Corzette
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Posts posted by Corzette
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Roger that, I understand. I used the calculator and I get around 7:7:1 ratio. You said I was slightly off....what would be a good target to shoot for? Say 8:1:1 or so? If I go with what I have now would I be giving up alot of power?
Sorry so many questions but I want to do it right the first time. You are the motor GOD you know! I was thinking about maybe 64 cc heads to be in between but AFR doesnt make those I dont think....
Terry
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Thanks guys! Makes my day! Yes I will have her home (IN OKINAWA OFCOARSE) next weekend. Then I will start reassembly of the interior and outside etc. The engine will be dropped sometime in April maybe (BOOO HOOO). The heads are are expensive. Not to mention a million trips to the bolt store Im sure... Ill post pics as I go along. Can you believe this car is worth over 20 grand to the right buyer. Well I wont sell...no..no..no..
CZ -
By the way I have a few new paint pics of the car...more to come.
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This is what I get with the calculator:
Cylinder Head Volume (cc) 68
Piston Head Volume (cc) 7
Gasket Thickness (in.) .038
Gasket Bore (in.) 4.060
Cylinder Bore Diameter (in.) 4.040
Deck Clearance (in.) 0.00
Stroke (in.) 3.48
COMPRESSION RATIO 09.804
If I use the Gasket bore of 4.060 vice 4.125 I get a little higher CR as well. How do these numbers look Grumpy? I think I will stay with the AFR 190s. Do you think this build would put out anything close to 450HP? Seems a little high to me...
CZ
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Grumpy, I am a little confused. The book says the Compression Ratio should be around 9:5:1. When you say dynamic are you talking about the actual CR? Man 7:6:1 would be a dog. Do you think AFR makes a 62CC Head? Do you know any others that flow as well as AFR that may have a 64CC chamber? I am looking for around 9:5:1 - 10:1 ratio. Man its a good thing I asked you about....My pistons are the KB106 flattop type. My cam is a retrofit so cam rod clearances are not a problem. It all rotates freely..
CZ
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Grumpy if you are out there can you please help out a distant friend! I have finally got my car out of paint and it can be seen under the paint album below. I plan on building the 450 HP setup on AFRs site. This is what I have so far...
350 .040 over
Scat 350 crank 3.48
5.7 Eagle rods
KB106 Flat Tops
Comp Cams XR282HR-10
Part Number 12-432-8
Grind Number CS XR282HR-10
Description
Intake Exhaust
Valve Adjustment 0 0
Gross Valve Lift 0.51 0.52
Duration At 0.006 Tappet Lift 282 288
Valve Timing At 0.006
Open Close
Intake 35 67
Exhaust 78 30
These Specs Are For The Cam Installed At 106 Intake CL
Intake Exhaust
Duration At 0.05 230 236
Lobe Lift 0.34 0.347
Lobe Separation 110
I want to run a holley 750 DP
Hooker Block Huggers 2 1/2 Duals to X pipe and out etc.
I want to get the AFR intake that they recommend
I want to get the AFR 190 heads
I will have 3:54 rear gears 700R4 with 2800 stall
Do you think the AFR 195s will do a better job or should I stay with the 190s. Is there a better intake selection? I have already bought everything except the heads, intake, and carb.
Grumpy I need your advice before I buy the rest of these parts...which would be the best bet. Afr says 450HP from their specs??????
CorZette
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Well fellow Zers my ride is finally out of paint and will be coming home next friday. I have posted some initial pics before wet sandinging at my site. Click on the paint album and let me know what ya all think so far! By the way I get my heads next week! AFR 190s...
CorZette
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Got a Certificate in Japanese Studies with emphasis on foriegn language (Japanese), an AA Degree in Liberal Arts, a BS Degree from University of Maryland in Management Studies/Environmental Management/Asian Studies, and am currently working on my Masters in Public Relations. All from U of M
CorZette
(The Educated Killer) LOL....
USMC
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Ross, no body mentioned bearings...what bearings do we need in order to reassemble the 280 stubs back into the 240 housing?
CZ
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I dont think anyone said this but I had the same prob. My pulleys were wrong. My pully on the crank was way to big and made the water pump turn way to fast causing the flow to circulate to fast etc...once I changed the pulley to under drive it works fine...just a thought!
CorZette
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If you do go with that Tranny it is a 27 Spline and lockup type. I have a brand new in the box 2800 stall lockup I will sell ya for $175. Let me know what happens!!
CorZette
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I have a crazy question...some of us were worried about upgrading our stub axles on the 240s to the 280 type but had problems with the bearings fitting etc. My question is...can't we just swap out the entire strut assy/traverse links etc from a 280Z? If so , what are the differences? Are the struts different only? Will it bolt up to the 240? If it does, then I am in the market for the left and right sides as of NOW! Ross, I need some adapters....can someone shed some light on this? By the way I will be in Texas (San Angelo) from the 8th to the 19th, then over to Nashville till the 26th...then back to this god forsaken place (Okinawa)...
Thanks
CorZette
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Well I did make my 26X19 Griffin fit but I wouldnt recommend it to anyone. I had the tabs welded on as well as the bottom pet **** . I had to tap in the lower sides a bit on each side to make it fit, but lucky for me everything works well...Ill post pics later at my site once I get the thing out of paint...
CZ
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Z YA, is your 700R4 a 27 or 30 spline?
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Luckydawg. I will be retiring in Angelo in 2004. I plan on going to WALL alot to drag. I will have a 73 240Z V8...keep an eye out! Maybe we can meet some day! Nice car!
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ZFAN, you out there? I think I know why our trannys lazily shift to third now when they used to pop into third. I found that my 12volt wire running to the electric coupling is missing. This wire enable the tranny to lock the converter in third.Well now it doesnt so it slips alot more before going into gear....read these links, it will help bunches:
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HELP!!! I JUST BOUGHT A NEW 2800 STALL SPEED CONVERTER. I asked for a 27 Spline and got a fricken 30 spline 2800 stall for the 700R4.Can anyone tell me where to a place to look up a serial number to determine the make of my Tranny? The serial number is 8683549.?Does anyone want to buy this one before I send it back...$325 includes shipping. Good to 450 HP.
CZ
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PJ, looks good but how thick are those? Looks like you didnt have much trouble shaping them. Man I used 1MM thick Zinc material and was a royal pain inthe A$$. At least they will never rust again. If you want to see mine up close check out my site for reference...good job!!
Corzette
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By the way, does anyone know the proper torque for the oilpump bolt? 65ftlbs?
CZ
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Kevin, thanks for the encouragement. Well I put magic marker (red) on the bearing, put it in the cap and tightened it down just a little. Then I turned the crank, it only catches on about 1/4 of the turn. I then took off the cap and looked at the bearing...wholla, the only place where the marker rubbed off was on the left upper side of the cap bearing. I guess now I will take off the bearing and sand behind it on the cap and replace..then start all over again. I will do this until the crank moves freely. I have an air porting tool with MANY attachments so wish me luck!!! Let you all know how this turns out...
By the way, here in Japan, when a car is no longer running, they just junk them or replace the engine with one from a junk yard. There are some machine shops, but none that I talked to had an align bore machine...pretty much just milling and boring machines only...cars are very dispensable here. I don't suggest bringing one over here for a total restore unless you have the parts to bring with. However, this cap thing is a freak accident and none of this would have happen if the fricken oil pump bolt cap hole didnt blowup when I torked the bolt down. I really hate cast iron....oh well all is well. I order the air porting tool from www.northerntools for $29.00. They want $120 here. Greedy $&^*!!@#... Thanks again Hybrid brothers!!! There will be a V8 Z here in Okinawa soon!!!
CorZette
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Kev, sorry, I dont how else to say it I guess. I just found out that they can not do alighn honing here...WTF? They showed my how to use a porting tool and sanding pad etc to get the cap to fit. I have to put it on and check the markes where it hits the bearing, then take out the bearing and sand down the cap in that spot a little at a time until the crank will turn freely. Sounds like a scary thing huh///Be glad your not me...because I have to do this to MY CAR!!!! Damn this sucks butt-ox. Ill keep all informed as this is the first time anyone has probably done this.....Im pissed, I cant put my engine back together until I get this thing settled.
CorZette
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No I mean when you put the bearing in the cap, it is not a flush fit on top. My other cap is flush. This one sticks out maybe 1mm or so. Do they need the entire block to align hone the rear cap or can I take the two caps and tell them to match them?
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Grumpy, I hate to say it but the cap didn't work. It seems like the cap has been ground a little too much. When I put my bearing in it, the bearing sides stick out about 1mm or so. This of coarse make the fit WAY too tight. The bearing in my original cap sits flush on each side. Any suggestions? I will mail this one back to ya, maybe someone else could it. Oh the pain, the pain....
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ZED, the Zs are notorious for this....replace the sender with one from MSA and itll be fine...
CZ
CZ
FINAL DECISIONS IN OKINAWA JAPAN
in Gen I & II Chevy V8 Tech Board
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Man Grumpy thanks for taking the time to post that...sounds like the secret ingredients to a winning combo. My next engine will be a 383 or 406 for sure. Ill see if they can mill the heads .015 before shipping and use a .038 with 4.150 or so bore gasket....
CZ