Corzette

Hey guys I have a question. I just bought the EAgle H Beam rods with arp wave locks I think. What kind of tool do I need to take these friggen nuts off with. This is frustrating to say the least. I didn’t know I would need special tools to install. Please can some one advise… Grumpy you out there? If it isn't one thing its another...I thought full floater meant no worries...it would be nice if I could get the FRIGGEN NUTS OFF to install them...

I understand...thanks Grumpy...

Grumpy sorry for the late reply...no I haven't got it yet but I am sure it will come soon..usually takes about two weeks. I can't wait..Im going crazy. I still need heads, rockers, rollers, push rods and intake. Well Ill get the heads next month. Since my monthly allowance is $800, I should be able to speed things up after getting the heads. I am still undecided on those damn headers. I am leaning towards the hooker full length because they have a part number for them and they sound better than the sandersons as far as fit and price. Will putting those block huggers on really take away power from me? TB

Hey guys, I am considering going 1 3/4 S&S headers but won't I lose power vice using the 1 5/8s?. CorZette

I added some new pics of my 74 fairlady with sidepipes and Ken Mary Skyline tail lights that bolt in. Just go to my site and scroll down to it. CorZette

Check this....my old tail lights http://www.picturetrail.com/gallery/view?p=999&uid=533777&gid=768886&

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Thanks Terry! Terry do you have full length headers? I KNow Hooker Super Comp has a part number for the 1 5/8s but some say they want fit JTR. If not I wonder why not? Terry CorZette

Can anyone suggest a place for me to get some 90 Degree Mandrel bends? CorZette

The first thing to consider is the size of the primary tubes. Bigger tubes will give better breathing for top-end power, but the low velocity at lower rpm will make for more reversion to contaminate the next charge, so larger tubes will usually cost some low-end power. It is a common mistake to port the heads to match the headers primary pipes, but this does more harm than good. The primary tubes should be larger than the exhaust ports, this makes a reversion dam to limit reverse flow. This is most important on the port floor where velocity is the lowest. If your looking to enhance power in the 1500-3500 rpm range, you'll want 1 1/2"- 1 5/8" primaries on a small-block and 1 3/4"-1 7/8" on bigger cubic inch big blocks. Big tube race headers can help power above 5500 rpm, but may cost some low-end power. If you don't intend to rev the motor much past 5500 rpm, go with a smaller tube header. On a small block Chevy, going bigger than 1 3/4" will require an adapter plate that will need to be ported to the head and you must use a header with a special bolt pattern to bolt up to it. Primary Tube Length The shorter the primary tubes are the higher in the rpm range they will help power. Each exhaust pulse causes a high pressure wave to travel toward the collector. When it reaches the collector it is inverted and travels back toward the cylinder as a low pressure wave. It is this low pressure area that helps scavenge exhaust out of the cylinder during the overlap period. This happens when the low pressure area reaches the exhaust valve during the overlap period. The low pressure area helps draw out the exhaust and draw in more fresh intake charge. All the pressure waves travel at the speed of sound (1200-1300 ft/sec in the hot exhaust). With all the pressure waves traveling at a constant speed, you can see that the header can be only be tuned to a narrow rpm range. On a street car that needs low-end, the tubes should be longer, in a high rpm drag car they will need to be much shorter. To get you close to the optimum primary tube length, use this formula: Length (in inches) = (CID x 1900) ÷ (rpm x pri.OD2) Equal Length Primaries Equal length headers can be an advantage on a street car with a full exhaust system, but even more so an open header engine race engine. Whether they are worth it on a street car really depends on price, they are usually much more expensive. That money may get more bang for the buck elsewhere in the engine. As long as the primaries differ no more than 2 inches, they will be fine for a full exhaust system street car. Equal length headers will work the best when the banks of an engine are even firing (and most V8's are not), 180° crankshafts even out the cylinder firing and work the best with equal length headers, but the costs and the fact that they cannot be perfectly balanced makes them impractical for the street. H-Pipes Adding an simple connection between the pipes can boost power in a certain rpm range. Most header primaries are tuned to operate on the second set of pressure waves, to tune the crossover to the same rpm range it will need to operate off the 1st set of waves. If your primary tube ends 30 inches. From the back of the valve and is using the second set of pressure waves, putting the crossover 60 inches from the valves will help power at the same rpm range using the 1st set of pressure waves. In order to be effective, the crossover should be at least 90% of the diameter of the pipes. X-Pipes This is a more expensive crossover, but works a little better. The X design allows the pressure to go form one pipe to another much easier by eliminating the 90° corner. The gasses have smooth bend to follow. X-pipes take up much more room which makes it harder to place them in the best location when ground clearance is a problem. When figuring the placement of the X pipe, measure the point where the pipes meet. Thermal Coatings The biggest performance benefit of coated headers is that they help keep the heat in the exhaust system. As the exhaust gases cool, they also lose velocity. By keeping the exhaust hot, the velocity will be higher and you will get more of a scavenging effect. At low rpm, reverse flow will be reduced also. By keeping the heat in the exhaust system, you also reduce under hood temperatures, which can really be a plus if your carb is breathing under hood air. Thermal coatings (like Jot Hot) also look nice and resist rust to help the headers live longer. Thermal Wraps Thermal wrap does a better job at insulating heat and reducing under hood temperatures, but they also tend to hold in moisture and cause rust. If you use wrap on a street car, you should use a coated header to help it last. Headers will not last as long if they are run hotter, and wraps make the header run much hotter. The metal will fatigue much quicker. Gaskets will also fail sooner if the system is hotter, especially the collector gaskets.

Unbelievable! Your awesome. Thanks very much. Well I may be a celebrity here soon when we start bombing Iraq. Not that I know anything but 2 plus 2 does still equal 4 right? MAybe I can take my Z over there and race the camels!!! CorZette.....chillin like a villian... Maybe Ill change my name to: Grumpy Zette

Thanks Grumpy for the advise. That makes total sense. Will do. How much for the postage? TB

Grumpy, too cool.Thanks very much for the help. Yes this is my address. FPO AP just stands for the Foreign Post Office for the military. This is my Post Box here in Okinawa. Ill send you a money order or pay pal for the shipping! I thank you, the Marines thank you, and CorZette most definately thanks you. OK...what do you want from Japan? Terry

Man, you guys are great! Thanks Grumpy and Jeff for your help. I just can't believe these caps are so hard to get...from the states even. Grumpy, I have E-Mailed Jeff as well but if you can give me a price I can figure out which one to get. Also, let me know how much you want and how to pay you. Here is my address: GySgt Terry Baldwin PSC 557 Box 2754 FPO AP 96379 1975 4 bolt main SBC 350 rear main bearing cap (two piece seal type). Also, do you think I would get lucky and not have to align hone on a used one with new bearings? This goes to San Fran Ca., then the military sends it from there free.

I am in Okinawa and almost finished with my rebuild and damn...I broke the top off of my rear main bearing cap while torqing the oil pump bolt. This a two piece type seal cap. The engine is a 1975 4 bolt mains but of coarse the rear main cap is only two bolt. Well I have searched everywhere for this damn thing and NO ONE sells them. Can someone help me in getting one please...I am dead in the water with out a replacement. I know I have to align hone and all that but I need a replacement. Grumpy, are you out there? Any suggestions as to where I can buy this cap? GM doesn't make them anymore.....HELP!!!! CorZette

Calling all RAT experts, I am in Japan and we are going to build a 240Z RAT 468 BB. We would like to know where to start and what we need for the 8 to 9 sec 1/4. We are basically tired of these turboed blender engines here. The fastest is mid 9's We are going to change that. Any help is appreciated. Money is not an issue. This will be a huge deal here in Okinawa so anyone wanting to get a mention inour build, just help us in anyway with parts, know how, links, hooking us up with the right people etc. This one small step for the 240Z and one huge leap for American racing!!!! Guys we are ready to launch this thing but we need to cover all the logistics etc....Z people lets do this! GRUMPY we could use your insight on this one!!!!!! 900 to 1000+ Big Block???? MOre later! Thanks in advance. PLease send any info to the following addresses: If you want to help us out with info etc...lets contact each other by E-Mail... CorZette Japan (Tired of the BS) -------------------- CorZette

Calling all RAT experts, I am in Japan and we are going to build a 240Z RAT 468 BB. We would like to know where to start and what we need for the 8 to 9 sec 1/4. We are basically tired of these turboed blender engines here. The fastest is mid 9's We are going to change that. Any help is appreciated. Money is not an issue. This will be a huge deal here in Okinawa so anyone wanting to get a mention inour build, just help us in anyway with parts, know how, links, hooking us up with the right people etc. This one small step for the 240Z and one huge leap for American racing!!!! Guys we are ready to launch this thing but we need to cover all the logistics etc....Z people lets do this! GRUMPY we could use your insight on this one!!!!!! 900 to 1000+ Big Block???? MOre later! Thanks in advance. PLease send any info to the following addresses: If you want to help us out with info etc...lets contact each other by E-Mail... CorZette Japan (Tired of the BS)

I need to post elsewhere as well!!!

Calling all RAT experts, I am in Japan and we are going to build a 240Z RAT 468 BB. We would like to know where to start and what we need for the 8 to 9 sec 1/4. We are basically tired of these turboed blender engines here. The fastest is mid 9's We are going to change that. Any help is appreciated. Money is not an issue. This will be a huge deal here in Okinawa so anyone wanting to get a mention inour build, just help us in anyway with parts, know how, links, hooking us up with the right people etc. This one small step for the 240Z and one huge leap for American racing!!!! Guys we are ready to launch this thing but we need to cover all the logistics etc....Z people lets do this! GRUMPY we could use your insight on this one!!!!!! 900 to 1000+ Big Block???? MOre later! Thanks in advance. PLease send any info to the following addresses: If you want to help us out with info etc...lets contact each other by E-Mail... CorZette Japan (Tired of the BS)

Stony, they are having the NAGO thing this coming Sunday so I am going to go check it out. I will try to get some vids if possible. That guy named Armondo was talking trash but well see. Hey I was just trash talking as well about twin turbo 6 and GNZ...hell it boils down to who has the most money not engine......anyway I will see if his so called 500 HP 1.8 4 banger is the real deal or not. He says he can pull 5 bars on a single turbo...I think not. More later.

Hey, Rip Van Winkle here...man what a sleep I had lol. Well all I can say is I tell what I read. I guess if the Twin Turbo dude's website would have been updated in the last two tears I may have been more accurate...excuse me I am not MEW2 so I didn't have Psychic ability...lol. Man I know the L6 well...used to mess with them back in the 80's and they were respectable then and most definately an awesome engine....but I think some may be trying to hold onto the past. technology is a bugger and well theres that V thing to ponder....good luck to both of you. If you really wanted a race you can come over here anytime..(JAPAN) and Ill wax both of ya!!!! Don't forget to pay your import tax! He He....Good Luck on the run...By the way how did Scotty get to be the one to beat?? You may want to call Darius out...I hear he has a thing for spanking R1's! All in Fun CorZette

Hellooooo....I know some of you guys are just trying to be too nice. Twin Turbo dude posted a best of 12;25 or something like that...even if you give him a full second, he would still get spanked by 3 or 4 car lengths running against a high 10 sec GNZ. Well OK lets don't give him a full sec......DOH!!!! 15 car lengths???? Where are the time slips baby??? At any rate theres not much more boost left and a whole lotta breaking in the midst.....no dont you dare crap your pants out there and be left sitting on the line......I dont even think it will be close....GNZ rules and we will just have to accept it....JAPTIN on the other hand would post a good afternoon thrill I expect...just my 02 cents worth from Japan. He HE

Same thing here...2d to 3rd only...let me know what you find out.... maybe governor or modulator? corZette

Tim, you can count me in...I will definately want a kit too!!! CorZette