Tony D
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Posts posted by Tony D
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You can always have the exhaust exit through a modified tunnel under the driver or passenger's seat and out the rocker panel area...
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holy necroposts batman! I think this was solved 6 years ago! someone wants to post something up for sale in the classifieds in a big way if they're responding to this now...
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Seems to be a lot of stuff popping up now. Site seems to bog and load slower as well.
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" I will try timeing it by ear first if that doesn't work then troubleshoot the distributor as per the fsm."
Enjoy your process. When you want to do things scientifically and actually solve the problem with the least amount of drama, let us know.
Good Luck!
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most windowscreen these days is nylon. You can get stainless mesh from McMaster-Carr supply, it's a lifetime replacment if it's SS.
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Buy a multimeter instead of parts, and start checking things out instead of replacing them. When something else happens down the road, at least you will still be able to use the multimeter.
What's the gap on the plugs? What is the resistance of the plug wires? What is the power to the coil and pick doing when this happens?
I had an intermittent heat problem which caused a water injection unit in the car to make the electronic ignition in my car do strange things like that---tach went crazy, backfired and popped like a points car with a bad condenser.
Don't know where Doylestown was, but I was in Export and Jeanette a couple weeks ago...
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The Nismo 780KG clutch was rated to hold 250hp and 250ft-lbs of torque.
At 10psi on the dyno...it went 'poof'! So much for those claims.
The CF I installed later held to slightly more than 300, but as things get mileage on them, you will see wear, and wear means slippage.
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I ran either, could swap from NA to turbo in an hour.
Remove turbo stuff, put the header back on, swap the the other jet set, and go running.
"Wasn't this car Turbo at the AutoX yesterday?"
That was yesterday...
Then again those epoxy injector bungs and gutted 40 DCOE's don't sound like such a bad alternative now, right?
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Check TDC before making timing adjustments! It moves. This wouldn't be the first time someone messed up a properly set car by resetting the timing on a slipped pulley.
If it ran 15 miles, likely it's not the ECU. Too bad about the ECU bought. Check the links on the EFI Bible and the FSM for your year, the troubleshooting and explanations in those two areas really clear up the 'mystery box'...
I'd do a basic set of checks from the FSM troubleshooting section, including testing the advance on the distributor (both centrifugal and vacuum).
And I'd check if the injector connectors have 'the green grunge' on them, cleaning them usually helps with lean running.
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There were issues with the Blow Through System as well. People forget, the greatness of the internet is that you can go back to 'page 1' and read from the beginning.
The primary rule when putting on any aftermarket system is 'put it on a properly running car'... The caveat for Megasquirt has been from the beginning 'don't put this on an EFI car with problems and think it will solve it, it may not be with the EFI'
Any kind of endeavor like this has to be viewed as a 'whole car' approach. The electrical system on the 240 is marginal to begin with, an upgraded alternator and good battery are crucial to have ANY EFI system work. Guys putting MS into GM's are blessed with alternators which are HUGE in comparison and can handle stuff like this without much ado. But on the little Datsuns you have to look at what the factory did when they went to the second-generation EFI (ECCS)---not only did they swap in a gear reduction starter on the ZXT to keep from draining the battery voltage down while cranking the engine, as well as going to an internally regulated 85A alternator.
If you are running electric fans (10 or so amps each), rotary fuel pump (10-15 amps) you have already run out of the stock 35 A Hitachi alternator.
The #1 problem with MS after wiring issues, is bad power. Same thing for SDS users... It's not MS - Specific.
Get the power production up to par so that the alternator can handle the power requirements at idle or close to it, and THEN see what the problem starts to be. My bet is things get better with more juice to all the e-toys in the car. Especially after the sun goes down!
I have not run a MS on a car WITHOUT at LEAST the ZX internally-Regulated Alternator and a gear reduction starter (ZXT engine swap). I figure if Nissan Engineers said it was a good idea in a second generation EFI Car, then it probably is a good idea for mine as well!
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Not so odd, really. The original hot rods were inline sixes and fours of similar displacement. An L28 makes for a nice swap into an old 63 Falcon...
Saw a 3/5th scale hot rod with a toyota 2TG in it one time.
I've seen one with a VG 30 and sidedrafts on it (one cut in half!)
For the $$$, looks like a nice rig. I wouldn't mind driving that one around. The inline six looks right at home. "Like in the beginning."
I mean, before there was a Datsun 6, some of us lusted after the 'Ultimate Chevy II Nova', powered 'the right way'...I mean, anybody can put a big V8 into a car and make it quick!
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Chances are something other than the e-brake cable is causing this, the brakes can lock up for a number of reasons. Best to pull the drums and check them out well. The earlier cars had a 'sliding' wheel cylinder to help adjust the brakes with the e-brake. The later cars had fixed cylinders and seem prone to things freezing up and then dragging.
When the brakes are adjusted correctly (for the e-brake to engage fully in three clicks as the FSM says) they are much tighter than the typical American Car 'one turn when spun by hand' standard.
Remember that pressure differential between the brake circuits will also get that brake light to be on... And so will a switch not contacting properly.
Good Luck.
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Fuel Feed: 5/16" (8mm)
Fuel Return: 1/4" (6mm)
I think your fitting is return.
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General Rule of Thumb is air at 120F holds twice as much air that is 85F. We get this in industrial compressors all the time. Design is to have air entering the second stage at 120 so no condensate removal trap is required. Some genius Facilities Engineer decides he's going to out-think the OEM and 'increase intercooling efficiency' so he taps off his chilled water system to decrease interstage temperatures.
Forgets condensation will occur. Formerly air passing into the 2nd stage was 85-100% R/H at 120F, it's now 100% R/H at 60 degrees. Ooops, 'water got out'...
And then after a couple of hours running, they get a vibration shutdown. Or worse. Then the phone call comes about 'your pos compressor'...
The 'eureka moment' is golden: Did it ever occur to you why we didn't provide a condensate trap on the 2nd Stage, Sir? At 120F we don't get any condensate dropout. You used electrically generated chilled water to 'increase efficiency' and while you increased air density you also increased electrical load on the compressor motor...so what did you REALLY get for that 'increased airflow out of the machine'? We can get you more airflow, and yes, we will want a larger motor. NOTHING is free! Well, maybe if you had 48 degree ultra-clean well water you could have eliminated the chilled water electrical cost... but you don't so let's talk about this rotor wreck you have precipitated by flooding the second stage with condensate, my esitmate is around $22,000 for the high speed rotor assembly, plus labor.... What was that you said about 'saving money' again?
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When Mikuini was supplying their intake manifold and carburettors for the Datsun Z, they had an AN Fitting Stainless Braided Line Kit available. I think Pegasus Racing in Wisconsin sells the metric Banjo fittings for the carbs now... I know there are Weber Fuel Inlet to AN Fittings available out there...
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This looks like the one I built in the 70's from Finch's Book
That should get it rolling...
Read the link on the 3200cc Corvair Engine. Guys complain about having to measure stuff on a Datsun 'look where I came from!'LOL
I'm guessing your comment about the stroker is based on your decision to use cast pistons, and not some internet myth about some arbirtary limit of '7500 rpm harmonic'...
Oh gawd I hope it's not that...
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the rods are balanced at both ends. It will take a special scale to balance them correctly. Big ends are matched, small ends are matched, Total wieght is matched.
This is not something that can generally be done at home.
Mongo
I completely, totally, 1,000,000,000,000,000,000% disagree! This is EASILY done at home with some hardwood dowels, (or teflon) and a drug scale from Harbor Freight! Making a rod balancing jig is not a big deal. Friction is almost a non issue if you make one using some aluminum and a 1/4" rod to support the end not being weighed. I have been balancing at home since the late 70's and can usually get them identical. I would at a minimum get them all to weigh the same. What you have is a gross number, what you need are two more measurements, 'big end' and 'small end'... You can do this in a pinch with some fishing string to hold up the end you aren't weighing. using a jig makes for a faster process though.
With digital scales being available that weigh to 0.1 of a gram, there really isn't a reason not to get end-to-end weights to that tolerance at least. A 2gm variance rod-to-rod would not do for me. Not in a street car. Hell, not even in a Chevy!
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There was a Nissan Sealant Specification for that stuff. It's the same that's on the exterior hose fitting. "Permanent, yet removable"
Any Epoxy will need to be heat/oil resistant. I have used Aluminum Devcon for machinable structures in that area. As long as it's CLEAN and no oil is in the pores whatever you stick it to will stay stuck.
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A leaking anti-backfire valve... hmmmmmm that seems more like an open path from the air cleaner to the AIR system in the exhaust. I know if the check valve on the AIR manifold is leaking you EGR to your air cleaner....heavily
There is a reason I went digital...
Remember my longstanding commentary: "Anybody who says 'carbuerttors are easy' has never tried working with them in a precision environment!"
A couple of more months Ray, and you will start thinking of ways to convert those SU's into Megasquirt Powered TBI!
I know I did...
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with 013 warpage, you should check the TOP of the head as well. Likely it is warped as well, and getting to the point where tower bind is getting possible.
One way or the other it looks like you will be shimming the towers after a matching cut top and bottom...you could possibly be looking at a cam drop relative to crank centerline of 1mm (010+013+013=036" or roughly 1mm worst-case if the head was not decked top-and-bottom the first time)
I would get a head thickness reading and make the decision from there. I would keep a standard gasket (if the CR remains sociable) and shim the cam towers to get the right cam-to-crank centerline dimension restored. Or go with the Kameari Adjustable Chain Idler assembly ($500?+)
Tomei makes top-notch-stuff. I'd have no reservations using any of their componentry, but what you have may not require anything special other than the cam tower shims. That way you have 'standard parts' for a consumable for your racer and not something you will have to wait to order in when it breaks again...
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Haha People and there High, Very High Horse once someone finds out someone is new there ego jumps in. I guess people forget were all the same and discrimination needs to be ended over minor things. Im a 21 year old who needs help with his 3rd rebuild ever.
OMFG did he really just say that?
Dude, you are feeling entitled to information, and calling people names or insinuating they are on some 'high horse' because of your own ignorance is insulting to those of us who were at (apparently) your level when we were in our early teens. Just because you're 21 doesn't entitle you to special dispensation from the rules of the forum, or of the common courtesty of searching and reading. DISCRIMINATION IS NOT A BAD THING! You have been told it is, but that's a fools errand. You look at an apple with a worm in it, and DISCRIMINATE when you say "I'm not going to eat that worm, it may make me sick!" You are ASSUMING it is discrimination BECAUSE you are new to the forum. It is simply people INFORMING you of your transgressions against the site rules and ettiquette. Like I said, maybe you need to read the 'Why is Hybrid Z so...' before you start lashing out at people and calling them names for pointing out YOUR misconduct!
This issue is YOURS to deal with, not the boards. You want to ask questions here, follow the rules.
I have overstepped my commentary bounds already, and will stop now. But I can't believe that whining swarf was actually posted to this board. That alone makes this entire thread (to paraphrase Elaine Benis off "Seinfeld"):
"Shedworthy" -
No 280Z came with flat top pistons.
A better statement might be 'No US SPECIFICATION L28'...
There are PLENTY of JDM engines floating out there as replacements which not only have flat tops, but in some cases SLIGHT DOMES.
'Never Say Never'
I have been running a 1977 FLAT TOPPED PISTON N42 Head and N42 Block combination in my turbo car for years. Decades, in fact. Horsepower was similar to yetterben's levels but I didn't get greedy nor did I have a 'boost fetish' that compelled me to keep upping the boost beyond the capacity of the chassis to turn a corner and apply all the power it could produce...
As for 'all the questions'----I think the OP needs to read the sticky "Why is HybridZ so..." and thank his lucky stars he got any help at all here asking questions which obviously were not researched very well at all. "Getting Help" doesn't mean spoonfeeding people information. You can tell all the most complex things in the world to a 13 year old, but if he doesn't do some pre-reading to figure out what you're telling him it's all a waste of time, space and effort.
Why am I always the designated attack dog? I'm a harmless fuzzball. Really. I enjoy wiping noses and that kind of motherly crap.
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Got to go with Spork on this one, a Forged stock-specification L28 piston will be roughly the same cost as a 'custom' one where you specify different ring land configuration, different oil wiper, maybe different pin height or diameter.
Forged is Forged. Now, you order Small Block Chevy Pistons and you get 8 for what half a set of Datsun pistons cost.
Volume and turnover is your friend. Chances are just about every reputable forged piston manufacturer will have BLANKS 'on the shelf' suitable to be turned into an L28 Piston, so knowing that, the costs are minimal to do any real custom changes in basic setup.
Like Spokr said, if you specify a 3/4" thick uncut dome, or some special combustion chamber matching dome the price will likely be higher. Maybe not, some places charge $50 a set wholesale to do a 'special'.
But 'stock forged pistons' to me would mean forged, and not cast. And in that frame of reference, they will all be about the same cost.
Forged is Forged.
That being said, looking around for things like Vega pistons, or old Corvair TRW Forged Slugs can net you a forged piece at 'cast' prices (once upon a time...)
The engine doesn't care 'where' the piston was supposed to go into, and if you're boring match the block to whatcha got! Big thing is pin diameter, Pin Height, Ring Configuration, and Overall Diameter. Searching catalogs can net interesting discounts if you don't mind having a coupla few pistons left over as spares...
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"My point with the cam gear was that you could probably swap the gear alone and get similar results to going to the early cam with a lot less labor, not that changing cam timing doesn't make a big difference."
If that's what you meant to say, you should have said it in the beginning. The response is the same: the opening and closing times on the valves are different early to late and "a couple of degrees makes a big difference"...
The later cams are not the same as an early cam with overall advance / retard.
And even with a stock cam, gains are to be had by degreeing it to the engine it's installed into....stock or not.
The original question was 'should I shave the head 0.080" while it's off'....
"NO"
Coming from someone who did it above I believe the answer 'in retrospect' was it was a waste of time and money as well.
This is all from leaking / weeping coolant.
"ALUMA-SEAL"
Argue about an aftermarket cam all you want, you have obviously missed the absurdity in the original posts, missed it when I pointed it out, and now have steered the conversation so far off track that YES we are 'going round and round'.... For the THIRD time my original statement was "LEAVE IT ALONE IT'S NOT WORTH THE TIME AND EFFORT"
Is this clear to you yet, JM?
Flexicoker seems to have gotten something out of it. IMO I don't see the advantage of turning an otherwise strong-running bone-stock engine which runs on regular gas into a (for all intents and purposes) IDENTICALLY PERFORMING engine which REQUIRES permium fuel to run around.
You can get at least 147 RWHP on a stock low compression, stock EFI'd, F54/P79 on REGULAR GAS. If that engine isn't there yet, I'd suggest he spend time optimizing what he has FIRST before making the universal mistake of cutting, modifying, and altering a subpar/subperforming engine!
You can put a Holley Dominator on that 318, but it doesn't mean it's actually a 'performance upgrade'. How many people spend a couple grand on their engine, and then are disapointed that the ratty looking stocker that rolls onto the dyno after their car rolls off spins it up to an equivalent number, or even higher (been there, in the ratty car...)
All this 'incremental' stuff is just that: Incremental. It still is a system and some stuff just doesn't make sense to do first. Like milling the head for compression when you have sparkplug wires that are leaking to ground and misfiring at the top end. Not saying that is the case here.... but like I said in the beginning: What quantifiable result is he expecting to obtain from this modification? He's worried about the cost?
If you are worrying about the cost of a marginal or incremental modification: SKIP IT!
Like you said: CONTEXT. Read what the OP wrote, and consider he's worried about the $$$ expended. It's not YOUR car JM, it's his $$$ and his car. My advice would be 'pass on this one at this time and keep the car reliably running on regular fuel until you CAN afford it without reservation...'
Timing cover bolts, what grade?
in Nissan L6 Forum
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yep, 4's or blank ones (nissan grading number) will work.
They don't need 7's. Those go on critical fasteners like ball joint bolts, etc...