Tony D
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Posts posted by Tony D
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Hey, I got a lift to work on the car, too!
PishPosh garage floor thickness!
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You never know unless you call. He is an area master Hella distributor and has been for over 15 years as I recall.
He just advertises Autopal because most car people are cheap bottom feeding scum looking for the cheapest thing they can get regardless of quality. The Autopals are high quality, low cost (a.k.a. Hella Knockoffs) and work just fine for people who aren't stuck on brand names.
I know when I got a rock through my Autopal, I was not NEARLY as upset as when the same thing happened and I trashed a $100 Hella housing.
As a matter of fact, let me say this about H4Lights:
I JUST (as in Sunday Night) replaced the 80/100 H4 Bulbs in my 260Z. I was not using relays, and these bulbs have been in this car since JULY 1995. The low beams burned out first right, then left. I have been running them on highbeam with duct tape over the top for a while, and they show no indications of giving up the ghost but it's not particularly 'right' to run that way...
So my Autopals have been in service on this car since July 1995. The date code on the back of the lights is June 1995. I put the reflectors and no-name Autopal 80/100 H4 Capsules in the same time, and then promptly drove to the convention in ABQ. Used these lights driving across the country 2X (Kingston Ontario Convention, Trip through the SE and up the Eastern Seaboard one year.) So for the $35 I paid (COMPLETE AND DELIVERED) in 1995 I think I got pretty good service out of the lights. ESPECIALLY since I didn't have relays and they were obviously running at less than optimal voltage most of the time. I don't know if anybody else here has that kind of track record with their lights, or even Autopal in particular, but this is my experience with them.
I bought my first set of Hella H4 E-Code Lights for a Corvair in 1979, followed by SEV Marchal and Cibie's for my VW Bus that same year. Until Autopal came onto the scene the pricing on Hella was NOT competitive like it is now. Like I said, I don't know how long Autopal has been available, and maybe someone here has had them longer than me, but I've been using H4's now since 1979, and when the price of $35 a PAIR, LOADED AND DELIVERED was presented to me in 1995....I JUMPED AT IT! I could buy a pair of loaded reflectors for what one stolen Hella Reflector would cost at the time. To that point I was dyed in the wool Hella/Cibie user. But price lured me away, and the outstanding long term performance has kept me in that new camp. Having them side by side, and now knowing that after 15 (egads) years the reflectors (metal if you have to know) look just as good as the Hellas did after the same time period, I'm sold they are quality and don't really see the need to 'spend up' for something that will likely get a stone through it more often than not...
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Ill handling pig... Lighting up 265's and looping it doesn't look good at the AutoX.
This was not an issue at Willow Springs, though. Then power could be applied and the car actually pushed to the outside of the track, scary fast.
Actually though, I was equating it to the 917's. The driver would have to flatfoot it somewhere in the corner due to turbo lag, and in one's words: "Pray like hell you were pointed straight down Mulsanne when the boost hit."
This is the kind of reaction you will ALWAYS have by connecting WASTEGATE to anything (like TPS). That is CONVENTIONAL wisdom. NEXT GENERATION wisdom (or, if you prefer, mid 80's wisdom and not 1960's wisdom) is to control excess flow off the turbine by dumping overboard and keeping the Turbine at peak efficiency.
By regulating boost by a WASTEGATE on the turbine side, you change the speed, and therefore the response characteristics of the turbo (see the post from the guy in Trinidad in the turbo section). If you instead optimize the wastegate control to STABILIZE turbine speed at optimum for the flow point (peak efficiency) of the turbo, and then dump excess flow overboard via BOV modulation, you get a turbo which is ALWAYS at speed, and ALWAYS has 100% airflow available. The ONLY thing that will influence the response of the boost coming on is the closing or opening rate of the compressor bypass (BOV).
What you do with this control scenario is divorce the variables. By making the Turbo in essence a fixed speed operation, the curve only moves horizontally on the chart at any given pressure, as opposed to vertically AND horizontally when wastegate controlled.
Wastegate control changes TWO variables at the same time. When you try to control TWO variables at the same time the control scenario (read all these 'fuzzy logic' controllers and 'predictive' controllers out there) is unecessarily complex. If you set the wastegate to control to a set RPM for instance, you nail what your compressure surge point will be. It will be on a two axis chart. With wastegate control your surge line is a three-axis variable and control against that kind of curve will be far more difficult.
The theoretical TPS control will ALWAYS induce lag into the system because it changes flow by varying speed of the turbine. (And moving the surge line around.) The most efficient form of control would be to fix the speed within a reasonable limit and then dump flow. This is standard industry wide in process compressors. Quickly opening and closing inlet valves induce surges to otherwise stable processes when interruptions in flow occur. When the cecntrifugal compressor is operating with full flow through it, and the only variable is NATURAL surge as opposed to Suction Throttle Surge, the incidence of surging is dramatically reduced. This would be the excess flow venting proposal. Suction Surge (throttled surge) will not be an issue as the venting always accomodates the fixed surge line at that speed or mass flow area.
Now, if you are relating boost to tps, meaning changing boost LEVEL so that it's lower at lower throttle openings for easier modulation, it is more efficient to AGAIN vent excess pressure and lower it that way than by slowing down the turbine speed to produce less pressure. This makes for even MORE lag as you drop pressure from say 17 to 8 and then must walk the surge line back up to 17 as the throttle opens. Back to a three axis surge line chasing instead of 2 axis.
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Yep, it's all a matter of degrees...
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so you're saying he abandoned the property...
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Do people still change one and not the other?
Man, I thought that went out with the internet. Talk about peny pinching tripping over dollars to save dimes.
When one goes, the other is right behind it. Change both at the same time. Change both when you do a clutch job. This isn't hard.
If you don't see it on the ground, it's on the firewall.
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Or old-lady driven mopars...
A stock S30 should not take 7 miles to get to speed. Even mildly modified a standing mile should have you well near that speed, and in no case would you be gaining any speed after mile two. Put a G-Nose on it, you won't blow around...
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Not the Corvette
Or the 911 Turbo.
I was unaware this was a Corvette/911 Based Forum, or that the context had shifted from Z-Cars, of which "everything everywhere had a 5 speed available in 79"...
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I think you should look again, it sounds like you are hitting a piston and the valve travel is stopped. Or have two bent valves, that would cause a bind as well...
There is another tool for removing rocker arms that goes on the ball pivot end, but I've never seen one here in the USA.
You should probably specify #3 and #4 Exhaust valves as well (middle-most valves in the head), as that is how the FSM refers to them. That is "#6 & #7" from the front or rear of the engine, regardless.
When you say something like 'the first few valves, expecially #11' it confuses the hell out of someone who works on these, as you have just put all logical disassembly aside by starting from the 'rear first' and going forward.
First section in any engineering discussion is explanation of terms, so everyone knows what they are talking about, exactly...insofar as that goes, the FSM terminology should be used as it's the most common reference point people can go to and look something up.
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I like the idea of pinning the passenger door on but not the driver door. Probably wouldn't be that hard to fab up a hinge either.
Your talking about a different pin setup JM. This is a standard-looking Hinge from a Datsun made of aluminium, with a QR Pin acting as the actual hinge pin. It doesn't hold the door on like a conventional 'pin' setup (like on a hood) would, it's a standard part retaining functionality of the hinge, while allowing the door to be quickly removed with two pins (running where the standard Hinge Pin would normally go.)
As for diminishing returns, the car I saw them on had titanium gun drilled A-Arm Pivot Bolts, and the aluminum M6 bolts holding the fenders on were judged to be 'too heavy' so they too were replaced with appropriately sized Titanium Fasteners, with a ball mill applied to the head, and then gun drilled (how much do you really need to hold on those Carbon Fiber Fenders, anyway?)
And of course, the A-Arms were CrMoly fabrications as well.
I believe the rolling chassis sold for $75,000 Euros or thereabouts.
It's all a matter of degrees and how serious you are about loosing the weight.
I could drop 150+# out of my 240Z, I just need to go on a diet...
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so you're saying he abandoned the property...
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meh, toes schmoes. When my kid was born I walked over to the incubator and proudly, loudly stated "six on the right and webbed, just like dad!"
And turned away with a "proud father" look on my face while the midwife nurse ran back and did a digit count and then gave me a VERY dirty look.
My wife just rolled her eyes and said "you're bad!"
People get so hung up on polydactyly, like it's a bad thing...
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as referenced Bryan Blake (1fastz) claims to have done some sonic testing on the LD, but I don't know if the numbers are published anywhere. I know he has the equipment to do it at the shop, and it's how he found shifted cores and corrosion in the water jackets on the other blocks he was boring.
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There are controllers which are rpm sensitive, but this sidesteps the proper control of the turbo: keep it's wheel at proper tip speed (near maximum rpms) and bleed off excess flow during periods of low throttle opening to avoid minimum flow surge.
Arguably the latter is FAR more responsive to a sudden WOT demand (such as seeing the corner exit and having all things hooked up and ready to go straight down the road...) than anything that OPENS the wastegate to slow down the turbo to make it have less boost.
Keeping a turbo at a constant fixed speed and blowing boost overboard may sound strange to people, but this is what they did on Indy Cars for years to keep manifold pressure constant at 47 inches of mercury no matter what the throttle position. Instant N/A like response, but with MUCH MORE horsepower from the engine.
Using a wastegate is not the same solution, and goes about it totally differently.
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I thought I replied to this, but flexicoker, that is exactly the 'truck thermostat' the guys were using in the super high horsepower turbo application.
I swear I posted this 4 hours ago when you first posted this, things are happening in this computer, and I am not happy with it right now...
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I like glocks over all. It is light.
Used to play a lot of duck hunt back in the day.
I out shot everyone at the testing range with the recruits in the navy, they asked me how did I become so good, I told them, Duck hunt.
We were suppose to shoot center of mass so I figured I'd shoot the silhouette in the head, instructor said knock that off, so I shot it in the heart, he said show off and left me alone.
I did get a little nervous seeing where some rounds were going, some did not get any further then 10ft, yikes!
"Duck Hunt"I'd parrot the question "What's the intended use?"
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Why didn't you ever serve in the military? That's 5 points on the application, you know!
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What you have is a small claims suit. The amount of money is not worth getting a lawyer.
Your answer should have been 'so sue me', go in an file the counterclaim as suggested above. The court will have people to assist you in your filing the small claims suit (if he ever really DOES sue you...)---it is at this time you want to have them subponea the phone records.
Are you SURE he was the only one doing Pot? How the heck do you not know your stuff is not in your storage, and how apparently HIS stuff is in 'yours'?
This is not a superior court suit, it's a small claims suit. It's like a $40 filing fee. I don't think the judge with FIGURATIVELY laugh in his face, there is a good chance he will LITERALLY laugh in his face. Put your counterclaim in and make sure your priceless heirlooms are worth more than his claim. He defaulted and lost your stuff, if by some fluke the judge awards him anything in his claim, likely he will offset it against what he owes you for his inability to pay for the rent on his storage and evade you when asking him about keeping current(as supported by your text messages). It's the solomon cutting the baby in half. Lots of work for nothing.
Voicemails as well are subponeable. And regardless of how crappy they sound on your celphone, I can attest personally the CD you get from AT&T is crystal clear and got my friend $50,000 and a clear work record, as well as benefit continuation for 18 months (at a cost of $700 monthly!) Beware what you say on voicemails, especially as a representative of a company...they can come back to haunt you when you terminate someone 'for cause' and later get nailed because of a voicemail you left!
I would say that company learned a lesson, but they didn't, they won't, and they never wll 'get' it! Does anybody else reading this think:
"Dude, I want my bedset back, or I'm suing you, dude!"
I digress...
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Better Advice:
Make sure your auto insurance policy covers you in case something happens, and make sure the AAA Ultimate Towing Option is currently in force for whatever may happen.
Broke is broke. El Cheapo Wrench Set won't save you from anything that you should notice in the first 30 minutes of driving the car and fix then and there before heading cross coutnry. If it breaks, it's broken hard and you will need to be TOWED to the parts.
A 150 mile tow isn't a cheap prospect. Plan your route accordingly.
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Try an application for a hands-on GS Position. They want a detailed list of EVERY tool you have ever used or are competent to use. Think about that for a while. EVERY one...
And when you do it, you suddenly become 'overqualified'...
What do you expect, it's the gubbmint. Those who fill out the paperwork to the satisfaction of the reviewers will get the job. There are people who specialize in filling out the applications. If you really want the job, consult with one they have the federal application process down and will really aid your application process getting noticed in a favorable way.
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CRAP!
This WAS the car I saw in Arizona!
That car has a DATSUN OHC 6 with Webers and 'FERARRI' on the valve cover.
Holy christ, if this idiot can't tell the difference between an inline six and a V12!
I have seen this car in person. I have SEEN this car in person. I HAVE SEEN THIS CAR IN PERSON!
This is NOT a 'Ferrari' whatsoever, though it does have 'Ferrari' on the DATSUN/NISSAN OHC Valve Cover. (Anybody remember me mentioning this earlier----IT WAS ON THIS CAR!)
I couldn't tell the plate was CA or something else, but the FRAME....and then the NUMBER on the side. SAME CAR. Arizona Plate...
Pathetic. I am 100% sure the presenter is total assclown now. What a total moron.
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So let me get this straight:
He took the time to look at the TITLE to KNOW it was 'Registered as a Ferrari' and he took the time to SEE THE V12 (but not even a passing shot) and then lamely claims the exhaust note is the result of sound equipment being on half the exhaust?
The presenter is as complicit as the no-"Nickname for Richard" owner claiming Ferrari.
As this is a CA car, looking through the DMV is pretty straightforward to see how many other lies he's telling.
It would NOT be 'legally' registered in CA from a conglomeration of parts as he CONTENDS the chassis number of the DATSUN would predominate over the engine number. And if there really was a 'Ferarri Frame' then it would be a case of going to the CHP for an alternate VIN because you can't CHANGE VINS LEGALLY. You can't MAKE a car as an individual...not the way these guys are contending they can.
What a crock of smelly shite. That the guy can't man up and keeps making excuses nails an earlier comment: Wants to make a name for himself without working.
If he'd actually driven a 240Z with 300HP, it definately would NOT sound like the paltry stocker noise they have in the video.
What a pathetic cry for attention. Someone needs to beat him with a stick for his ignorance.
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Austin (240Hoke) says the Hellas from Rallylights are real... and I've watched their price drop over the years! (If I had known H4Lights sold things other than AutoPal earlier I might have just picked them up from him! Oh well..)
You don't go to his website? It's been under 'special' forever...
If you don't want the bulbs, the housings are $50 as I recall.
Like on his website homepage: "If you know what your lighting goals are we can help you get there. Bulbs, Harnesses, Relays, Switches and Housings. What do you need?"
Non-Rocket Scientists Click This Link for H4 Light's Homepage
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The stock linkage gives the pedal much less authority at the beginning of the travel and much more authority as the throttle is opened more.
I am quite fond of how it works.
When using the same articulation of the linkage, I notice no difference in response between the 50 and the 60.
You might be suffereing form Diabetic Nuropathy...If you can't tell the tip-in characteristics are different from a 50 and 60mm T/B using stock linkage. There is most definately a change. It's what all the butt-dyno experts attribute as 'horsepower increase' after installing the 60mm.
But this is straying from the OP's issue of on-boost modulation which is a VERY sensitive subject compared to ANY N/A car. A larger T/B will make the tip-in touchy and more power will exacerbate this. If you can feel it in a stocker with 140HP, it's worse on a turbo car with 300+!
Very Frustating Electrical Issue with lights
in Miscellaneous Tech
Posted
Add the plug-n-play relays for the headlamps and divorce the high load totally off your chassis wiring harness.
Likely what you have is a broken wire insulation that is grounding and shorting when in place, but not when hanging. Find that, then relay it to stop the high load through the switch!
My wife's Y2K Navara was toasting the left headlamp socket due to poor grounding by Nissan. No matter what I did I could not get that thing to work and it kept killing lamps.
So I took the one good right socket and used it to trigger the relays, putting a resistor on the left plug permanently to keep the 'headlamp check option' from saying one headlamp was out. Worked like a charm.