg. TDC, the "dots" BOTH should be at the 12 o'clock position on their respective sprockets. Also note the position of the locating dowel on the cam. Should be at 9 o'clock. We won't be installing the new timing chain yet, of course, but just keep the positions in mind or you'll be in for some trouble later. :)"

With that said, here is how mine was done....I had the crank set at TDC (with Heads Off) and the crank dowel was pointing at 2 OClock with the dot on the crank sprocket at 12 OClock. My cam sprocket dot was at 6 OClock so the two lined up together . The cam dowel pin was at 3 OClock. The pointer was sitting at ZERO TDC. I put in my distributor at this setting and the rotor is pointing toward the #1 spark plug. This is not what the above post says but did I do it right? This could be the problem but it doesnt backfire or anything at the moment.....Grumpy are you tracking this?

Corzette

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