Corzette

Pretty cool...thanks!

Im guilty on three counts +....lol

Awesome post....Im guilty of all...

I just bled my brakes and the pedal really goes further than I wanted. It gets hard about 1 inch from the floor and then goes no further. Should I lengthen the rod connecting to the pedal? There is about a 2 inch travel before it gets harder. Also if I buy a vacuum canister and install it, will it help with the braking at all? CorZette

Oh I got the template today! Thanks again. Now you have an investment in the Okinawa CZ! I also ordered the COMP-9 modular wiring harness today and will prob change it out AFTER I get it running the end of this month. God Okinawa sucks tail. I cant wait to get home with a garage, Lowes, and a race track etc.. CZ Out...

I warned the buyers on this creep.....

1. OK guys here it goes. I just assembled everything back in my car. ALL my systems work except for the signal lights. The wire from the fuse box that feeds the column switch is grounded somewhere and blows the fuse, hence no power to the Signal switch. Now that we know this...... 2. My Hazards work just fine. With that said theres two things to consider... first if the Hazards work, shouldnt my wires running to the front and rear signal lights be good to go? Not grounded. I suspect that the power feed line is grounded to negative some where instead. 3. If this is the case, cant I just run an alternate power wire to the column for the signal light switch? Would this work? Or option 2.... 4. Can I manually rig new wires to the signal lights (IF THEY ARE SHORTED ONLY) and run them to the column. Question is, how do I run them thru a flasher relay? Do they make a relay that left and right can attach to (NOT LIKE THE ONE THE Z HAS)? Is everybody following me on this? Lastly I need to know which wires are power and which are going to the signal lights. The Signal switch has two socket connectors. One is short with 4 mostly red wires. The second is longer and has mostly green wires (I ASSUME THESE GO TO THE SIGNAL LIGHTS VIA THE FLASHER). Can anyone chime in on that as well. Hey I am learning but I am very creative. I am replacing the entire electrical system at a later date but that will be amother project. I should have done it during my downtime before reassembly but....shouldve wouldve couldve. I guess that is enough food for thought thus far! Is PETE out there? Maybe I could get some of your electrical wisdom. Thanks for listening everyone.....Patiently awaiting any advise. A wiring diagram for the signal switch would help bunches.... CorZette

Thats why IRAQIS can't win wars.... GySgt CZ

Chase, didnt you get those from me? I sent a set out to someone. The reason I couldnt use those was because of the extensive damage to my pan area. I had to reconstruct the whole damn belly on both sides. You can see that in my pics...keep us posted!

Beautiful job! Man I want the template you used for the center cover over the wiper motor! That looks great! Seriously how much would you charge me to have you cut another one out for me? I just used plastic but I LIKE! How about $10? CZ

Thanks for the reply. I think I wil purchase it soon as well. Hey if you have a wiring diagram of the turn signal switch and headlamp switch, can I get a copy sometime? Thanks alot!!!! CZ

Z8, what harness did you buy? I think I like this one: COMP-9 Modular Panel System Wouldnt that be sufficient? I dont have an airconditioner or heater etc, just the basic lights, signals, accesorries, fuel pump, electric fan and ignition. Give me your opinion please. I will buy this sucker in a heart beat. I am just mad I didnt think of it before hand. Now I will have to pull the dash and steering wheel again. I will save this project for the fall though as I just need to get this thing running. I can get the locals to give me a quick fix. It sounds like an easy job . Take out all the old wiring, go to the junk yard and find some good light sockets for the tail and front etc to splice into, Headlight plugs too I guess. A soldering iron would help. Pull the dash, remove all the wiring and go from there. My question is "was it hard to figure out the wires coming from the ignition and turn signal switch to include the wiper switch? I guess thats the hardest part. Any input is appreciated. Thanks CZ

Well wouldnt ya know it........SH#T. I got all the wiring done and EVERYTHING, Horn, backup Lights, park Lights, Hazards, High/Low beams work just fine......BUT.....the fuse for the turn signal blows and my turn signals do not work. I tried unplugging everything to find the short and it still doesnt work. Does anyone know what it could be? Is the turn signal flasher relay on the left? The one on the right on the panel works the hazards. Since they work I suppose there is not a problem with the actual lines to the lights. Could it be in the switch somewhere? Any ideas on how to by pass and wire it up differently? Good news is the ignition works fine. At least I tested it by attaching the wires to the starter laying on the ground. It kicks over and my accessories come on when I turn on the key. So I assume it will start when time comes. Now just those Damn turn signals.... By the way is there a place that could do a complete re wire for me when I get bck to the states? I am in Texas....any Texas brothers out there that could recommend. I am really tired (as well as Im sure my wiring is) of dim headlights, Jerry rigging, shorts, burnt out fuses etc. I want to fix it once and for all. I would have done it with my rebuild but I know nothing about electrical and well.....I am in Stinking Okinawa..LOL If anyone can cheer me up about this please try! By the way the car is looking sweet. I will post more pics soon. Thanks in advance... CZ

Im glad Im not the only one!!! They do look awesome however!

Check out my site, I am just completing mine...many pics... Semper Fi.... CZ

Light covers that is....

Just a note, if you buy these covers from MSA, they are a PITA to put on correctly. I only decided to use two of the three anchors because of the hard time I had. Maybe later Ill put the other one on. What a trip... CZ

Ohaiyo Gozaimasu from Okinawa. Im putting the wiring back in and have gotten stumped on connecting the plugs on the passenger side under the glove box on the right panel. The big colored plugs are obvious but I have a few small ones that I want to make sure are correct. Does anyone have a pic of the harness plugging into the relay panel? I have a 73 240. Any help is useful. Also, the 3 wires that plug into the relay for the signal lights 2 green and 1 green/red. I assume the g/r wire goes in the middle and the other two green go on either side. Is that right? Its the relay at the top with the three single wire inputs on the side of the l plug for the flasher relay. Am I making sense? I hate electrical stuff...thanks in advance.... CZ

700R4 with 2800 stall baby!!!!

You can see my fab job process at my site under MY ALBUM. Lots of work but I like making things when I can. CZ

Oh yeah, I would be willing to bet it came from the rain pan. You can poor water into the rain pan (have someone do it) and look under the dash and watch for leakage. It used to drive me crazy until I found out the rain pan was rusted in spots. I got some .5MM galvanized sheet metal and used a cutter to cut and shape pieces to over lap the entire under belly of the rain pan. You have to remove the dash. I rivited them on with silicon in between. I also blocked off the upper opening of the rain pan to stop excess water from getting in and then finally siliconed a sheet of heavy plastic over the opening where the windshield wiper goes to totally seal top and bottom. Overkill? Maybe...but no more wet carpets. Check out my site to see the upper rain pan closure... CorZette

I was wondering the same thing....I need a new shifter

Well guys, I almost have everything for my engine build. I called Summit last night and they wont send me engine lube or the tube of teflon headbolt sealer stuff because of shipping overseas. My question is..... Can someone get me a tube of engine assembly lube and a tube of the teflon headbolt sealer and send it to me PRIORITY if I Pay with PayPal? I will pay this second if anyone can do it. It should only be about $10 for both, then shipping in a small yellow envelope with the bubble wrap another $5 at most. You can just put ASSEMBLY TEFLON on the customs paper. If anyone can help, it will be immensely appreciated. Just let me know. I know someone lives near an autozone or PepBoys etc! Just not me! LOL. Thanks in advance! CorZette Okinawa.....

Thanks guys for all the help. I understand much better now. I ordered the CompCam adjustable for $25.00. Yes I did deck the block about 1 mm. I have the retrofit setup for a SBVC350 so it may be different. The damn lifters were different and cost me over $400 bucks! The rods are the last thing I need...I GOT MY CAR BACK TODAY!!!! Man am I stoked just to see it parked out back. I spent all day putting in the new door and window seals, the lights, mirrors, and fitting the roll bar...cant wait till next weekend...engine should be done by the end of this month.... Till next time!

When I install the lifters, does the bar connecting the two lifters face upward to the sky or down towards the block when inserting? CorZette