aarang

Measured the head thickness using dial calipers in various places I got 4.245". I don't know if this amount would radically alter my timing chain slack, I tend to doubt it.

I'll try to measure the head today and see what I get. When I put the cam sprocket on #2, the timing mark on the cam was exactly where it should be, off to the side of the notch, so I didn't think about it too much until the tensioner problem. How much tension can I put on the chain on the slack side? I always thought you just wanted it to "guide" the chain, not actually put tension on it.

I did elongate the holes in the slack side guide to try get the best overall curve, etc. every combination I try doesn't seem to do any good. I don't think I want to get into shimming the cam towers as the head and block haven't been radically altered. The engine was a low mile F54/P90 that wasn't molested, I just had the head and block resurfaced which was only a couple thou's off of each. I don't think the 1mm HG would alter it that much as I have used them before with no probs. I think for safeties sake I will just get a genuine Nissan timing set. Does Courtesy Nisssan have the best price on these, or does anyone know where I can get a good deal? Thanks Aaron

Just wondering guys, I was putting a new engine together and am having a problem pop up that I haven't seen before. I have put numerous timing chains on L6's, so it is not a new procedure for me. I have the straight and curved guide installed and put the tensioner on. With a smooth transition on the slack side guide and the slack in the chain removed, the plunger on the tensioner has about 1/4" of piston exposed! I Know of the minimum of plunger exposure, but can't seem to find the maximum allowable. The head and block maybe have a couple thou's removed between the two and I am using the HKS 1mm HG. Seeing how my deck height isn't radically changed and the timing marks ( set it on #2 hole) line up where they should, what do you think the problem is? Am I missing something?? Also this is an aftermarket timing set I got through Vic Brit. Should I fork out the cash for genuine Nissan? If someone could point me in the right direction, it would be much appreciated! Thanks in advance Aaron

I had the ACT carbon kevlar ( stgII I think?) clutch and Fidanza flywheel in my ZXT before taking it off the road for a while . I liked it because it held the torque and was easy to drive ( no chatter!!) Actually I think the pedal pressure was LESS than stock. Aaron

I've owned eight 240Z's and am on my fourth 280ZX. I loved all my cars, but for some reason I lean towards the 280ZX now. Maybe because for me atleast the 240Z seems to be getting more and more expensive to buy nowadays. Having bought really nice 240's for $1500 10-15 years ago, it is hard to justify paying 5-10K for one now and then put another 10k into it. I had a chance to buy back a 240z that I had prevoiusly owned a few months back. I drove the snot out of the car for about an hour or so, returned the car, and a few days later decided it was not what I wanted anymore!! Strange! Oh, anyway I think all Z's are Z's, not just 240's! Beauty is in the eye of the beholder, right? My .02! Aaron

I really like the airdam on the black car in the last pic. Does Foxton make that as well?

Look at the top pic. If you look close enough on the tire it looks like it says P225/50R15.Correct me if I am wrong. For a tire of that width and profile to be streched on the lip and sidewall, I would say that those are 15X7 or possibly 15X8 which would be even better. I would offer $50 a wheel. Just my .02!

You have a PM

I've done the auto to manual swap before ( a long time ago!) I had access to a parts car, which made it easy. I might know where you can pick up a manual rusted out parts car for cheap In Olympia, WA. You could also contact Danny's Datsuns in Southern Oregon. He probably will have all the parts. IMO, it is still way easier to have the parts car sitting right next to you when you do the swap. LMK if you need any help. Aaron

The motor was an Allison 250, mostly used in helicopters.

Send them a sample piston. That way if they screw it up, it is their fault and you won't be stuck with pistons you can't use!

Hey blairjj, what part number from timesert did you use?

Correct me if I am wrong, but I do believe the early fox body Mustang with the 4 bolt pattern is 4 x 4.25, not 4 x 4.5

I'm in the process of doing this right now. I think the swap to the n/a car is well worth it. While your at it, do a Megasquirt conversion, also! If you try to use the Turbo AFM in the n/a car, the mount bracket is different. Aaron

I had the same exact problem with my 83 Turbo. It turned out to be the Cylinder head temp sensor. It's on the passenger side of the head around the #5 cyl. All I did was disconnect the plug, stick a jumper wire in it ( the plug)and took it for a drive. It was hard to start like that, but it did run for over 45mins on the road and at idle. Replaced the sensor, plugged it in, and all was good! Hope that helps Aaron

Sorry guys ....Bump.... again Hey Frank280ZX, sent you another PM. Would it be easier to just email you directly about the bumpers? Thanks Aaron

I'm going up this weekend to "look" at the car. I'll see if I can get it for $3500, but probably not. I'll let you guys know how it goes! Aaron

I know what people are thinking when they look at the title of this post, this isn't the same old comparo, though! Here is my dilemma. About five years ago I had a pretty nice solid nearly rust free 72 240Z with the typical mods, 5-spd, L28, Triples, etc. It had near perfect interior and an original non-cracked dash. All it really needed was paint. I had to sell it and all its extra parts to put money down on a house. This car had alot of sentimental value, so it was hard to part with it. After a while I got a 280ZXT, modded it for a while, got another 280ZXT, and again another, My current car. I have mucho dinero into the drive train, but again, the car needs paint. It is practically rust free. The car has not been on the road for about 1.5 years or so. It gets frustrating working on a car you cannot drive! My family and job take priority at the moment, so time for the car is scarce. Here is the kicker! I get a letter in the mail from the guy who bought my 240 5 years previous. Included in the letter is a picture of the car! It had been repainted( He was a body man) , but virtually everything else on the car was the way I left it! He wants to sell it back to me for about $3700, which is what I sold it to him for! I think this car is worth more now, as the days of buying $2500 nice 240's are over. My wife says get it, but I do like my 280ZXT, but can't have both cars, unfortunately. I have the money, so I could buy it and just sell the 280ZXT project. I could also put the turbo drivetrain into the 240, but those Webbers sure made cool noises! I just can't make up my mind, and the guy is not going to wait forever. I don't know what to do! Help, help,help! Aaron

.....Bump.... Hey Frank280ZX, just wondering if you got my PM's regarding the bumpers. Thanks Aaron

I bought a "special" Toyota pickup last year and waited 6 months to get it. I had to talk to no less than SEVEN, yes seven dealers to get me what I wanted for the price I wanted. It seems Toyota thinks their cars are gold plated. I would get the Mazda.

I would be interested in it. I am two states away, but I have bought CA cars before and driven them back. It would be garaged and well taken care of the rest of its life. Believe me, I know how hard it is to see a car with sentimental value drive away. PM me with price, pics, etc. ( The link in your post doesn't work) Thanks Aaron

Hello Frank, Just wondering if you have any info on shipping these and the price you would want for say 3 sets of front/rear bumpers and mounts. Of course I would be paying for shipping and crating. I have contacted a few shipping companies about this, but they seem to only have info on containers, not what I wanted to do $$$$. What port are you located near? It might make my search for a shipping company easier. Anyone else have any shipping companies they have used in the past for crated items? Thanks Aaron

Hey Frank, So if I wanted a complete set of front and rear bumpers, covers and mounts how would you like to go about exchanging funds and shipping. I would like the compleste front and rear instead of just the rubber and mounts, just in case there is any problems with mounting them to a US facebar. I don't know if crating them up and sending it via ship would be cheaper than sending say by UPS. I work at a company that has a loading dock and lift truck, so I think it would be less than sending it to my house. I am not in any big hurry, so if it takes a month or two to get here, that is alright. I appreciate you doing this BTW. Maybe if others are interested in these, I could get a few sets. A "group buy",perhaps? Aaron

I am serious about getting a set. The bumpers are probably not that expensive, it is the shipping cost that would be alot. I can and will pay to have them shipped to the US. Frank, are the bumpers you have in good shape, meaning no rust on the chrome, and the rubber isn't faded? I am interested if you have a set. I think I would also need the shock mounts as the bumpers I have seen seem to sit closer to the body than the US versions. Another option I think would be just to get the rubber part and the shock mounts front and rear, would be alot less to ship them. LMK what you think, thanks Aaron