Tony D
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Posts posted by Tony D
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Yep, and with the Turbo...
Well the L20E had the same HP rating as the L28E, but with a torque advantage and the ability to 'tune via boost'
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OK, two cars and two tracks. The BRE/OEM style spoiler cost us 3mph compared with simple ballast in the spare tire well.
Frankly we went much quicker without the spoiler, as we could add more ballast to get equivalent downforce on the wheels without the drag penalty of the kick-tail.
Most of the original stuff was designed to work at speeds below 125mph---they give maximum downforce at the expense of drag. This is discussed in detail elsewhere. John C posted a typical low-drag spoiler configuration that works great, but I wouldn't put it on my street-car...
I see now driver-adjustable wings are back and legal in F1 again... If they are so great, why make them adjustable? Because on the straights you don't need nearly as much downforce as you do in a turn. A fixed spoiler is always a compromise. Always.
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Oh, thats so ridiculous! Cabana Havana la cucaracha mi dio madrona antipasto fuerte las tortugas! Lucy what did you do, why you take it to heem?
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Apparently nobody has seen these sitting halfway down the strut shaft because the center hole was malformed....
I'm having a very difficult time 'visualizing' what you are describing as an 'assembly difficulty'---is this making another assumption that the larger diameter of the item in question must positively be seated against something during asembly or use?
I might buy Beerman's 'spreading' theory...but the comment on sprung vs unspring is dubious--the thing grabs the shaft and will ALWAYS be at the top of the shaft if you bottom the suspension continually. The aren't 'supposed' to move---and if they do you usually see them someplace mid-shaft as I described above.
Anyone else? Bueller?
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JDM bumpers are the same heavy pieces we have here in the US of A, no weight savings there!
If it's saving weight you want, it's the Euro Bumpers and brackets (not shocks) you want. They are diminsionally identical to the JDM and US Market bupers, you won't know you have them on there unless you look underneath. It's basically a sheetmetal C-Channel to hold the plastic bumper cover in place, and a couple of sheetmetal brackets to hold the c-channel/bumper covers in place!
Mark well the advice about how fast you want to go, get to a given speed and you get booted from the track till you comply with safety regs. "Unless you know someone in a private track rental group..."
Don't laugh, $500 a day to make almost as many runs as you want with no 'imperial entanglements' is appealing to some!!!
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No need to push those pins, when that piston got set down I used an Oz Colloquial Expression "FH!"
Someone will have some interesting skirt wear patterns using that 'unique' 'offset boring technique'...
From that point it's all 'piling on'---that alone renders them useless IMO. I'd not use them. And I'd be stopping by WalMart for some disposable hickory!
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Good news, I was going to say I noticed you said 'newer' plug wires, and not 'new'...
Misfires can cause hell with marginal engines, it did with mine! Checked my 'new looking' wires and was shocked to see (er..) how many failed the ohm check requirements!
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Chances are between slim and none that he has an OE Nissan Sport Option Wheel, unless of course he's selling from Japan or Western Europe.
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Feeding a rotary lobe or screw compressor is a different thing than feeding a centrifugal compressor or reciprocating one.
An engine is basically a reciprocating compressor.
On lobe style compressors (blowers) the dynamics of lowest inlet restriction come into play and really affect how the boost comes onto the engine off-idle. It also radically effects pressure ratio across the compressor, a few inches of water column restriction in a single stage compressor going from 'atmospheric' to 15psi can, through simple gas law calculations show an increase of alarming porportion. Not good if detonation avoidance and charge density is your goal.
It also makes a different in transient boost buildup. The smaller delta-change of a larger body will result in a screw or roots blower going from neutral pressure to full boost in a couple of rotor revolutions. Choke that down and the boost coming on is 1) slower in a transient respect and 2) limited by HEAT production due to the above mentioned phenomenon.
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Webcam is off the 60 in Riverside, almost Moreno Valley.
Isky is off Gardena north of the 91, east of the 110, south of the 105.
El Inca Racing Cams is on the corner of PCH and Alameda.
Take your pick, they are ALL 'local' to ElMonte
Not all N42's were dish topped, mine isn't. It's a 1977 Cedric Company Car with and N42 head that has no EFI bungs cut in the ports. The preponderance of JDM engines sold as replacements in California makes any 'find' more a question of where the engine in the car came from. If it's pre 78, you can check the engine SN against the Engine Data plate on the strut tower. If they don't match, chances are good it's a replacement from somewhere and not necessarily any 'performance' anything. Just different.
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Funny you should mention copper as not being easy to match port. The developmental gasket is custom ported and is just that: copper. It was a lot easier to port that than say, a multi-layer steel or even a stock gasket with print-o-seal rings.
But that Nissan Comp Gasket. That was frberous, and wasn't doing anything but sealing oil and water. The Gas-Rings sealed the combusion chamber.
The point being, if one were to port match the head to the block, cutting larger holes in the gasket in that case would be a snap. Like anything on the head, the block, the oil pump...if you want it to flow more, you need to make it flow, it doesn't come that way from the factory!
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Again, 'how much are you planning on making'?
We do have a persistent oil leak at the rear of the engine, but that may be due to using a 160,000 mile rear main seal...
Or improper PCV action.
There are many variables to take into account. I would think 'block twist' is reaching out there for a reason when no toehr testing has been done. Really, with modern sealants or even old gaskets proper installation is taken for granted, but is rarely the case in practice!
E-Motive ran without a stud girdle...
So much of this stuff is done 'because the other guy did it' and little thought is put toward the actual engineering basis for it!
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I think what Miro-San said has been twisted a bit. I don't see what he said was that he duplicated the N42, merely that he used it as a basis and designed the gasket to be interchangable.
Again, Mark (Oz Connection) has 'universal fit' gaskets which have a part number from Nissan and they have FAR more holes than either individual originally had. Looks similar to the pictured N4221 above but as I recall the part number had some "XX" in it, which was strange.
Regarding what gasket to use...I believe it was mentioned that someone had some $$$ tied up into a head gasket which is universal in application and isn't like ANY of those pictured. But there are block and head modifications (not rocket science here) that GREATLY increase the flow capability.
What was the gas-ring Nissan Comp gasket made of? How easy is it to matchport a gasket...
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somthinn aint rightaboutdis, lucy...
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ANY three spoke Nissan Wheel is not 'rare'...
You want rare? Try the Nissan Sports Option four-spoke steering wheel.
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The second picture is of the right way, You want the smaller thinner end down.
Just for the sake of argument---why?
How does the position affect the progressive dampening function of the snubber?
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pops out? Synchro time...
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It's an aftermarket part--you got took by a lying salesman.
They are commonly available and the manufacturer "Dai Ichi" (er... "#1") manufactured them for NGK who also had a set of translucent wires available.
In America it may be considered 'rare', but so is a Borgward Station Wagon. It doesn't mean it's worth anything extra, though!
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Who He? Nothing he did was remotely related to the Z-Car or the L-Engine.
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I meant exactly what I posted: the L-Block with unaltered stud configuration has run well over 1000HP.
The rod you threw, that was #5 right?
That's an oiling problem, not a main cap problem. They all let go at #5, and seem to want to spin #1 first.They make stud girdles, but again the question is "How much are you planning on making?"
At 780+ to the rear wheels and countless hours on the dyno there were no issues with main or rods in that engine. And all that one has is ARP's. Which seems to be a cheap standard performance build part, not due to any particular 'weakness'---the only weakness (if it is one) is the rod bolts. And that solution has been known since the 70's.
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The points mentioned, are all valid. Guys at a distributor mechanic level can surmise all they want about why whatever was done, they likely aren't engineers, haven't studied thermodynamics, and usually are basing their assumptions on very limited (bliners on) scope of problems they may be seeing.
Of everything mentioned, NewZed likely has the best 'general' answer.
MArk (OzConnection) I believe has some current NON-USA (Nissan OEM) "Universal L-Engine Head Gaskets" with FAR more holes on them, which are specified for universal application.
They aren't required to meet US emissions outside the USA, take a look at 'universal fittment' replacment service parts outside the USA and you start realizing they did things here, and it wasn't for performance.
REMEMBER: These gaskets were for low-specific output engines. Not high-performance engines (which I surmise is what we are talking about here... something more powerful than the average bear...) Long and short of it, if it seals and doesn't leak get as much flow to the head as you can get. Period.
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OVER 1000 Hp.
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The dyno testing we did under load says otherwise, increasing flow to the head seemed to carry more heat out more efficiently than the original gasket configuration with restricted flow to the head.
The gaskets restrict flow INTO the head, not out. That causes spot-boiling---look at any industrial exchanger and you will see unrestricted FEED side lines, and any throttling for temperature control is done on the OUTLET of the heat exchanger!
Same goes for the L-Head: get as much water as you can into it, then play with getting it out. Restricting flow on the inlet side is not good as it can contribute to cavitation, etc.
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search? watchoo b talkin bout willis? who b have time fo dat? imma b postin my Q dawg, cos i gots no time b searchin!
That's an oiling problem, not a main cap problem. They all let go at #5, and seem to want to spin #1 first.
So I'm acquiring a $400 Datsun 521, don't know if it was worth it
in Non Tech Board
Posted
Shorten the bed, extend the cab---a six inch channel should do it. While you're at it, put the seats on the floor and you can probably do a 2 or 3" Chop to the top....