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jacob80

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Posts posted by jacob80

    Have I damaged my motor!? :(

    in Nissan L6 Forum

    Posted

    Check all of you intake connections. When it wasn't running right it sounded like a intake leak.

     

    I doesn't sound all that good. I am assuming it's a stock cam right? It should pur like a kitten. Did you calibrate your timing? I'd set you idle timing to 30 deg or so, it will smooth the idle right out.

     

    30 degrees? Really? Maybe I'll try that! I'm at like...15 now, is that bad? What is stock advance? 30 just seems pretty extreme for idle, but maybe not. Thanks!

    Have I damaged my motor!? :(

    in Nissan L6 Forum

    Posted

    Ok guys, major update,

     

     

    ...it runs! Very odd circumstances with this one. I tossed and turned for two hours last night beside myself about driving the car without a 100% tune! :lol:

     

    When I got home, I popped my radiator cap off and it was green as grass, good sign!

     

    Next, I checked my plugs again, compression, and timing. All looked good!

     

    This was very odd I thought, but I'll go with it. Hopped in the car and tried to start it, did the same thing. Crap.

     

    Went over to the computer, reflashed my MSQ and tried it again. Same thing happened. At this point, I wasn't sure what to do. I grabbed my video camera and made this video:

     

     

    Self explanitory :P

     

    I'm just thanking god that I didn't grenade the motor, ahhh so relieving!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

     

    And yes, I did say I was checking the oil and popping off the radiator cap, ahahahahaha!

    Have I damaged my motor!? :(

    in Nissan L6 Forum

    Posted · Edited by jacob80

    Make sure you have fuel pressure before going crazy with the tune. Setting up a tune with a clogged fuel filter of fuel lines will spell disaster later on. Not to mention you will pull your hair out trying to figure out why the AFR's won't settle.

     

    joe

     

    Definitely! That is something I was looking at last night and the gauge on the rail is measuring a normal 37 PSI, but of course I'm second guessing myself. My brother once had issues with his 240sx running like absolute ****...then he realized he was out of gas! :lol:

     

    Just to make me feel better, if I don't hear any knocking, see any plooms of smoke, or have any oil on my spark plugs, and my compression is good on all cylinders, could I almost conclude that I have sustained no terminal damage? If I had some serious damage, wouldn't I hear a knock or something of the sort? I'm really hoping its just a bad fuse or fouled plug or SOMETHING. I'm just driving myself nuts today thinking about it, just hope someone has a good idea of what it could be.

     

    When I get home I'm going to check my compression on all cylinders, like I said. I'm also going to bring all the pistons up and shine a light through the spark plug hole and see if I see any damage or oil on the pistons. Then, I'll check all my vacuum lines and intake manifold in general and see if when it back fired it just didn't pop something off. This has happened to me before when I went to start the car, there was some sort of back fire through the intake and some smoke came out and blew my vacuum lines off! Very odd.

     

    Hopefully this ends up to be something silly because I plan on attending the Branson Z Fest in about a month (as many of you probably already know). Once again, thanks for all your help guys, I don't know where I would be without ya!

    Have I damaged my motor!? :(

    in Nissan L6 Forum

    Posted

    -If you blew a HG you will smoke white and overheat

    -To be sure CHECK ALL cylinders and do a leakdown on it

    -If you blew a hole in piston you will smoke BLUE (i.e. Oil) and your vents will bollow smoke

    -It sounds like an electrical issue

     

    What are you running in the car engine management whise? MsS i think (from your sig) i think you fried something else in the MsS

     

    Yeah I'll definitly do a compression check of all cylinders this evening. This morning, I went ot and tried to start it again, which it sid, but it just doesn't want to stay running. I've experienced no smoke so that's a good sign. Yes, I am running megasquirt and spark, but what could I have fried? It almost seems like I have a really bad vacuum leak, but j checked my lines and none appear as though they've popped off, but who knows. It very well seems like an electrical issue, but I'm not sure where to start. What could I have potentially screwed up? Perhaps I popped a fuse? Thanks for your help!

    Have I damaged my motor!? :(

    in Nissan L6 Forum

    Posted

    Hey guys,

     

    Well tonight I was giving my brother a ride in my 240z with an L28ET and had a little mishap. My tune isn't 100% and theres a spot where it cuts out, but at any rate, at some point, I think I hit that point and then a small backfire IIRC and then it died.

     

    That was odd, but I started it and it started just fine, but when I went to rev it, the O2 gauge just went completely lean and died. I started the car again and it idles fine, but when I touch the gas, it hates me. This scared me, but I was hoping it was just a fouled plug. We proceeded to push the car 1/2 mile back home to do some diagnosis.

     

    Came home, and pulled the plugs. I was scared that I either A) Blew a head gasket, B) Blew a hole in the piston or C) blew a valve stem seal, if that is possible. I cleaned the plugs and compression checked 3 out of the 6 cylinders, and they all checked out fie (~140 PSI). I also checked to see if any of my vacuum lines or intercooler piping blew off, but a I saw nothing. Went ahead and tried it again and the same symptoms occurred.

     

    Right now I am absolutely distraught and am regretting driving the car without a 100% reliable tune. I know I shouldn't have, but what is done is done. What is the next step? I plan on going back and confirming that all cylinders are up to ~140 PSI, but then what?

     

    I hear no knocking or anything terminal of that sort, just doesn't want to rev.

     

    Thanks for your help guys!!

    Drivetrain Clunking...I'm going to need some help.

    in Drivetrain

    Posted · Edited by jacob80

    Just another thought.

     

    I've come to the conclusion that the clunk that was evident prior to installing my new drivetrain components is the EXACT same clunk that was occurring before. The only thing that I can even possibly think of that I didn't replace is the transmission insulator.

     

    Could this be the culprit that is causing my clunk? I kid you not, the sound is identical, I was so disappointed when I pulled out of the driveway for the first time to hear that clunk! :(

     

    I haven't heard anyone suggest the transmission insulator, but its the last thing I can think of other than the differential back lash. From there, I would have to go so far as to say the transmission is the problem SOMEHOW. Ugh I just wish I could get rid of this sound! Ahhh!! :beatdeadh:banghead::malebitch:icon13::fmad::cuss::cry2::bonk:

     

    EDIT: There is one last thing that may or may not be a factor. We did have our stock 4 speed rebuilt, which is what is being used as our transmission, and even since we've had it rebuilt, if you don't shift into first and then reverse, it will grind if you go directly to reverse. Perhaps this could be a factor?

    Metallic flakes in Oil

    in Nissan L6 Forum

    Posted

    Hey guys,

     

    Well I've just dropped my oil pan to change my gasket and wanted to check my pan for metal shaving.

     

    I did make a discovery, but perhaps this is negligible. As I wiped my finger across the bottom of the pan oil and examined it very closely with a shop light, I could see these very, very, very small metallic chips, almost like the metallic in paint, but probably not even that much. Nothing I could feel, just metallic.

     

    Is this something to be worried about? The motor was just rebuild probably not even 1000 miles ago. Could this just be from the rings and bearing being broken in?

     

    Thanks!

    Drivetrain Clunking...I'm going to need some help.

    in Drivetrain

    Posted

    It doesn't seem excessive to me, but I'm not an expert. My car has a bit of slop in the tranny and the diff, and that adds up to almost an inch or so of movement on the tires/ground. I think my car has at least that much slop and it hardly ever produces a clunk now. Did you try that with the car on the ground? The extra weight of the car would/should help reproduce the culprit.

     

    Cheers

    Ryan~

     

    I did, but I need to do it again because I was laying under the car pushing it myself (if that makes sense). I guess my question while does this test again is; what exactly am I looking for? I know that if the differential rocks around then it has to do something with either my Ron Tyler Mount or the mustache bar nuts. But, at least from what I saw last time, it looks like the driveshaft is just turning along with the wheels and all that when I rocked it back and forth. It didn't look like anything was necessarily loose, does that make sense? Just looked like movement in the driveshaft/pinion back lash/transmission?

     

    I'm so lost :(

    Oil Pan Gasket

    in Nissan L6 Forum

    Posted

    I think that sounds like a plan. You've tried just about everything else it seems! Not sure if I'd let the glue setup overnight though - I've been under the notion that you just want it to sit long enough so it will skin over and harden slightly, then install the pan and hand tighten. THEN let it sit overnight and torque the next day. Just want to eliminate ANY possibility that there is any chance the glue could harden completely, and then there's a small little pinhole b/t the pan and gasket that didn't seal properly without having any pressure on it to at least squeeze out any air pockets and seal entirely. That'd be my only worry. Got my fingers, toes, and eyes crossed for ya man!

     

    Yeah, you're probably right. I only proposed letting it sit overnight because I don't want all the adhesive mushing out the sides of the gasket since it'll still be gooey. But, like you said, may I'll 1) Apply the adhesive and lay on the gasket. 2) Immediately set the pan on the block, but don't hand tighten. This will let it get positioned. 3) After a half hour, hand tighten the sucker and let it sit overnight. 4) Torque the bolts to 7-10 ft. lbs the next day.

     

    One more question: After running the car, should I wait for it to cool completely before retorquing, or retorque while it is still hot?

     

    Thanks!!!!!!!!

    Oil Pan Gasket

    in Nissan L6 Forum

    Posted

    Well - again, I don't know what Nissan uses "exactly" per-se, but when I pulled an original valve cover - it sure did look like weatherstrip adhesive. I understand your hesitancy to use an unproven adhesive, being that you've done this a number of times and don't want to do it again (can't blame ya there) - so take it with a grain of salt. I'm just advising on what I've seen. I can tell you're extremely gun-shy about doing this (again) - so only you can make the decision. I'll do a little voodoo dance over here to make that sucker seal!!

     

    HA! Yeah, after dropping the pan now twice and installing one on the initial build while out of the car, I think you, too would be gun shy. Its just frustrating because last time, I took someone's advice by using gray Permatex ultra and it just didn't work. Granted I do feel much safer with 3M stuff, but maybe its just me not doing something right. This time, I'll make sure its done right. I'm going to clean the hell out of everything with brake cleaner, hammer down the ant hills, clean again, double check cleanliness (LOL), glue the gasket to the pan, put the pan up, tighten the bolts hand-tight, let it sit overnight, then tighten them 7-10 ft lbs the next day. Hopefully, this will work. What do you think?

    Oil Pan Gasket

    in Nissan L6 Forum

    Posted

    That's why you take to the pan surface with a ball peen hammer to "make" it more consistent. Not sure about oil pan gaskets (but I would assume the same holds true) - but the factory actually uses a type of weatherstripping adhesive to glue the valve cover gasket on. 3M weatherstripping adhesive is some pretty good stuff. Get the black stuff though - the gorilla snot isn't the best.

     

    All I'm saying about the surfaces is that I can see why you would only glue on the pan side of the gasket. Yes, I agree that taking a ball peen hammer and hammering down the ant hills is a great idea, which I will be doing.

     

    Is the 3M adhesive going to stand up to the heat? What about it's resistance to oil? I'm sure it works wonders when applied to actual weather strip used for sealing water, but is this adhesive appropriate for this application?

    Connecting stock hard lines to AN hoses

    in Fuel Delivery

    Posted

    The fitting attaches to the tube with a compression fitting, the gold(brass) piece slides over the tube and crushes down of it when you tighten the nut. You'll have to cut the flare off the stock line to get it to work.

     

    To convert 5/16 to -6 (3/8, or 6/16) you'll need a -5 to -6 adapter.

     

    The last time I did something like this, I used a tube nut with a sleeve and flared the stock line, it's much more of a pain.

     

    I guess I'm a little confused here.

     

    Looking at this item, it looks like I would but off the flared end on my stock lines and attach this, which is said to convert from a 5/16" tube to a -6 AN, I'm just a little confused about why I would need a -5 AN to -6 AN adapter. Link:

     

    http://www.summitracing.com/parts/EAR-165056ERL/

     

     

    Are both the line on the drive and passenger side 5/16"? If I ordered two of these adapters (http://www.summitracing.com/parts/EAR-165056ERL/), could I just cut off the ends of the two lines and install these?

     

    Keep in mind, I will not be using the little puny 1/4" EVAP line.

    Oil Pan Gasket

    in Nissan L6 Forum

    Posted

    As soon as a start putting on sealants, I start to feel much less confident that it will seal. Don't get me wrong, I want the thing to seal, but I just don't have time to pull it back off a third time as I am trying to work out other things for the Branson Z fest. I agree that gluing the gasket to the pan is a good idea; the surface of the pan is much more inconsistent that the block surface.

     

    Specifically, what "glue" have you had success with? (not just weather stripping glue, be specific)

     

    Thanks for your help!

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