Corzette

PJ, looks good but how thick are those? Looks like you didnt have much trouble shaping them. Man I used 1MM thick Zinc material and was a royal pain inthe A$$. At least they will never rust again. If you want to see mine up close check out my site for reference...good job!! Corzette

By the way, does anyone know the proper torque for the oilpump bolt? 65ftlbs? CZ

Kevin, thanks for the encouragement. Well I put magic marker (red) on the bearing, put it in the cap and tightened it down just a little. Then I turned the crank, it only catches on about 1/4 of the turn. I then took off the cap and looked at the bearing...wholla, the only place where the marker rubbed off was on the left upper side of the cap bearing. I guess now I will take off the bearing and sand behind it on the cap and replace..then start all over again. I will do this until the crank moves freely. I have an air porting tool with MANY attachments so wish me luck!!! Let you all know how this turns out... By the way, here in Japan, when a car is no longer running, they just junk them or replace the engine with one from a junk yard. There are some machine shops, but none that I talked to had an align bore machine...pretty much just milling and boring machines only...cars are very dispensable here. I don't suggest bringing one over here for a total restore unless you have the parts to bring with. However, this cap thing is a freak accident and none of this would have happen if the fricken oil pump bolt cap hole didnt blowup when I torked the bolt down. I really hate cast iron....oh well all is well. I order the air porting tool from www.northerntools for $29.00. They want $120 here. Greedy $&^*!!@#... Thanks again Hybrid brothers!!! There will be a V8 Z here in Okinawa soon!!! CorZette

Kev, sorry, I dont how else to say it I guess. I just found out that they can not do alighn honing here...WTF? They showed my how to use a porting tool and sanding pad etc to get the cap to fit. I have to put it on and check the markes where it hits the bearing, then take out the bearing and sand down the cap in that spot a little at a time until the crank will turn freely. Sounds like a scary thing huh///Be glad your not me...because I have to do this to MY CAR!!!! Damn this sucks butt-ox. Ill keep all informed as this is the first time anyone has probably done this.....Im pissed, I cant put my engine back together until I get this thing settled. CorZette

No I mean when you put the bearing in the cap, it is not a flush fit on top. My other cap is flush. This one sticks out maybe 1mm or so. Do they need the entire block to align hone the rear cap or can I take the two caps and tell them to match them?

Grumpy, I hate to say it but the cap didn't work. It seems like the cap has been ground a little too much. When I put my bearing in it, the bearing sides stick out about 1mm or so. This of coarse make the fit WAY too tight. The bearing in my original cap sits flush on each side. Any suggestions? I will mail this one back to ya, maybe someone else could it. Oh the pain, the pain....

ZED, the Zs are notorious for this....replace the sender with one from MSA and itll be fine... CZ

Hey guys...Sorry. I didnt check the posts. I think it was a 75 or 76 Skyline. They are the exact same configuration as the Z. Its a direct bolt on. I will ask about the year as I saw another one here in Oki with them. I sold that car back before the Saudi War...Im building my new one to resemble it. By the way, any luck on getting a G-Nose anywhere? Got any contacts in Japan? The vents are off a 78 Z28... CorZette

I just wanted to chime in. If you want to see what bad floor pans look like...go to my site and view the first album. I did a total replacement with Zinc metal. It was a PITA to say the least, but well worth the effort. I paid about $50 in materials and nothing in labor, but it would have cost big bucks Im sure. Corzette

Grumpy I just saw this...thanks ZFAN. Thanks again Grumpy!!! I posted a few more pics on the site...paint next week! CZ

I just added some more pics of the restore here in Okinawa on the continuing restore page if interested. Paint is coming next month!!!! Finally... Corzette

Thanks guys...Im waiting on a 12 point to get here from Sears...lol.. Corzette

At anyrate, I have just decided to give these flares away because Grumpy did such a good deed for me. I feel like doing the same for someone. I have a set of front SCCA style flares to give away for free. You pay shipping. It wouldn't be much, maybe $30 or so from here (Okinawa Military Post) Look in your MSA books and they show a pair front and back. They go for $100 plus shipping for fronts and the same for rears. Corzette

OK everyone heard that right..I tried to pay but Grumpy says no! Thanks Grumpy, you are one in a million for sure. I think I am now motivated to do a good deed for someone on this board as well. I have a set of front over fenders that someone was wanting that I think I will give away. Afterall they are doing me no good! Thanks Grumpy!!!

Hey guys I think those flares came from MSA. They are the SCCA flares. I have them, but only on the back. You can see them at my restore site. I still have the fronts and would sell cheap...you pay shipping. I went with the Jim Cook front flares. Its all on the site... CorZette

Grumpy, just wanted to say thank you very much for your help. I just recieved the rear cap in tact. I will install this weekend. I should have more new pics up next week at my site. Hey do you have a PAYPAL address that I can send you some money on. I feel bad accepting this for free.... CorZette

http://purplesagetradingpost.com/sumner/techinfo/techinfo.html Things I didn't know Corzette

Thanks guys, I just emailed the vendor I got them from...awaiting an answer. Man this is a PITA. Thanks again!!! The SNAP ON GUY OVER HERE sells sex toys! lol. corZette

Mike Im talking about the fricken nut. It doesnt look like a regular nut. It looks like a fricken star or something. My regular sockets dont fit it. Any suggestions?

Hey guys I have a question. I just bought the EAgle H Beam rods with arp wave locks I think. What kind of tool do I need to take these friggen nuts off with. This is frustrating to say the least. I didn’t know I would need special tools to install. Please can some one advise… Grumpy you out there? If it isn't one thing its another...I thought full floater meant no worries...it would be nice if I could get the FRIGGEN NUTS OFF to install them...

I understand...thanks Grumpy...

Grumpy sorry for the late reply...no I haven't got it yet but I am sure it will come soon..usually takes about two weeks. I can't wait..Im going crazy. I still need heads, rockers, rollers, push rods and intake. Well Ill get the heads next month. Since my monthly allowance is $800, I should be able to speed things up after getting the heads. I am still undecided on those damn headers. I am leaning towards the hooker full length because they have a part number for them and they sound better than the sandersons as far as fit and price. Will putting those block huggers on really take away power from me? TB

Hey guys, I am considering going 1 3/4 S&S headers but won't I lose power vice using the 1 5/8s?. CorZette

I added some new pics of my 74 fairlady with sidepipes and Ken Mary Skyline tail lights that bolt in. Just go to my site and scroll down to it. CorZette

Check this....my old tail lights http://www.picturetrail.com/gallery/view?p=999&uid=533777&gid=768886&