Tony D

Was an "A" cam mentioned, or was it merely a question of is it worth trying a "C"? Don't make this question into something it's not. IMO the Dual Carb L20A cam is better than any of them with more lift and duration, but he didn't ask that question, and I'm not going to befuddle the matter and stall him by suggesting he wait for some mythical 'hot ticket' camshaft. Any of the early grinds from the 240 will work better in the L28ET to impart a sporting character to a rather sluglike engine performance curve. Plus he can then confirm and independently testify that the engine DOES run like an L24, only with more power (waaay more power in the case of a turbo...) to put to rest the myth that the L28 'revs slow because of it's stroke'... I digress...

-35 makes a nice working climate. If you slip and bust your hand open, it only oozes and clots/freezes pretty quickly so as long as you stay outside you won't loose a lot of blood...

Concertina wire up top, if you have the bar at the bottom, they will merely crawl over.

Why not? That's the hot N/A cam and will move the power peak to a more sporting 6300 or so, with a big torque bump midrange. Really should wake up the characteristics of the stodgy turbo grind which is wheeze-o-matic above 5300...

"They got the stuff to do it right, do it all the time, and if it breaks....they got insurance!"

I didn't point you to this one... I pointed you to the Monzster thread which explains the dynamics of the setup! It's not noob-hating, btw. You did that one yourself, I merely pointed out the error of your ways. Like a dog in obedience school with that choke collar, how can you be expected to learn if never corrected? I'm not big on the dog chain wearing requirement for noobs, though I concede it would make them more well mannered at some sites I frequent. Then again, so would a shock collar.

Hylomar is your friend...

Personally, with what a glass place charges to install a windshield, I let them do it! Gittin'r out is as Steve says: the special tool and there is a trim removal tool as well. If it's a rock chip or whatever and you're replacing the windshield, I'd seriously recommend just taking it to the glass place!

Finns do everything on birchbark and ice. With Vodka. My honorary Finnish Name is 'Buska Paa' whether I spell it right or not, it's what everybody there seems to call me!

The irony of this getting bumped up next to someone's first thread on the site asking if anybody else has ever used ITB's on a turbo is priceless.

Clickety-Click!

In before the shed... Have you even LOOKED at the stickies on this site? I would say the most interesting part of Todd's build (The Z, not his rotary 510) was his Real Carbon-Fiber G-Job Plenum and use of Adel Wiggins Clamps throughout. But hey, 'most interesting' is like 'best' right? Wow, ITBs and a Plenum? Really? Clickety Click!

Putting the hood on their own build in preparation for a move to Reno NV. And it won't blow up. Now that one? Who knows?

The broken record skipped?

Or the ship went through freezing weather and you were inadequately mixed on the anti-freeze! Or it could be MG Craftsmanship... I too sell cars into Europe. Appreciation of a rust free chassis is there, and so is a true love of marque and expendable income. I would feel better selling a beloved car into an enthusiasts hands there or Japan simply because they have a committment to preservation and usually the means to achieve it. Here, it's just fodder... But make no mistake, the financial incentives exist there to run around in an old car. Usually they are exempt from taxation...a BIG incentive for a second car! Coming from America where everybody seems to have a car, you don't really appreciate how much of a luxury it is in most of the rest of the world! It can be VERY expensive to own cars outside the USA. People complain about what they pay here, but they have no idea what it's like in places like Japan, Singapore, or even some of the 'more enlightened and socially concious' portions of Europe!

The FPR placed after the rail puts the pumps FULL CAPACITY available to the injectors, and regulates pressure on a 'backpressure basis'... If you place it before the rail, you use the FPR to restrict the flow and dump excess fuel before it ever has a chance to feed the injectors. If there is something untoward that happens the FPR is a potential bottleneck to the pumps flow to the injectors. Also, putting it as a backpressure regulator lets the pump operate at an amperage which can potentially be lower. This was discussed in the past. In detail. If you look at the stock systems, the FPR is almost always after the injectors at the end of the fuel rail. It aids in bleeding air, and helps in Vapor Suppression. My concern is 'what tank' are you planning on using, and where is the surge/swirl pot to ensure a flooded pump inlet at all times?

See what you get when you go through 'alternative channels'? Call it a Chevy and it's $5.00 Call it a VW and it's $5.50 Call it a Nissan, and it's $500! Remember the advice given here in the past: Call it a Chevy, pay the $50 'custom charge' and then specify ring sizes, pin height, and dome thickness....and get a wholesale cost of about $40 a piston. Call it a Nissan, and the wholesale cost goes up over double that! Damn, and you have two extra pistons when you order the Chevy part... Bummer. Nobody ever breaks a piston skirt or holes just one piston. You always need a whole set of six...

Do I read this right that you have already removed the head? I have a lifting chain with quick-links on the end. The quick links attach to two 1/4 thick, 1X3 pieces of strap steel (you can get the strap steel at Home Depot, etc) with two holes drilled in them---one around 3/8" the other slightly larger. The quick link attaches through the 3/8" hole. The other hole can be bolted to just about anything on the head (EGR VALVE STUD, intake manifold bolt...) If the head is removed, you can take a standard bolt and screw it into an open head-bolt hole and use this to lift the engine. Using the chain links is not wise, the bolts can be stressed, they don't clamp straight, and can break. A small piece of strap attached with quick links will let you bolt to just about anything. Using quick links allows me to swap to a flat 'hook' that will also hook into the stock lifting sling points if they are on there. Or use one hook on an existing sling point, and a flat one to bolt to the EGR, intake bolt, etc... It's a very versatile bit of equipment to have in the tool box.

The header blanket MSA sells is very effective containing the heat given off by the headers. There is more than enough in the kit for a total blanket of the headers, with plenty left over for auxilliary application to other components like a heat shield for the brakes, switches and lines, etc... I was really suprised by how well it actually worked, easily put right against the head so everything is covered. As for the box, TWM was making one out of FRP. There are aluminum hand-fabbed pieces, the mind is the only limit.

New rule for the forum:"Please do not be offended if people offering replies to your poorly constructed post expend as much time on their reply as you did composing it."

"Found a broken bolt cutter tossed in the bushes next to my trailer and only a tiny little nick on one chain link." A nice Harbor Freight 'replacable jaws special' no doubt!

That was on Mikuinis and their available cooling bodies really help alleviate the situation. Weber doesn't have this, so they stay hot, and off gas. The real issue is vapor recovery (EVAPorative emissions control) for the carbs. All carburettors suffer this, try driving a 1978 Impala Station Wagon with the HD Suspension (4.11 gears out back) with a 350 CID Engine with a Quadrajet...hold your foot to the floor in D and don't let up until just after the secondaries kick in (about 65mph) --- the difference in gasoline smell in the cabin with and without the air cleaner and snorkel on is amazing! Same goes for a hot shutdown. The quadrajet, thermoquad, holley---anything sitting on top of a hot intake manifold will off-gas like crazy after shutdown. Thing is the individual float bowl volume contributes to how much EVAP you will get. Thermoquads are the worst in terms of 'volume' but best in that they have a phenolic construction making heat transfer less an issue. But the others, with die cast bowls... Triple Webers/Mikuinis/Delortos/SK/OER's have far more volume in them than most domestic single four barrel manifolds so naturally they have a big EVAP possibility. The 74 SU's had VERY LITTLE captive volume in the float bowl compared to the 73's and therefore were less prone to the smells. The earlier carbs with the metal overboard dumps smelled even with an air cleaner---but the US Models vented the carbs to the air cleaner, and with a thermostatic element that all would have a closed damper on the front of it, now wouldn't it? All barriers to the nose detecting off-gassing. You will find the EFI car simply won't smell compared to the Weber'd car. Same as if you were running TWM ITB's, they wouldn't stink either...no off gassing after shutdown, only the tau layer on the inlet manifold to dry up and that's almost instantaneous after shutdown! The source is hot gas in the float bowls. The answer is either eliminate the hot gas, or recover the EVAPorative emissions to prevent the smells. Either will work. Personally, I'd go EFI... Gut those babies, make them vintage looking throttle bodies, and run an injector rail on your triple manifold. Bye Bye gas smell after shutdown. Hello 30mpg at highway light cruise! Double payback when going ITB EFI over Webers!

Yep... Just came back from Korea as a matter of fact. More time in China recently than any place else. Well, going to Korea now you get a much better than average chance of standing on alert more often than not. Lots of sabre rattling up north. I got to go to Anshan China in late January...wonderful! North Korean Border not that far away... I get to learn about the Frozen Chosun firsthand! Spent my time there, 3 weeks short of actually getting a short (remote) tour ribbon out of it. They cancelled my last TDY there so I could go go NCO Leadership School. Told 'em: I'm not re-enlisting, I don't NEED NCO leadership school! I would like to have the cool remote tour ribbon on my blouse though... In the service's way of logical progression I was then pulled from NCO Leadership School AND didn't go on the TDY.

Oh, that does make quite a bit of a difference. With an L.... Hayden, Be Cool, and other manufacturers have electronic solid state thermal controls that have adjustable cut in points.

Mine are secured with MAC's tie downs exclusively. Mac's Best Tiedowns Ever! I've actually (inadvertently) lifted an entire 240Z to an almost vertical orientation with Mac's Combo Bridle which is meant simply as a way to get a central point on the front of the vehicle to winch it onto a trailer (like dragging a car with flat tires...or no tires, onto a flatbed 2X4's are easier to carry and faster than changing rollers for a quick pickup!) Macs has a lot of good information at their site regarding proper tow practices, take a while and look around the site. I changed the way I tied down cars after reading their information. Cargo Loading C5 Pallets is not the same, I found out... After having some 'cheaper stuff' get buckle failures, or otherwise not work well as my normal stolen government property 'surplus' straps, I had to buy something better, and Mac's was it! I won't shop anywhere else for this stuff now. For the price, it's not worth it.