Tony D
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Posts posted by Tony D
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They are bolted onto the car they don't fall off, they are very durable and are retained by the bumper when you remove it.
I left that out in my original response, apparently that makes me some sort of filthy-foul bag or whatnot in the eyese of those who didn't answer the question...
I love it when people take offense to something they had no useful contribution towards rectifying. Such useful discourse. I'm glad someone finds it amusing. For the most part, it's a waste of a post and space, but then again that's just my opinion.
If this is 'basic fitment 101' I'd say ask it over at Classic Z Cars and you will get all sorts of answers which will make you all amazed.
But again, it's not in the parts book, and preproduction models don't count. At least not the way I read it originally, as stated in my filth-foul bag (apparent) response.
I think some people want to be offended, you know? Like they look for it. I wish I had that much time on my hands...
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Use a single coil with an 81 ZX Dissy, or single coil with a 82/83 ZXT dissy/CAS unit. Firing the coil in-phase with the rotor and tower you want is pretty straightforward. The MS-1 will do that! If it's not boosted, you won't have any issues up well past 8000 with a single coil if you get the bosch turbo unit that nissan and everybody used. Very fast saturation time. It will look like a functioning distributor, because it IS a functioning distributor. But all it will do is point the spark where it needs to go.
Stick a little vent to the intake box on the filtered side so you get air transfer through the cap, and ionization will not be an issue.
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If you add a turbo drain hole to it, it will work. That is the pan (suitably modified) that JeffP put into his L28ET in his 280ZX. It ain't 8 quarts no more in a ZX...
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" It gets strong smelling on decel with the window rolled down that creates a vacuum affect on the rear hatch seal. The low pressure in the car invites that exhaust in and passes by me on its way out the drivers side window."
Another piece of "Emissions Related Crap" prevents or significantly reduces that (two things...uh, THREE things actually...
1) Idle Snubber Dashpot. This keeps the throttle plates closing the last several degrees VERRRRY slowly. This provides residual O2 into the combustion chamber to give a little combustion.
2) The Throttle Vacuum Pull-Off. This is the thing that when you snap the throttles closed over 3000 rpms makes the throttle close slowly over 3 seconds over the last say 1/4 throttle movement range. MAIN contributor to O2 in the exhaust so you don't get the massive spike in drop-throttle HC's due to shutting off all the O2 available for combustion.
3) AIR Pump / System. This simply pumps the O2 straight into the exhaust to post-combust the HC's in the head and exaust manifold. With an AIR pump attached to my 71 with headers and SU's I piped clean to catalyzed 83 standards.
ALL the above 'Emissions Crap Devices' will extract MAYBE a total of 2HP from the engine. If you don't use the AIR Pump, there is NO PENALTY WHATSOEVER but a DRASTIC reduction in HC emissions.
The Toyota 2TG and 18RG engines used both the throttle pull off and snubber dahspot for HC reduction. For their AIR system they used a 'Gulp Valve' arrangement which did not extract ANY horsepower, and would be easily adaptable to these cars with triples. In fact, my 1977 Toyota Celica GT with an 18RG-R running dual mikuini PHH's ALSO had a CATALYST on it, and we emissions calibrated to a tailpipe standard STRICTER than CALIFORNIA CELICAS with the SOHC 22R (or 20R, I forget which...damnable industrial refrigeration engine...)
There is absolutely no reason 'performance' needs to mean 'polluter', unfortunately very few people take the time to intellectually analyze their actions and simply cut, strip, and discard from rote that which they don't understand or take the time to understand. Years of 'experts' telling them 'emissions crap steals performance' and getting hung on a 2 or 5HP loss compared to a non-compliant car just steers them down a path which ends up being bad for everyone involved.
Yeah, retaining some of this stuff will be work... But if your eyes don't water when you drop-throttle decel... If you don't have ANY HP penalty (using a gulp valve instead of the AIR pump)... Is it worth it?
And to be sure, converting those Triple Carbs to EFI with some screw in injector bungs and gutting them for use as nostalgic throttle bodies would solve that drop throttle eye watering issue as well. Every ECU has a decel-injector fuel cut subroutine, and when you have NO fuel in there you can't pump HC's out to make your eyes water! It's one of the biggest things you notice when you go to EFI from Carbs. The places where you got misty-eyed suddenly aren't so fume-acious as before!
I digress...
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Talk with Frank280ZX, he's swapped many Z31 components onto his S130. Though I don't know why you would need the K-Member for a swap. A VG Fits with the stock K-Member in there.
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Have you used a scope to probe the signal to the ECU from the CAS? Or are you getting a pulsed signal to the ECU from the CAS as you crank (DVOM set 0-5VDC and probing appropriate pins in the cable?)
Are you (with the DVOM range set 0-5VDC) seeing a 'pulsed' signal on the 'yellow wire' from the ECU to the Ignitor?
Can you force a spark simulating a pulse into the ignitor?
Time to break out the FSM to trace some wires and see where probes need to be. Until you figure out where you have a pulse, and where you don't, you're just guessing. The circuit is very simple, CAS-ECU-IGNITOR start at one end and go till you loose your signal. The last component to get a good signal but not send it out is bad.
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What's a flywheel anyway? It's not like it does anything, it just spins around. Just shave it, you will be just fine that SFI crap is just to make money for aftermarket manufacturers...
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Preproduction cars as magazine testers don't count. I thought the question was from a factory installation standpoint for a normal production run vehicle and not a trick question of 'were these ever on a car ever shipped to the usa for testing and evaluation including those cars classed as proproduction prototypes'...
The production cars don't have them, and there isn't a part number in the 240Z US Fiche for them accordingly.
It is, on the other hand, in the Fairlady Z parts book...
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Yeah, the 432 Box was nothing more than a box, with a duct to a cannister filter mounted near the radiator core support. The more volume it has, the more fumes work to pressurize it to the point of backflowing through the filter media!
We are talking inches of water column here!
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Incorrect, the CAS units are interchangable, they give the same signals to the ECU.
They are plug-and-play interchangable.
I know, I've gone both ways on this at any given time. Currently I have an 83 CAS in an 81 right now.
Previously I'd retrofitted an 81 engine with CAS into an 83ZXT 2+2 and did nothing more than plug the harness in...they are the same to the ECU.
How they are derived is slightly different, but the signals and waveforms on the two distinct signal channels as read by the ECU are identical!
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I hoard all my stuff. I don't sell anything.
I have no problems.
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Please keep in mind a catalyst doesn't do anything most of the time, it's for scrubbing the exhaust during transients!
This is a common misconception. A catalyzed car runs clean through precision fueling, not by virtue of a post-combustion scrubber! When you accelerate quickly you pump extra HC's out from lean and rich transitions...when you misfire a plug...when you have a sensor failure---THAT is when your Catalyst is working and working hard. Places like WOT and partial throttle cruise---it's doing nothing for HC Reduction.
I ran my 73 through a California Smog Check when I originally came to the state, and it tested clean to 83 catalyzed standards using an AIR pump and not much more than properly tuned timing and SU's. Amazingly clean.
The EFI will allow a wider range of 'correct' mixture, but don't think a catalyst will help if you don't have that proper mixture control. The BIGGEST thing you will notice will be decel fuel cut. THAT ALONE will noticably increase your fuel economy and almost totally eliminate the 'eye watering experience' inside the Z...
Keep us posted on the updates. Myself, I just found the DIY PNP Setup for the Megasquirt for my Rat-Motored Tow Rig and was considering it, knowing full well the old ECU's were fully back-hacked. I now have to thank or curse strotter for giving me quick access to the information I need to do it without changing my ECU.
I have always liked the GM ECUS, and having been trained in them at their inception I'm comfortable with their subroutines and durability. Hacking makes me more comfortable than total replacement. It's worked flawlessly for 20+ years, why change it when I can just tweak it! (And the fact that the original Turbo City VW stuff was all GM ECU based EFI as well, and I worked on that now for 20+ years as well... damn I'm getting old...) -
I have to agree with Ray 1000% on this, after doing my hoses and fuel system on my turbo car, I could maintain not a couple inches of water in the system, but a couple of PSIG! Absolutely no leakage. I would say the 0.020" leak he is registering is the diverter valve allowing crankcase accumulation to leak past the crankshaft seals---which on a PROPERLY MAINTAINED SYSTEM should be the ONLY leak path for the vapors! Retrofit a double or triple lip seal in their place and even that can be improved. My PSIG check was with the diverter valve plugged to test total fuel system integrity, doing it like this if I dent my gas tank, I can (and have!) literally blown the tank back straight with up to 5-10psig in the filler hole! The system IS tight. The only place for it to 'leak out' is the front and rear seals.
One of the startling differences was when I went from 44PHH's to TURBOCHARGED Blow-Through PHH's... No more gasoline smell after shutdown. Captive emissions in the surge tank.
The 240Z uses crankcase accumulation of gas vapors, and without a closed element air cleaner, proper heat shielding, and a functioning PCV system (what good does crankcase accumulation of vapors do if you just let them vent out through the valve cover 'filter'?)
If you can dig up some of Carl Beck's photos of the original 165HP L24 with triple 40 PHH's you will see an air cleaner very similar to the Z432. Also very similar to the Toyota 2T-G or 18R-G. None of these cars gave off objectionable vapors in OEM configuraiton. As a matter of fact, I had several GT Toyotas with the DOHC Engines and Mikuini Carbs (latest model was a 1980 Carina GT) which had no more 'gasoline vapors' than a comparable 280ZX which had EFI. The next year they went to EFI on the GT engines and the carbs were gone...but there was no noticable emissions increase in the garage that I could tell.
These systems are not that difficult to understand, it just takes some time to learn about them and then understand what they were doing. Likely nobody will want to make an OEM looking filter box, but that really helps. As does a heat shield. Toyota carbs (Mikuini PHH's) actually had some vapor dashpots to allow the vapors to go to a carbon cannister after 1974, same as the 260Z.
There's no reason triple have to be gassy and smelly. But if you are running an open element air cleaner and put it away hot...you WILL have vapors ad nauseaum! (Literally!)
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" seems like a government protection racket for the domestic market. "
Like any other country.
This also exposes your unfamiliarity with importation channels. A personal importation is EXEMPT from Federal Emissions Requirements if the vehicle is 5 model years old or older. You still have DOT to contend with, though. At least it once was...
If the vehicle is old enough, there is NO compliance required...
You're sorely misinformed on why we have 91 here in CA... sorely misinformed. You need to get more information before making comments such as these. You're way off base.
I'm being polite.
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They are an example of 'decontenting' of the 240Z for hte US Market. They are a Fairlady JDM piece, they were never installed on the 240's. It's a nice finisher piece though.
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What functional EVAPORATION MITIGATION SYSTEM do you have in place?
This is usually the 'emissions crap' most people take off when doing this kind of conversion---what did you do to preserve the integrity of yours? Do you have a closed-element air cleaner and properly functioning EVAP system on the car after the conversion?
If not, start there. They did have a proper EVAP system on triples from Nissan in the OEM Triple Application (the 165HP L24 never imported or marketed, and the Z432)...
But don't kid yourself, it's not a modern car with total captive emissions containment. There will be some odor. If it's up since you changed from SU's go back, look what you 'eliminated that you didn't think you needed and start retrofitting it to get back to equivalent SU emissions in the garage!
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It IS that they were arrogant. I see the attitude all too often. They thought they could pull a fast one and are now shocked that the LAW is actually being enforced. Like I said on another topic, most people are shocked when they are caught in the act of being guilty.
There was more to it that 'a proprietary washer' --- the facts of the matter were they were outright fraudulent in their federalization. Upon further in-depth investigation it was found that it was IMPOSSIBLE to maked them comply.
But as said before: the law is the law and don't get shocked when you break it and get caught!
Properly importing a vehicle is NOT that hard a task, but vechiles aren't as simple as they once were. The root of this whole debacle with the Skylines was they thought they could bank on the 'when was the last time' mentality---there were a lot of knowing and unknowing people caught up in it, and they all got burned---some deservedly so.
As someone who has LEGALLY imported non-conforming vehicles to the USA in the past, I find it laughable that someone gets burned for pulling a fast one and then is shocked. For me it's a nice 'well, someone was awake at NHTSA today...'
PERSONAL imports are EXCEEDINGLY EASY to accomplish.
You do it as a BUSINESS, you best mind your P's & Q's because it's a BUSINESS and you WILL be held to the same standard as any other OEM importing vehicles.
As for bill of lading, duties, etc... you CAN have it. But you bought it and imported it under the RULES---it you didn't read and understand them when you did it...uh...don't cry to me that you have your vehicle confiscated because you are in violation of the agreement you made when you imported it---they tell you it must be reexported after a year or destroyed. You think you should be exempt from that contractual obligation?
I detest rules as much as the next guy, but I at least don't cry when I get caught trying to pull a fast one.
Whining on an internet forum isn't going to change it. Watch who you elect, move to change what you don't like. But in the meantime, don't express shock when the law is enforced! Sure there are plenty of others to enforce that would seem to me to be a better way to spend the money...but then again to see anything enforced is better than nothing. Vote Right.
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download the FSM for an 83 turbo and check the CAS (dissy) installation and timing instructions.
The signals put out by the 81 CAS and the 82/83CAS are identical. Either ECU will work with either CAS as long as it's phased properly.
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leaking core plug at the back of the block is a possibility indeed! If one is gone, others are soon to follow... That one in particular is kinda PITA to service, aluma-seal is your friend in this case...
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Indeed this is a tragic story if storage insurance or a renters goods rider was not inforce---that would at least cover you enough to not worry about the one on which you still owe money.
You secretly hope they break their necks doing something stupid on them...but then you realize their next of kin would probably sue you for them breaking their necks on the ATV's they stole from ya...
I don't like theives.
P.S. Please revise the typeface/font in the O.P. on my screen at least it's all run together and almost impossible to read.
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Been done.
Check out Patton Machine for GM TBI Injector-into-SU Body adapters.
There is a gent in france using custom flashed GM ECU with the Patton Adapters to great effect.
Good Luck with the conversion. For the cost, the Patton Pieces make the conversion so much easier than adapting the bulky stock GM Bodies---all you really want is the injector...right?
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That header flange appears to be the same flange all the JDM headers use. Ends about where the engine/trans junction is, just like the Z432 Header it's patterned after. Most of the exhausts in Japan are 'universal'---that is they all have a standard header flange location. So you can use Brand X Header with whomevers exhaust.
Notable exception are some of the very high-end stuff where they don't fit on LHD's due to primary length, and not coming down to the "Nissan OE Style Twin Pipe Flange"...
My Trust/Greddy Exhaust fit my Trust Header, my OS Header, my Stainless Header... they were all the same. The only oddball I have is a Fujitsubo Racing Header that comes down to twin 60mm pipes---a bit larger than the standard 50mm pipe used on most dual systems.
Then again, the 432 had twin 60mm pipes as well from what I'm told. 2L @ 10,000 rpms flows I guess!
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"A fan shroud is just as important as high CFM flow. Every moden car has a good shroud. "
This isn't a modern car is it? This is a car that was designed with a shroud, and marketed without it. One which had a 160F thermostat avaialble for it.
As much as you want to insist that you MUST use a shroud, common sense says 'no, you don't unless your flow is marginal.'
And now we have come full circle. If you have enough flow, you won't NEED a shroud. All the new cars come with ABS and Airbags as well, do I NEED those ALSO?
If you want to engineer down to the nth degree and have ONLY that which you NEED...then when you go outside the parameters of design you're screwed and overheat!
The radiator on a stock Z is oversized. There is excess capacity. If you three or four core it then there is MASSIVE overcapacity on the heat rejection side of the equation. Sure, then lets undersize the fan, put a shroud on it to boost transfer efficiency....and as long as it never gets hot outside you're cool.
I wonder why the Taurus Fan used two speeds...
Strong Gas Smell with Triple Webers
in Nissan L6 Forum
Posted
Some sick individual once made an EGR manifold out of Swagelock connectors and T316 Stainless as well...Lesson Learned: Use bigger tubing than you think if you're pumping EGR! (Also that 'brown' stainless steel tubing is damn hot to the touch!)
There is no end to what deviant things we can make if we set our minds to it.
With the advent of cheap EFI and those tasty EGR Coolers on all the big diesels it may be time for a revisit of this debauchery!