Tony D
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Posts posted by Tony D
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Frankly, from what you described, you did absolutely nothing. Double that for being stock cam and intake manifold.
Seriously, the port work is in the bowl under the valve, not in 'port matching' or making the runner bigger. Quite the contrary. Matter of fact I have seen ports that flow 215cfm+ on the intake on runners sized to the FIA Homogolated 35mm diameter dimension.
Really the trick is to get the flow WITHOUT a runner diameter increase on the head. By that point, it's directional and velocity you are working on. Increasing the diameter of the port at that point (unless you started at 50mm at the triple manifold flange...) is the LAST thing you want to do!
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Its shown me I gotta read maximum boost to really know what's going on
Go to The Great Salt Lake so you will have enough grains of salt to work with what is in Mr. Bells wonderful sales tool "Maximum Boost".
Remember how old that book is now and how outdated some of the mythology contained therein really is!
It's like reading Bob Tomlinsons book in the 80's, chock full of state-of-the-art 1970 information!
The guy was selling his kits, and he promotes them pretty well in the book. Some stuff is valid, but don't read it like he's the prophet. Like Jesus or Mohammed, they both had an agenda to peddle and plenty of adherents in their day.
But the times move on... Just know there is more out there than the book. At the time it came on the scene, it was head and shoulders over Bob's book. But it will take a while to let Corky's book go the way of Bob's. Simply because he has the internet and an advertising machine to keep peddling it out there to the unsuspecting masses of noobs thirsty for knowledge.
"Always regard the promises of a salesman, or the advice from one in the same light."
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Hey I FIT in the seat, those damn non-adjustable belts set up for Spadanoesque midriffs is what did me in.
Ask Steve McQueen: The Blob chased him places he NEVER thought it would fit, but DID!
Same with me, I fit in stuff, but generally restraint devices defy me...
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"I know I have heard of people running 2 headgaskets but every car buddy I mention it to is like "no no" "
My suggestion: For every one of those guys who says it, ASK THEM WHY THEY SAY NO.
Then, when they explain it, ask them why they are saying that.
Repeat this four more times to every answer they give you.
They can not use 'I knew a guy who' or 'because' in ANY response, that invalidates it.
If they can't stand up to the "Five Whys Test" they don't know WTF they are talking about, and should be disregarded on the issue.
MANY self-proclaimed 'experts' fail this test. That means they're not experts.
It's a good test to give yourself before posting a response to anything as well...
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Seriously??
Go to another site if you just want people to agree with whatever willy-nilly idea you dream up.
Calling him a wanker for giving advice. Really?
"Legitimate" reason for not doing it is terribly subjective, if you leave open-ended phrases like that in a post you ask for what you get in return. I know plenty of legitimate reasons not to do some things, yet people will discount them nonetheless.
If this is an engineering exercise for the point of doing it SAY SO UP FRONT. Putting in statements that "you have read about the engine" gives the impression that you aren't operating in the real-world sphere of possibility.
I wouldn't touch a 7M if you gave it to me. Bad experiences in the past.
2JZ, different story. Cheap, plentiful, a real popular swap into BMW's here in Thailand.
But a 7M? I got to go with the above comment about it's host being a boat and the suspension being a wash.
Get a ZX and start with a competent platform to begin with if you want 400 (+) horsepower to be useable. Then you can go 5 lug with ease and it's a bolt-in swap.
But again, unless you are competing where a 5 lug is mandatory (for instance 200+MPH at Bonneville...) why bother?
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You wont find Fairlady 260Z Photos because they were all recalled, and the L26's replaced with L20A's and the VINs restamped to plain "S30" from "RS30"...
The Fairlady stayed true to the original concept of the Z from start to end of the run in 1977. They added what they had to for emissions, but the lines stayed the same.
NON-US specification 260Z's DID NOT get the reinforcements like North America, they too had the same bumpers as a Fairlady.
When the ZX came out, the JDM and US specification cars had the same shock-mounted bumpers, but the Eurospec cars had lookalike shells with light sheetmetal behind them to hold the shape of the plastic cover, no door beams, and no bumper shocks. They are the lightest pieces to be had if you have a ZX and want to pare it down. The JDM cars didn't have the door beams, but they didn't have mirrors on the doors like the Eurospec cars did...
My fountian of useless knowledge pukes forth another gout of thickly congealed Z-Related Mucus....
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I do my best to support my TAIWAN namesake company: "King Tony"
For King Tony, there's only one tool that is fit for a King: "KING TONY TOOLS"
"It don't got yer name on it...er...waitaminit, I guess it IS your tool, your Majesty!"
Google it up if you think I'm FOS, there are guys at ZCar that would melt down if they saw my tool roll!
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nottagodamnedthing...
But I did stop have a nice bowl of chicken-foot soup instead!
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Since Gollum Necro-Posed to this one, it gives me a chance to comment on something said earlier:
"Exactly, its not just engine torque, its the torque at the wheels. 4.62 gears, 275 ft. lbs. in my old 2,100 lb. NA race car pushed me and my passengers back in the seat very well from 4,000 to 7,500 rpms."
Cheap narrow-seat buying, short belted SOB! Not this prospective passenger it didn't!
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Leon got it...
I put Petronix in my Euro Distributor, as well as another (Luminition) in the DLP REcurved unit.
I only have the E12-80 in cars that came with it...but have been doing Pertronix, Luminition, etc conversions for decades.
What a pointless discussion...
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"I am simply restating what I have read in the book maximum boost pages 70,and 73-74.As for pre-turbo injection. Why would you want to compress and as a result add heat to a substance that the whole goal of using in the first place is to cool?When you can inject it post turbo and keep it cool from the start...In an EFI engine I just don't see why you would want to induce any more drag into your turbo than the air that it moves. "
Please re-read the last sentence on my previous post on this matter as this statement makes it eminently applicable.
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Argh,
this place is ZCar.Comming more and more every day... No disrespect Ernest but dude, but if you haven't started on your car, what are you drawing on to comment other than internet correspondence? I have addressed each of your myths before, I'm not retreading them again.OTHER than to say your statement about preturbo injection 'not being correct' is just plain WRONG. It does not MATTER whether it's pre or post turbo. Injection BEFORE the turbo will give the same state-change as after the turbo, with the advantage of not needing a high pressure pump to inject and atomize it. The turbo blades make a nice homogenizer in that respect.
If you don't understand the physical forces acting on a given modification, please take the time to reserve comment until you do understand them.
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Guys, you are talking to the guy who retrofitted the Japanese Self Defense Force MJ1 Bomblift with chrome engine tins and dual carbs. No suspension, hydrostatic drive, and rear drive-wheel steering. The guy who beat a 'he was jumping the bomblift driving down the flightline sir! apprehension by letting the officer drive the thing and determine for himself if it was possible (he determined it was NOT and indeed it WAS an 'optical illusion' as I convinced them it was (yeah, I was jumping it...) Look up USAF Munitions Handler, MJ1A and see what I'm talking about... The Japanese had VW industrial engines while we were saddled with (in the old days) Wisconsin MV4HD air cooled V-4's. Later we got diesels. I prefered the VW setup. Man THAT one cooked!
It's all about how you set it up.
The Widomaker, btw, was running dual hydrostatic motors off a single pump---one driving each wheel up front. Likely it was driving at some predetermined ratio determined by pump/motor size ratio, avaialble flow, and horsepower. Like I said, it was lever-controlled for the split from zero upwards, so that tells me it was likely a variable swashplate arrangement like the Sunstrand Dennison Pumps (or Hydromatiks) used in aircraft hydraulic test stands.
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please read the thread.
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IT'S TONIGHT FOR ME NOW! I want it I want it I want it! NOW NOW NOW!
(Channelling Noobs from another site...)
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has anyone ever thought about capping the upper t stat housing and making a coolant manifold similar to the one on the os giken head? drill above each cylinder and at the end of the manifold install a thermostat. would this work.
Yes, it's been done, photos are in the archives.
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I have the valve cover off that car! Bought it off Steven (yes, in Pearl... that's like telling someone I live in L.A. right? Perris, where the hell is THAT?
)At one time that car had a "Nissan 2000OHC" valve cover on it... and I told Steven if he ever wanted to sell it. Well, one day I got a call while laying about in a FEMA Trailer in St. Bernard's Parrish and VOOM! I was ON THAT THING!
Good too see someone got some use out of the 2/2 (FYI, they didn't have 2+2's in Japan, they were 2/2's...as the grille emblem should say!)
Someone can chime in on four screw years... I think there were three spacers early (pre 71), 71/72, and 73/74.
The difference in the first two is the bottom shape, they will 'work' and seal vaccum wise as long as no water is attached to the manifold. The later thick ones are the ones where the linkage is longer (73-74).
These are US Spec Carbs with four mounting studs, right? Not the two-stud 38mm jobs from the Fairlady correct?
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So that old Nissan Comp 3.08 wasn't real?
NOW you might only find a 3.36 readily, but some years ago there was at least one ratio lower.
R230 has the 2.90 set available....
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What kind of efficiency was that guy getting? 14mph? The Widowmaker was running bogs at well over that speed with VW Power!
He must have some hellacious leakage on that hydrostatic drive setup if an L28 won't power it.... especially with it's steady-state ability at higher revs!
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Back in the 80's there was a guy running the competitive mudbog drag circuit with a black VW Powered AWD car called "The Widowmaker"...
The rest of the competitors complained and protested because he thought to use Hydraulics to run motors on the front wheels in conjunction with the conventional transmission out back so he could alter how much power went to the fronts. When he would start bogging from rear drive only, he slid the lever and had the fronts dragging the mudbuggy along.
Sanctioning judge had a real succinct answer for the protesters: "You guys are running Blown Hillborn Injected V8's and you are whining because you can't beat a little Beetle-Bug four-banger running some hydro pumps on the front wheels? Give me a break! Get competitive or give it up!"
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Buying that, flying to Colorado, and driving it back would have been WAAAAY cheaper than the project sitting in my back yard...
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But what of the VIN Number? Are these Chop-Shop Counterfits with the same VIN?
I'm sure the feds will be all over this one like the Skylines with falsed-up numbers!
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There is a photo of the rear of the engine, showing the turbocharger piping on the dyno like if you were standing to the driver's side 3/4 view. The engine/trans plate is clearly on there, and if I recall, there is a bit down below that you can make out for the 'front' mount. With the engine laid over as much as they did, I'm wondering if it wasn't just a front single prop like a tripod mounting arrangement.
I'm near U-Tapao AFB Thailand, and my copy is several days travel away, otherwise I could do a quick browsing and give you page numbers.
This isn't much help, but (you can see why a shot on the dyno is more helpful!)...
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Funny thing is, I'm about 100 km from where the RPG scene was shot...
It's a debate if I try to make a 'weekend trip' for some RPG Action
Seriously??
this place is ZCar.Comming more and more every day... No disrespect Ernest but dude, but if you haven't started on your car, what are you drawing on to comment other than internet correspondence? I have addressed each of your myths before, I'm not retreading them again.
240z Which a-arm is upside down?
in S30 Series - 240z, 260z, 280z
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The REAL answer to that question depends upon another question: Which side of the car is up at the moment...