Tony D
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Posts posted by Tony D
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Read the stickey from monster on box design...
<EDIT> I just watched that video. Oh, Christ god almighty! DON'T DO IT MAN!!!! NOT WITH THAT BOX!!!!
I now PLEAD: read the sticky on box design started by Monzster!
You will be SORRY with that box design, partial throttle enleanment...OH HELL NO!
I had a crappy looking HKS Knockoff box with baffles in it that, functionally was PERFECT save the fact it knocked on my hood a bit, and looked like crap.
I changed to a simple-style Cartech "Box" like that and picked up a highway speed transient lean spot THAT WOULD NOT GO AWAY! It convinced me to,go EFI. That exact-same style box.
Oh god, don't do THAT!
Read the sticky! PLEASE!!!
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Stock L28ET, Eurospec with proper fuel calibration and the stock .82AR Hotside turbine was 200HP...
If you want that at the wheels, bump the boost and add a bit of fuel, no I/C needed, road trip to your heart's content!
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Yeah, you want 3" on it!
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Wicked Bitchin'!
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Ask for the current owners last letter in their surname...
If its a "Z"... Your wiring and stereo bugaboos likely will have been inflicted on the car in SoCal...
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I watched that happen on a Brand-New F150 4x4 as the guy backed out of the parking stall, came to a proper stop, put it in drive and started an abortive drive forward.
Had I not been RIGHT THERE watching it happen, I would have never believed it was not some sort of Neutral Slam high-stall shock loading of the driveshaft incident.
Luckily I was there, as the plant manager was of the same mindset as I before I witnessed it fail under normal conditions!
Freaked the poor driver ALL OUT!
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Where the hell did my post go?
Not again on an iPad, sorry!
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"Relative to other induction systems found on the L6 , blow thru triples are rare and information is scarce."
Centrifugal Supercharged L6 ...
Latham Supercharged L6, any induction style...
Blow-Through SU's...
Those are three I see less than triple Blowthrough setups...relative is relative!
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Yetterben documented extensively and excruciatingly his build.
And of course, I have been a voice of ITB Reason since shelving my 25+ year owned PHH Blowthrough Turbo Car...
Still have it, but moved to the EFI Revolution as prices made it inevitable.
If experienced support is what you want...you gotta do the legwork, first. I, for one, do not like repeating myself on this particular subject.
Worst thing that ever happened: Summer Break & Wangan Midnight Redux!
It's far from unique, it's antique!!!
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I've got a head with 50mm holes in it... I'm sorry, but even The way I drive, that's a damn slow port unless I'm running 20" tall tyres and a 5.62 gearset!
This goes hand in hand with the "small port engine build" Oz Connection was doing. A 30mm port on a stock L28 isn't necessarily a bad thing.
But if you can get 218 out of a raised floor, FIA-Legal 35mm nominal port diameter hole... What benefit do you get going bigger? How does that not simply raise the RPM you need to twist the engine to get optimum performance?
The desire to get X/CFM@0.400" lift IS a valid design consideration, and being supercharged it will mask the normal tendency of a larger port to sog below a given RPM.
The photo looked like your proposed enlargement was simply a symmetrical enlargement of he existing hole (which I see people do all the time!) It looked bad, glad to hear you were uplifted!
I'm getting the itch for my supercharged car... Who knows when I'll get back to it? I didn't even get a chance to sit in it before I pushed it into the container for Hoardification!
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A/N fittings are designed for vibration, JIS and SAE are not designed so stringently in that respect
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Yes, Yetterben didn't document anything on his 360hp triple Weber Blowthrough setup at all...There is limited info for pressurizing triples on here - because it isn't that practical and difficult to tune. Plus, once you've upgrade fuel an exhaust plumbing most guys have decided to just swap out a turbo motor.
I would love to pressurize my Mikunis to be different - but I'm going to do the wiser thing and FI the engine.
Good luck
(Especially about those brass floats...)
And he lives over in Wisconsin not too far from MN..
But he sold that setup, it's running on an S130 in Holland now at 230kw by some 70-ish Dutchman...
Searching is your friend here.
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Slover's, Rebello, and BCG all managed 200+ CFM at a 35-36mm nominal diameter at manifold flange.
The old Carburetted ports on big HP engines resulted in a reasonably constrained taper from 55, 50, or at least 40mm ports at the flange of the Cannon/NISMO manifolds.
Big ports are slow down low. You have a supercharger to correct that, but I think it's been shown you bon't need huge ports to get the flow...it's almost all in the Bowl!
Also, cheat your port higher, do not lower the port floor by simply making it symmetrically larger. Yes, you will have to do the same to the manifold...but...
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An L28 Cam has you power-peaked at 5,500... So a velocity peak at 6,000 is a problem how, again?
Most turbo cams are " bolt in " meaning power is maximised below 6,500, and the gearing on most L28 cars had top speed occurring at 5,300 rpms...
So....
Theory being theory, it has a bench racing aspect to it... But in practical application on cars designed around torque, geared that way, and driven that way, what you realize is you GAIN power/torque on the bottom end of the rev range, while in all practical terms lose nothing off the upper rev range which traditionally is the zone of lightweight racing vehicles...but make for a miserable drive in a larger Saloon car!
I drove a few hot Cedrics in Japan...really a strange feeling...unless you ran a 5.60 gear set the car didn't move off the mark quickly at all, and you had to,twist the engine above 3,500 continually to get middling performance with no appreciable increase In Top speed. The same car a year later with a Turbocharged car, 4.11 gear set, and shift points 2,000 rpms lower was a LOT mor driveable.
"Strangled" engines with high port velocity and small carbs have traditionally been an automaker's offering when a market didn't support huge V8's. torque peak elevated somewhat through cam work and gearing for midrange , and good cylinder filling to wake it up off-idle. Sure, top end suffers ultimately, but the in-town practical application of the car...where you spend 85%+ of your driving time is greatly improved.
I think this is the root of this exercise.
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"I'm looking specifically for a lighter, series one chassis, that has never been hit, has little to no rust, is fairly complete/original, and hasn't been ruined by incompetent owners."
Ruined is subjective, and apparently it has to run....
You range is around where it will reside. My last $5K 240 came with a truck end of parts...mainly things the previous owner "ruined" but had the forethought to save the original parts and put them away. Like adding a trailer hitch...on hole in the bumper? Spare bumper in His Hoarde. Supercharged EFI L28? Original Matching-Number L24 complete in His Hoarde. Matching Simpson Racing Buckets? Original Seats wrapped in Plastic in His Hoarde.
I can take off all the PO's prior ruination and put it back to bone stock if I so desire. But some might not consider what he did "ruining it"
LOL
9/71 production date...on Craigslist. They sold to me ( and were willing to drop the price to 4K due to registration fess! ) because I wasn't quibbling over the price. Rust free Early Car...how rust free was actually a surprise to me when I saw it in person...The Valley has pristine cars! Now hear near the Beach! Fer sher, really, ya know? Like, totally!
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EVA...'86! I remember their catalog, quality line of FRP Appearance mods, and one f the nicest replicas of the G-Nose at the time!
Took me decades after leaving Japan to find an original EVA G-Nose for my car!
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I will be interested to see flow bench numbers for improvement over stock. Should prove interesting.
Big runner size..38mm!
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Any deposit I would accept for ANY car that is up for sale would be "non-refundable"--the purpose of putting the car up for sale is to sell it...holding off other buyers is a well known tactic in CA...give them a deposit, wait till they've run off all other suitors...then show up and lowball...
If you wanted a refundable deposit, then it's not really a deposit is it? It's rental.
If someone comes with a "refundable deposit" and someone else show cash-in-hand, you can't fault the guy for selling it and handing you back your money with a smile and a "sorry dude!"
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I put mine anchored where the rear bumper bolts on to the back, using a slip-in technique I made a combination 2" Box receiver holder/tie down ring for each side.
having a 2" receiver is handy with all the accessories, and for when it comes to jacking up the car!
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"maybe I am obsessing over silly details."
At this point, I would say yes.
The first assumption which was wrong was wanting minimum tolerance on the ring gap. That is EXACTLY OPPOSITE what you want!
Like the Pontiac Ad: "Wider is Better"
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They still sell the flanges at HKS Japan...
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The BHJ dude (Chris?) did come on this board one time to address questions on what their product does...
Seems to me someone truly interested in an answer, instead of mere postulations could send an e-mail to BHJ Technical Services directing them to this thread and likely get concrete answers... And an explanation on how changing mass effects resonant frequencies and vibrational nodes... Really "knowing where" is a simple matter of testing and calculation.
If there are enough people knife-edging in the same way...it's a simple matter of submitting one for some tests to determine frequencies as well...
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And I got news or ya: reusing your pistons is not optimal for ring life, and any aftermarket ring is crap compared to the original OE Nissan rings...so you are already well down the road compromising things which have a FAR greater affect on longevity than a 0.005" ring gap anomaly.
Your ring WILL NOT last as long as the rings you took out.
We're I you, I'd run the old stock Nissan rings with a new oil control ring!
I've got well over 300,000 miles on my 80 L28, with 185 psi compression...compression rings last forever, oil controls lose tension and stick. These will too, and the compression rings won't last as long as what you're taking out and throwing away.
That's just the facts.
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We can not force common sense. I know engineers who jump because "seal air pressure too low" at 20psi into the panel, when we normally have 40....
They are amazed when the machine starts just fine, and loads up giving the 40psi eventually...
Same for these ring gaps.
Buying oversized rings is NOT how you get less ring end gap. It is, however a good way to screw up your cylinder bore and pistons...
The "wear" you are talking and fretting over will take 100,000-200,000 miles to happen...
You are talking about a .15mm disparity... Get over the hump, dude! Or take your ring set back, complain to the seller, and get another set, likely with the same clearances. Repeat ad nauseam until you:
1) find a set where you are happy with the fit.
2) realize you are wasting your time and just assemble it and find out you wasted days worrying over nothing.
45-35-35 or 18-14-14 if you prefer. Compression is the important thing. 0.005" "too much" ring end gap on an oil control ring (which is going to eventually stick ANYWAYS) is nothing to blink an eye over.
Bent shaft as a trophy? How about this?
in Non Tech Board
Posted
Actually if you look at the failed part, you can see the area where the crack propogation started.