Onion

This has happened twice now. I brushed the first time off as a fluke, but now that it's happened three times, its a recurring problem. Its a 5 speed from a 1978 Z that I bought off a member here. He estimated it to have about 100,000 miles. Had it installed by a good shop since I can't do that much labor at my apartment complex. It drove fine for about a month. Basically when I shift from a gear and I don't do it very gently, it gets jammed in between two gears. I can sometimes push it back into the gear it came from. It doesn't seem to make a difference based on what gear I'm coming from. The shifter gets jammed and I have to wiggle it around and shake it until it breaks free and I can then drive normally again. It seems to be harder and harder to break it free each time it happens. Any ideas?

I have one in Jacksonville. Needs a rebuild, would run about $200 according to estimates I've gotten from transmission shops. I could let it go pretty cheap and deliver it for you.

The Excedy is $100 more than the Centerforce I clutches, and $200 more than the stock replacement on ZCarParts. I can wait a couple days if it means saving that much money. Would the stock replacement on ZCarParts be enough or should I go for the Centerforce I?

My clutch is gone and I need a new one. I'm running a 5 speed from a later Z, but I'm not too sure what I'd need or what the best bet would be from my car. I'm not making very much power and only street driving it. A little roughly at times, but its still street driving, not track abuse. http://www.thezstore.com/page/TZS/PROD/classic22b01a/21-2331 http://www.thezstore.com/page/TZS/PROD/classic22b02a/21-2002 I was looking at these two. There's no info on the second clutch, so I don't really know anything about it. I'm just running the 2.4 liter with a cam, Holley carb, and full exhaust, so I don't need anything too high end. Also, is there a better place to buy than the ZCarParts website? I need it asap as my car is my daily driver. Thank you.

I googled Recaro Orange Gradient out of curiosity and found a lot of hits. This might give you an idea of price. http://www.vwvortex.info/2012/11/for-sale-recaro-ls-c-ideal-seats-orange.html Turns out those seats were available only in 1984, and that some VW Corados had them.

Spotted a Z around 1:11:30.

I always love concept cars, but this looks really lame. Not excited, and I'm hoping the new Z is nothing like this.

Such a waste of a good car. They could have just taken the wheels and left.

I can't give you a specific price, but I wouldn't surprised if that sold for over $1000. Its in perfect condition.

Just to update this... I did a rough timing and primary float adjustment. Primary is a hair too low, timing is 10 advanced on idle and about 30 at speed. It doesn't bog down anymore or hesitate when I go WOT, but only when it's earn warm out. I'll finish my tune in between school and work today, hopefully that cures it.

I agree and disagree. I daily drive my 240Z and it has the sporty suspension bits. It's not comfortable by any means, but it really isn't anywhere near as bad as it could be. I have the MSA sway bar kit, poly bushings, 1.5" Eibach springs on stock struts (they're very compressed and makes for a hard ride), and not much ground clearance. The only two annoying things are the ground clearance (can't fit a soda can under the car), and the 4 point racing harness. As long as you get a good seat, you'll be good, even with stiffer suspension (which you might enjoy, since it makes it a lot of fun around corners).

Reliability for cheap and not doing a V8 swap kind of rules everything out. SR engines are alright. RB engines are expensive. 1JZ/2JZ are expensive as well (not 100% sure though). As far as practicality goes, L28ET swaps are great because you don't have to fabricate motor mounts, you can keep your transmission (provided you have the right one), and they're really cheap. I've been thinking about it lately, and I've seen nice full engines in my area go for $400 or less.

I don't have a light to compare it to, so I'm going to cross my fingers and hope that it works properly... I bought the $30 HF one and used the 25% off coupon. Seems like a decent light, and the price was good.

L28ET, nice and easy, and what I find to be enough power for a Z car. Plus, L6 engines sound so nice.

Its a Z website. Contact the guy, I'm sure he knows. They look like they do, but don't take my word for it.

New rubber.

I got the vacuum gauge to tune the idle mixture after watching all the Holley videos on how to tune the carb properly. They say that the a bad idle mixture will make it run poorly throughout the rev range. I'll definitely get a timing light. I know I need one, but I read that you can get pretty close by ear, which is what I did in the meantime. I'll do some reading on distributors and poke around. The vacuum advance on mine doesn't work, so I'm running mechanical advance. I'm not sure what the cam is, but based on the characteristics, I believe it to be a Stage 3 MSA cam, or something similar. The head is the original E88 head, but the previous owner claims it has been ported. Who knows, maybe he even shaved it. I'm trying to get my hands on a different head (more details on that when I meet up with the guy). That's the reason I don't post very much... I pretty much just read and read and read. I've learned a whole lot, but I've got a long ways to go. I've read that from AZC, my carb and intake were sold separately, but both pieces were brand new. Slipped my mind... Pertronix Ignitor and Pertronix Flamethrower 3 ohm coil. I'm thinking of getting this timing light... Not the cream of the crop, but I can afford it and it (probably) does the job well enough for me to use it a couple times. Any thoughts? http://www.amazon.com/INNOVA-3551-Inductive-Timing-Light/dp/B000EVYH72/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1382647805&sr=8-1&keywords=timing+light

$50, got 10% better gas mileage. I realized it was stupid, bought a vacuum gauge, and learned how to do it myself. Studying international business law.

I don't have the money to spare at the moment, college is expensive. I asked autozone if they can loan one out, but they don't loan timing lights.

I forgot to mention this... The car uses to bog down when I was accelerating from a stop and letting the clutch out too fast. I'd have to kick the clutch in quickly and give it a bit of gas to save it from stalling. This started happening after the shop poorly tuned my carb and adjusted my timing. It no longer happens now that I've advanced my timing. Also, my fuel filter is probably in need of being replaced, but would this contribute to the issue at hand?

I'm running a Holley 390 with the Arizona Z car single plane manifold. I don't own a timing light, so I adjust my timing by ear. The engine is an L24 running the late model E88 head. The issue I had was when I took it to a shop, they told me my timing was too far advanced, and they pulled it back. The distributor was advanced one mark from center. On high rpm, especially in first gear, I would start getting a popping sound from the engine bay, and it would keep going until I hit an RPM wall and the car would Rev anymore. This would happen around 5k-6k rpm (not sure, still don't have a working tachometer). I've adjusted my floats. My secondary is on point, and my primary is a little high, but it's on the to-do list. The idle mixture is perfect and the car pulls about 18 inhg of manifold pressure. I tuned it again this morning, got it to 19 inhg. I have an in-line tee fuel pressure gauge which reads 4 psi. When I adjusted the mixture again this morning, I decided to mess with the timing and see how it affects the vacuum. I advanced it about two more notches, which bumped me up to a hair over 20 of manifold pressure. I took it out for a spin and was able to wring it out all the way in first gear with no popping. My questions are as follows. 1. Was the popping a lean condition at high revs? 2. If so, how does advancing the timing affect the lean condition? 3. Does the combustion happen sooner, requiring less gas? (I don't really understand how this would happen, I'm still learning and reading a lot.) Or was this just a timing issue that would cause the popping? 4. Is my timing being too advanced really rough on the bottom end? I heard if it's too far, it'll shorten the life of the engine and eat the crankshaft bearings. I had my timing all the way advanced at one point. Pardon me if this post is poorly structured, I typed the entire thing from my phone.

I looked at the custom shift boot you posted, that looks really nice. Unfortunately, I live 400 miles away from my family and I don't have a sewing machine. Seeing that it looks like fun, I'm just gonna wait until I go down to Miami on vacation to do this. Closed. Thanks all.

Nice weather, taking it out to the store. I'm actually going to enjoy it because I won't be drenched in sweat.

Looking for a nice shift boot. Let me know what you have and please include a picture. No rubber stuff unless it looks decent.

Got one. PM me.