Tony D
-
Posts
9963 -
Joined
-
Last visited
-
Days Won
74
Content Type
Profiles
Forums
Blogs
Events
Gallery
Downloads
Store
Posts posted by Tony D
-
-
Fuel pressure does what when this happens?
-
People have moved on to 'lectricity to do body work?
Wow, what's next? A lightweight alternative to lead?
Oh, I've been in the sauce again, it's makin' me talk CRAZY talk..."lightweight alternative to lead" like that will ever happen...
-
I was going to say 'ceramic' but plaster makes more sense. Thanks Derek! I didn't want to say anything cause I wasn't sure on the composition.
Hey, maybe they can do your horny conversion parts now...
-
Look at the firewall to center post of the distributor, I think you will find it somewhere around 7". The latest photos may have a slightly forward placement because of using the HEI distributor instead of the Conventional like yours has. Most people don't use the smaller distributor as it's non-HEI. Everybody likes the HEI. But on the other conversions that don't drop the engine, you got to move the engine forward to clear the latch. Or drop it, change the latch, and put it farther rearward. Position depends on what distributor you have. Except in the JTR... they took steps to remedy that point.
The JTR is something more like 4".
The newest photos look to me to be the same spot you have. What is the obsession? You absolutely, positively DO NOT have a JTR positioned engine, it's somewhere forward of that 'ideal' spot. End of story. Do you have the Norskog installation manual? There are dimensions contained therein...
-
If you ABSOLUTELY are set on Snap-On or MATCO (my nod goes to Snap-On personally in this instance) heed well the following statement:
PAWN SHOPS ARE YOUR FRIEND!
No, they don't take payments. No, they don't finance (usually) but they DO give you a cut-rate for the SAME EXACT TOOL.
There are some instances where a Snap-On thinwall ring spanner is the only thing that will fit. For that job, buy one. I'm sad the quality of Craftsman has dropped steadily over the years. I have Craftsman that goes with me on jobs for the availability of replacements if I ever needed it (thought I haven't yet...)
I once got into an argument with my boss about our company trucks. He was whining about how much money he had tied up in the trucks. He did not believe me when I said "I have more ON the truck than you have IN the truck!" A 19 page single-spaced insurance inventory the next day shot his theory of being an uninvested freeloader taking his truck for my personal advantage!
But then again, that was over 25 years. You will find you really don't need a lot to start. The school has some deal with the local company to supply the tools, and likely there is some kickback somewhere. It's a scam. Pay $40K for college, pay the debt for a while. Pay $40K for tools, pay the debt for a while. Either way, you pay.
Get them the cheapest way you can. I shy away from flea markets and swap meets as likely you are buying stolen stuff. But a pawn shop at least gains cursory information from the guy hocking it.
And that tells you something... You notice a lot of Drum Kits, Lead and Bass Axes, Saxophones and Trumpets in a pawn shop along with tradesmen's tools.
You don't see a lot of Cellos, or books on fluid dynamics and hydraulic engineering.
What does that tell you?
-
looks like you get it, and then it has a problem maintaining it. I'd look at the feedback loops on the boost controller, it may have a proportional only offset and once you hit the setpoint of 14psi (0.9bar) it then has that offset.
That's what it looks like till 5000rpms, after that it's almost like you are using more air than the turbo can put out. What was the power reading or graph from the rolling road show on that pull?
It may be all in the PID control loop of the boost controller, maybe more sampling rate (gain) or some other setting.
-
They are out there, an I will bet the money I said you could buy one for that before your conversion is completed, there will be one that shows up for that price!
They show up regularly at the usual places. More than a dozen last year alone.
Eyes and ears to the interweb, gentlemen...
-
No, the top photo is a JTR conversion, look at the distance of the HEI distributor from the firewall and the latching bracket.
On the JTR car, the distributor is about 3/4" from the firewall and literally UNDER the latch. Meaning it's about 4" more rearward than the lower photo.
In the lower photo, the distributor centerline is roughly 1/2 the distributor diameter forward of the frontmost portion of the hood latch. No WAY are the engines in the same position.
Is the 240 photo you sent of the car you bought? Norskog did conversions out of their factory on 260 2+2's and later. Everything else should be a conversion kit vended by them.
-
Yeah, it's kinda neat Rapid Prototyping. But this video has been floating around seemingly forever.
Cool the first time but 'amazing' may be a bit of over-egging the pudding. There are paper cutters that make up foam cores for cast blocks, etc. Those are neat as well, since you can have them cut paper and if you stack it you basically have a paper engine block sitting in a pile on your desk.
Cool, that...
But 'amazing'?
-
I'm with Fuzzydice on this one, cut the whole quarter of the car out...top of the "C" pillar, and through the tail light, up the floor between the spare tire and muffler, up over the inner wheel arch inboard of the welded seam between the 'outer inner' and 'inner inner' wheel well, through the tool compartment area, and out the floor towards the front side of the rocker panel seam.
This allows you to 'work from the backside taking apart the panels you DON'T NEED (the inside parts) at their spotwelds... This gives you the knowledge you will need when it comes time to take the actual car you are repairing apart. And how far you need to go to access the welds you need.
The LAST thing I would recommend is welding or cutting along a body-line!!!
Even with a flange-maker that will be a bodge. Simply reskin the WHOLE panel, don't patch it along the longest lines you can possibly use! There is a REASON the factory joined panels where they did. It makes the quickest finish time, with the least visible impact on the finish of the product when it's out there under the eye of the consumer. You would be wise to follow their lead!Buy a spotweld cutter and thin chisel(or sharpen a 'superbar' and use it as a panel knife to separate those spotweld cut flanges...
Do some searches on "Quarter Panel Replacement" and you should find plenty of illustrated examples. They're not Fenders on the back, they're 1/4 Panels...unless you got a Volkswagen Beetle, or some old old old car which actually has that section of car that bolts on. Fenders are generally bolted. "There are no front quarter panels, they are fenders." is what my old Body and Frame instructor would say. I of course would press on asking the difference and it was 'welding versus bolting' so then VW and Corvair came up since Corvairs have welded fenders by his definition and that would make them 'front quarter panels'... I didn't fail the class, but the discussion ceased and I was warned not to waste class time again.
Before the internet, there was shop class...
-
Norskog kept the 'forward' position of the motor like the Scarab.
Really the only other way that is popular to mount it is the 'JTR' method, which puts the back of the engine very close to the firewall, and with a Chevy distributor requires a special latch bracket be fabbed for the hood.
Norskog was based in CA, and also sold complete kits to their conversion (if you have complete documentation, you should have the installation manual for the kit). They were 2+2's for wheelbase purposes, and mine is a 260Z (maybe they knew the car came with a 3.36 R200?????)
I don't think they are any more 'rare' than a non-named conversion. The Scarabs seem to take a premium price, and are the best known. Norskog tends to be a backwater cousin of a Scarab. Kind of like having a pristine Borgward Station Wagon...it's rare as heck, but you will play hell finding anybody who will pay any premium for it! Do what you want, within reason I doubt it will 'Hurt' the value.
One of the options was a G-Nose! Not available on the Scarab...
BTW, the link to the E-Bay auction is dead. No photos available.
-
What's a "cupholer"?
It's like "Cornholer" but far more disgusting. You never want to see the dens of the cupholers, the decadence, the debauchery, the perversion!
I can get you in the back door, knock four times and say 'Fat Tony' sent you...
-
My gawd does EVERYBODY get the same e-mail all at once?
I had to have deleted the link to this 50 times in the past week.
Now, here, with the EXACT same title tagline "this is amazing!!"
Some of you guys got to get out more! Seriously!
-
"rather than being full of dreamers it is full of doers... "
Go read the Tool Shed sometime...
-
"I thought I was clever to put 1, 3, and 5 on one bank and 2, 4, and 6 on the other."
What you did was insure if you loose one injector driver, the engine will ABSOLUTELY not run at idle and if under high speed load doesn't run like ON off ON off ON. Engine goes 'brumm.....brummm...brummm...' Fires on the front three or the back three sounds like a rotary sorta....
If you wire 1,2,3 & 4,5,6 if you loose one injector driver the engine runs rough as hell, but it gets you to the roadside where you can affect the changes to get home on one driver.
-
Put engine at #1TDC.
Remove 81 Distributor cap leaving wires attached.
Remove 81 Distributor.
Drop oil pump and distributor drive spindle.
Install 82/83 drive spindle into oil pump.
Reinstall oil pump / drive spindle per FSM.
Install 82/83 CAS.
Un-Plug wire from 81 CAS, Plug into 82/83 CAS.
Reinstall Distributor Cap.
Start Engine and check timing.
It takes 15 Minutes.
-
If you don't have $1000 for a Fairlady Z, reconsider this project! They are cheap.
What is different about the console?
There are some nice RHD conversion threads out there.
-
What would you sell it as, 'reliable daily transportation'?
"If it don't go, chrome it. If it's chromed, show it!"
I can't be THAT old can I?
-
I think JSM went too far! Remove the inner panel, stick you finger in and press the latch and open the hood. THEN climb out and remove the lock clip and lock assembly.
It's how I've opened my whale-tail decklid for...oh...20 years now. PITA but you can do it with your fingers or a screwdriver.
The lock simply disconnects the pushbutton from the metal piece that pushes on the latch mechanisim. They are separate.
If my fat arse can slip under the back strut bar and pop it open,
-
The point I was making for the general readership is that by being even a bit sloppy, and 'never' going higher than the specifications in the manual, you can seriously overtorque a fastener, leading to failure.
Clean bolts may indeed need to be what it used. In other cases engine oil is called out for lubricant under-head or on the threads. Search and know the lubricant state of the bolt, nut, stud you are tightening!
-
Who put anybody on a pedestal? It's a car for sale ad.
Wow...
-
If he has an original set of JDM light covers with chrome rings, he may, in fact, have an accessory that packs that $500 price tag.
If they are G-Nose Covers, the vendor at the Swap Meet on Odaiba Island outside Tokyo was asking 77,400 yen for them...
Yen sits at 77 to the dollar right now...
I spent more money there than I have at all car shows and swap meets I've attended in the USA in the past 5 years!
Actually, I like the nose treatment. I'm kind of with Chaparral on this one...
FYI:
The headlight covers ordered from Japan in 1985 should have only cost around $250 for the pair at any North American Nissan Dealer. At that time G-Nose complete was around 3 Grand, and in Japan was $1,700 including covers (which at the time were 30,000 yen, and roughly $111, but sold here in the USA for $250, almost a 100% markup.) Since then parts pricing has gone up. Currently I think the last pair of REAL JDM covers NIB went for $600.
-
Yeah, the 'it's someone else's car' comment was pretty good. It may be yours, from history...but you lost your connection when you started farming it all out. It was subtle, but it was an awakening that no matter how much money you have, it doesn't mean you can hurt the ones you love.
The car must be rebuilt... As was said in the movie: "you owe it to yourself, and the car..."
Eric's mate, trying to buy the 80's time capsule off the other guy "Name your price!"
Paraphrased Reply: "Oh, I can't, I'd wake up one day and start drinking andtaking drugs if I sold it!"
-
Speaking of that...if you have a small porta-power you can generate these pressures via hydraulic action. Were you to have a dedicated, small hydro pump with very low capacity and a good gauge you could fill the cooler, lines, and pump with reefer oil, then pump away to hydrostatic pressure. Leaks could be easily identified with UV Dye (since most comp oil now has UV Tracers in it) and you simply flush it all out with Alcohol when you're done. Oil is cheap. So are porta-power heads in need of a seal kit!
Just another alternative...
Not making my target boost
in Turbo / Supercharger
Posted
Each turbo doesn't make 7psi, they both have to make 14psi. I had a plant engineer call me one time because he bought two 150psi compressors at a price of $125,000 each, and expected them to make 300PSI... His logic was '150+150=300' and he was serious!
It's flow that is doubled at the same pressure, not pressure.
It looks like your spool is way late, smaller A/R on the hot side. What cam is being used? Where is it's power supposed to peak. The power and torque charts coincide with the boost graph...
But something isn't right, it shouldn't be dropping pressure at that point. Make sure your wastegate is doing what it should.