Tony D
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Posts posted by Tony D
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To Gollums experiences---I thank him for posting and independently confirming what I've tried to tell people for years: an EFI car SHOULD PASS without a cat (at least the older cars with original compliance criterion.) This was an extreme example, and it shows the importance of making the EFI work like it's supposed to work! My original exposure to this was a Master ASE Tech who was involved with OEM calibrations, and mentioned that when testing Saab's it was very difficult to properly diagnose a bad cat---they simply ran so clean (this was BAR90 Days) that it was nearly impossible to tell when it 'went off'...
To the B16, the ECU was the big change. Unfortunately he never drove it around long enough to determine the odor reduction before putting the catalyst on it. Does one SMELL NOx? In the early days, the compounds in fuel (sulphur) really made a bad name for Catalysts because the cars were horridly smelly on startup due to sulphur contamination of the catalyst bed being burnt off when you started the car (and you can still smell it these days going up a long hill behind catalyzed cars, you can tell who buys cheap high-sulfur fuel when behind them!!!) Again, a catalyst is not really a 'scrubber' it doesn't really work all the time, it's a transient mask. The biggest fume problem on S30's is from lack of proper Fuel Cut on decel... And guys that remove dashpots which 'never do much anyway' but in reality make HUGE reductions in drop-throttle HC emissions. I can drive with the windows down on the 260 running like a madman and be fine...drop throttle because of a slow mover in the fast lane and WOOOH! Yeah, there's HC!
Really, it can come down to which fuel you are buying! Changing brands on my Corvair made a BIG difference with no change in Fuel Mix! With brand XX it would smell terrible at idle and make your eyes water. But Brand XXX was like a steam bath. No explanation, I'm not a fuels chemist. But something was passing through. Either brand passed smog back then--so it wasn't a pollutant that was tested for... and so might be the 'odors' many people complain about in the S30.
As for this: "cop noticed the AFR gauge and knew that was illegal in most cases"
What cases makes an AFR gauge illegal? Not in the Great State of California unless it is so mounted to obstruct the forward view of the driver from the vehicle...
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Wow, all those years carrying a caliper into the junkyard for identifying parts was useless and I should have been using a Starett Dial Bore Gauge all along.
Oh, BTW, how do you know what range standards to install into the precision dial bore gauge to determine those cylinder measurements???
Oh, let me guess, you 'eyeball it' and then select one of the 6 mics in the Inside Mic set to check it...
See where I'm going with this? I don't know of any shop that doesn't have at least a 6" Caliper on hand for the myriad quick measurements you need to do every day in a machine shop that doesn't require accuracy to 0.0005"
And that is what we're talking about here. This isn't a problem with the tool he's using, it's a problem with if he even knows what he's measuring in the first place.
Frankly, for novices, I think the cheap digital calipers is a GREAT tool to buy. As long as they learn to zero it wit hthe jaws closed before measuring whatever, they will be FAR more accurate than using a tape measure, or comparable dial gauge, micrometer, or other tool that requires training and skill to read properly and use accurately.
4MM is not a jaw misalignment issue. This is a 'what the hell did he measure to come up with that?' issue.
I might add that the "T-Gauges" aren't marked with size, you will need something else to measure them when it's out...like a digital caliper! The prior comment on the measurement of the bore top being for all intents and purposes the same as the bottom still stands. You can do an I.D. with the caliper, or an O.D. and compare...but for rough approximation closer than 90.5 versus 86mm you can do that with a caliper. I'm betting money he measured the I.D. of the Head Gasket Fire Ring and not a cylinder bore.
But he hasn't weighed in since...so this is another troll-post I guess. No you-tube video, nothing....
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It was all said in the previous thread.
Many times an engineering solution is applied that masks other true root causes...
You want to add weight to mask a root cause, have at it. Who am I to stop you?
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And the shop we should avoid is...
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Adjustment of the float height was not what you needed to do, unsticking and cleaning of the needle and seat was what you needed to do.
That is, if your fuel pressure is correct.
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It's not really clear, it could mean L28 vs L31 turbo, but I don't see why one would ask that one, eh?
"350 Chevy or 454?" Same vein, huh...
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I've glued the gasket to the pan for decades. Use Anti-Seize on the block. Keeps any cleaning restricted to something off the car and easily put on the bench.
Loctite 598 (Black) is a good silicone for that use, Ultra-Grey is similar. Do not use 736 or 732, it is not what it was meant for, both Black and Grey are designed with the thought of continual hot oil contact, and possibly oily residue on the mating surfaces.
READ THE DIRECTIONS CAREFULLY AND FOLLOW THEM!
For cleanup, you are likely going to need a chisel to break the oil pan off the block (and then have to straighten it afterwards), and use something like "Chisel Gasket Remover" which is a spray-on methelyene chloride based aerosol to remove the residues. Spray it on, give it a few seconds and then wipe if off.
I've had no issues with gaskets where I had to resort to silicone only. If they say it will stop the leak, then hold them to it. You don't let them do the work the way they want to do it, they can always use it to deny any further warranty against leakage or other issues that may creep up in the future.
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Other than the slip joint yoke on the rear of the tranny---is there any differences that would keep one from doing the conversion with the 91 box, and then simply changing the front yoke and upgrading to the later box when you find one?
I found no less than 3 91 240SX's in line at the JY, and the pickins was easy. There was an obvious difference in gear sizes between the existing L-Based boxes . They were all destined for street cars anyway, so it was more a matter of practical finding of a 5 speed that would supplant what I had, more than big power handling. Though the ability to swap to turbo without much fuss was in the back of my head.
If an S14 and later box swap is just a yoke away...hell, I'm there. I'll just be a bit more specific on which I harvest. But three in one day filled my needs for the moment!
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I don't exactly know that he was asking 2.8 Turbo -vs- 3.1 Turbo...that would be a no-brainer.
I believe the OP was questioning 3.1 Stroker N/A -vs- 2.8 Turbo
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91 240SX box worked for me...cheap at PYP too!
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glad to see someone using the 'search feature' gets some use from my miscellaneous ramblings...
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What are the sizes of the fuel pickup and return lines?
That looks like a later model tank.
FYI: the JDM tank has all the same fittings as any US or Canadian model. They all had crankcase vapor accumulation.
The only tank that was different was the 100L unit, and you don't have one of those.
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String is never long enough when wrapping packages. It doesn't matter the size of the package, or what you think the length of the string is before you start. Once you wrap it all up and get to the final point of actually trying to place the two ends near each other to tie it all up...it's short.
So a piece of string is NEVER long enough. That is how long a piece of string is.
Next question?
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Some people call pistons, cylinders.
I've NEVER, since becoming involved in Internal Combustion Engine Work in the early 1970's, hears ANYBODY refer to pistons as cylinders. EVER.
Cylinders and Bores...yes.
Cylinders and Jugs...yes.
Cylinders and Pistons? No.
There is nothing wrong with using calipers to measure pistons, OR cylinders at the top---if it tapers that much (and remember we're talking L-Series Block here...) it's toast anyway. Whatever you measure at the top will for all intents and purposes be what you have at the bottom.
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Endmill works on MLS...
What you clamp it between is your business. I know what I use...
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The guys with their name on the Piston Company said "Never seen a pressed pin come out and touch a wall like that before, how high did you say you were revving this thing?"
Pressed Pins. Absolutes are a beyotch as some arsehole like me always is lurking as the exception. Be it old technology or not, it still works. People say you don't need Teflon Buttons on Press-Fit pins either...but wanna know someone who's got 'em in two running engines???
I might surmise that the 'fit' is something quantified by interference or clearance. Press-Fit pins are interference fit hence heating is required to get them in. Push-Fit are line-to-line and may be a set clearance in tens of thousandths of an inch. Full floating yet another range yet again. I remember specs somewhere.
But there are a lot of Datsun Engines out there with press-fit pins still hammering away after years of racing. Don't discount "old technology"--if it works, it works! Simplicity is it's own reward. I've heard of countless spiroloc failures...until our engine kissed off the block some 0.080" when the pins contacted I'd never heard of press fit pins failing and wrecking the block. And neither did the owners of several piston manufacturers! It was embarrassing, really "Oh, you're the guys with the press fit pistons that let go!" Argh!
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Helix, I agree! There was no mention of sanctioning bodies, racing, or anything. Just which would give downforce.
The obvious answer is 'they both do' but one does so more efficiently I.E. several hundred pounds of downforce without additional drag from traditional BRE-Style Spoiler (whale-tail)---this is borne out in the tunnel testing I believe.
And as you rightly stated, the big wing out back really acts as a lever lifting the front, so a 'balance' is needed--something to push that front back down. I believe the answer was a Whale Tail and G-Nose worked well. I don't remember the numbers offhand, but the MSA Type 3 worked well, but I'm not sure on it's front downforce numbers if they were as high as a G-Nose.
As I mentioned, John C linked to a very efficient wing for the back of the car and my comment was I don't know if I'd want that on my street car.
For as much as people pooh pooh drag versus downforce, realize that most interstate driving now occurs very close (within 20%) of the speeds where a lot of this stuff was 'terminal'---the ZXR wing gives 300# at 100mph... that's linear boys and girls, on the interstate at 80mph, that's like putting some sacks of concrete back there as ballast! But it doesn't affect transient handling. The Turbo Wing was the answer to traction problems at speed (boiling the tires at 70mph when boost comes on may be entertaining to some, but it's not very quick...) The choice then becomes 'Have Tony ride along as ballast to keep the rear end hooked up' or install the turbo wing so you have 240# on the back wheels at 80mph and no extra weight to accelerate.
Really for the street it comes to Asthetics I suppose. A wing is great because you can adjust it---problem is that 'balance thing' you have to balance the front end with whatever you do with the back end. One affects the other.
How this went O.T. to racing and that...well that came well before my first post in this thread. I'm not guilty in that one.
Simple answer: Whaletail gives fixed downforce, wing gives variable, and can be adjusted so a smaller airfoil effectively gives more downforce. But it comes as a function of drag. The Whaletail was high-downforce, low drag (oil cooler, actually) answer back in the day. There are more effective methods, but almost all come at a price of drag.
And at highway speeds today, drag means less fuel efficiency. A low drag, high downforce Whale Tail may be the answer. But he really didn't state what he was doing or why he needed it. I had to put the whaletail on mine due to traction at speed issues. JeffP is now in the same boat with his ZX. If it's low-speed slalom N/A power he's looking for, a high angle of attack wing could work really well. (Even around town.)
Short of him giving more information on why he wants/needs it...it's all conjecture!
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Your Contention:
"That's one car on one track, and shouldn't be used as a "spoilers make your car slower" proof."
My statement:
"Make that two cars, two tracks."
If facts of individual instances cause you that much problem I suggest medication.
You totally ignored the statement that comes after it, which is absolutely valid but doesn't fit your 'cookie cutter mentality of generalizations' apparently. Change my time slips and I'll change my statement. Otherwise it's as valid as your rant on parsing a statement that says if you are under 130, the BRE is O.K. but above that you should look for something else as IT WILL COST YOU ON AN S30.
(Is that paraprhasing better stated so you can understand what I actually said in my post, instead of what you decided to concentrate upon???)
Take a pill man. Focus.
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Not that it wouldn't be cool. But nobody actually did it!
It's like the Woody-Allen Sex Machine from "Sleepers" or Stallone and Bullock donning the little haloes and 'going at it'...
Simmin'? It's sinnin'!
DOING! That is the key.
Build the suit, and chase the guy down the hill on a bike recording it, then I'll be impressed.
For now, SimCity and Farmville. Bleah!
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Anybody remember 1785HP turbo fours running in F1?
I do.
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"Forged pistons will never have a press fit pin design its old technology and floating is a far superior foot print for pin bore design."
Wow, I don't have press-fit forged pistons in my Bonneville car. Whooda thunkit?
"NEVER" say 'never'...
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Are we calling the piston the cylinder? As bore and cylinder are the same thing...normally.
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All I can say is there are engineering reasons for everything, and many times symptoms of one thing are masked by application of another.
For all the talk we shot to the E-Motive guys, driving to a given end, the answers we got back steered us somewhere else we never expected.
Detonation causes terrible crank harmonics.
If you don't detonate....
Detonation, combustion chamber design?
Cylinder Head Cooling.
There are guys in Japan now making L-Girdles for drag racing because the RB's have them, and the L28 doesn't.
And I believe this is where the thread started....four bolt mains because Chevy's got 'em?
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Who went down a pass? Someone simulated doing it. I think I'm with Cannonball, I'd rather do it in my Z....for real.
Now, if the guy really skeletoned down 330 from Big Bear to Highland...that would be a different matter.
Need help on CAM shaft selection
in Nissan L6 Forum
Posted
If you aren't buying springs, you are limited to around 460" lift, making your question academic until knowing which springs to buy. You stated a drop in cam from what I inferred, that means no springs, and no springs means nothing over 460 or 470. This is all in the archives.