aarang

I think he means the CSV is the cold start injector. A hobbs switch is a pressure actuated contact switch. You can buy them pretty cheap in different pressure actuations and contact patterns ( normally closed or normally open contacts). A normally open switch set at 3psi would close the electrical contact at around 3psi to send power to and actuate the cold start injector for extra fuel. most of the hobbs switches have 1/8th NPT threaded ends for installation. Hope that helps Aaron

I know it would cost some money, but if you are using a .70 A/R comp housing maybe go down to a .60 A/R for a little smaller diameter. It might be just enough to get it to work. Aaron

Hey guys, I recently put a new Walbro fuel pump in my car (280ZXT)along with removing the charcoal canister. Upon installing the pump, I had to remove the vapor check valve that sits back above the diff. With no canister and the check valve installed, my fuel tank would pull alot of vacuum. With the check valve removed, all I get now is the stench of the tank venting fumes. I left the purge line installed that runs all the way to the front of the car, so the tank vents under the hood. Is there a better spot to vent the tank? I don't want these fumes to vent in a potentially dangerous spot ( like under the hood!!!). On a hot day, I can smell the gas fumes from five feet away from the car! I was thinking of putting a filter on the line to see if that helps any, or maybe cutting the purge line and bending it down to the bottom of the engine compartment. Any suggestions or tips would be great! Aaron

Hey AE2ZX, where in Washington are you?...

I need the chrome piece for the earlier 280ZX front bumper. LMK if you have it. Thanks Aaron

For my N/A 280zx, the tach received its signal from the Neg side of the coil (blue wire) through a resistor and to the tach. The tach receives its power from the ignition circuit. This is on a 1980 280zx. I think you may need the MSD tach adapter as the signal output from the MSD box could be different. Hope that helps Aaron

Could be a bad ignition module and/or coil. You could buy a GM Hei 4-pin module for $25 and replace the old IC module. I recently did this to my N/A 1980 280ZX when the module went bad. Cheap and works great!

I would get one of the Spearco 2-221 , treadstone, etc.,coolers or something to the same effect. Your tubing would be shorter and seeing how you have to somewhat modify the tubes for the new turbo anyway, you may as well do it all at once. My .02!!! Aaron

Hey Yasin, Would you be interested in selling your old stock turbo and injectors? PM me if interested. Thanks Aaron

I actually had the same problem with the rear of my 280ZXT with the MSA swaybars. It turns out when they manufactured them they didn't get the angle of the "tab" were the end link goes through correct. A heated phone call to MSA corrected the problem, as they sent me a new bar. Aaron

I've gotten a few systems done at Stans Headers. I don't think it will cost you more than $300 for aluminized steel. It's been a while, but one guy there does crappy work ( Stan's brother) and another younger guy there did really nice work. Aaron

On my N/A 280ZX I have the AIC valve, and cold start injector removed and it takes a while with my foot on the gas to get it warmed up. Once it warms up, it is fine. I think either the AIC or injector/thermotime switch in your case is not working. I wouldn't even bother with it. Just remove it and warm your car up yourself! It's just like the way carbs with no choke react when cold. Remember, think "I drive an older car with personality!!" Aaron

That airdam is exactly what a 280ZX needs, also!! Too bad MSA doesn't listen to their customers when asked to expand the lineup for body kits.

With a stock 280ZX (L28E) with no cat and a K&N filter I got about 22-25 mpg in regular driving. Thats an average of city and highway. I think if you are only getting 12mpg, you have a problem! Maybe the cat is plugged or the fuel pressure is out of wack. Check your timing. I bumped mine up to about 14 BTC and it helped some. Hope that helps! Aaron

A cheap and easy thing you may want to consider producing might be an external wastegate spacer to be used on the stock exhaust manifold. It would bolt on between the manifold and the turbo to allow the use of an external gate without having to weld on the stock manifold. A few members on this board have made these. You could offer it with any of the popular wastegate flanges. I priced the materials for this in stainless a while back and I think it came to about $60. Welding them together would take less than 10 mins each. You could probably sell them for about $100. Just a suggestion! Aaron

All of the P90/P90a's I have ever seen have the hole in there for some reason.

Wanna start selling those!!!???

3/4" ID hose

Those engines are definetly not the best out there. Just wait until you see the destruction from one of those compressors when it lets go, and it will let go! Also, like TonyD said, The cylinders on that ( and many other turbo/supercharged Lycs) have a tendency to "pop" the mounting studs for the cylinders, letting all kinds of fury loose! There is a reason those engines are burgeoning in the schools. Just my .02 *Also on another note, if you are currently in A&P school, take everything your instructors tell you with a grain of salt. IMO it seems they teach things a certain way to cover their behinds when the FAA comes around. I have been in the A/C industry going on 15 years and have seen alot! Aaron

I thought that car was for sale a few weeks ago for $9000??!!

Hey pjo046, what size is the flapper door on that internal W/G setup? I've been looking to get one of those for a different project, but can't seem to get any info on it. Thanks Aaron

The 3.90 R200 is about the most plentifull one out there.

Any chance of a "BRE" style rear spoiler to fit 280ZXs'?

Someone actually paid a shop to do that??

I think in Portland, if you have your blinker on, it means you have the right to change lanes or merge at will without looking!! Especially while talking on the phone and/or doing makeup! Also, what does the flashing green light at signals mean in Vancouver B.C.? The best I understand it as it's OK to turn or merge?