Tony D

WOAH! Made a little error on the W-4 eh?

I can't recall which switch is in the TPS for the KA engine---it's either idle or WOT. It really is meant for the Transmission in the KA Application, and I believe that means "WOT"... How it would work in the stock application is that the "Idle" enrichment is not as critical to 'smooth running and transition' as WOT contacts are. If your idle contact isn't getting a contact signal, and doesn't enrich then it's not a big deal, the car will still idle. But if you don't have WOT, and go WOT significantly before 3500rpms, you will have a significant delay in throttle response, and experience lean surging sometimes---more acute when it's cold. I can't recall offhand if the idle switch is opened or closed at idle either, which would add another dimension. But that is the general idea how the KA TP Switch with one contact works in place of the stock ECCS or EFI TP Switch with TWO sets of contacts (while there may indeed be three sets of contacts, only two of them are used: idle and WOT)

With a 1500 Single Port the 62 Microbus with reduction gears will only go about 65mph tops anyway! Doing that, basically flatfooted from Tawas to Saginaw for a Ted Nugent Concert one summer, my mileage was about 24mpg (I still have the records actually...)And that was with 5 guys in the bus along with various accouterments de concertiphilia. It shocked me that I could put DUAL CARBS, a BIGGER engine, and get BETTER gas mileage at a HIGHER speed! (The bus would go 75+ with the 1641 and return as stated 24mpg. If I restricted it to the former driving speeds of 55-65 tops, the thing got 27mpg!!!) The PICT should give you 20-24 between 50-60mph. Not as much as a Beetle for sure, but better than just about anything else with that kind of cargo capacity. When I ran the gasoline heater during the winter, the mileage on the freeway went down 2mpg, which was acceptable to me because I like driving in a T-Shirt at -35 and watching all the guys bundled up in Down Coats in their Impalas and New Yorkers look at me with steam rising from their cups as I quaffed ice-cold Mt. Dew from the big styro cup from Forwards in Standish... I used to transport juvenile offenders in that bus. The guys on Pasadena Street in Flint always got a charge out of the irony of miscreant youth being delivered in a Microbus. 'Hey man what did you do, trick them into that hippie bus then lock em up and take em here?' I have to admit, it probably was a pretty bizarre sight!

Yep, the 3800 is an amazing engine, with lots of torque so you can gear accordingly. First time I got one in a Regal I was shocked. I commented that 'it accelerates like it's angry at something!' For years I lamented the GEN2 3800 was not an option in the V6 Mustang! Gawd Ford's V6 sucked compared to the GM 3800!!! For YEARS. They finally got it right this past year...kinda!

They are longer by 5mm, the thickness of the support.

Yeah, my bus with a 1641 and Engle 110 Cam running Dual ICT's would be consistently in the 28-30mpg range freeway if I kept it at 55-65mph (which was BETTER than the 1500CC Single Port with the 28PICT single carb!!!) Of course, commuting in SoCal at 75 consistently it got 24 and wouldn't go below that... In town it was a bit better than 15, but the ICT's are smaller than the Kadrons, and without a CW Crank I had to limit it to 4500-5000 going through the gears, and I'm sure that helps immeasurably on the mileage in-town compared to the 1776 I had in there with a CW Crank and 44IDF's! Running to 7500 between shifts in two tends to kill the off-highway mileage...

As long as you got a federal license to transmit microwaves you can have and operate it...muahahahhaha!

My stock 260Z is set up a bit rich, and will not break under 20mpg unless I'm racing or on the highway at an average speed over 100mph. And even then, it still gets 19mpg!!! Normal commuting on the 60 FWY into L.A. at 65-85 for 50 miles averages 22-24mpg on premium. If I get the time, there is an LD28 that is just calling to go into that 77 chassis I have in the back. That would average mid 40's for MPG...

Take the hot wire from the Fuel pump relay going to the back of the car (there is a power and ground.)You want to bypass the fuel pump modulator on the negative side of the stock fuel pump, take that wire directly to ground, and do not use the harness back to the front of the car---or bypass the modulator in the kick panel. Attach these wires to the coil and ground connections of TWO 30A (or suitable) relays fed off suitable sized (I used circuit-breakered 10 gauge from the positive post on the battery) to the common switched terminal on the relay, then run from each relay's switched output terminal to each of the pumps (I ran 12 gauge wire)---I grounded the pumps locally to an isolated buss bar that connects both to the chassis and via an 8 Gauge wire back to the negative post on the battery. Basically you set up the stock fuel pump relay to trigger two larger relays that are fed by a REAL wire to the back of the car without a lot of power drop. Even on a stock pump, you can hear the thing spin faster because the power drop from the front of the car to the back is negligible. That, and at idle you don't have the modulator slowing the pump down to keep it quiet (it will get loud if you don't have sufficient fuel bypass capacity, btw.) The stock modulator really slows down the pump to decrease fuel flow...keeping it quieter. It's pretty simple, mine is probably overkill on wiring sizes, but I wasn't sure what pump I would eventually run. This setup runs dual Porsche Pumps, plus the boost pump to the surge tank. (Yeah, you got it, substitute "three" for "two" in the above instructions! It's JDM old-school technology....leastwise that's where I picked it up!) It works nicely when you ditch the stock ECCS and go to real standalone ECU for proper fueling!

The CHP Criteria is listed in the CVC, which is online if you're interested in how they do it. You're in CA, so if you want to know what your setup will test at if called upon for a CHP roadside check, you can duplicate it pretty easily. dB Limits in CA Link The '50 Foot from Centerline' Rule My Favorite Section (e)!

At that time, Blow-Through Mikuini 44's. Now with the ITB's it's Megasquirt.

Wow, those are under $100 at PYP in SoCal off any of the Buick GENIII Supercharged cars...

Replies/Comments below: So I picked up a 1990 KA24E throttle body and TPS (TPS basically brand new) for $50 on craigslist for my 76 280z. I plan on going megasquirt and turbo, so I figured this is a step in the right direction, and something to keep me busy. I did a ton of searching and found a bunch of info scattered around about 240sx TB/TPS but figured I would try to combine some of the info here, as well as present a work-around for repositioning the TPS. This way, the stock wiring does not have to be extended or modified. The only KA24 Switch that will do that is the one with the pigtail on it from the first couple of years---the Transmission used the two-position switch same as the previous models, while the potentiometer SENSOR is used for fuel control on the ECCS. You can then hook the SWITCH to the stock ECU in the car, while datalogging with the Megasquirt hooked to the potentiometer sensor. - From what I found, the 280z uses a two switch TPS that has idle, off, and full throttle (white TPS below). At idle and full throttle, the computer adjusts gas flow accordingly. Not really, at idle it enriches the fuel curve, at WOT (above 35% throttle position) it enriches the fuel curve by putting it on a pre-programmed 'WOT' map... In the off position, (when neither switch is closed) no gas is flowing.No If I understand the 280z EFI theory manual correctly, the gas is only turned off after the full throttle switch has been closed, and is then opened (as if the car is decelerating from full throttle to coasting).You are describing fuel-cut, and that is in operation when the IDLE contact closes above XXXX Rpms, which then allows the reduction of emissions and a GREAT bump in fuel economy. At XXXX rpms, it starts the injectors working again. I dont think it would make much sense to turn off the fuel if you go directly from idle to coast, never touching the full throttle switch. Maybe somebody can clarify this part for me.Above, hopefully. Use the 'EFI Bible' for more in-depth explanations than what are in the later manuals. This book was designed to introduce 'carburettor generation mechanics' to the basics of the Bosch EFI system (it is very similar to the original 68 VW Training Materials...) - The automatic 240sx TPS only has one switch, the idle switch, you are either idling or you are not (red TPS below). The pigtail hanging off is a different signal than what Z cars use and is useful for megasquirt and other aftermarket EFI systems as it continuously varies resistance (voltage) with throttle position using a potentiometer. Explained above, if you want to run the stock ECU while working on the MS, you have to use one of those dual TPS units. The SWITCH section goes to the stock ECU or ECCS, while the potentiometer SENSOR goes to the Megasquirt. 280zx (only turbo I believe) also uses a two position switch, so the auto 240zx TPS can be used as a replacement. However, it seems some 280z owners have managed to use the 240sx TPS with varying degrees of success. They replace the KA24 TPS (which is usually NOT the pigtail-type, and replace the Throttle Position SENSOR assembly with the existing Throttle Position SWITCH off their current T/B. It appears to be well known that the 60mm TB by itself does basically nothing for performance, however it MAY increase throttle response. No 'may', the relative flow increase relative to tip-in throttle angle change is greater, giving the impression of a larger throttle movement in a 50mm body. Same 'tuning' is why an Explorer has a humongo TB and the Mustang with the same engine has a MUCH smaller T/B---in the heavy Explorer, you get a FEELING that the engine has a LOT more power, but if you had the Mustang Throttle Body on it, if you just mashed the throttle to 3/4 it woiuld feel like the Explorer T/B moving from idle to 1/4...after that the physics of flow take over, and the engine only flows what it can flow, so the great tip-in jump quickly falls flat on it's face relative to an engine with REAL power behind it! It will definitely help if you plan on doing forced induction, stand-alone EFI with MAP (eliminating the z's restrictive AFM), porting head/intake, or any combination of these.I'd question 'definately'---the 50mm T/B will flow more than enough CFM to supply even pretty high performance engines. It's all butt-dyno impressions for the most part... It makes sense to start from intake/filter and work your way toward the head to gain the most performance for your money. One issue with using the 60mm 240sx TB is that it rotates the TPS 180 degrees, so that the plug is now facing the front of the car when it is mounted in a Z. If you are still using the stock EFI, this forces you to extend or somehow modify your TPS wiring. Hmmmm, this was not an issue on my car... I will have to go back and see, maybe I cut the pigtail for the T/B off the harness at the clamp at the middle of the plenum to gain more distance...I don't recall having to add any wires... Looking at the throttle body itself, I found away around this issue. It may be debatable as to which is more work, but since I hate messing with wires, and stock wiring, I decided to give this a shot. Sounds like a lot of work compared to at most adding a pigtail (which likely is required on most stock harnesses anyway!)

Welding a steel halfcoupling of proper NPT size will allow you to reconnect the EGR keeping everything looking like it works. If you drill a hole in the header in the center of the half-coupling, the EGR will actually function...the size of the hole you drill will determine how much of a percentage of EGR you get compared to the stock system. I used Swagelok Tubing Fittings in 316 Stainless, as well as some 0.500" x 0.035" walled 316 Stainless Tubing to reconnect my EGR, but I took the gas from a much lower pressure area...cooler too (Though incorporating one of the new diesel EGR coolers has been on my mind a lot lately!)

It's standard JDM Extractor... Those are the standard piping sizes with a dump to a double GoJu Pipe.

On the 105 dB, what was the measuring criteria? Was it the CHP test (the one they do when they pull you over in California for 'excessive noise'?) HOW you measure the noise is very subjective. Is there a link to the original test you did so I can read on the process you used?

"Overall, I think the main problem I had was with warpage of the pan, and an inability to apply even torque pressure to the pan flange. Carefully straightening the flange, then installing the custom flange brackets made the difference" That is what it comes down to! Warped pan and oil on the mating surfaces. The Ultra Black (similar to 598) is more tolerant of oil than any of the other silicones 598 was specifically designed for this service. If you can't find Ultra Black, your local Loctite Vendor should be able to get you 598.

Yeah, more than enough at -6! Vent lines are really oversized -- if you are careful filling up above 3/4 tank and trickle it in compared to a full-on flow from the nozzle, I've gotten by with using 3/8 and 1/4" vent lines for everything, and totally remove the 15mm stuff altogether! Only 15mm I have are stubs from the tank to hold the nylon adapters to drop the size to 3/8 or whatever. I used standard fuel line then instead of that nissan braided/molded hoses. Have pressurized the tank above 5psi to remove dents with that setup!!!

Pull the O2 Sensor right at shutdown, watch the hole for smoke; sniff it while it cools down. The scent of carbonising oil dripping into a hot exhaust turbine is pretty unmistakable. If it's leaking bad enough, (big puff on 30 second shutdown?!?!?) you will likely see smoke pouring out of the O2 Sensor hole if it's close enough. You will smell it for sure.

Everybody who saw our engine said "I've never seen a press-fit pin do that before! With the cost of the block prep, adding buttons 'just in case' was what we decided to do. We did NOT do a traditional pin button like you would on a floater. These do NOT contact the cylinder walls. They are an "insurance policy" should they move again. We couldn't determine why they moved, and the small-end was still at-spec (as were the piston pin bores...requiring normal heat and a press to get them back out!) They moved to where they were with the engine running, and then stayed there once the contacted the cylinder walls (in the process scoring them 0.080"!!!) We have not had a pin move yet since, and the 2L is capable of, and has run over 2500 rpms higher than the L28. The decision was made to put them in on the L20A because suitable blocks are few and far between--they are stock 1998CC's, and overboring is not possibly without a corresponding destroke on the crank... Meaning you got a matched crank and block that can't go anywhere else. With the new block we have on the new L20A, it's a standard/standard setup, not 0.020 overbore and destroked crank with undersized bearings. Unless you are doing...ahhhh...10,000 rpms+ for 5 or 6 miles at a time with pressed pins I don't think you will need them. No, it's not a typo.

I find running a 160F thermostat really helps in the summer months. So did Nissan, they specified it for 'Tropical' environments. Some underhood components are over 40F cooler with a 160 thermostat than with a 180 or 190!

Define "Better" all I've seen so far is differences, nothing making it particularly "Better" for any stated application. If durability is the goal, some would make the argument the earlier the L28 block, the better. "Newest" doesn't necessarily mean 'Best' automatically.

Other than the return line being humongo... don't see why it wouldn't work. Or why it wouldn't simply go back into the tank at the 15mm fitting instead. I don't see why a -6 return isn't sufficient size, personally, but how ever you want to do it.

No, Yes.

We ran Isky springs, and changed them every so often. But we weren't running 7300rpms either. Well, maybe that's when the cam started pulling hard!