jacob80
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Posts posted by jacob80
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Hey fellas,
Well, I've hit a snag.
I'm in the process of installing a CLSD R200, Z31 turbo CV shafts, and 27 spline 280z stub axles.Problem 1
I have removed the strut housing from the car and need to remove the stock 240z stub axles to install the 280z stub axles, but of course, they're torqued very high and I'm not sure how to approach breaking them loose. I also thought I read somewhere that the nuts are staked in, correct me if I'm wrong. Just need a walkthrough here.
Problem 2
I am also having another issue with the bolts securing the ring gear to the clutch housing of the LSD. I have the LSD unit removed from the differential housing and I have hammered on them with my impact gun with no success. What is the next step here? I would use heat, but I'm not sure if it would potentially warp the ring gear or something of that nature. What are these bolts torqued to? Do I need to use loctite when reinstalling them?
Any help is appreciated guys. Thanks!
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Hey guys! Well, I got the input flange on lickety split, pulled out the LSD, then ran into troubles. The ring gear bolts DO NOT want to come off! I sat there and hammered on them with my impact gun to no avail. I need some help fellas, I'm not sure what to do next! Luckily, I had other things to do, but damn, what are these things torqued to!?
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Well I called motorsport yesterday afternoon and gave him the part number of the Nissan collar I have and the part number for my clutch.pressure plate setup and he said it will work. According to him, the part number is for a 280z. I mau just go ahead and make some measurements for anyone that is curious. Thanks for your help guys, I am hoping to have this all put back together shortly!
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Ok here is a my 2ct.
Is that metal dust on the pressure plate?
If that is could be from what appears as heavy ware on the fingers were the bearing rides.
I'm considering this is all new stuff.
So seems to long of a collar.
Now, might want to replace the bearing while you are at it.
Another thing, (i might have missed this), is that the 240mm clutch and flywheel/pressure plate?
Last thing, is that poly on your T/C rods?
I am thinking that yes, my collar is too long. It is a 225mm clutch with the stock 4 speed collar, and it slipped like no other, so I'm thinking when we bolted up the transmission, before we even touched the clutch pedal it was already disengaging the clutch. It very well may be metal dust! And yes, everything is brand new! I have a new pilot bearing, throw out bearing, collar, clutch, pressure plate, and slav cyliner that will be going on the car, and I called MSA yesterday and confirmed that yes, I do have the right collar! Also, what are you referring to when you say T/C rods? One last thing, should I do something special to the flywheel to clean it? I know the clutch was slipping a lot, so I just don't want that to have an effect on the new clutch. Could the previous clutch have polished the flywheel friction surface to the point where the new clutch may not hook up?? Just making sure I get everything right, thanks!!!
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You know, I just don't think there is a high demand for them. I couple this with the fact that I have only ever seen three S30's in the Omaha, Nebraska area...ever.
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Ok, guys, hopefully we can figure this out. Here are a couple of videos:
I need to know if this 28mm height clutch collar will work with my ACT NX2-HDG6 setup, the cluTch collar part number and photo are pictured above. Thanks!!!!
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Details, details! I've been following this story on multiple Z sites, whats the word!?
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Awesome, thanks fellas!!! I just dropped my driveshaft, rear suspension, differential, and struts last night, just waiting on my LSD, CV shafts, adapters, stub axles, and Ron Tyler differential mount. I'll let you know how it goes!
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BTW, where did you get that 30501 1C104 part? I don't see it listed for the S130 or S30 cars, and there are 6 part numbers alone for the S30 cars. I'm not saying it won't work, but I'm just curious what it comes off of.
Nigel
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This is what I my setup is:
L28ET
ACT NX2-HDG6 clutch/pressure plate (http://www2.advancedclutch.com/1209406/0/0/0/1983_NISSAN_280ZX_L6_2.8L_T_FI_(L28ET).html)
Yes, I would say that 30501-K0401 is what I want. But, what is this collar I have for, and is it equivalent to this P/N?
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35mm sounds right for the 2+2/Turbo clutch. I know I measured mine once, but I forgot to write down the number. All I have is a picture comparing it to a 240SX collar (they are the same). Probably not much help, but here it is...
Nigel
'73 240ZT
Ok, cool. I'm doing a little digging right now in the XenonS130 P/N Fiche and this is what I have come up with:
I don't see this part number in here
What does this mean?? Its number 7 on the diagram. -
Awesome! Great info guys, thank you! Now how about that throw out bearing collar?
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Awesome! Okay, I just found a throw out bearing collar with part number: 30501-1C104, just as Braap sold previously pictured here:
This one is the second one in line with measurements of 25mm and 35mm (Type B 5 Speed). Will this work for my application???? Thanks!!
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Awesome!! Thanks for that great writeup! I just visited Harbor Freight's website and it looks like they sell one for $80! Yeehaw!!
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Wow, thats nutty! I suppose I'll support it with wood and a jack....hopefully I'll have it out by tonight. Thanks for all of your help on that. As far as the bearing collar, which one do I want if I am using a Fidanza aluminum flywheel with an ACT NX2-HDG6 clutch and a stock 1973 4 speed? I am assuming I will want the second one pictured, but I would like some confirmation here. Thanks!!!
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I dont see why you couldnt. I use a ratchet strap connected to the inner fender of either side of the car, and ran under the oil pan.
That i dont know, i personally have never tried it.
I am a little worried about potentially crushing the oil pan, rule of thumb tells me to never jack on an oil pan. Perhaps this application would be fine since its already supported in the front.
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Interesting. Well on that note, are you just placing a Jack on the back of the oil pan? Also, I don't have a slide hammer, but how involved is the grease method?
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I need to do my interior pieces butterscotch. Does that color match the original? What is the color on the can??? Could you get some more photos?
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Also just found out that MSA doesn't have my throw out bearing collar I need (go figure). Using a 1973 stock 4 speed behind a 1983 L28ET with a Fidanza flywheel using a 240mm ACT clutch/pressure plate, which of these collars do I need and where can I find one? Thanks!
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Hey guys!
Well, the time has come to FINALLY put in my ACT sprung six puck stage two clutch with HD pressure plate. I am so excited because when we first installed our spec clutch a year and a half ago, it hasn't been able to hold the power of the car, so I will actually be able to experience it now! Woohoo! But, I do have a few questions before I begin, and perhaps you guys could point me in the right direction. I've done a little searching on the topic, but the search engine isn't the best, and I want an answer specific to the L series motors. All these questions apply to a 1983 L28ET with a 1973 4 speed behind it in a 240z. Here we go:
1. When we installed the clutch, a new pilot bearing was installed along with it. What was kind of odd was that we had a HELL of a time putting the input shaft into the crank, almost as if the pilot bearing was too small, but it was the right part. Should the input shaft just slide it, or should you have to wiggle it to all hell like we had to and then pull the transmission and motor together using the bolts that mate them?
2. Will I need a new pilot bearing? I know its a good idea, but there is hardly any miles on the bearing. ACT provided me with a new one, so I just wanted to know if its necessary.
3. What is the best method to remove the pilot bearing on these motors? I've heard using grease, a puller tool, or even cutting the darn thing. What is the best method?
4. How hard will it be to do the entire clutch assembly with the motor in the car?
5. Lastly, will I need to support the motor in the rear since I'm dropping the transmission?
Thanks guys!
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You should be able to wrap a rag around the flange and hold it with one left hand while hitting the impact with the other and remove the nut that way. Same for reassembly. The flange may or may not come right off. It's a splined flange, the flange slides onto the pinion splines. The pinion by the way is the long shaft and gear inside the diff which turns the ring gear, the ring gear is bolted to the limited slip. Those pinion splines may be rusty and then you'd need a puller ($10 tool at any auto parts store). I haven't needed a puller for any of the flanges I've pulled off in the past, but if you're in the rust belt in PA or something you may not be so lucky.
Alright, cool, sounds easy enough. I believe I do have a puller for my front pulley and such. Thanks for all your help, I'll be sure to snap photos when the time comes.
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Crush sleeve differentials have the pinion bearing preload set with the torque on the pinion nut. If you change the torque there you can really affect the pinion bearing/race relationship and you can end up with slop which allows the pinion to move around or you can end up with WAY too much preload which will bind the pinion shaft up. That's why I ASSumed you were making reference to crush sleeves.
Really in the R200 no reasonable amount of torque should lock the thing up. It's as simple as that. If that happened on yours, something went wrong. If I had to guess I would say the pinion seal got F'd up when you put the yoke on, or the seal wasn't bottomed in the housing so the little lip that sticks out was dragging on the backside of the flange as it turned. Changing the torque on the nut really doesn't have the same effect as it does on a crush sleeve setup, so barring something minor like the pinion seal dragging or something major like the bearings being totally shot, the pinion nut torque should not have any effect on the pinion shaft spinning freely.
I've put a couple on my Z over the years, my MO is to red loctite the nut and then hit it with an IR231 impact with the impact on 5 (highest setting). I'll drain the air compressor until it fills up again and then hit it with a nice full tank. Mine didn't seize.
As far as crush sleeves, pinion bearings, etc etc, I have ZERO experience with this. This will be my first differential installation, so a learning experience more than anything. What I do know is that there needs to be a driveshaft bolted up to the input flange, which is also called (from what I have gathered) the pinion. If this pinion/input flange does not match up to my driveshaft, I must find an R200 pinion/input flange that matches the bolt pattern of my driveshaft and install it, which will come from a 280z or 280zx that is equipped with an R200 from the factory. Once I have located and obtained one, I simply use my impact gun to spin off the nut that secures the 300ZX pinion/input flange to the differential, which should cause the flange to come right off, and pop the 280Z/280ZX flange on and use that same nut and hit it with the impact gun with red loctite on the threads, basically until it can't turn anymore. My one question though, is this. If I'm not mistaken, the impact gun will act as an input and turn the whole works as I'm tightening and loosening this nut resulting in me, basically chasing my tail. Should I secure/lock the differential some way? Or will the impact gun not have enough force to turn the whole works and in turn prevent me from tightening/untightening the nut? Wow that was a lot, thanks!
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So do I need the R200 flange nut or is the stock one fine?
Here is a diagram and P/N's. Should I be able to call Nissan and give them these numbers?? I wish someone on here just had this flange I could snag...
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I believe it is 37 and possibly 38 (the nut) is what I need. Is this just a bolt on affair???
I'm in the process of installing a CLSD R200, Z31 turbo CV shafts, and 27 spline 280z stub axles.
What does this mean?? Its number 7 on the diagram.
Rustbullet and Spray On Bed Liner
in Body Kits & Paint
Posted
I would assume that the Herculiner doesn't adhere as well to paint as paint does to metal. Undercoating has always seemed like a bad idea to me, maybe I'm wrong here, but if rust starts, wouldn't you want to know it opposed to discovering it by surprise? That is what happened to me anyways. I just finished undercoating my car with POR-15 laying on my back for three hours and I believe it was well worth it, very tough stuff.