Tony D
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Posts posted by Tony D
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My vapor tank works just fine with the 75 tank, make some 15mm adapters and plug a vent (not the top one), and connect the tubes.
I have been running a 1975 tank in my 73 since about 1988...
All my vapor hoses are 10mm though, not the 15mm that came stock. I adapted them all down with the same sort of nylon adapters Nissan used so I could make tank vent hoses out of normal available fuel hose, and not try to find 15mm (5/8") vacuum/pcv hose suitable for gas transport. First car I did it to, and because of the results, was not the last. I can put 5PSI in my tank, and it will HOLD there overnight with the crankcase vent and fuel / fuel return line blocked off properly.
That's fuel system integrity! No gas smell in my car. Since 1988.
Is that any clearer? No chance in hell of getting a drawing, the panels are in place and have been since '90, don't plan on removing them any time soon---plus they are in So Cal and I'm in Tokyo right now making looking at them nigh near impossible! My explanation of the conversion process for this car and my 510 Wagon is elsewhere but I'll recap it again briefly:
Take small stubs of real 15 mm (5/8") fuel line (not Heater Hose!) of about 2.5" in length, do whatever you normally do to the ends---I wrap mine in electrical tape so they do not extrude through unlined worm gear clamps. Install these on the vents, with clamps. Plug the lowest vent line you can, the highest one is really the only one you need, and REALLY you can connect the lower one with the higher one with 10mm "T" fittings and a length of 10mm fuel line to retain that vent's function.
Anyway, when you have all the little stubs of 15mm hose on there and clamped, then stick the 15x10mm adapter fittings in there and run the 10mm fuel line up through the floor raise the tank and strap it in. Then connect the fittings on the tank using the same method: 15 or 12x10 adapters. I have "T'd" hoses together and hooked them to a common port as well as put them all together and eliminated the tank when I couldn't get one---I would NOT recommend not having an expansion tank with this setup---it WILL hold pressure and can sink your floats on the SU's if you fill on a cold morning and let the car sit in the sun---there will be over 5psi in the tank by noon, and this fuel will either be discharged to your crankcase, or into the SU's and down in to the cylinders. My car uses a non-usa filler neck to vent overboard....to the ground. Save the planet...
With the 10mm hoses, you can run them three at a time almost through the stock floor hole, and shrink tube the opening. Cap the rest with plastic caps or other airtight sealants to keep cabin integrity. RTV works nice if you put masking tape on the bottom of the opening and fill the penetration (the little vertical tube) solid with RTV and let it solidify.
You will do this ONCE. The 10mm or 8mm fuel line (I have used both, 15mm is WAY overkill!) lasts FOREVER compared to the original lines. I ran EFI hose since I had it, but carburettor hose should be fine. Any of the vent lines only need carbureted rated hose---there will never be that much pressure in the tank, even with EFI. DO NOT use carburetted fuel line hose on fuel suction, pump outlet to hardpipe, or hardpipe to fuel tank return fitting!
One other thing is that on the 1/4" fitting at the front topish portion of the tank (if I recall) is where I ran my EFI fuel return---there may have been one that was easier to get to---so I used EFI Fuel Line Hose to that one from the Vapor Recovery line. VENTING is now accomplished by taking the highpoint vent (1/4") to the topmost portion of the tank, making a 'double loop' and ziptying it in place above the expansion tank, then running it out the same hole in the floor where it vents through a K&N filter. You can do this through the expansion tank top fitting as well---the one that used to go to the vapor line---I'm assuming you are using this for fuel return as well, so you have to make an alternate vent! Just double loop the hose, zip tie it in place, and then run the vent outside to a small filter so bugs and dirt don't get in an plug it. Venting off the top of the expansion tank will RARELY if EVER let gas dump to the ground in raw form. Venting directly off the top of the tank through a loop and without an expansion tank can get raw gas dumping on the ground so that is why you want to keep that expansion space available, especially if you FILL your tank!
Got to run to dinner. Any questions ask, this was done in a rush and I may have garbled it a bit. Sorry.
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"I don't care what anybody says anymore. I have 100% determined that the condenser has something to do with it. "
Man, I'm so glad I don't have to try anymore. Good luck with that! Let somebody know when it's fixed just don't do it every step of the way, wait until it's fixed and give us all the condensed version.
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after much waiting and apparently a site crash:
"If the coil is not being switched, the injectors will not fire. The ECU requires 3 pulses on the coil negative to pulse the injectors once. With power "on" simply tapping the negative of the coil to ground and producing a spark will trigger the injectors. Every third tap the injectors should click (if you aren't getting a spark, use a decent ground!)"
I don't know how to put that much clearer. If you are simply tapping the wire from the negative post on the coil to ground and resistors are glowing red hot and you are smelling smoke something is FUBAR in your setup and you've neglected to inform us of modifications or something along those lines.
Tapping of the negative side of the coil with power applied to the postivie side is electrically the same as the gating action of the transistor ignition unit, save for the capacitor discharge that gives the initial coil saturation. If you were getting spark cranking the car, this test simulates that without all the noise so you can hear the injectors click every third event (or see the noid light flash...) This should precipitate nothing different than cranking the car.
If things are glowing red hot and smoking, you got serious problems.
I don't know what 'getting spark off the negative coil post' is supposed to mean---I don't know where that came from, it wasn't in the instructions given, and I have no frame of reference for what it's relevance is supposed to be. There should be a blue-white spark out of the coil wire directed to a ground of at least 0.25" If it pops, every third pop should preceipitate a click from the injectors.
Did you hook up the wire that senses negative on both ends (blue wire separate from the harness at the ECU and hooks to the coil negative post?)
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Let me ask anybody justifying being intimidated about posting on an anonomyous internet chat site...
If you feel 'intimidated' asking an anonomyous question over the internet (and remembering that you said "we were all beginners once") how does that compare to US, the 'old guys' who actually had to go face-to-face to some greasy mean looking old SOB that looked like a serial killer to ask the very same question you are intimidated about TYPING ANONOMOUSLY to a group which has no physical connection to you nor can see you or harm you in any way?
I mean for GOD'S SAKE MAN! GROW A SAC!
If the internet was available for information gathering when I was a kid, I'd have mutated into a self-levitating brain sac of knowledge by this time! There IS NO INTIMIDATION to ask the question (and maybe there SHOULD BE!)
The point I was making earlier was that the behaviour of THINKING BEFORE POSTING is LEARNED and something someone chooses to do or not to do.
The RULES of the site say to THINK FIRST BEFORE POSTING. (Generally paraphrasing...)
It's common courtesy. If you are 'intimidated' by posting here, how in gods name would you have survived technical training or the information transfer process before 1985?
Really, this place is EASY to get knowledge from if you care to read. Just reading the stickies will give you what it took some people 20+ years to learn. All free, without EVER having to ask a SINGLE question.
But what it does entail is EFFORT on the part of the noob. Nothing good ever comes without effort. If you are unwilling to expend the effort, then why should anybody expend the effort towards you? Ever hear the phrase 'in one ear and out the other'? If you don't work for it, that is likely the reaction to any answer someone spoons to a noob.
And before someone says 'Elitist Site' in some pejorative context, remember that it's the vanguard, the elite that blaze the trail so the cows have a place to graze. Without the doers, the hangers on a hoi poloi don't have anything to glam on to and survive off!
Seriously, the place has rules, and if you have watched ANYTHING that has happened in the past three years at ZCar.com you will see EXACTLY what happens when putting someone's "right to voice an opinion, even if it's wrong (this place is for entertainment value, man!)" attitude gets you! It's happened to one site already in the Z World, I don't personally want to ever witness it here.
Like John C said, this place is NOT 'Automotive 101' if you want basic answers, look elsewhere. If you want TECHNICAL INFORMATION THAT ISN'T BS AND BLUSTER come here and ask.
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Think the units are on the back of the printout... PPM or something like that.
I have a full box of these left over from compressor business. I think they charge like $30 a pop!
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There is always the possibility of a local ground connection to earth via static line as well. Very common in the field.
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Hell Hoov, it even has that spoiler on it! I thought it was some tacky add-on!
I didn't expect much, a run of the Mill RB20DET or RB20ET (forget what it was in base GT then) with an intercooler. That would sit fine with me as a daily driver. I remember the day they hit the showroom. Several of us went to the Prince Dealer in Naha to go see and I remember thinking when I walked in the showroom "I'd buy that as a family sedan."
Last car I thought about that quickly was the Buick GNX.
But RX7? Bleeeyah!
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That looks a lot like the Honda Switch I had earlier in my car's lifetime. I went to an adjustable without a submerged element simply because it was easier to manage with stock radiator hoses.
That switch seemed to work, but I was able to tailor my fan engagement.
Now, for use in a differential oil cooler pump application.... posibilities abound!
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The key being someone else is the discoverer. They rate your car worthy. If you self promote, well... we covered that eventuality already.
If you want to sell it, there's a reason they call it 'flogging'...
Come to think about it, I think my lil bro had an internet video call service going involving his hand... I wonder if he could sell it now for more money than before the internet venture. I mean, if I recognized the hand, I wouldn't want to buy it knowing what it had done!
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What in the world??? Is that green adhesive holding the rearview mirror on or just a sticker?
That's an inspection sticker. It's not 'green velcro' some people grasp I was trying to figure out where green velcro was coming from, now it kind of makes sense.
But RX 7 Body?
What am I missing about the 'lock mechanisim'---someone got x-ray eyes? I don't see one should I?
Some time ago there were contentions that GTR's were made LHD from the factory, which at the time according to Nissan was not the case.
The existence of a LHD Skyline GT DOES however make it possible that a conversion that looked factory could exist. I was under the impression the R32 was not Exported as a GT-R, but subsequent models were. I just found it surprising that in the middle of rice paddies filled with Carabao and lounging yellow cows that there lies an R32 Skyline GT which has LHD.
It was NOT what I was expecting to see. Given the criticality of the commentary here, I guess I should have stopped and taken more photos and asked to see the hood lifted for more details. But I was in a rush to get back to Manila.
This is on the road to the San Miguel Cavite Yamamura Metal Container Plant outside (south) of Manila Philippines if anybody wants to cruise by and snap more photos. My GPS is out, so sorry no coordinates for precise geolocation of the prized booty. (er, let me rephrase that...)
I'll make a point of it next visit, typhoon coming or not. I got to dispell this RX 7 Rebody swarf once and for all. That's a reach in my book. a BIG reach.
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This is how it started at ZCar.com as well. "Tolerance, understanding, and slackening of standards of excellence to dumb it down for the LCD."
There was a time being a kid meant being humble. Being appreciative for any answer given. Asking in a respectful way.
If I asked the way some noobs asked, even in High School Shop Class, I would have had a Lugnut or Sparkplug thrown at me by the instructor and a stern Tuteonic Scolding about THINKING before asking such a question.
I guess it's all kinder and gentler now. Raise their self esteem, right? Give them a star for asking the question.
If someone is never told "NO" in firm tones, they will NEVER learn a societies rules.
HybridZ is a society. In this society there are rules. This isn't 'Nam.
Sorry John, I just couldn't resist the direction my own digression was headed...
<EDIT: Yes, we did get scalp wounds, Rudy had a good eye with those damn nuts and plugs. (We all thought it was strange why he insisted we all wear our safety glasses as we crossed the threshold into the shop area. The first time the lugnut flew, we knew instinctively this was business and WEAR THOSE SAFETY GLASSES!) Those who went to the Principal and complained were met with "The Greasy Grey Line" response: he slipped and put a spanner in his noggin, he wasn't watching what he was doing and knocked his head on a rocker panel while the car was on the lift...
In two cases the teacher had the students expelled from the class (getting thrown out of AUTO SHOP---imagine that! Where all the other misfits and smokers congregated...) when they complained. His justification was given to the principal loudly: They are too dangerous to work around machinery, I can't be responsible to baby sit them, they are supposed to be learning a trade! They are incapable, I don't want them in my class. (Imagine some teacher holding to a standard like that today!) Where did they go? Home Economics and Business Machines (the only two other classes in that block of hours!)
So even in the 70's kids were being 'banned' by mean "old" teachers who, now 40 years on I am damn glad to say I'm HAPPY they held the line on excellence and did not let me succumb to the easy answer, the quick fix, or the short road test. It makes you better. If you are not up to it, consider another hobby. I hear business machine repair and cooking potroasts and cakes is particularly rewarding.
In one of the two cases, the kid begged to be let back into class after a week in cooking class. The business machines teacher was an Ex Marine from a pacific campaigns, and NOBODY messed with him. But it was the baking and being seen with all the girls the one guy couldn't stand. He stopped asking stupid questions, started THINKING, and actually made the grade at the end of the year despite getting a '0' for every day he missed in Baking Class. Proving to me that it IS A LEARNED BEHAVIOUR! They can change it if they choose. But if you coddle them at first, then pushing the limits becomes the normal mode of operation. STay firm from the beginning, and people who WANT to change will. Those who won't can fail business machines AND home economics and as a result go to adult ed the year after they graduate to get their diploma....>
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My vapor tank works just fine with the 75 tank, make some 15mm adapters and plug some vents save for the top one, and connect the tubes.
I have been running a 1975 tank in my 73 since about 1988...
All my vapor hoses are 10mm though, not the 15mm that came stock. I adapted them all down with the same sort of nylon adapters Nissan used so I could make tank vent hoses out of normal available fuel hose, and not try to find 15mm (5/8") vacuum/pcv hose suitable for gas transport. First car I did it to, and because of the results, was not the last. I can put 5PSI in my tank, and it will HOLD there overnight with the crankcase vent and fuel / fuel return line blocked off properly.
That's fuel system integrity! No gas smell in my car. Since 1988.
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Yep, that's how that manifold comes. It's set up for L20A ports, I think, which are much smaller than the L24/26/28 ports.
Incorrect, the manifold was set up for L24 ports. The Mikuini Manifold Ports are larger than an L20A by approximately 1mm radially.
The 'port matching' phenomenon has shown to be a red herring for the most part. What people are now realizing that having STEP from the intake manifold to the head (manifold SMALLER than the head by some margin) actually HELPS with low speed drivability by creating an anti-reversionary effect in the intake pulse.
I have mine unaltered, I was pleased with the results. Once you make it larger, it's hard as hell to bring it back to a size smaller! If anything, I'd not go any larger than 1mm diametrically at the extreme outside unless the head is being worked. The whole theory behind the Mikuini manifold was the ability to RAISE THE PORT ROOF to allow a better shot at the back of the valve. If anything, ADDING material at the bottom of the runner is what is required, in addition to welding in the floor of the stock intake port!
But the Mikuini Manifold was specifically designed with bolt-on application to the L24 and L28 in mind. The L20A was not a consideration, and Mikuini really didn't sell a lot of these castings domestically. Which is strange. My manifold was ALWAYS a source of curiosity amongst the Japanese. EVERYBODY had the original Datsun/Nissan Competition Parts, or knockoff copy therein. Or FET/SK which were smaller by a great margin than the runners on the Mikuini Manifold. Visibly so!
Matter of fact, the L20A with a Mikuini Manifold running 44PHH's will start to 'breathe' at 180kph in 5th gear and start responding snappily. Below that speed, it's a bit soggy in performance...
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If you read the applicable Mikuini Material regarding their manifold, they intentionally made the runners smaller for boring up to size as dictated by head build. If you make a manifold too big, you're screwed if the ports you have are smaller. As a manufacturer, it only makes sense to make the SMALLEST runner possible and then let the user tailor it to the build.
I'd not screw with it, port matching will gain you nothing if the manifold is smaller than the intake port. That manifold bolted on with a set of 44PHH's was a 22% bump in HP for the L24, and somewhere in the area of 8-12% over a comparably EFI equipped L28. BOLT ON JET CORRECTED.
Dyno pulls were done at the Mikuini Facility in Northridge, and verified at several SoCal Dyno Facilities at the time. It was a rock-solid modification.
That unported 'doesn't flow well' manifold BTW, pumped 350HP to the rear wheels on a non-ported N42 Head in Blowthrough Turbocharged Form, and was 165 to the rear wheels in N/A form.
You may want to reconsider 'improving' it until you do real head work and cam changes. That was with a 44PHH on them, with a 40PHH, and a smaller carb...I'd leave it alone!
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Fix your vacuum leak by using a new intake manifold gasket and proper sealant.
On an aside, make sure the float level is correct and that you simply are not continually pouring fuel down the bottom of the manifold to 3 & 4 with a level making the gas run out the main jet continually.
You have mixture distribution issues, and outside of a bad float level deluging 3 & 4, improper manifold torquing and vacuum leaks would account for the rest.
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I have seen some guys have an o-ring groove cut into their flange and use copper wire to seal them. Trick as heck!
I always wondered about high temp o-rings since they are used in aircraft turbines, but with the copper wire setup being so simple and trick, why not?
I, too run red RTV on my flanges. Keep them flat and true and there will not be a problem, the RTV will stand up and not blow out.
If it does, you always can o-ring them!
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Just get some air correctors and main jets. You will be making less than 350HP and the main jets will be humongous for what you need without the turbo.
My car had two sets of jets, I could swap from Turbo to N/A in about 45 minutes including the jet swap.
The size jets yetterben was running were an order of magnitude larger than what we ran on our record holding N/A Bonneville car!
Other than jetting down, that's about it... I blew my turbo at MSA on Saturday, and was N/A at the car show Sunday Morning sporting a Red ITG Air Cleaner and plastic sharks on it. "Wasn't this thing turbocharged at the Auto X yesterday?"
Yes, yes it was. Got up at 4AM, and left the house at 5AM as an N/A. Piece of cake.
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Most people reading those magazines wouldn't get use from the information.
There are some technical-driven car mags with really in-depth articles. They cost upwards of 44$US standard delivery for 6 issues a year. Most people who buy hotrod or carcraft aren't in that league of inqusitiveness.
Then, there's always a subscription to SAE papers which will give you access to a mind-boggling array of technical papers beyond your wildest dreams.
Again, this costs money and provides depth of knowledge most people don't want to hear.
If it's that important to know how that stuff interacts, talk to Ron at Isky Racing Cams. He can go on for an hour till your head hurts specifically on the dynamics of the L-Engine Camshaft. Then go on for another hour contrasting that against what a SBC cam is supposed to do, and how the Datsun differs from a BMW OHC which looks amazingly similar but does not use an assymetric profile.
And there I go referring you to a third party as well. If the information you want isn't there, THAT'S THE BEST THING TO DO. They have a limited space for editorial content, and for all the people they satiate with in-depth technicalarticles, they alienate the core base of subscribers who are there for glossy photos, semi-hung jugs obscuring the paint job, and technical puffery good for benchracing with the guys over beers at the local car club. If you truly are interested, you will seek out the information. They have given a source. To complain about it won't change it, they didn't need to credit a source, they could have left it with the basics.
Anybody wanting to learn about cam dynamics in the L-Engine should simply look up the Racer Brown Articles. The Engineering Basis for what is in them has NOT CHANGED since they were written in the early 70's. They likely are the definitive published piece to be referred to when discussing L-Engine Camshafts. But that's not what that article was, it was technical puffery on camshaft basics for the teenagers out there who wonder what is inside that lump of iron in dad's Impala out back.
For those wanting more, there are two good 3rd party sources referenced. If you still have questions after reading Racer Brown, talk to Ron. I can't imagine not understanding or being completely versed on the dynamics after a visit to just those two reference points in regards to an L-Engine Camshaft. You want to learn about SBC's, then there are other places to look... It's all out there. That someone tells you where to look is not a bad thing.
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The methodology to test injector pulse was given. No test was performed or results logged just more statements.
Given your statements, in the absence of testing as suggested, you have a bad input circuit on the ECU and need to replace it.
I know this likely isn't the proper answer, but with what you are giving me to work with, it is the only logical conclusion.
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Or the bottom of the manifold has so much fuel pooled in it that it's running on fumes and residue.
Seen JeffP's car do that for 5 minutes with no fuel pressure whatsoever.
An aside: What gauge are you using. Cheap gauges are never reliable as a measure of fuel pressure. They are more for show than anything reliable. Where is the gauge and where did it come from?
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Most high horsepower injection systems inject at the air horn. Making a bridge to hold the injectors is simple with some aluminum a drill press and some screws. If you have a fuel rail section, you are set up to make an F1 Style injection setup out of just about anything with a throttle bore on it.
People decry "TBI" but go take a look at every F1 Engine out there, and what most Hondas/Mazdas/Toyota/Etc are now doing with their ITB's!
Injectors in the middle of the air horn. Great atmoization, and plenty of time for homogenization of the mixture down the intake tract.
The earlier comment was in response to Hillborn supposedly having conversion fittings for their existing injection setups to convert to EFI. No welding needed. The adapters screw in to the original holes for the mechanical injection nozzles, and allow the EFI injectors to be positioned there. For the bent manifold, this may be problematic due to proximity to the header. Heat shielding may be in order. They have since stopped offering this stuff, though BDS does offer a conversion 'package' for older manifolds. The Stock EFI stuff on the rally cars injected through bungs that put the injector midway on the 'carb body' and injected just after the throttle plate near the ITB/Comp Manifold Juncture. Still quite a ways upstream of the stock EFI manifold and it's emissions-dictated back-of-the-valve requirements.
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No, a condenser is a noise suppression device.
If you don't have an injector pulse, do you have a spark pulse?
If the coil is not being switched, the injectors will not fire. The ECU requires 3 pulses on the coil negative to pulse the injectors once. With power "on" simply tapping the negative of the coil to ground and producing a spark will trigger the injectors. Every third tap the injectors should click (if you are getting a spark, use a decent ground!)
People forget that if the distributor goes TU, the injection system won't work. It shouldn't. No spark means no fuel. That is a safety device for a crash stall. Earlier cars used an AFM interlock to stop the fuel pump, later cars used an oil pressure switch. That way in an accident when it stalls, the lack of a spark pulse kills the injectors from flooding the engine, and lack of airflow or oil pressure stops the fuel pump in case there's a broke fuel line causing a gas spill and immolation of the occupants and a ghastly and malodorous Car-B-Que.
Mmmmm, "Long Pig Roasting" quipped our guide as we trekked the Kokoda Trail. We looked forward to supping on this mythical creature we had heard so much about. Wew turned the corner and were confronted by tribesmen all holding spears and...
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Did you use the proper fuel feed hose that doesn't put a humongo side-load on the jets cocking them and making them stick. EVERY one I have seen where they used conventional 1/4 or 3/16" fuel hose has a binding problem.
There should be no issue requiring springs to return the jets all the way up. If they don't go there, there is something rubbing, sticking, or gummed up.
But as I said, using the wrong fuel hose will do it almost every time unless you trimmed the hose and fit it VERY carefully. Same goes for the clamps as well, I have successfully used high temp wire ties in place to the stock wire bails on the proper hoses, but using wormgear screw clamps seems to do something that makes them twist and not want to seat correctly.
I'd pull em back off, and go over them CAREFULLY (the bore cleaning brush is an excellent idea!) As long as the linkages are all straight, not binding, and everything is free and clear they should pretty much drop in themselves when inverted as well.
Good Luck.
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With the breakup on the top end, much less than it should have.
I would guess around 400+ as that's about where we started seeing the wheel move in the wheel well (not climbing up the rollers which most people seemed obsessed about---look at the clearance between the wheel and the LEADING EDGE of the fenderwell!)
JeffP moved his rear subframe back 0.375" and that is likely the only thing that kept us from cutting a tire doing the pulls. Likely it's what occurred on Oz's Bonneville spin (posted elsewhere.)
There was another posuer posting about a '500HP L20A at 15psi' who simply refused to address what they did to keep the wheel from deflecting. Like they didn't have an issue. If you don't have an issue with a ZX wheel moving forward in the wheel well under power, you ARE NOT making 400+HP to the rear wheels. Pleas don't claim to 'use the right sized tires with plenty of clearance' or claim 'there are no issues with rubbing we have the correct wheel offsets'... Those are all sidesteps to the basic question: how do you address the wheel movement. Claiming it isn't an issue with stock sized tires smacks of never making any real power.
If you make power in a ZX, this should bother you. It bothered Jeff so much he relocated the subframe back on solid bushings 0.375"! This one looks like it's moving more, and getting dangerously close to cutting a tire. I'm guessing on stock subframe bushings. I'd suggest you get to the machinist with the drawing from JeffP's website and fix your suspension before something blows up and sends high speed rubber all over the dyno room!
<Edit: Oh, I see there was a dyno sheet posted, so the guessing game was over by the time I saw this...As for Dyno Jet Numbers, I'm with those who say 'if you want Dynojet Numbers, go to a Dynojet' or 'give me a couple of minutes and I'll change parameters for any power you want to see'---you have what you have on your dyno sheet, nothing more than that. I don't think anybody with integrity uses a Dynojet for anything but bragging rights anyway. Mustang is traceable to NIST, so are many others, without the calbiration sheet for the run, any claim is nothing more than numbers on a sheet of paper. Some of us here aren't impressed by idle bragging. So you made power---you want a cookie? Fix the trailing arm before someone gets killed. I made 325HP in a VW Microbus when I was 19...I would like to think I gained enough wisdom to know doing so was probably mighitly stupid as the chassis wasn't ready for it. This appears to be the case on this car as well. If you run it on the street at this power level, please make sure it's only yourself you kill, and not someone in an oncoming lane or innocent vagrant walking down the shoulder!
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73 240z Turbo with a 75 280z gas tank
in Fuel Delivery
Posted
Back from dinner, realized I mixed up my original 73 tank and 75 tank in some respects. When using the 73 tank, you have to use the top 1/4" vent port to run your return line to (the stock 3/16" runner is too small) so you need a supplemental vent for expansion and contraction.
When you use the 280Z tank, you can use the regular 280Z return line, it's big enough---so the stock high point vent is OK to route to the expansion tank.