Tony D
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Posts posted by Tony D
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"Think on this though, your factory AC system is just cooling down ambient temp air, and not at nearly the rate a turbo moves it either."
Think on this though: Proper Capicitance in a system allows a FAR smaller compressor to be used to handle impulse loadings than otherwise would be necessary.
If they can cool the engine with Freon, simply cooling intake air would be a cinch...
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You've only seen one like that Ray? You have never been to my place...
Stailess Steel Versions were available (400 series)
Blue painted ones were Trust/Greddy
Green painted ones were OS
Red painted ones were Fujitsubo
That was 'the standard header everybody had' on an L-Engine in Japan from the mid 70's when Trust started selling them (before that, Nissan Sport Parts has some similarly configured ones available)
My Trust header was bought and put on a car in 1978, daily driven on the mainland and then shipped to Okinawa, where it was daily driven until it was sold to me in 1986...and it's been on one of my cars (along with the matching exhaust...bet you want photos, huh Ray?) ever since.
The exhausts that bolt to that are still available in Japan.
My last example I bought out of a Scrap Yard for 700 yen (at the time slightly less than $6...but there was a time that was about $2.50!)
New they were around 45,000 yen. The Stainless versions are higher...
That should be dumping into twin 50mm tubes. This is a very close replica of the Nissan Factory Header for the L-Engine, and the exhaust on that setup is why the 240's had two divots in the diffy front X-Member. The Fairlady 432 had twin 60mm tubes off of it, but looked similar. It's like the aftermarket basically copied the 432 setup.
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If you are properly driving the car, 'lag' is a non-issue in modern turbocharged cars...
/Forrest Gump Look/
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Warren, you have to get into a car to put it on a trailer? I thought that was what the remote-control battery powered winches at Harbor Freight were for...
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We triggered the bonny engine from the distributor quill, using the small e-motive wheel.
As for the blocked water passage, there has been one guy here (ahem) talking about removing the internal bypasses back to the inlet of the water pump to maximize cooling flow through the block for some time now and (sniff sniff) he's feeling a bit put out that nobody has listened and immediately recognized another "lost performance cooling modification" for the L-Gata! That goes for the -3 AN lines as well. Take a look at the discussions on the #5 Cooling Thread and all will be alluded to, if not outright explained...
Some people plug the return in the block with a flushseal plug, but putting aluminum in there does the same thing.
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Rifle drilled Titanium cams.
Titanium Tubing with shrunk on rollercam-lobes and shrunk-on journal bearing surfaces...just like large industrial engines have been using for years!
Maybe an aluminum/titanium lobe drilled for lightness and with a hardfaced skin coating or surface treatment.
Then you have the ultimate in low-weight for best acceleration as well!
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First thing I thought of was 'why the low rpm limit'---short of using CAST pistons, there is no way I'd limit an L-Engine for endurance racing to that low an RPM range. 7500 would be a 'streetable' engine, and at least 8K for a track engine.
That is WELL within the 'longevity' range of an L-Gata. Though the romance of antiquated balancers may prove your undoing...I'd skip the vintage stuff and put it on a shelf for lookin' at, and put a properly designed modern damper unit on the engine for the best results.
"Vintage" and "Longevity" are usually mutually exclusive. Just my thoughts.
And don't get stuck on catalogged grinds. Call and talk to Ron and give him your engine details. They will custom tailor the lobe centers, split the duration and grinds, all sorts of things to come up with a cam specifically for YOUR engine. It won't cost any more or any less than buying one out of the catalog, and you can send in a good 'JAPAN' core for the grind, getting better compatibility than the CWC core used for their stocking grinds.
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Since that post Jeff P dynoed on a Mustang at 475HP on his stock bottom end. Limited accordingly because of not forged parts!
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"Engineering has made me more money than I did in the pipe trades."
YOU, sir are highly compensated!
My friend recently came out to the west coast with his son. Terrible thing to say but the kid inherited his mothers oraungatan-look and brains to match. I showed my son an East-Coast Union Pipefitter making $100,000+ a year and said "If that's what you want to work WITH every day, then don't go to school! You CAN make a lot of money...but consider the environment!"
He went, in earnest, to the local community college and REALLY started pressuring the counselors for the classes he was missing the first semester!
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"Really sad when so much credence is blindly placed on a piece of paper, and a person is put on a pedestal, fabricated solely of certified books that have been checked off and stacked."
You and I said the same thing...save that I basically stated "those uninitiated can't (or rather, shouldn't if you prefer) use the term..."
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SO what do you do when you win? Victory lap! Both hands on the wheel, please!
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According to the scales at San Antonio Dragway my 1976 2+2 with my 255# body inside it weighed in at 2695---seeing it runs 15.50 in the 1/4 at just under 90mph, that seems a reasonable engine power level for what I've done to it...
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I would say 'Grease Monkey' should be reserved as a pejorative term...
I worked with guys who called themselves that, and they had 4th grade educations (and had been through the war...)
But it's like some other words wherein those who participate may call one another this, but it is taboo for those outside the frat to call you that same thing.
Just my opinion. I'm not big on using that term though, I find it pretty dismissive for the very reasons it was used in the above post.
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I think 1 Fast Z was being facetious...
But anybody with a balancing machine should be able to set up just about anything that is round and can be spun, and get a vector and imbalance reading on the machine.
From there you can correct for it.
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I'm on the last line:
Swap the sender from the tank you removed and your problem is solved: instant compatibility! They are direct swappable with the ring removed.
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My camshaft operates at a higher rpm than most people's crankshafts...
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But they don't!
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"Or I'd read/watch a review and some people who are really into guns will poopoo a firearm because of very minor things."
That's like watching people here discuss cams...or minutae thereof hinging discounting an option entirely based on a single insignificant variable...
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"It is unfortunate that in this country a bachelor's degree in ANY subject has become a "checkmark" item for so many occupations."
This, too, I have to agree with, sadly.
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Uh, Mr. K will speak there VIA SKYPE....
That is a key thing to mention if you think The K will be flying in, he won't.
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"I think we would all rather be in jail than dead, unless Buffalo Bill was in the cell with you."
I think you overstate your case far too much. The effort it takes to kill someone with your bare hands is enormous. Chances are whatever beating you take, it will NOT kill you. Not even close. The human body is an amazing thing when it comes to being able to survive abuse. Want an example...go find a kitten, not even a full grown cat, a stick with a 'y' in it, and a river. Now, try to hold that little kittens head under the water until it's dead only using that stick.
See who give up first.
Now, make that 1# kitty, and multiply by what? 130X the weight and see how easy it is to simply 'kill' it with brute force.
As for Biuffalo Bill in the cell with you...you have no clue. My suggestion for you, Josh, is to learn to wet-fart on command because that is about the only consolation you will have when you learn the vagaries of incarceration.
Then again, Buffalo-Bill Boffing you Behind-wise is better than being dead I guess. Except you only die once. 5 to 7 years, 365 days a year (or even three times a week if he's average and satiated by you somewhat...) is still a lot of 'death' I'd rather avoid, personally.
Who knows, maybe you like that idea. Opens up the dating prospects by 100% when you get back on the outside!
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Shipping RORO is not possible with that car as it doesn't run. Containerized shipping would add appreciably to the cost.
Now, if it was in SoCal, we could stick it in the next shipment to Rotterdam next April and Alan could take the caravan through The Chunnel and go retreive his booty there with a split containerized shipping cost...
But it's not, so no use engaging in idle fantasy.
And of course I meant USA/Canada...Alan, why would I state it thusly?
I'm not sure what 'reverse shift pattern' even means. Unless it's an oddball with 1/R in the same gate like the S11 Sylvias, having 2/3/4/5 in the "H" of the pattern. I have one of those in the LSR car, and it is possible that one is in that chassis.
If that is the case, the tranny alone justifies the cost, and if the clock oscillator was functioning....DEAL ON WHEELS!
Sometimes you just have to know how to speak redneck.
I can't tell you what kind of deals I've gotten off ebay and craigslist looking for 'carbarator' 'dotsun' or other wonderful 'isims'
Or the best deal of them all, from a parking garage in West L.A.: "1975 Dotsun Z, long nose, solid mag weels, don't run, rhd, $1000 o.b.o." Vehicle was left by Japanese rotating back to Tokyo, had a friend 'dispose' of it. G-Nosed, Pantera Hatch, SSR Wheels, 40 Mikuinis, Built L20A (!?!?!), all the goodies inside wonderful (albiet dust-covered) metallic blue paint and all Japanese Paperwork including about to expire California Registration. Deal was done on the spot cash. Car was washed, taken to a SoCal show, and sold for $10,000 cash with a $300 detail job, and current tags.
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Are those taillights factory zxr? hmmm interesting. Never seen those before.
Decalomania...
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"Lesson learned never trust anyone with your car." (Does this mean your wife?)
Never pay for work not completed is a better lesson!
You have a lot of parts listed, which I could see account for the dollars expended, but you didn't break that out. Was the pricing of the individual pieces including labor? Sounds like you paid for parts AND labor in advance, which is a no-no. Parts is parts, you can always pile them in the car and tow it away. If you paid for the installation and it's not done...that is both a bit foolish and puts you in a hard spot regarding recovery of that cost.
You have 8 Parts listed, did you intend this to occur in these stages? Did you pay for part one, before it was completed? Did you allow them to move on the Part 2 while Part 1 was incomplete (and paid for?)
In a lot of these cases it takes two to tango. I'm having a problem following what exactly happened with all these "Parts" which seem to be benchmarks in need of partial payment, and the consent to move on to the next one before the prior was completed.
There is someone here on the board with about 3X what you have in your ZX, and it's sitting in his garage...without a head.
Road Race Turbo build
in Nissan L6 Forum
Posted
Everybody uses glyptal for sealing casting sand in and smoothing the interior of the blocks for oil drainage when you don't want to spend the time grinding the castings flat.
If it can withstand 450F in an electric motor 24/7/365 a couple hundred hours at half that temperature should not be an issue...