jacob80
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Posts posted by jacob80
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That looks to be what I need. I do know that the end of the lines are flared on the car, so how would the fitting fit over this flare? What is the small gold piece?
EDIT:
I do know my 1973 has three hard lines running to the engine bay as well; there is two that run to the passenger side and one that runs to the drive side. Right now, I am using the original feed line on the passenger side to feed to my little surge tank and the line on the driver side to return to the gas tank. I believe that the two lines I am using are both 5/16" diameter (or 7.9375 millimeters). I would like these both to be converted to -6 AN hose size in the engine bay.
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Guys,
I read that the copper washer is used to prevent the metallic grinding sound in later 240z's. However, I installed 280z 27 spline stub axles, and the copper washer would not fit over the splines. I installed the stub axles without, and the sound isn't going to bother me, just as long as no potential damage is done.
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Hey guys,
I'm at the point where I want to convert all our rubber black hoses (yuck!) to AN lines to run fuel to our surge tank, though the fuel rail, and return it to the tank. IIRC, the stock feed line is 5/16 and I'm not sure about the return. We are using the stock feed line to feed, and we are using the other line on the drive side to return. Do you guys know the sizes of these hard lines? I'm looking at these piece, which would be perfect, except for the face that (IIRC) the stock line is 5/16 and the return is even smaller.
http://www.jegs.com/p/JEGS/JEGS-Hard-Line-AN-Adapter-Fittings/756885/10002/-1
What have you guys done? Any help is appreciated, thank you!
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I am running the ron tyler mount, VLSD R200, AZC mustache and brace. I'm going to try this tonight and get back to you guy.
Say, perhaps, I do this and all the movement is in the driveshaft/transmission? What then? The transmission was just rebuilt, also.
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Okay, so whats the general consensus? I'm looking to go HID, but seems to be quite the argument in this thread as far as what to get. I want the headlights to look stock, but be good quality. I have a friend that had HID lights from eBay and they lasted two years with no problems! (He sold the car recently). Let me know what you guys think is the best combonation, links to the products would be appreciated, thanks!!!!
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I would think that it would be solid by now, after everything I've done, but I guess not. The EXACT same sound was present before installing everything, so maybe it the transmission, at this point I'm just lost. I guess I won't worry about that noise for now. How about the sound that the rear end is making, should I be concerned???
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Hah great! So that slop is most likely the source of my clunk? More importantly, is it a problem? I wouldn't think that parts clunking around and banging into eachother is necessarily healthy
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Okay, well it doesn't look as though anyone has much input for me at the moment, so I'll check a couple things.
1. I'll ensure that my driveshaft bolts are tight on all four corners.
2. I'll double check that my differential mount is solid, as well.
I would like to do a test and want you guys to tell me what you think. I was thinking about putting the rear of the car up on jack stands so that the wheels will spin freely, and while I lay under the car and watch for any kind of movement within the drivetrain, I'll have someone sit in the car and go through the gears with the clutch disengaged.
I would do this test because when I am simply rolling down the street with clutch disengaged, I can go through the gears and everytime I shift into a different gear, a CLUNK will occur. Could I rule out the fact that my differential mount may be loose, or not yet?
THANKS!!!
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Yes, the motor is being completely rebuilt and my goal is to make a solid 400whp for frequent driving via HY35.
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Another thing, there is a little play in the differential, but I was told this was normal by the individual that i bought it from (Dsommer). Is this true? Also, should my rear differential be making any noise at all? I am hearing a kind of noise that sounds like gears meshing and sounds like a small air leak and slowly subsides as I slow my roll. Thanks!
EDIT: I did a little reading about back lash, so I suppose this play is normal?
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One U joint had very very minimal play, almost completely unnoticed unless you were looking for it, but it was there. Would this really cause a clunking/shock through the drivetrain? I'm kind of headed in the same direction here, as well.
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Hey guys,
1973 240z
Well, it seems as though my attempt to fix my clunk has taken me nowhere (as of now).
These past few weeks, I have been working my butt off on this damn car. First of all, we had new floor pans put in and I repainted the entire underbody.
Following this, I bought Z31 turbo CV axles, an R200 viscous LSD, R200 280z input flange so I could bolt up my stock driveshaft, modern motorsports CV adapter, 280z 27 spline stub axles, finned differential cover, Arizona Z car solid mustache bar and finned cover brace/uprights, and last but definitely not least, a Ron Tyler differential mount (phew!). With all of this, I thought I would have a completely solid rear end with zero clunking issues...WRONG. Previously, with the completely stock setup (R180, '73 240z), we had clunking. After installation of all these new parts, the exact same clunking has consistantly comes back.
As of now, my only thought would be the transmission mount, but I'm confused as to why it would transmit noise all the way to the rear end.
A couple things that happens are:
1) When the car is rolling and disengaging the clutch, I will cycle threw various gears and every time I hit a different gear, I sound is transmitted through the drivetrain, like something is loose.
2) When letting on and off the throttle completely, a clunk will result.
3) When shifting gears, the clunk is trasmitted through the drivetrain.
As of right now, I'm not sure what to do, other than double check my transmission mount. Any help is appreciated here guys, I'm just not sure what else I can even do at this point. Thanks!!!
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Just to confirm, just slip the copper washer over the stub axle before installing the companion flange onto the splines, correct??
I read the thread, but I created this post to be sure. Thanks.
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Well - I'm surprised that noone chimed in with this little tidbit.
If you look at the mating surface of the pan where the bolts go through - 9 times out of 10 (and usually 9 bolts out of 10) you will see where the pan lip is bent upward from the bolts pulling tight. With the pan on a flat surface, and a piece of 2x4 on the backside of the pan lip for creating a flat surface, take the ball end of a ball peen hammer and hammer the middle of the bolt holes on the pan so that they are concave instead of convex. This will allow your gasket to a) seat better with any RTV you may use, and
when you torque up the pan, it's going to (eventually) pull back towards its' original shape - hopefully it will be flat(er) than it was with the bolt holes all stretched. If you run your hand across the topside of the pan lip - I bet you'll feel at each bolt hole, there is a "rise" - smack that rise down so that the pan is flat, or better yet, a bit concave, so when you run your hand across the lip of the pan - you'll feel a little "dip" where the bolt holes are. Does this make sense? I can provide a pic later if need be. Works "almost" every time. (I won't say "every" because Tony D might come down on me!)
You know, I actually did pay attention to this but apparently not well enough!
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My thought is that my timing may be too retarded. This isn't a "step on the gas" situation. This is simply me sitting in first gear and slowly and very steadily increasing RPMs and then right around this specific RPM range, it hesitates. No popping or backfiring, just stuttering. Alternatively, when I accelerate more aggresively, I blow by that RPM all the way up to 6800 RPM with no problemo. Perhaps I should advance my timing a little?
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Hey guys,
Well I have come across the copper washers that fit somewhere within the stub axle assembly. I've read that it reduces the metallic scraping sound or something of the sort in later 240z's. My question is:
I have modern motorsports CV adapters, but where will this copper washer install? Does it go in the order:
Lock Nut>Washer>Adapter/Companion flange>Copper washer?
Does the copper washer fit over the spines of the stub axle? Thanks!!
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Tony,
I've always wondered that too, I guess I just applied it to the common term these "pivots" are know as 'round here.
I'd like to here your freeze plug and irregardless rants -
I voted L28ET. This is totally personal preference, but there is something about swapping a non-Nissan motor that just bugs the hell outta me! It may as well not be a Z car, you know? Personally, I like the fact that you can throw an L28ET in a 240z and run with the modern motors of today and still keep that nostalgic inline L motor in the car. This is off topic, but I just saw a Viper roll up to an intersection outside the window of my work. Anyways, another thing I like about the swap is that so many parts are interchangeable between the L series motor, its great! It is true the LS motors are the best bang for your buck...but why!? Obviously the guys that do it are looking at power to weight ratio, but man, what a slap in the face to Nissan! Just my opinion
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Yes, i do have the rear bars installed. The ones that distribute the torque load across the back. The funny thing is, is that about two months ago I replaced this gasket because it was leaking all over in the back, so I had a bung welded on and had the pan powder coated. Now, the back is absolutely SPOTLESS and instead, the pan is leaking on the passenger side. I noticed this because the corssmember was soaked in oil from the top and some had pooled in the little hold-downs for the rack. Just a real pain in the ass, hopefully I can get it right this time. I'm just going to pull the damn thing off, make sure its straight, clean the hell out of everything (including the bolt holes), use a Permatex silicon sealant on the pan surface, set the gasket on, put some silicon on the block surface, put the pan on and get the bolts hand tight, let it sit overnight, then torque them in proper order tomorrow. If this doesn't work, I'm not sure what will. My only other idea would to be to go strictly to a silicon sealant and not use a gasket.
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And to think I have a '83 P90A sitting in my garage, on a shelf, with solid lifters.
Nice find though jacob. Mind me asking how much you paid? Head, or whole engine?
$350 for the whole engine (L28ET of course). Turbo looked like somebody took a pair of pliers and just went at the wheel, just to make it useless for the next guy. I was able to turn the motor by hand, if that means anything. I thought it was a great deal!
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Hmm..so many options! I had to laugh tonight because earlier in the week, I retorqued the bolts at 7 ft. lbs and I've had the car on rear jack stands and I walk in there tonight and there is a HUGE puddle of oil, about the width of the underside of the car. I could only point and laugh! I must have done something really screwy. Also, I just installed my rear diff. cover and its already leaking, only had fluid in it for four days, just my luck.
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The cork gasket is most likely the reason it's leaking. Use a rubber gasket, a bead of clear silicone (RTV silicone breaks down and will usually end up in your oil or clogging your oil pickup) all the way around the oil pan surface and crank down those bolts until they are nice and tight, 7 ft-lbs is not enough to seal an oil pan.
I torqued them to whatever the factory spec. calls for, and I'm not sure that cranking down on the bolts is a good idea at all. Cranking down on the bolts is probably what causes the dimpled surface from the bolts pulling too hard.
Also, now that I think about it, the Permatex High Tack stuff doesn't really prefer oil pan gaskets like some of their other products. The Permatex Ultra seems to be used more commonly for a rubber oil pan gasket with a temperature range of -65 to 400 fahrenheit while the Permatex No. 2 just states its for oil pan gaskets and temperature range of -65 to 400 fahrenheit. I will be using a FelPro gasket, so if its rubber I'll use the grey and if not, I'll use the No. 2. Does this sound like a good plan?
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Okay, thanks. Do you know the Nissan part number?
when you torque up the pan, it's going to (eventually) pull back towards its' original shape - hopefully it will be flat(er) than it was with the bolt holes all stretched. 
I'd like to here your freeze plug and irregardless rants 
Oil Pan Gasket
in Nissan L6 Forum
Posted
Well I just got off the phone with Rebello racing and they said they use a Nissan gasket and put it on dry after pounding out the ant hills. I'm actually using a Fel Pro gasket this time around, so hopefully this technique will be successful opposed to my last time around in which I used grey Permatex. When I pull the gasket off the pan, there was no resistance at all, the oil seemed to have blown right through it. I knew I shouldn't have used sealant, grrrr!
I'll let you guys know how it comes out.
Also, what are you guys torquing your gasket bolts to? I think the OEM spec. is 7 ft. lbs but correct me if I'm wrong here.