Tony D
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Posts posted by Tony D
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case in point...
I wear out 2 cordless drills every year. The drills don't break, the batteries just fail to hold a charge. I don't buy batteries because they cost as much as the entire drill kit with charger and 2(two) batteries. I have a dozen NAME BRAND drills in a bucket waiting for robotics experiments when my kid is older. Why the hell would I buy an expensive drill when I KNOW FOR A FACT that the batteries won't last for ANY BRAND. I buy the cheapest junk I can lay hands on and they work just as long as the Dewalt, Makita, Bosche, etc.
We're helping everybody here... I have a contractor friend who swore by Dewalt. He still has a lot of their stuff. But when I asked him about buying it for myself (battery powered stuff) he said "To be honest the stuff I buy now is from Harbor Freight" and gave the exact same reason BJ just mentioned. The batteries take a crap, and if you buy IN BULK when they go on deep discount sale---you pick up the 'extended two year replacment warranty' for a discount and usually cheaper than the price of the tool alone. When you end up getting is a free replacement when you wear it out using it daily in construction for a year, and then still likely have coverage on the replacement for that second unit as well!
I bought the HF Hammer Drill when I did my driveway... abused the hell out of it. It survived. Now, 4 years later I'm still using it to sink anchors and the occasional stuff around the house. This past summer my kid put the chipping hammer on it and dug an access tunnel under our house through the Decomposed Granite our foundation is put on... Well beyond what it was supposed to be used for...but for what I paid on sale ($37) compared to a lookalike "B" brand at $347... hell, why not!
Consider them disposable, and buy for the job. Include the cost of hte tool in the jobs budget and if it survives, you're money ahead! In a lot of cases, buying a HF electric tool is cheaper than even RENTING a brand name for the duration of the project!
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On 310z's problem, the quality of the substituted item is not the point. He was presuaded that he was going to get a certain branded item but got something else. If the persuasion amounts to misleading advertising or deception then that is usually contary to the law.
Yeah, I would tend to agree that 'bait and switch' is something that can get them nailed. There are usually 'substitution clauses' in most online adverts that make it very hard to pursue that line.
But I agree, it's the same as driving in 100 miles to the car dealer for the $6000 Chevette, and them saying "well we don't have any of those available now, how about this Pinto for $7200, it's only a little more but you get so much more car!"
Truthfully, you still see the bait and switch car ads, low prices for brand name stuff...all they do now is put in the fine print "one available at this price VIN xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx" If you don't see that part, you still drive 100 miles and get the SAME tactic pulled...only now it's totally legal.
I'm almost betting this is the case with the wrench in question.
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Negotiations for pickup are pending.
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What? Was it on e-bay or something? I haven't been crusing...
<EDIT> One thing I was going to mention, and it goes hand-in-hand with the 'throttle sensitivity' thread elsewhere is that Hillborns RARELY have a 'throttle return spring' as most people know it. Generally they rely totally on overcentered linkages which HEAVILY bias the throttle to the closed position so if a throttle linkage breaks, the ITBs return to idle.
In addition, the springs used in their setups when cable actuated are almost always COMPRESSION SPRINGS. Like the old VW's used---the combination of a compression spring on the cable will PUSH the linkages towards the CLOSED position should the cable break, and the linkages being designed to not go over-center so they want to close naturally is the safest method for setting up the system for failsafe operation.
Generally you won't find tension springs on the ITB section of any Hillborn or mechanical injection setup. It's all compression springs on linkages, maybe the occasional torsional spring on the throttle body itself... but tension springs (unless doubled up and inside each other) are just not used all that much. That was a uniquely American OEM kind of thing and even then most linkages were 'poorly' designed on the centers to close (the Corvair being a notable exception---NO SPRINGS! All linkage weight and angularity to close the throttles!)
Keep that in mind when putting these things in, mechanical is always preferable to 'spring assisted' to move to a given point. If the spring breaks, that is where the ITB's will stay--and that may not be very good with an engine in "N" or with a broken driveshaft.
It's the reason most of these systems also employ Toe-Loops so you can pull the pedal back up physically if something goes wrong. With a strong linkage and no slop, a toe loop is a lifesaver---LITERALLY!
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Mine is 'old'! No O-rings just a nice line bore and a straight shaft with center pull (right where you usually hook up the bell crank for the metering block on the mechanical injection.)
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Baffled pan and an Accusump.
I have the small accusump in the passenger's floorboard/footwell area on my turbo 73---loose one turbo from oil starvation and you figure out Canton's Price is cheap insurance (cheaper than the baffled oil pan anyway!)
in the end, I got a baffled pan as well!
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Cool! Thanks, it's a Lisle, I can get them discounted through my wholesale discount at the NAPA store, now that I have a part number.
I would never think of Amazon selling car tools.
Amasing these internets!
Again, thanks!
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I have to agree with BJ on the Name Brand stuff. There is SOME stuff that I buy brand name because I like the way it feels, or it honestly does the job better than something cheaper (Snap-On Box Ends will fit where others won't...)
But I stopped the Snap-On Worship when I paid $105 for their die grinder (it's part number at the time ended with "105")
It got dropped on the floor and the air chuck broke off. No warranty there. Out of curiosity I bought a Harbor Freight Die Grinder that looked identical. Other than having 'Central Pneumatic' on it it seemed identical. Then I noticed the stamped 'japan' in the body. Damn it looked similar. Could it be...nah, never! I mean that one was $105, and this HF one was only $19...
So I did what anybody would do: took them apart. Damn if the bearings werent the same NTN bearings, the rotor assembly had the same number stamped on the end... For all I could see the internal rotating parts of the air motor were IDENTICAL between the $19 HF model and the $105 Snap On model. Colletts seemed identical, and BOTH seemed to burn out in our plant usage in about 6 months. (Vane Packet gone...)
Sooooooo, that was the last time I bought a Snap-On Pneumatic Die Grinder! Or most any other air tool from the brand name.
Same went for the Blue Point Grinders. I found they were nothing more than Rebranded Black and Decker Professional Series pieces in different boxes (with less accessories) and for 2 to 3X the cost.
I'll buy from the manufacturer, thankyouverymuch. That pass-through private branding BS is some MBA in Kenosha milking product name recognition and inflating the prices paid for no other reason than to generate false profits from nothing material being produced. When their pass-throughs get discovered they get upset, but so then do their newly-enlightened customers. Great way to foster brand loyalty: screw the customer by marking up something 300%, and then not offering the same warranty the OEM does!
But we digress...
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Yep, that's how you do it, cut out the center two barrels to make it fit on the L4.
Same for the L28E manifolds. Though I don't know why someone would want them, the L20B(E) manifolds and L18E (SSS) had far larger runners than the L-6 manifolds did. They just didn't offer those engines here, we got the LZ18
Doesn't look like the manifold is cut. Getting new tubes shouldn't be a problem. Very interesting placement of the injectors on that manifold, my Hillborn has the injectors on the bottom and MUCH nearer the throttle plates.
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5/8" = 15mm
0.625" = 0.6122"
This explains the 'close fit needing to be sanded down a bit'!
If you have a lathe you can make it niiiiice!
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Primed the carbs with the electric fuel pump, drained the accumulated rainwater from the spare tire well that accumulated, and fired it off after 2 months standing on the rooftop parking of 'The Parking Spot Century' at LAX. Paid $783 ransom to extricate it from the parking hell it was in, and drove it home at high speeds on a sunny Saturday afternoon.
Came across the valve caps yesterday while unpacking, so I guess they will go on next.
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Competition cars will have issues on turns, where the oil sloshes away from the pickup.
Jeff P did some oil pump testing and found when the oil pump was HOT (as in operating temperature) the clearances changed considerably, so checking them even on a new pump is worthwhile.
Follow the recommendations in the How To Modify book on oil flow and smoothing of oil ports. That is one area where 'match porting' will pay in increased flow to the engine.
To me it looks like F.O. went through the pump, I'd not reuse it when new are still available. I'd put it away for an 'emergency spare' maybe, but not put it back in the engine for competition use.
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The hinges where they bolt to the body have up, down, fore, and aft adjustment. They are damned tight from the factory, but someone playing with the doors may solve that tightness, and the alignment goes away with road bumps or in my case simple storage on stands and the chassis sags. Who really knows? I didn't attend to it really closely, I put the doors on and they weren't really close, but I bolted them down as it was 'just for storage'...that ended up being from 1991 to 2009... It's gotten much worse the past ten years. Originally they were only misaligned and overlapping by a decimal. Now it's closer to 1/8" or more. But the door closed and that was all I cared about to keep the mice and crap out!
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Do not drink and post!
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Yeah, I have to physically lift it. The doors were removed a long time ago, (FRP) and when I bolted on the replacements I wasn't too close on alignment. Seems they went worse as time went by. I'm sure I have to realign the hinges. When it gets up on priority list.
Right now, none of that happening.
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I didn't see "Banning" in your sig till later.
I had mine repaired at El Tapatio Tire in Moreno Valley. They are off Sunnymead Blvd behind/next to the U Haul Storage place, across from Grand Buffet, and directly behind the Sunnymead Drive-In Restaurant.
They aren't the place that repairs them, but they have a place that did my stock alloys. Probably closer for you than going all the way into Anaheim.
Wheel City in Corona may also be able to give you a place to go.
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It looks like a Hilborn system, not the Eggers and Vickers, plus it looks longer. Definately it's a carburetted intake bolt pattern.
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im assuming since they're asian, they probably used the s30 because its a respectable "asian" car. . cant deny the classic styling and lines of the beautiful s30
Well, you know what they say about assumptions...
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That doesn't have anything to do with the door alignment, it's a pin to help transfer the spring tension to stop the door swing.
The "pins that hold the pieces together" are what hold up the door. Grab the door frame with the door at a 45 degree angle open and lift/push down hard. You will see where your movement is---many times there isn't any.
My 71 had "sagged" so that the upper rearmost portion of the door window frame is actually hitting the quarter window. It's a hinge alignment loosening issue in that case. Or from sitting on jackstands wrong...
In any case, you can see how much 'sag' you have lifting on it and seeing where the pin is loose. Then replace the hinge. If it simply drops down when you open it, it may be misaligned hinges and nothing more.
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An accusump would be nice but I dunno, i don't really want to put it on the car since its just a street car.
Street Cars through their connecting rod through the block wall at #5 far more often than race-prepped engines do!
Revving to the top of the rpm range is not considered 'normal street use'...
Sounds like something may be wrong, as if you are only running to 6500 the oil pressure should not be fluctuating at that point (top of second) stock stuff should be good there. I was thinking a little higher than that, and maybe in a specific direction corner.
Maybe oil pump is weak, relief valve spring is weak, since this is an Electric Gauge could be simple high-rpm vibration making a bad intermittent contact on the sender sending a 'false signal'--mechanical gauge might help isolate it better to see if it's really a problem.
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Opening the throttle when coasting isn't "air injection".
Actually, if the injectors are shut off, it's EXACTLY what it is! Introducing straight 19% O2 into the exhuast on a straight ride-through the engine with no HC added. It provides post-combustion chamber O2 for combustion in the catalyst or exhaust manifold.
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where you get those?
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Actually it's venting the BOV portion based on minimum flow per psi (programmed in 'surge line slope' in industrial installations this is normally expressed in amps per psi...here it would be based on likely engine rpm and psi with some sort of modifier from the TPS signal as an 'overlord' which dumps pressure when rate-of-change indicates it is necessary.)
The thing is to have ONLY ONE BOV. The throttle drop BOV function is not necessary when the control being discussed is enabled. The reason for a 'drop throttle bov' is to stop minimum flow surge which stalls the compressor wheel and attempts to minimize turbine shaft speed drop on shifts. With this control of the wastegate, the drop will not be an issue, and by venting excess air based on surge point the surge issue ceases to be an issue.
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Exactly, Tim!
New 240Z Coupe Record at Bonneville
in Non Tech Board
Posted
THIS IS AN ABOMINATION!