Tony D
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Posts posted by Tony D
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Force Reversals overload the light friction fit and allow the gear to spin.
Drilling and reaming for a 3mm hardened dowel, which was chilled via CO2 & Alcohol and press fit into a 240F heated Distributor Shaft and Drive Gear Assembly left us not worrying about a hollow hole in a shaft...
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What is being stated here? Change the coefficient of friction by altering the lubricant used and then just wing it without calculation of the new proper torque?
You put MOLYKOTE on a fastener specified for SAE 30wt motor oil and torque it to the same indicated torque value...things will stretch or break!
"Anti-Seize" means many different things to different people... To some, it means MOLYKOTE, to others, Fel-Pro C5-A or equivalent...
Each with QUITE different effects on take up on a bolt and final tensile loading due to changes in thread and under head friction.
A very small change in friction can result in tensile overloading by a factor of 300%, easily!
Don't start changing lubes without knowing what you are really affecting!
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Rich=Shift Ctrl Arrow Up
Lean=Shift Ctrl Arrow Down
Use mouse to select an area of the map, hold Shift-Ctrl while you Left-Click and drag over the cells you want to change...
The above keyboard shortcuts will then affect ALL load points in the table equally...
"CARBS ARE EASY!"
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"There is a reason that nearly every factory port injection EFI has the injectors in the same place."
Yep, Emissions.
Search on "tau layer" and the "wet manifold" starts to make sense. Tuning for transients is actually working to preemptively soak the wetted portions of the manifold to keep the tau layer constant. TBI existed on V8's for so long because the evolution of the wet-flowed manifolds by use with carbs for 40+ years at that point was such that putting TBI air doors on with essentially the same placement of fuel but far more precise control of amount introduced really made tuning relatively easy.
As for ordering a Pallnet fuel Rail and hoping it fits....WHY GUESS? Box it up, ship it to him, and let Pete make a rail that FITS?
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Pulled the cap on the dyno and the owner said "Well, it didn't drive down here like that!"
Dyno operator took a look... Me, the owner of the car, and the fixit guy around the shop came to see it as well.
Jumped 180 out...
Retimed it, and on the next run, it jumped out 18 degrees...
"Whelp, that's it for today..."
Tweaked the dizzy to drive it the 120 miles back home....
In a way, it was the beginning of the age of innocence for the owner.
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But did he give credit where credit was due...or did the buyer of the flipped car even care?
Muahahahaha!
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I've done it for people from time to time.
I'm like the character "Red" in "The Shawshank Redemption"...
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"For sale is a 1976 Datsun Fairlady 280Z 2+2. My dad imported her from Japan in 1978 when stationed at Yakota. Since then, it has been in storage. Fairlady has 31,543 Kilometers on it.
Each component is of Japanese Domestic Market specs. Everything is original! The Z is a right hand drive with a manual transmission. The engine is an L28, inline-6 2.8 Liter. The Fairlady Z is in immaculant condition but due to storage, hasn’t ran for 9 years. We fired it up and drove around the block 2 years ago.
Price is set at $18,000 OBO. I will also deliver via truck to anywhere in the state of Arizona (where Fairlady is located). All offers welcome. Serious inquiries only."
Uh, no, the engine isn't original, and the under-dash aftermarket AC isn't original...
Looks like a 2/2 Standard model (meaning 3.9 or 4.11 R180...) with that FOUR speed tranny.
I wonder if he even looked at the engine before he called it an L28?
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Yeah, but do you flash your cool tool to those who visit your garage?
I haven't had anybody stop by in a while... I wonder why?
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Dodge Monaco's (440) will successfully operate for extended periods with a urine-based coolant package...
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I need to set up a Magic Jack and send it to you with a five year subscription!
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"You CAN NOT turn the shaft while in the timing cover ."
I got at least four other people than myself that watched that EXACT thing happen...then retired the engine and made another run to confirm, indeed, the engine CAN skip time that way!
Normal procedure is to drop the pump.
Unless you pinned the gear, they CAN spin under the right circumstances!
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Just ran across some invoices from The Netherlands from 2000-2002 when we were buying compressor parts from there by the CONTAINERLOADS...
Back then, the price in US$944.37 (€1=0.63¢!!!)
I withhold further commentary on the changing f exchange rates other than to note most parts in Japan I see stay the same price in ¥ as they were nearly 30 years ago. This thing is still only €1,500... It IS the exchange rate!
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Interesting treatment of the post once edited....
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<p>Too Bad you didn't have a G-Nose...<br />
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You could lay the AC Coil Down horizontal and use pancake fans to cool it separately.<br />
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Not that I knew anybody that did that...<br />
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You got the test down, decel is where everything gets ground up...a limit bracket on the back side of the motor mount works well to make sure it doesn't move and still keep rubber mounts. The ZX Isolators do it, but they're kinda mushy and let the engine move more than I like.<br />
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Core sizing sounds about right for what I had. The 12 x 10 fan was exactly what I did, then found some reeally high-capacity 10's that I replaced them with. Staggered one up high, the other down lower for similar clearance issues on another car.<br />
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I start sympathising with the Japanese Builders who just cut the damn radiator support out and tilted the whole arrangement forward to get clearance! My black car is about "this" close from having that done behind the G-Nose...</p>
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To be honest, I bought Magnecors from Summit (a local speedshop was out of stock) for a "Chevy V8 Universal Kit" if memory serves. MORE than enough length...and some nice plug boots to clear at the ends.
Lets you be real creative where you put your coil as well, since you have a conventional coil wire, plus two regular wires that can relocate the coil quite a distance away from where it normally would be (like in front of the radiator so it stays nice and cool...)
The price for a Chevy Universal Kit a plug crimper (not the one in the kit) was less than "Custom Datsun L-6 Wire Set"
Same Wires...
Extra Wires...
Cheaper Cost...
I have a cool tool to show off afterwards...
That gets me EVERY time!
So I guess this is +n for Magnecors...No RFI issues for my MS, SDS, or Radio: WOO HOO!
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Kindler, gentler group here these days. Afraid of Phosgene. Hell, I bet you don't mix Clorox and Vanish to get a whiter cleaner toilet bowl either!
You want a real cleaner? Methylene Chloride, 1,1,1 Trichlorethane, Carbon Tetrachloride...
MEN'S CLEANERS...
Weeds out the weak early in the apprenticeship period...
As for valves....we got an engine in once where the builder turned the lash adjusters up all the way and cranked the engine. Oops, bent and valves and broken guides...no compression nor vacuum. Check your lash to get correct vacuum signal to FPR.
Injectors fire (NOID Light) every third ignition pulse. You can test it by scratching the negative off the coil "key on" agains ground quickly. Scratch, Scratch, Scratch "CLICK" next scratch could give you a boom out the intake or exhaust as the injected gas in whatever cylinder is pointed to on the distributor cap lights off with continued sparking in the cylinder... But it lets you do a fender check quickly to verify it is all working.
Then it's a matter of degrees. If it runs on sprayed ether (starting fluid) the ignition is OK and it's fuel (volume, likely) getting to the cylinders.
EFI Bible is critical to have at hand during this testing phase to component check properly.
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Detonation...bummer! What fan are you using? The early fans fit better than the 280ZX fans, and they are about that different. The engine bay photo I posted in 71 shows almost identical positioning with the stock three core MSA unit.
The SC serpentine belt runs off the front of a secondary pulley about where the ARA York AC Compressor used to reside (fitting since that was the first sacrificial bracket used to mount the SC!) of course it's currently unintercooled.... Meaning fans in front can be a viable option.
I reviewed those engine bay pics you posted I'm trying to picture why there is a clearance issue other than positioning of two smaller, relatively thick fans. I didn't see a shroud installed photo.
Your pulley/drive is almost identically positioned as mine, and we both know that 160F thermostat and cooling mod to the head helps... But how to get a working, efficient fan to fit in that space....
Are you confident the two row can cool you when all is right? Copper and Brass is workable at just about any radiator shop, a couple of Corvette end tanks, you could have a multiple-pass (3 or 5) fabbed for under $400 which could be thin like you currently have but have much better heat rejection properties. With a three pass, that top pass left-to-right would be above your I/C so the most cooling would go on there...the next two incrementally less. There is always the possibility of a three way temperature control valve running "bypass to cooler" arrangement, which means all internal coolant bypasses could be plugged permanently giving 100% capacity to cooling of the engine. But plumbing a 25-30mm tube and valve placement would be a definite challenge!!!
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You could have sent in a flywheel and the machine shop Blanchard ground the dowels off flush...
Never send a flywheel in without personally extracting the dowels,do not assume they will "do the obvious"!
Hope that story gives you some relief.
Dowels or shoulder bolts... Or bushings to Center the plate in the holes. And like stated, rotate the PP as the dowels will only go one way..and the fit should be TIGHT!
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"Bolt Science" website...it will keep you busy for a week.
Then the aberrational quote "a high strength fastener is a high strength fastener" can be edited with the appropriate amount of shame due for it being uttered in the first place.
Similarly, the comment about "lock" washers...
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I'll go further than "not to likely a problem": there is NO problem!
This is the sanding marks frm the giant belt sander that took the casting spruce off the cam tower when in foundry production.
Find me one that DOESN'T have the exact same scratches on it...I dare ya!
Don't pull the valve cover unless its leaking or you intend to do a valve lash adjustment.
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Standard, unglamorous four core copper & brass, man!
Andy Flagg had a killer five-core five pass radiator built for dyno time... Also works well to cool his 10 second Cadillac Powered 240Z on the street when not needed for Bonneville car dyno runs.
For the B'ville car, we run a standard MSA Three Core unit at the salt...
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Head suffers from the CAUSTIC, not the Sulfamic acid. That stuf is VERY specific, we used it because its so aggressive against calcium, but doesnt attach copper, aluminium, steel, brass, or cast iron!
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Listen to the first few seconds "we cut the tube too short leaving a big gap..."
Not ideal, not preferred, but it's a bracket for holding internal parts...not anything critical like part of the crash structure.
Turbo intake manifold fabbing
in Fuel Delivery
Posted · Edited by Tony D
There are TBI inline sixes as well...
Tau is Tau
Soaked into the deposits on the back of the valve... On the long side radius...
Port injection does NOT eliminate the effects of the Tau Layer, only where it occurs.
The tuning of transient response IS the tuning of Tau Layer.
Unless I missed it, and we switched discussions to a direct-injection setup...
Wanna know why manufacturers are switching to Direct Injection? After the obvious reason of hardware now being available to do it...
(Hint: Look at the Last reason! It totally eliminates Tau-Layer transient tuning complexities. What you put in the cylinder is what goes there....no vagary of an evaporating puddle of petrol somewhere exhibiting variable-enrichment/enleanment rates...)