jacob80
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Posts posted by jacob80
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Looking for a input yoke so I can bolt my stock 240z driveshaft up to my R200 CLSD. Thanks.
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I agree with Jacob, there's definitely a difference in the 240 dashes v. 280z. The 'eyebrows' over the tach/speedo are much stubbier. I like the 240 dash better.
Yes! I love how the gauge cluster has that pointier look in the 240z. And no, I do know what the 280zx dash looks like, and I hate it! I have one uncracked 240z dash in my '72 but the '73's dash is cracked
Solution: Give it an armor all bath! I literally soaked the dash surface to prevent any cracking in the good one. -
Hey,
Well I have come to the realization that it is going to be an uphill battle trying to get ahold of Ross at Modern Motorsports. Unfortunately, he holds the key for me to finish my rear end conversion. As far as I know, he is the only one that produces these Z31 Turbo CV shaft adapters that all you to bolt up the 280Z 27 spline count stub axles to the Z31 CV shafts. My question is, is there something I am missing here, or does NOBODY else produce one of these pieces? This seems to be the strongest setup to go with on the S30s, yet I have only seen Ross offer these. Would it be hard for someone to make a couple of these locally, perhaps a large batch for HybridZ members? Perhaps somebody could take down some measurements and a member could talk to their local machine shop about producing these and sell them here. Just a thought, but I know there has been a lot of complaints as far as Modern Motorsports customer service goes. Thanks guys!
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Hey guys,
Just looking for these as an upgrade for my 240z. I would also need the nuts, as well, but if you don't have them, that is fine too. Thanks!
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New pistons and rings - $7.00, HA!
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Yuck! I wouldn't touch that thing with a ten foot pole!
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Nice choice. I will be going with the same option down the road sometime.
I've been trying to get a hold of Ross for over a month now (you'd think that someone who's receiving almost a thousand dollars for two items I'm trying to order would be on the ball a little better). Unfortunately I can't find who he gets his parts made by and I'm stuck twiddling my thumbs until he decides to reply. I understand a busy man, but a five minute phone call won't throw the galaxy out of order.
You can find the companion flange on your car (if you can wait that long.. haha) or a junkyard!
280 stub axles are as common as 280 parts cars!
Ok, I'm going to sound really n00bish right now, but is the companion flange the flange that your driveshaft flange bolts up to (wow, thats a lot of flange!)? If so, how does it come out? Gosh, I really hope I can get a response out of this guy. Does anybody know any alternative to this fellow? Perhaps dimensions? Thanks!
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Hey fellas, just a couple questions here:
1. I want to seize the clunking noise once and for all, so I have purchased a Z31 CLSD and CV axles, and four extra clutches as an upgrade from only two. I will also be purchasing the AZC mustache bar and bracket to enable me to use the finned cover in my S30. This is my only potential dilemma: how long should I expect to wait on Ross to get back to me so that I can get these:
http://www.modern-motorsports.com/catalog/product_info.php?cPath=32_53&products_id=56
2. Also, it says that I must supply a companion flange. Where can I get these?
3. Are 280z stub axles hard to come by? I haven't seen many around. Are there alternatives? It looks like Modern Motorsports makes a billet set, but are they worth it? I am running 4 lug wheels.
4. And lastly, is it still possible to get my hands on a Ron Tyler differential mount?
Thanks guys! If you think of anything else I am missing, please give your input!
MODS: Please delete this thread that is posted over in drivetrain, thanks!!
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Hey fellas, just a couple questions here:
1. I want to seize the clunking noise once and for all, so I have purchased a Z31 CLSD and CV axles, and four extra clutches as an upgrade from only two. I will also be purchasing the AZC mustache bar and bracket to enable me to use the finned cover in my S30. This is my only potential dilemma: how long should I expect to wait on Ross to get back to me so that I can get these:
http://www.modern-motorsports.com/catalog/product_info.php?cPath=32_53&products_id=56
2. Also, it says that I must supply a companion flange. Where can I get these?
3. Are 280z stub axles hard to come by? I haven't seen many around. Are there alternatives? It looks like Modern Motorsports makes a billet set, but are they worth it? I am running 4 lug wheels.
4. And lastly, is it still possible to get my hands on a Ron Tyler differential mount?
Thanks guys! If you think of anything else I am missing, please give your input!
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Hey guys,
Its always been a gray area as to why the dashes from '69-'73 (maybe '74?) changed? Personally, I absolutely LOVE the 240z dash lines, the 280z dash looks a little more flat, boxier, and boring in my opinion. Perhaps you guys have a little more input on this? Just a random thought
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Hey fellas,
I've been browsing this sub-forum in search of a good LSD unit for my application. I am building a 400hp L28ET for autocross/street/very occassional road course driving. I will not be going much over 400hp if any. I've discovered that the R200 from the 300zx SS is nearly impossible to come by, and the OBX unit to put in an R200 requires some pretty serious modification, so what would be the best differential for my application? Thanks guys!
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I almost have all the old undercoating stripped off my Z and am about to start applying Rustbullet. I've decided to coat it with spray on bed liner (Herculiner) rather than rubber undercoating after. My question is do I wait till the Rustbullet is totally dry to apply the Herculiner or put it on while the Rustbullet is still tacky?
As usually I have searched before posting.
This may be irrelevant, but I am doing the same thing. I'm in the process of stripping all the undercoating off my second 240z, but, I am painting it with 2 layers of POR-15. I head bad, bad, bad things about putting undercoating/bedliner on the bottom of these cars. I believe this is why so many cars have rusted out on the bottom due to moisture being trapped between the body and the undercoating. Just my thoughts.
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Hey fellas,
Well I am trying to work out a custom grind cam with Rebello and would like them to have a compressor map for my 2001 HY35 from an automatic Dodge pickup. Here is the most accurate information I have found:
This is a verified set of HY35 maps and an HX35 map from HOLSET over the years.
Pre 2003 HX35 in green
2003-04.5 HY35 in black
2004.5-present HY35 in red
Unfortunately, my turbo does not seem to be listed. Can somebody help me? HX35 only seems to be listed here. Thanks!
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Did you get one of those P90a heads with solid lifters or something?
No, its an '82 and I've heard so many things about whether its possible you may or may not have solid lifters regardless of P90 or P90A. Just doing a double check!
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Why are you assuming that you need more oil flow? I wouldn't drill anything out. You just need to buy the right adapter fitting. I think it is a 12mm inverted flare to -4AN male. Why run two oil pressure gauges? The stock one will do the trick.
Pete
Well I want to run both gauges, just for assurance. I've had problems with the one in my '73 reading absolute zero when I know its not. Does a bigger turbo not demand a higher oil flow? Also, I've found a lot of these adapter fitting on eBay:
It looks like they're going by thread measure opposed to something like 12mm. Perhaps you could link me to the appropriate fitting? Thanks again!
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SCORE!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
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Please say its so!
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Hey guys,
In basic terms, here is what I am looking to end up with:
Basically, I need somebody that knows the threading between all of these connections and what adapter and fitting I will need. The -4 AN feed line will be using the stock oil feed line. Is there any kind of restrictor piece in there that can be drilled out? I will be running a big turbo, so oil supply will need to be increased, most likely. This is a 1982 L28ET. Thanks!
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I would be absolutely destroyed if my Z was wrecked
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Hey fellas,
Well I was just watching some L28ET videos and came across this:
Now, if you listen, you can hear a distinct surge sound between shifts, it almost sounds futuristic. I realize its the turbo system, but what exactly is that sound? It doesn't sound like a bypass valve, so what is it? Is it good, bad, what? Thanks!
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Hey guys,
I want to run an aftermarket oil cooler on my L28ET that used an automatic transmission, which has a check valve integrated into the block. Would this sandwich plate be okay to use in conjunction with my type of block?
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/EAR-510ERL/?rtype=10
Thanks!
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Hi Jacob,
Im sorry I didnt get back with you what email did you send to? I have been pretty busy and may have missed it. Anyhow, I have two adapter plates left if you are interested in one. Keep in mind the Mazworks includes bellhousing machining and I do not, you have to arrange that yourself.
Shoot me an email to: austin.hoke@vq240z.com and Ill get back to ya ASAP.
Thanks
-Austin
Sent you an e-mail, let me know if you received it. Thanks!
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The turbo L28 uses a 240mm clutch, if that helps.
Solution: Give it an armor all bath! I literally soaked the dash surface to prevent any cracking in the good one.
R200 CLSD Mounting
in Drivetrain
Posted
Ok, all question have been answered, but I have one more. I have a 1973 240z that this differential will be installed into, so how hard is it to install a 280z R200 flange into the differential??