Tony D
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Posts posted by Tony D
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Cool fuel is nice...but so is more pump suction pressure. I know the Z Tank will take around 3-5psi, I put that much into mine and my son's 510 Wagon to test the line conversion I had done. That may cause issues with the FPR up front, but that would be a stretch.
It's almost like you would want a boost pump/surge tank at 3-5psi feeding the mains, like on the Cunningham Racing 300ZXTT (#75 Car) Had two boost pumps filling twin surge tanks which were 3" in diameter, and almost 40" tall behind the driver's compartment (from skid plate to roof!) From those surge tanks, two more high-flow pumps sent fuel up to the rails/injectors/FPR...
You're kind of at that kind of flow rate using Petroleum. With the flow rates of the E85, I'd say you are equal to or exceeding it. You may want to ditch the idea of straight pump suction, and put in a boost pump/surge tank design to feed your main pump.
The tank pressure works O.K. for me, but that's not more than 450HP.
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Darius seems to enjoy the Carousel much more than his mom does...
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"i pulled the carbs off and put them standing up and a good amount of fuel pissed out. im guessing they need to be rebuild? "
Uh... did you drain the float bowls before 'standing them up'? That fuel micturation sounds like float bowl drainage to me.
I'm leaning towards Leon's opinion on this whole issue about this point in time...
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"it will have very stiff springs in the rear (prolly 10k's) and 8ks in the front. this car will have to win with its power and short wheelbase. "
Unitbody Spring Rate.... interesting concept!
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FSM has a nice drawing of where every one of those connectors goes.
Red bunch looks like it may have plugged into a stereo or something.
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BMW Whiner...
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"cavitation damage to the pump impeller that reduced its flow/pressure capability"
Remember people poo-poohing my comments about fuel pump flash-cavitation at elevated temperatures?
It won't help you when it's cold out, but a functioning EVAP system (even the 240 with it's diverter valve) will hold a few inches water static pressure in the tank (if all the hoses are sealed)---doing a little toying with that spring would allow a bit more NPSH at the pump inlet without the need for the larger lines. And with Alcohol's vapor pressure, you could probably get a nice boost in inlet pressure to prevent it from happening again Tim.
Or did you "remove all that emissions garbage"...
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Thing is, at the top end, you should have 5-7 psi! It's how the small needle and seat combination keeps the small SU Fuel level steady during extended high power pulls.
If you can't pull 6500 in 2nd, then pull to 104mph in 3rd, shift to fourth all the way to redline your fuel pump isn't keeping up! Bucking, surging, outright detonation....
It's a terrible thing!
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Big Washer at the end of the T/C setup?
If you can PM me your address, I've scrapped dozens of S30's I'm SURE I have one or two of those washers laying around.
You can have it if I know where to ship it to!
A photo would be good, or a circled call out from a parts diagram to MAKE SURE I sent the right bit.
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Wow, in before the shedding!
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"My passenger side tension rod is missing it's front washer, nut and bushing, which they think is causing the control arm to pull back when braking, and steer the car to the right."
Same as my 73! P.O. assembled it without the T/C rod spacer in the bushings---L/F tire would move back in the wheel well about 2" before braking. Couldn't SEE it happening while driving the car, but there was a "CLUNK" and then the wheel wanted to rip out of my hand!
I was about to point out that a 'pull' you feel in the WHEEL distinctly is usually on the side of the car you are feeling the wheel pull. But if the car moves to the right and you really don't feel the steering wheel physically trying to turn in that direction---then likely it's the opposite-side REAR brake causing it.
Glad you found your missing washer!
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1/8 NPT X 1/4" Hose-Barbed fitting into each manifold runner, to a 1/4" Hose Barb X 1/2 Hose-Barb "T" linked with 1/2" fuel tubing. Off one end was a 1/2" Hose-Barb X 3/16" Hose-Barb Reducer Fitting to go to the BOV, and on the back was the barb to go to the brake booster.
If you did the same thing using a -8 piece of fuel rail and some 1/4" barbed fittings, it would be similar. I just made a balance tube to dampen and otherwise smooth out manifold pulsations inherent in short-runner individual throttle body intake manifolds.
Lots of EFI guys do this so they get a consistent MAP signal as well.
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There is actually a post on this someplace. Randy 77 ZT did a connector plug to mate the underdash relays to the ZX EFI harness for a plug-n-play setup which didn't alter anything. Very slick.
The 77 Engine harness will come out as a standalone unit. The interface is one coil wire for the tach/ECU input, and the 6 pin connector (or was it 8?) under the dash above the steering wheel for the combination EFI / Fuel Pump Relay. The ZX has them separate... the 280Z has a 'combi-relay'---easiest is to make the plug fit the ZX engine bay harness and go from there.
Plug-n-Play man, Plug-n-Play. I did it once, some years ago. Don't remember wire colors and pin positions, sorry. But I printed a post with the directions and it took maybe 1/2 hour to do all the wiring mods to the ZX harness to make it a drop in no alterations to the 280Z affair.
Made it smog-legal as well!
Happy Hunting, Good Luck!
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I am a practicing electrical contractor in NJ with over 40 years experience. Underground service feeders, or overhead feeders for that matter can carry double the current of the same conductor in a conduit or in an enclosed space. In the case of direct burial feeders the ability of the conductor to dissipate the heat created by the flow of current gives your 1/0 aluminium a rating of 215 amps. Check out the link below, and have fun welding! I've seen hundreds of homes with 200 amp services fed by #8 copper in the air. This is common in older neighborhoods.
Hope this helps.
Yeah, down the pole about a 2.5 or 3" conduit (haven't measured) which continued into a trench (then buried) to the service meter at the house. I've been gone from the house every time they've pulled the meter for repair or upgrade...
I had some direct-bury stuff from my shed to 'Chicken Island' to provide heat lamps for the incubation coop and lighting, etc... Goddamn gophers ATE THROUGH THE WIRES! Now I have conduit out there, but no time to fish the new wires and complete that project either! I vowed after the gopher incident I no longer would go direct-burial if I could help it, heavy wall PVC with a LOT of tobasco rubbed into it while it sits out in the heat. Paranoid? Yeah, but I HATE digging trenches!
Speaking of #8 Copper, that is what is run to my sheds for a 50A service!
Same contractor... Thanks for the link...I wonder if I can blow my line transformer like with the stereo in the old days...
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"2. Snapon wrench's have a somewhat sharp edge on them and they will hurt your hand when pulling hard on them. see #1 above."
That is what the leather sole on your work shoe is for!
My wife 'forbade' me from buying one of the big water-shedding Costco tool boxes that first came up in 2002. I'm sorry I didn't disregard her then! For the price it was a STEAL DEAL and was everything I needed for the house to consolidate my 'small tools'...
Recently, I found one at a Pawn Shop (sound familiar???) but sad to say someone had beaten me to it and it was "Sold"...
I still have ONE on the horizon... but he's a reluctant seller. One day, he too will need money and like his Milacron Lathe and Pallet Racks, I will possess that box!
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I would show you an engine bay photo of a Norskog conversion, but right now there's a Chevy 350 just laying in there not on the mounts!
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That wasn't too clear---by that I meant the vacuum line from the upper portion of the BOV. It adds pressure to help keep it closed. not the big hose, but the small pressure-sensing line. If you lift-throttle manifold vacuum is put to the top chamber of the BOV and it opens it below the spring pressure. I had to hook mine into my manifolded balance tube for a steady vacuum source to mitigate high pulses on the manifold making it go 'POP-POP-POP-POP-POP' at idle, and an interesting WooshWooshWoosh under boost when I lifted!
Your pipe size is fine, that's not the issue.
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SEE SEE SEE!
ROADTRIP!
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Yeah, I had it in writing, lot of good that will do with the contractor who-knows-where, and who-knows-what he told EDISON to pull!
I'd like to get the aluminum feeder removed and changed to copper simply for the ampacity increase and because all my damn conduits run to that service box, so my original plans would remain relatively unchanged.
I can always run a second service...but really if I'd gotten what I wanted/asked for/specified in the first place, there would be no reason for this crap now! Basically instead of running my wires to the welder socket and later a 50 amp service to my workshop, now I gotta pull another service in just for that, and pulling 50A isn't much cheaper than pulling 250A...
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I agree, there is no LUCK about it! You keep your ears and eyes open, and things happen.
Run/Trundle along head down and preoccupied and you miss a lot!
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Well, Edison is pulling new power lines in my neighborhood and I've had this sneaking suspicion ever since opening my service panel in the front yard that the contractor pulled cheap copper-clad aluminum wire, instead of pure copper. I was supposed to have 250A service, and I've confirmed just this week from the line workers that INDEED I've got 1/0 Aluminum wire feeding the house.
Now my driveway goes over the top of the line, so no digging it up to increase the conduit size...
I guess I can run 1/0 copper and get close to that amperage, more or less (and replace my service panel.)
But right now I'm ruminating over a welder that needs a 100A service, and that is ALL I have coming into the yard. NOT GOOD.
I may just isolate my sheds and the back of the yard, subdivide the property to a second address, and pull new 250A service to the old power pole for the other house we demo'd out in 1997. That would give me independent billing from the house, and leave enough power in the house to run an A/C unit.
Boy this does not make me happy. I suspected but couldn't see the ends of the wires in the panel, nor the writing on the sheaths, so it LOOKED like 1/0 copper, but something told me 'this stuff is aluminum'.... I was right. I got half the amperage I could with that size wire, and less than half of what I SHOULD have had according to my connection request:
"Give me the biggest service I can have without being a commercial customer!"
I gotta go beyotch to Edison now. But I don't think I have the conduit space to run the 250 A service. Maybe 100 if I go with 1/0 copper....
What do you guys think? Try to get something from the screwup on initial connection (uh...from 1997)?
Or start getting quotes for a second service at the property solely for the sheds, shop, and back yard?
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Did you duct the fitting on the top of the BOV to the intake manifold? That should put spring pressure + boost pressure on the BOV and prevent it from lifting under boost. But if you have a considerable pressure drop across the venturis at WOT that MAY act like a partially lifted throttle and make the BOV lift.
The stock T3 starts a 25/2700 or so (with a 0.63A/R, the Euro Versions closer to 2700 as they have a 0.82A/R---using a JDM L20ET hot side with the 0.48A/R you get 12-17psi at 1700rpms when you WOT it--so what the small turbo 'strangles you above 5500, the stock cam peaks there anyway, works for me!!!) This is the continual quandary with guys with big turbos: later spool, which makes for a 'peaky' engine if you don't have the extended rpm range provided by a cam. Since you have a stock turbo cam, expect peak power between 5000 and 5500 tops. So that is about right. You should break 300 once this is sorted and you have full boost and proper jetting for your application.
Don't worry on the pressure split---it didn't cost you a quarter-million dollars. Sometimes I wonder where guys get their degrees printed up...and what a salesman tells them!
Overall not bad though for a first run! Remember JeffP was making 380ft-lbs at 4500 with his big cam...but that was at 8.39psig!
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A-1 Cardone sells them for $110 last I checked.
New from Nissan is around $386
L28 with SU swap help
in Nissan L6 Forum
Posted
You should have seen the 330 parts at the Odaiba Island Swap Meet...wow!
My tests are done on 3rd Street merging with the CR60 Westbound every morning going to work...when in town!
Third is pretty easy, and with the new tranny it was an "Ooops! 5200 in 4th? Better slow down, eh?"