Corzette

Hey guys, can someone run this combo for HP. I am in Jpan and almost ready to finish the engine for the 240. I need some help if possible. Here is the combos I am looking at. SBC 350 .040 over KB Flat Tops 5.7 stroke AFR 190 Heads AFR dual plane intake Holley 750 Block Huggers 2 1/2 duals Flow Master Delta Force Cam is Comp Cams 12-432-8 Hyd Roller ALSO, please check this combo, it may be better... SBC 350 .040 over KB Flat Tops 5.7 stroke AFR 195 Heads AFR dual plane intake Holley 750 Block Huggers 2 1/2 duals Flow Master Delta Force Cam is Comp Cams 12-432-8 Hyd Roller SBC 350 .040 over KB Flat Tops 5.7 stroke AFR 195 Heads AFR dual plane intake Holley 750 Block Huggers 2 1/2 duals Flow Master Delta Force Cam is Comp Cams 12-433-8 Hyd Roller If grumpy is out there, do you have any suggetsions? I wonder if going to a single plane intake would be advantageous?

Now I have to find a machine shop! Terry

Thanks guys I appreciate your time... TB

Please delete...sorry

HELP!!!!

Is there a tool for getting the piston wrist pins out and putting them back in...I am going nuts here trying to find a way to get them out...LOL...Help!!! corZette

As far as cost... I bought 2 sheets of Zinc galvanized metal and cut out the floor pans via cardboard template. Thet are 1 MM thick so it was a bitch to shape them. However a little heating with the torch help. I then jacked the pans up into position and adjusted the fit etc. I had to used a torch and steel rods to weld them. I welded everthing except the door rail side. I used tapping screws to secure this area. I will seal that space with rubber sealant later. I wasn't planning for this to happen but after comparing it with the original it comes out about 7/8 of an higher than stock. You have to lower the seat frame a bit unless your a short person to get the same clearance inside. The goos thing about ZINC is that it will never rust again!!! The water doesn't matter and I probably have the world's strongest floor pans now. I am sure it helps with the body strength too. The sheets cost s me about $20 per and the rods plus the O2 and Acetalene was about about $50. I should be done with this car around August or so....it fricken rains here alot so I have to wait for it to stop to really work on the car. I am gonna build an over head in May so I can work on the car at night and during the rain. I will keep in touch. TB

I will try to post when I get everything in... I have the floor pans pics ready soon but how do I post? Terry

What a concept. When I installed my new floor pans I had to cut up about an extra inch to get all the rust out. I then made new ones from ZINC and welded them in. Well, the floor is about 1 inch or higher so I made the seat frames 1 inch lower and kept the same clearance inside. Well this allowed me to get the clearance I needed for the full length headers from MSA. I am one happy camper...no beating the floor pan. I think it also improved the joint angle as well... what does everyone think about that idea? Pros/Cons CoeZette

Thanks Ray!!!! What do you need? I may have someone who can check for ya. CorZette

Thank you sooooo much...now maybe I can get a square peg in a round hole! Terry

HELP!!!! Boy do I feel stupid.....OK here it goes. Well I am in Japan doing my restore of the beast V8Z. I take apart the front control arms to replace the bushings with Urethane bushings. Well the control arm bushings when inserted stick out about 1 inch on one side and 1/4 of an inch on the other. Actually the stock bushing pin does as well on the original bushing set. WELLLLLLL after I took them off I forgot which side the control arms are supposed to go on. Should the big space 1 inch be on the left or right side or in other words to the front or the back. Right now I have them mounted where the biggest space is towards the front and I cant get my front sway bar to fit.....can someone check thier c-Arm and tell me how its supposed to be. I went crazy trying to find a pic but have had no luck!!!! Thank guys in advance I know HybridZ will come thru!! Terry CorZette

HELP!!!! Boy do I feel stupid.....OK here it goes. Well I am in Japan doing my restore of the beast V8Z. I take apart the front control arms to replace the bushings with Urethane bushings. Well the control arm bushings when inserted stick out about 1 inch on one side and 1/4 of an inch on the other. Actually the stock bushing pin does as well on the original bushing set. WELLLLLLL after I took them off I forgot which side the control arms are supposed to go on. Should the big space 1 inch be on the left or right side or in other words to the front or the back. Right now I have them mounted where the biggest space is towards the front and I cant get my front sway bar to fit.....can someone check thier c-Arm and tell me how its supposed to be. I went crazy trying to find a pic but have had no luck!!!! Thank guys in advance I know HybridZ will come thru!! Terry CorZette

Hey guys, I am continuing my restore and V8 swap etc... on my 73 240 but I need to know something...I have the JTR set back mounting plates and I need to know what the bolt sizes and lengths I need to mount the plates and motor mounts are and how many each etc. I am in Japan and METRIC rules here so I have to get my bolts from the states being easier I think. They have International bolts but I need the info so I can procure....CAN SOMEONE HELP Please!!!!? Also, does anyone have a set of motor mounts they want to get rid of for the JTR conversion or maybe where I can get a set? Thanks!!!! CorZette

Owen, I have thought about that. Do you think Hybridz would allow it! There is one other hybrid coming soon with his car and Heather Jackson is coming here without. I am going to all the car shows here when I get done and they have a drag that is only 330 feet but fun I am sure. The guys I seen are running 6.30s and 40s in the 330. What 1/4 mile time does that equate too...could someone tell me? Terry

Stony, I totally understand...I am a visitor here and I am not trying to be the fasyes. I can say that I should be the most unique however. If I decide to retire here I will spend the money and drop an 871 and Big Block in. That would get some attention. I talked to Matt and he is going to give me an estimate on doing full length custom headers for me. he can make them in Stainless or Titanium. WHY WHY would anyone want Titanium...they will crack. Anyway...Ill keep ya informed. Terry

Hey guys, thanks for the info. Yeah I can't wait to get the Z up and rollin. I am doing a complete restore...ALL NEW PARTS and performance upgrades....FUEL CELL, BRAKES, SUSPENSION, NEW ZINC FLOOR PANS ETC....I am sure you know the routine. Thanks Mike for mailing the rods etc...hey you can say you have a part of you in Japan as well. I will be asking more questions when I start putting the engine together. Everyone is running the 180SX (240SX in the states)over here with Turbo or Soarers or Skylines. I think I should do some major damage provided I put everything together right. I will keep all updated. How can I post pics? I will take vids of some races when I get it running...the Japanese are fricken crazy!! CorZette

Hey guys, I just mounted a fuel cell on the Z with a 0-90 Ohm sender unit. Can I use the Stock Dtsun Fuel gage with this or do I have to buy a gage to match? Any help is appreciated. CorZette

Guys, where in the hell can I get some aerosol Polyurethane Foam for applying between the over fenders? I can't find it anywhere...please help!!!! CorZette

quote: Originally posted by corZette: Hey guys corZette here in Japan. I need to order some paint to paint my car. I want to get it over the internet. Does anybody have a site they can share? Boy this restoration is going slow but going. I am replacing all rusted body parts with ZINC metal. It will never rust in the same spot again. Any help is appreciated. I have many pics to share of the on going process. Does anyone know how I can get a free web site? Thanks

Hey guys corZette here in Japan. I need to order some paint to paint my car. I want to get it over the internet. Does anybody have a site they can share? Boy this restoration is going slow but going. I am replacing all rusted body parts with ZINC metal. It will never rust in the same spot again. Any help is appreciated. I have many pics to share of the on going process. Does anyone know how I can get a free web site? Thanks

Can anyone tell me where I can get a cylinder honing tool that I can attach to a drill for honing my block? They don't do that here in Japan for some reason....anyone please and how much do they run? Thanks CorZette[*]null

Hey guys its CorZette again. I am pulling my engine over here for the rebuild. I am going with the AFR 190 heads. SOMEONE posted a website address with engine build ups of 350s and 383s with the AFR heads. It had all the CAM and Carb combos etc.. combinations listed. Does anyone know what that address is? I am in the process of ordering all of my parts. I have a 350 .040 over. I want to get flat top pistons but don't know what brand to get to be compatible with the AFRs. Also, AFR has a suggested intake that I want. The total build was supposed to produce around 450 HP. It had a Comp Cam listing as well...HELP!!!! Someone please tell me you have the info...Its is V8 TIME over here in Okinawa and the streets will never be the same. I will put up a website soon of some of the things going on over here... Thanks in advance V8ers... CorZette

What is Torque Converter Stall? -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Stall speed is the point where a converter has reached it's maximum fluid flow or it has hydraulically locked up because torque multiplication has reached it's highest point. All stall speed ratios are approximate and will vary, based on the torque of the engine. Small and Big Block combinations will vary 300 to 500 R.P.M.'s Stall speed is the amount of engine R.P.M. that can be attained at full throttle with the brakes locked and the transmission in gear before the drive wheels turn. It is very important to determine if your vehicles drive wheels turn before the desired stall is reached, you must either "flash" the converter to attain higher stall or install a brake proportioning valve that directs more fluid to the drive wheel brakes to better hold the vehicle. In either case, attainable stall ratio will not exceed 3500 R.P.M., due to the vehicle braking system, which is even worse with disc brake equipped cars. Performance engines are modified to produce more horsepower and torque and it is essential to know what the peak torque of your engine is and to match the stall speed ratio of the torque converter with the engines power curve. This match will give the optimum performance or "launch" of the vehicle. There are no closer-tied components in any vehicle than the engines camshaft the the torque converter. Attention to this detail is of utmost importance to your vehicle's optimum performance.

Sorry, here is the link if anyone wants to know... http://www.mortec.com/carbtip1.htm CorZette