Tony D

There are actually little torque attachments available for around $80 that will turn any breaker bar into a torque wrench. They read out the torque as you approach your setpoint and then give an audible tone and light a series of LEDs to indicate final numbers. Using one of them with one end clamped in a vice will tell you, and they are strain gauge-based so not as prone to stray as springs and click mechanisims. (Basically the same internals, though not as precise or calibrated as the device Neotech84 posted.) I have one for each smaller size drive: 1/4, 3/8, 1/2" When I travel overseas, I tend to take these three instead of torque wrenches, because though Distributors are SUPPOSED to have the proper tools for precision work, in Asia sometimes this isn't the case. It lets me get comfortable with the torque wrench they have, or make one out of their breaker bar. As for 'feeling the correct torque' I had a manager who thought the same way "A good mechanic doesn't need a torque wrench." My retort was that I hoped he felt the same way when the plane falls out of the sky... Click Wrenches have drawbacks...

Despite the contentions here, I'm going to say 'WRONG' again. If you cover 1/10th of the radiator surface and effectively force all the CFM through that equally across the radiator in the direction of flow you will cool the engine. Your example is ludicrous on it's face, and having a shroud has nothing to do with it. It is NOT a necessary addition to a properly sized fan. A shroud HELPS efficiency, but is not REQUIRED. As I said in the original post you objected to: IF YOU DON'T HAVE ADEQUATE CFM YOU WILL OVERHEAT. (A shoroud will NOT change that fact! If you have MARGINAL flow, a shroud may prolong the agony but will not FIX anything!) I stand by that statment. For an equally ludicrous rebuttal to your million CFM 1/10th coverage example I proffer this: 100CFM Bathroom Exhaust Fan, FULLY SHROUDED TO THE RADIATOR WITH 100% PASS THROUGH AND NO LEAKS. This car will overheat. It will likely overheat at idle even at temperatures down to 40F due to insufficient flow across the radiator.

Two switches, separate circuits and relays. Low speed fan comes on at 170F (with 160F thermostat), High fan comes on at 180F Anything later than that, and likely the head will have 'runaway' going on with steam bubbles forming and insulating the cooling system (see KTM's comments on the matter.) Most people don't understand that on most cars once the temperature reaches around 180F 185F there are steam pockets already forming in the head which make it almost impossible to 'catch up' regardless of the fan CFM or huge-o-matic radiator. To combat that you either need to increase block pressure (speed up pump) or run a higher static pressure (24# cap). You will find 'troubled cooling systems' seem to become 'trouble free' if you don't get them to the steam-pocket formation temperature. If you do intend to run 180F thermostat or above there for a fan cut in, do yourself a BIG favor and get a 24# radiator cap!

Last Statement BJ says is CORRECT! A 73 240Z already incorporated many improvements that were 'refined'. The long and short of it to the OP's question is "buy the latest model you can get" it incorporates the most comprehensive FACTORY ENGINEERED SAFETY SYSTEM. Anything done aftermarket by an individual is VERY limited, and is within the realm of what I mentioned above. You can't make a silk purse out of a sow's ear. It's a post 67 FMVSS Engineered Chassis, it is lightyears ahead of ANYTHING designed before that standard existed. It addressed most of the glaring 'fashionable' deathtrap features prevalent in most vehicles of the time. Frankly, Safety Circa 1967 is good enough for me. I'll spend my time AVIODING the wreck, and making my car capable of AVOIDING a wreck. If I do wreck (as shown by the photos posted earlier in this thread) I know the vehicle will do what it is supposed to do to protect me. I daily drive a 1974 260Z to work, my backup is a 1976 FAIRLADY Z 2/2---less safe than the 74 US model (I've removed the hack-job federalization stuff!) but still just as safe as a 1970 240Z. That's good enough for me.

Likely not since it's raining like nothing. But that doesn't stop the timer on when the cars get crushed. All it means is it goes to the crusher a bit more complete than it would have otherwise. Such is life in SoCal. We crush cars others would kill to own. And we laugh when someone spends $5000+ in rust repair on ANY S30 as it far cheaper to simply fly out and buy one and ship it than do that crap! But people won't listen, so you get what we have here this week...

His name is "Ron" he works at Isky, ask for him when you call for 'Technical Assistance'... Does this really need to be said? As for "Lobe Center"---how do they define it. As you see on the Isky Grinds a proper assymetric grind will have some very strange characteristics, and you have to get defined what the individual grinder calls 'lobe center'. Rebello uses Elgin grinds, and if you call Elgin you will be directed to Dave. Dave will not give specifics. Been there, done that. Curious how much overlap Isky has huh? Matches well with what Racer Brown had to say? Street Engine? Seriously, Talk with Ron, Ray. You will come away amazed. Tell him what you want, and what you have, and then listen and learn. Oh, and all the Roller Rocker compnents, drawings, and technical/engineering data formerly at Malvern Racing are "out of circulation" with someone on the board who is working with several manufacturers on development of cams for some applications. FYI the Roller Rockers used at Malvern were not 1.5 ratio, either, so the numbers for that cam would in no way be comparable to anything you had for stock rockers.

hey what do I get for 3 of four correct? I knew it was "001", but couldn't rembmer if it was 6001 or 1006 (as you have seen in the past my numbers will get transposed from time to time) 1001 is X length 6001 will be a different length but not by much, maybe 25mm overall. When you compare them to the Cannon they can be really close, or an inch shorter. And they are never as short as a Mikuini. Closest there is the TWM which apparently is now made by someone other... 3 of the 4 assuredly is good for something, a commerative stamp, an LD28 Pan modified for the S30 chassis? Something!

You can tell exactly why it's in there by what is written on the windshield. Likely it was towed under a nusiance or blighted area ordinance. It has nothing to do with people 'not knowing what they have' it has everything to do with the laws that say inoperable vehicles are illegal to have on your property if they are in public view from the street.

The point being that from the ultimate goal of driver survivability, the answer would be 'nothing'... The softening of what you will hit, and decreasing acceleration distances is it. Everything else is external and affecting external forces that might hit the car---they all come under 'defensive additions' DRL's, Ships Fog Horns, strobes in the brake lights, head lights that act as flamethrowers, LPG Blowtorches that incinerate would-be carjackers... All these things prevent the WRECK or aim to AVOID the wreck (and it's 'wreck') Point being on additional sheetmetal 'known weakpoints' --- it's all opinion. I don't know but one KNAF Licensed Roll Cage Structural Engineer on this forum, and he has not contributed. If you are going to obsess about every possible impact, you car going to miss the point of vehicle design. You must design for the most LIKELY impacts. Offset frontal, Frontal, Side Impact each is a compromise. in short, yo uaren't going to do anything spectacular to change anything on a car that is already eminently survivable. All you will do is 'cushion the blow' somewhat more. Really, that should be the limit of your focus. Start dicking around with structural things without knowing damn well what you are doing and chances are better that you will make something deadly out of something which formerly was simply injurious.

Mrs Nugent did NOT like my 45 second troubleshooting technique... She installed problems in a circuit that was at the END of the 6 foot long wiring diagram. Many symptoms, all identified by the basic 30 second steps at startup. Sat back, thought 'what do all these points have in common' and they all went to the star ground out about 5' 9" from the starting point of the circuit on the wiring diagram. First thing I did (in violation of how we were 'supposed' to do it) was go to the start point and check it. Bad. Walked up "The star point is bad." Shocked and more than a bit angry because she was going to 'teach me' she says "How did you come up with that so fast?" It's the only common point for the six failures this unit is experiencing. "You didn't do that the right way! You didn't troubleshoot the circuts!" Why, they all go to the same point. I'd fix that point, and recheck operation. If it's fixed, I'm done, if it's not THEN I'll check individual circuits that have problems remaining. It was hard to argue with the logic. I was told to sit down. Others went on troubleshooting 'the right way'...I knew then my time in the USAF may be harder than I thought...

An external vacuum log makes more sense. it becomes VERY difficult to properly mixture adjust at idle when a balance tube is not removable. As for checking vacuum on each cylinder---what does it tell you? That you have to pull a valve cover or plug for further diagnosis if it's low? As for 'hot cam and one log brake booster' think about what you are saying Ray..... At high rpm, when you need to use the brakes, are you at WOT? Does the vacuum not jump sky-high when the throttle is even slightly closed? Repetitive brake application in a parking lot at idle may cause booster related issues. But few and far between. On the road, the single pickup works just fine. There's a reason only one is used...it works and keeps the casting cheap! (and more to the point, thinking the same thing 20 years ago I hooked them all up thinking brake booster performance will be improved....I couldn't tell anything different.)

Mechanical Engineer's Bane: Electrical Problems. "When in doubt, reseat all connections and clean/tighten all star grounding points." Valeri Nugent, Instructor Block 10 A/N PSM-60A Gas Turbine Generator Set Course 3ABR423X5, Chanute AFB Illinois August 1984

Oh, and if you care to look closely, the 'vacuum ports' are arranged so you are monitoring vacuum on the back barrel of each carb (save the last one since it has Brake Booster hole) for balancing duties. You CAN'T adjust barrel-to-barrel synch on Mikuinis when the throttle shaft is twisted so a port on each runner would be redundant. Same as checking with a Uni-Sync. Many just go to the front barrel on carb 1, 2, & 3. Some of us also check 1 against 2, 3 against 4, and 5 against 6 to check for the known bending shaft phenomenon. For general synch though, the 'motorcycle manometer' will hook up just fine on the ports provided. If you have an ITB, or some Dellortos and other carbs with separate bypass 'trim' screws, then you can do it port-by-port. Why does Mikuini have them on all six? Who knows, who cares? Hint: EFI MAP LOG...

They are the casting number---I lay money they are the same as the one I have. As I said, 'standard casting' there are some which are slightly shorter and have a different number, they would be for X application with strut tower clearance. Another for application Y would have another number and be slightly longer. "1006" comes to mind. These were in every performance shop you went to in Japan in the 80's. Like someone said "Mine is exactly like this with "Hayashi Racing L28" Cast into it"---like I said immitation as opposed to innovation. Everybody and every culture does it. If it works why bother, slap your name on it and sell into the market or sell someone elses product and pay their markup first. Knocking off the pattern on this manifold would not be difficult. And like Alan Mentinoned there is a throttle cable version with a heavy 5mm bent steel arm that bolted to the manifold in some applications. I have one of those as well. I think this is the one currently on my 73...

The mikuini is a 'straight shot' to the back of the intake valve if you concentrate on raising the roof of the intake port and not hogging out the bottom of the intake runner. As for Pinyin or Romanization of foreign languages... or not being particularly interested in form for the most part when dealing with matters where the recipient will neither need nor particularly appreciate the information I plead Guilty. We could turn this into a defferentiation of Kanji Characters dealing with Katakana and Hiragana for which 'TO' has likely two different symbols, one being phonetic only, and the other being idogrammatic. In that case, a dispute of the character said to be "TO" could continue... but it's irrelevant to the discussion. That which is typed in between airline flights in 30 seconds may differ in content than that which is typed when in one's own office at home with reams of background documentation to refer. Mine was the former, not the latter. But does it matter? I posit not. Content is the same, outcome the same. Same as OBX and Quaife...

It's the standard JDM casting everybody used. FET put their name on it, either as "FET" or with the Kanji for "Kyukto" and that's how you can distinguish it. Lynx, Piper, and Cannon all put their name on it. The Japanese Casters though just pumped those babies out, sometimes you get a name, sometimes not. They came in intermediate lengths for Saloon and Sports cars with different strut tower clearance dimensions (think Skyline, Laurel, etc...) There's myriad combinations out there. I have several just like it. I am happy with them, like Pete mentioned it's not a 'Datsun Comp' but it's what it's copied from...in the Japan Market the OEMs were very performance oriented, and did a lot of development. Why innovate when you can immitate? Goes the same today, and was the same then. It worked, they copied it. Saves development costs. Mikuini, though, did a little bit of work and came up with something different than everybody else out there.

Get a 4.1 L Nissan President V8, and.... (I hear turbocharged it was over 1200HP as well, so add a "B" to the front of that Class and go really-really fast! ) I was close Burton---made it up to 40N in Michigan this week, just not the right Lattitude! Heading down to Detroit to fly back now.

Factory cars had a double pattern bored in them---one setting for Tarmac, one set for dirt stages. They rotated the holes 60 degrees off each other so they both looked stock.

Ray, that's not a heat soak issue, that's a failed CAS! That was the same thing that happened to my red 260. Get to operating temp and the CAS went nuts. It's failed. When they are new, they don't do that, seriously! But after a couple hundred thousand miles of heat cycling, just like N/A Ignitor Boxes, or turbo power transistors they fail when hot. Bo, you know where timing is supposed to be: use a dial in style timing light, mark your crank pulley, and start the car with a remote starter button. As soon as it fires your timing marks will show clear as day if you use a light colored chalk on the pulley. You can see timing while cranking using this method. Turn the timing light to where you know you have it mapped, and it should line up with your indicator. If it doesn't, something has moved or you don't know your timing map as well as you thought!

"How about the people who can't get a job because they've been arrested for 38 in a 35 at 2:15AM." First off, cite the case where someone was ARRESTED for "38 in a 35 at 2:15 A.M.". I call bullshit on this one. That's the story they tell all their drinking buddies. They got stopped, blew high, and got tagged. Plain and simple. I know, I've been pulled over and ticketed for 80 in a 55 and following too close in the HOV lane. They didn't arrest ME---on Memorial Day Weekend during an 'Enhanced Enforcement Weekend'---what idiot drinks and drives when they KNOW the cops are going to be out enmasse LOOKING for weavers, stoppers, right from the left turn laners? The difference was I didn't blow high. I didn't blow ANY registerable number. Why? Because I wasn't drinking before driving. Typical argument and just leave off that little fact..."I only had two beers!(an hour, for the past 8 hours)" Guess they should have called a cab. $2.38 for a cell call to get a free (or paid for) taxi ride is a little cheaper than whatever potential fines await from a DUI. Hell, even a ride from Haneda to a big hotel is only $400---still cheaper than the ticket alone. DUUUH! Seems like common sense to a thinking man that taking the taxi 100% avoids any potential downside whatsoever. What thinking man doesn't make that connection? The one that doesn't think. Really how hard is this? Explain and rationalize all you want, it comes down an individual making a choice knowing the potential downside. Nobody puts a gun to their head and says "go drive and run afoul of the draconian lowest common denominator laws and potentially ruin your life!" This is exactly the same as me CHOOSING to keep my Ruger Mini-14 with folding stock, flash hider, pistol grip in Michigan instead of taking it (illegally and against the law) into California. REGARDLESS OF MY OPINION OF THE LAW AND IT'S STUPIDITY IT NONETHELESS IS THE LAW AND IF I CHOOSE TO DISOBEY IT I AM SUBJECT TO SIMILAR BUT EVEN MORE DRACONIAN ENFORCEMENT PROCEEDINGS. I mean, hey, when was the last time a drunk got his kid assassinated by the FBI in his mother's arms? All for cutting off a gun barrel to feed his family? Woooooah! That's MUCH more reasonable than 30 days in the pokey and a couple thousand dollars fine for a 'victimless crime'... You can rationalize your hate of the laws and excuse their actions all you want. But the law is the law, and they CHOOSE to break it. I refuse to listen to them whine when they got caught and pay the price THEY KNEW WAS THE POSSIBLE OUTCOME. Like I said in the beginning "Thinking Men"... Weavers? No we got a 'no cel phone law' now. Lowest common denominator legislation. Quit ducking jury duty. Quit skipping election day. Quit whining on an internet board, go out, get involved, CHANGE WHAT YOU DON'T LIKE. But personally, I'm not loosing sleep over some idiot who DIDN'T THINK HE WOULD GET CAUGHT who gets caught and then has a terrible life afterwards. Maybe they need to drink less and apply themselves more in a sober environment. Perhaps then these loosers won't cry in their spilled milk and lament their terrible lot in life for THIER OWN DECISIONS. They made the choice, THEY live with it. I can live with it, too.

VA Motorsports Engineering - Sint Oedenrode The Netherlands. Frank 280ZX usually ships a container of cars/parts to Belgium or Holland from SoCal every April or May. There are those in The UK, but that's not Europe eh?

Sometimes the tin foil hat conspiracy people need to realize that it's not all about the money, the 'funds' raised are really irrelevant compared to the social costs. In most cases most of the fines are earmarked to programs on education. And since we seem to agree it doesn't work to decrease the risky behaviour...I offer the previous solution.

"I think the problem is that "you drink, you drive, you lose" doesn't reflect reality." It reflects the reality in so many other countries, how do you explain that other than the social pressures that don't let people get into the thought process that drinking more than (as the previous post states) a couple of social drinks and driving home. In Japan it's been 0.04 for more years than I can think of...you just don't drink and drive. If you're caught, it's one of the only ways to loose your license there. It's a cultural phenomenon in America that leads people to disregard OTHERS rights to drive on a roadway clear of impaired drivers and places THEIR right to drink as much as they see fit and drive home. They lack the regard for others, they are acting selfishly. Education really doesn't work in America the only thing that seems to have had an effect is making it so costly, so punitive to be caught even once that it's not worth it. Curiously, the limit for COMMERCIAL drivers (who also have to pass a physical to be licensed) is 0.04.... Why shouldn't they be allowed to drink as much as they want? Why should there be a limit on big rig drivers that is different than the normal UNPROFESSIONAL driver (who is not so skilled and tested in the operation of his vehicle?) You would think it would be the other way around. Sidestep it again. Most people who show up in court to fight a DUI have more than one. I sat in on a jury where it was the guys 3rd time. Their own expert testified (though he didn't say so since it was never asked...) he was still 'legally drunk' by statute. Of course that couldn't be told to the jury during the course of the trial, that would be 'prejudicial'... The fact that he was weaving across three lanes of traffic on the 91 Freeway near Castle Park when observed by the CHP. He thought he was in total control. The DashCam corroborated the weaving. So when he blew the bubble, and registered drunk...he shouldn't be punished? I mean, he didn't kill anybody THIS time. He didn't cause any property damage THIS time. So we should just let him go, right? Only punish him AFTER he kills someone or does property damage? Sorry, in this case I don't agree. And yeah, I'll rate him more important that rapists as it's probably a bit more prevalent. Remember This: Execution has a 0% recidivisim rate.

Bo, One thing I notice is the thought you can overload the pump (freezes) and not blow something. If the pump runs at full load at 10A then 25% above that a circuit breaker or fuse should stop the line overloading (and burning up the pump control relay in the process.) One sure way to see if the pump is drawing down from a drag internally is to put an amp-clamp on it---if it's heating up and seizing you will see the amperage increase well beforehand of it seizing. At the point it seizes, you will see the amperage rise to locked-rotor current (3X to 6X normal Full Load Amperage.) I'd look for a solid state component failing or loose wire. Good Luck!

You might MIGHT be able to get 5psi on the P90. Other than that, kiss it goodbye to Mr. Turbo!