aarang

I made a new fuel rail, so that side of it is easy to adjust. It is the part of the injector ( they are shorter) that mounts to the manifold that is different. I don't want to start grinding on my intake to find out later it will not work!

I recently received new 44lb Accel injectors from Summit for my turbo project. After opening the box, even though they are the Bosch style injector, they are a bit shorter than the stock 280ZXT injectors or the Mustang SVO injectors that I was using. Has anyone used this style of injector, and if so what mods were needed to make them work. I was thinking I could sand down the plastic mounting spacer, to put them deeper into the manifold, but it still would be pushing it to make them seal properly. Is there another injector of roughly that size (44lb)that would work a little easier? I've heard of people using the Mercedes injector, but some say they are 380cc, not 420cc. Is there another aftermarket SVO injector that is larger than 370cc's? I've asked a few SVO guys, but they didn't know. Any opinions/ help/comments appreciated. Thanks Aaron

I have a complete uncut 83 turbo harness if your interested. Some of the injector connectors need to be replaced, but otherwise it is in good shape. LMK Aaron

87 Ford Mustang SVO works, or any turbo shop can get you one for the Garrett internal W/G flapper housing. Aaron

The OEM 944 turbo pump is available from benzbin.com for $169 the last time I checked. Aaron

I eventually got my turbo from Turbo's Direct in Phoenix ( Thanks James!). They are very knowledgable and the price was excellent for a brand new turbo. I would highly recommend them. Their phone number is 602-870-1456. Talk to Scott. You don't get the bad vibe from them like at Majestic! Aaron

I think eventually I'll go to the 60-1, but for now 400hp is my goal. As with anything, it always needs MORE POWER! I used to drag race a big block Chevy truck ( mid 11's) and it was a never ending quest for faster times, but emissions testing killed that thing for street use. Aaron

Hey Lockjaw, yours is the JWT sport 450 turbo, right? Is your W/G hole ported, and do you have any boost creep problems? Aaron

OK, here is what I got, TO4E 57/ T3 .63 stg V. oil/water. I was going to go with the 60 E, but the builder thought I might have boost creep problems with that large of a compressor. My goal is 400 HP at the crank. He said that the 57 could easily do that at about 18-20 lbs of boost. I have been reading the archives about the 57 and 60 trims, and have not come up with a direct conclusion on if the 60 is alot better than the 57. Some say yes, others say no. Compressor maps say maybe, but the real world is a different place, and what works on paper my not be the case in real life. I think the 60E would be better for a 3.0, and not the 2.8 like I have. For my HP goals I think it will do good. Any other opinions? I also asked him about porting the W/G hole. He said that they won't warranty the turbine housing against cracks if it is ported. I know others have done this. Opening the hole is easy, but what about the flapper. Where can I get a new flapper housing that has a larger door? It also comes with a new actuator ( single port), would changing that to a 2 port be better to controlling boost creep with the right controller? I think my combo is good from all the research I have done, so at this point I just want some opinions if I could just make it a little nicer Turbo. Oh and here is the engine it is going on ( when it get assembled!) L28 2.0mm over, rods peened/polished, balanced assy, studded forged pistons ( 8.2/1 comp ratio) Cleaned up P90, MSA stg II turbo cam Ported N42 non EGR intake, 60mm T/B Spearco I/C SDS EFI, 44lb inj. Ported stock exhaust manifold, Jeff P. D/P and 3in exhaust. Thanks Aaron

Well I was ready to plunk down the cash on a new turbo yesterday, so I thought I would call Majestic. After doing mucho research, doing searches on this site, and reading Maximum Boost about a hundred times, I came up with the combo of a T04e 60/ T3 stg V. Kevin at Majestic said that this combo would be too big and would not spool to full boost until about 4000rpm's. I had read other info saying this is not true. He suggested a T04e 57/ T3 stg III. I don't really like the comp map for the 57 and I don't want the engine to run out of breath at 5500rpm's. I am going to run a nominal comp ratio of 8.2/1 so it won't be a slug off the bottom end. Another suggestion was to run the T04e 50/ T3 stg III. The map for the 50 seems almost like it was designed for the L series engines, but others have said that it does run out of breath at higher rpm's. Also i have read that other people have had reliability problems with Majestic turbos. Is there another reputable company that won't charge me an arm and a leg like Turbonetics or Jim Wolf? Any comments or opinions/ help is greatly appreciated! Thanks Aaron

Well I was ready to plunk down the cash on a new turbo yesterday, so I thought I would call Majestic. After doing mucho research, doing searches on this site, and reading Maximum Boost about a hundred times, I came up with the combo of a T04e 60/ T3 stg V. Kevin at Majestic said that this combo would be too big and would not spool to full boost until about 4000rpm's. I had read other info saying this is not true. He suggested a T04e 57/ T3 stg III. I don't really like the comp map for the 57 and I don't want the engine to run out of breath at 5500rpm's. I am going to run a nominal comp ratio of 8.2/1 so it won't be a slug off the bottom end. Another suggestion was to run the T04e 50/ T3 stg III. The map for the 50 seems almost like it was designed for the L series engines, but others have said that it does run out of breath at higher rpm's. Also i have read that other people have had reliability problems with Majestic turbos. Is there another reputable company that won't charge me an arm and a leg like Turbonetics or Jim Wolf? Any comments or opinions/ help is greatly appreciated! Thanks Aaron

I did a search, but that string did'nt come up. Anyway, I think the shop swapped the input flanges on the CV's. They have the long shaft with the short stub and vice-versa. It makes sense now of why they would only work the other way. Thanks for the help. Aaron

I recently had taken both CV shafts from my 280ZXT to have them overhauled. I removed them about 8 months ago and can't remember which side is what. I thought the shorter one goes on the left and the longer on the right. I do not have any suspension in the car, so I can't test it properly. Test fitting them in the diff ( 3.70 LSD) the short one( with the longer stub axle) only locks into the right side and the longer one( with the shorter stub axle) only locks into the left side. Is this correct? Did the shop swich the stub axles on the shafts? Does the shorter shaft go on the right? They'll fix it free of charge, but I have to drive an hour each way to pick them up. I know this is an idiotic question, as I should know this, but any help is appreciated! Thanks Aaron

I also am in on Jeff Priddy's DP buy, if it falls through, I would also be interested. Thanks Aaron

He's retired and lives in Seattle. I met him last year at Sea- Tac airport.

Thanks guys. I think I will keep the Z and just scale back how much I spend with it ( time and $$$). I work at night, but my wife comes home early enough where she always sees me with the Z, while I am supposed to be waching my son. I guess I did'nt think of the depreciation of the new car. It would be at least $5000 in the first year wich is the Z engine build money right there! Thanks for the reality check Any more opinions?

Well, I've been building on my car for a year now ( an 82na ZX being converted to a ZXT) I have all new or recovered black interior, I am almost ready to send the engine out for machining, basically I have ALOT of money tied up into this car and a basement piled full of good parts( LS 3.70 R200, intercooler, etc) when out of the blue my wife says " maybe you should get a new car." " You spend too much time with the car and not with the family."I have always been intruiged by the new Mustang Cobra. I know this sounds strange, as I have always looked at the Mustang croud as the Z's nemesis. I took a drive in the new Mustang and it was like " Holy S#*t! this thing is fast!" If it wasn't for the supercharger and the IRS, I wouldn't even consider it. My wife says get it, but the Z has to go. I love the Z, but that Mustang would be sweet! If I try to sell the parts I have accumulated over the years, I would most definitely lose my ass on the money I have spent. Anyway, I guess I am just trying to way my options at this point. Any opinions as to if I am being stupid to consider the Mustang, or if I should keep the Z are greatly appreciated.

I was just wondering if the two different cars have different components (besides CV shafts of course), such as different spring rates, sway bars, etc. I am currently gutting an 83 turbo to use the drivetrain in an 82 n/a and was wondering if I should keep the turbo suspension if it has better components and rebuild it ( it's shot) or use the n/a stuff ( its like new). Thanks Aaron

I am looking for a stand alone fuel computer for my 280ZXT, but am having a hard time justifying a $1500 price tag for most of the systems like SDS, Electromotive, etc. I was wondering if I built and used the Megasquirt computer to control the fuel side of the engine, could I use a recurved N/A dizzy with no vacuum advance that is controlled by an MSD 6BTM to retard the timing under boost? Does this sound like a viable system? The only thing I don't like is that I wouldn't have a knock sensor, but everything else would be there. The whole setup would cost around $500 including a coil and all the required sensors. I could spend the other $1000 on a new turbo. Is my logic sound, or does this sound like a bad idea? Should I just pony up the dough for an SDS? The more opinions I get the better!

Usually a greyish ash is a sign of lead in the gas. How old is the gas in the tank? What's the quality of your gas out that way? I would still suspect timing, though. Just my 2cents

Should I keep the coolant lines going to the air regulator, or will it work OK without them?

I recently finished porting my non EGR intake for a 60mm T/B for my 280ZXT. I am running the stock EFI and can't use the AAC valve with this manifold or the the Vacuum control modulator that controls it. Is it possible to still use the Air regulator without the AAC valve to raise the idle on cold start-up and have it work correctly w/o the water lines plumbed to it? Am I causing more grief for myself than its worth? I'm using this manifold purely for asthetics. Has anyone done this before? Any help is greatly appreciated

I was just wondering what the differences were on a T4/T3 hybrid turbo that has a stage I, stage III, and stage V turbine. I'm sure the flow is greater with the larger numbers, but is the spool slower, also? Are the wheels that much different? Is it worth it to have a stage V turbine on lets say a To4e 50, or is the stage III a better fit? I was looking for good top end flow, with minimal backpressure, but without horrible lag. Thanks

I have 2 of the "B's" and 4 of the "A's". They all flow the same. Hope this helps

Thanks for the help guys. I think I will stick with the 2.25 for ease of install . After I do all the mods to the engine ( later down the road), I was looking to top out @ around 400hp, anyway.