Tony D
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Posts posted by Tony D
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What octane gas is everybody using?
When was the last calibration of the torque wrench used?
Was there a retorque after initial start?
What is the surface finish of the head and block (too smooth machining, and you can slip easier than properly finished pieces...)
Are the MSQ files IDENTICAL including all REQ FUEL / Injector Sizing / Fuel Pressure? If not/why not?
What fuel pump is being used? Could it be internally bypassing hurting flow or pressure?
"Break In Oil" is simply a non-detergent so any micro bits of metal fall out of suspension in the pan and do not get suspended in the oil stream by the detergent package. It is identical to normal detergent motor oil, other than that. And now possibly they are putting in high-zinc additives since regular oil no longer contains them.
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Er, I realize I may be just a a hick from Oregon, but I;n ;your wide travels you have apparently never been to Medford. If you had, you would realize that this is the land that timne forgot. Sob for your information and enlightenment, I didn't lowball anything, I went with what waqs availible. We don't all live in LA.
Medford, Salem, PDX, and yes even Medford when forced to drive to Seattle for a job a couple of times stayed in the 'new' Holiday Inn Express matter of fact---everybody has an excuse not to call their local dealer and get the address where to buy their service manuals.
If I could get 'order from address' for VW service manuals from Robert Bently Publishing in RALPH MICHIGAN in 1979 by making a person-to-person long distance phone call to the nearest local VW Dealer in MARQUETTE MICHIGAN, I'm sure the bustling metropolis of MEDFORD OREGON area might have a local DOMESTIC-PRODUCTION PRODUCTS Dealer to consult on where to find a factory service manual for a Cobalt in 2010. (That means ANYTHING from Dodge, Chevy, Ford, BTW...)
Poor excuse. Medford is a f-ing Gotham in comparison to Ralph...or my other favorite place: Ewen Michigan (We called it the 'Twin Locations' in tribute to Minneapolis-St. Paul...you know "The Big City"...) Fairly far apart (especially in 24" of new snow), with Ewen being closer to Bruce, but since the VW guy from Florida kept his stockpile of cars at Bruce Crossing it was a regular pilgrimage so we could share the 'official' manuals I had in exchange for the parts he had. And once a year I would pick him up for the Big Fur Rendevous/Sale over in Sagola (Amasa, actually...)THAT was a long day... but I digress. You were saying about Rural Medford again? 300" of snow annually, months below zero at a time during the winter and the only imported guy around for....er.....miles? Boo Hoo life is hard cry me a river...sorry if I don't feel your 'pain' it looks self-inflicted!
In your travels, I doubt you've been to Ralph. Or Ewen. Or Julius Belaze's Fox Den at Bruce Crossing. Perhaps you were in Hulbert? I have, lived there, did that. I could get manuals over the phone and through the mail. If you can't today, it's purely sloth on your part, or cheapskated-ness.
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Yet another piece to be harvested from an LD28: the oil pump drive gear. No cutting required, just stub-shafted from the factory as in BRAAP's example.
And you don't trash a perfectly good distributor drive quill, either!
There is either a Naichi, or NTN ball bearing which will fit in the distributor recess, and over the end of the quill shaft. A Welsh Plug in the hole them gives it a finished look. Someone will have to measure the two diameters, but as I recall it was a standard off the shelf part when we put it in a car with Electromotive TEC2 back in 92 or 93... been a while, sorry I can't remember the number offhand.
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Use of moly lube on stock head bolts will likely result in overtorquing of the OEM parts.
The specification calls in the FSM for motor oil, and moly will result in significantly lower turning friction. On engineered fasteners, this can actually lead to fastener failure as the excess torque puts the fastener into plastic deformation, instead of elastic.
There really isn't a 'one product fits all' application assembly lube. People use them as such, but it's not right.
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So next comes the index. I find the power steering section, and when I get to the page it says, that the electric power steering is a complicated system, and "if it has any problems, take it to your local dealer."...I don't mind spending the money, but if the manual doesn't have information that is useful I think its a ripoff.
Now that I feel better, I'm going to write to Chilton and tell them what a bunch of a holes I think they are
So let me get this straight... You 'don't mind spending the money' so you go to an aftermarket pirate outfit to get information on complex vehicle safety systems and pay $25 for it, instead of going to the book the dealers use (who have to assume the liability for their repairs because they are a manufacturer's representative) and which costs $400+ in some cases.
And then complain that it doesn't contain the same information?
Have you ever heard of the concept of 'You get what you pay for?'
I mean really---do you think from Chilton's standpoint they want to assume the liability for translating a manufacturer's service text written for specialists and professionals into dumbed-down speak for home hobby people who need instruction on how to change brake pads and check the oil?
No doubt the Chiltons manuals suck. Haynes is slightly better, but neither is a substitute for a proper Factory Service Manual on the vehicle you are working. The GM Manuals for a 94 Camaro is something like 3 Volumes that are close to 2 1/2 to 3" thick. The section on fuel injection covers things in such minute detail and is written at a low reading level even the most basic guy could understand the complexities of short and long-term fuel trim. NONE of this is covered in detail in ANY of the aftermarket manuals. Why? the vast majority of the people wanting those manuals aren't looking for that kind of depth of detail. They are changing brake pads, and oil, and maybe replacing a bulb or transmission as an assembly. Not breaking the individual components down further than that...
You should have known better. You should have never expected such liability-risky information to be enclosed in a current edition manual in the USA. Maybe in the 60's those manuals covered everything because it was basic mechanical information you needed to be competent with to affect repairs. Now, the liability is FAR to great for a publisher of an aftermarket manual to give directions on complex safety systems and etc.
What was in there about the ABS system?
See a pattern?
For shame trying to spend $25 and get the knowledge you know will not be there! You get what you pay for, and I would never expect a $25 3/4" thick paperback to compare to the FSM in any way, shape or form...
The Manual for my wife's Y2K Frontier was $297 either in dead-tree or CD Rom. For that money, I'd almost demand dead trees... but CD was easier to carry in the car. You want detailed information, you go to the source, not Grandpa Jones and his local printing press...
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I would post 'go to jail' tickets with the Turbo going down the onramp from Van Buren onto the 215 South (before all the Yuppies moved to Murietta and clogged it interminably)...
Entrance was easily done at 100+ down the ramp. And 6300 in fourth was mere seconds away from that if I had a clear road. Now, you want to put it in fifth and push it past, say, 5800 you are in for a long slow road. Better have a good fuel pump and intercooler!
Anybody got Google Earth?
33* 48.957'N
117* 14.377'W
What on earth could that be from?
Who put that big "X" there in the middle of the road with paint so it's visible from the Electric Eye?When I visited home, I ran the old run.
Start 44 17 897N, 83 31 374W, Heading 134.81
End 44 21 321N, 83 36 196W.
Elevation Change:54m
It was good for top speed jetting checking. It was where my 74 Impala Police Special 'don't do this during the week again' speech got read to me...I can almost pick out the exact spot to this day where the MSP stopped me for 'The Talk'...
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Hey, I'm only outside the city a little bit (Riverside/Woodcrest).
You can have chickens in most municipal locations in SoCal you know...
Chickens are a good profit center as well!
As someone once told me:
"A Chicken is the Perfect Animal; what other animal can you...."
Ah, waitaminit, maybe this isn't the place for that particular quotable quote... In his defense the guy who said it was from Jersey...
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Story told here before:
Bought car for $3500, salvage title one year old at the time (theft chop shop recovery).
Drove for 150K miles, hit on 60 FWY and drove it home.
Totaled by Insurance, got paid $3700, minus $500 scrap value on the car and retained it.
Sold car for $600 and a baby goat.
Bought male goat for $175 to hook up with the baby when mature and start making free lawn and weed abatement for my yard.
Pair mated and had triplets on first mating.
Sold each of the goat offspring for $150 at easter (reaped $450!)
Sold the proven mating pair with propensity toward multiple births for $450.
I think we made out on our car as well!
My suggestion: Buy a goat with the money, just keep them away from the Z's! They like to climb...
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Yep, if you think about it...that single screw was enough to perform that function before you doubled it.
With two, you could half the velocity across the orifice and cut down on the noise.
Also, remember just because you have an IAC does NOT mean you don't require an idle air bypass. The IAC is NOT for idling the car! It's as you suggested: Idling it UP when an accessory comes on---base idle speed is almost always set with some sort of fixed bypass to get a base 'limp home' mode should a valve fail. The original AAR in the turbos eventually incorporated a small screw to block the pintile open so if the Diaphragm failed, the car would still idle at around 6-700 rpms. It was not dependent on a control device to function in order to start and idle the car.
IAC is what you use for fast idle warmup, A/C clutch engagement, even anti-stall programming and Hydrocarbon Reduction on drop-throttle--really it's a misnomer to call it an idle air controller. It's more of a "Idle Load Compensation Valve"
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The second sticky on this site is in camofluage... It's says "A quick FI and ignition 280zxt to S30 turbo swap guide".
I realize it's pretty trickily worded with all those inside chassis number designations and what may seem superfluous 'FI and ignition' information and it's not directly labeled 'Swap Guide'... But there IS a reason people should read through the stickies from time to time. Even old-timers. Never know what you will find behind titles that mislead you!
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Well, I do have several containers...
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Thats a good point. I have always used 5/16" or 1/4" vents with no problems on fuel tanks I have made. It makes me wonder what the idea behind the massive factory vent is. At one point there was a guy, getting paid, that designed the original system. I would like to think he knew what he was doing or that someone that did was checking his work. Maybe there were 10,000 extra hoses that nissan could source for half the price and some poor engineer was told to use them haha!
"Captive Volume based on vapor pressure." I don't even want to get into safety factors, flows, and crap like that, but there is a rationale for the larger sizes when venting volative fluids. But like most stuff Nissan Did, it was 3X overdone. Engine Blocks that routinely last 300K when they can run 100K and at the time be overhauled (and people would accept it as normal, especially the British...)
Take a look today at vapor transfer hose and see what the maximum size you have!
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I can't believe someone said 'there is no stock piston that will do that'...
Since when was it a criteria to use stock pistons?
And as for the ringstack argument, I pretty much expected that. Think within the box and you will achieve results like everybody else.
Something to think about:
Do you really want to run stock thickness rings in an engine that will effectively spin to over 10,500 rpms?
And who says the oil control ring needs to be where it is in the stock configuration.
Think within the box, achieve the within the box results.
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Easiest thing to do with those vent hoses is get a 15mm to 10mm Nylon Adapter Fitting, install it at the tank, and then route all the hoses in cheap, readily available and flexible 3/8" fuel line. I have used 1/4" as well. I can pressurize my tank to 5+Psig without a single whiff of leakage.
The 510's used nylon joiners and couplers from the OEM, they last forever.
This way, you can salvage straight portions (about 2" long) to stick on the tank, and put the adapter right there. Done deal. Sealing the penetrations where the 15mm used to come through the floor was done with some shrink tubine (the kind with glue on it) and some burrer stoppers I had around that were bored to 3/8" hose O.D., razor split, and pushed into the larger holes. Haven't had a problem since.
This is VAPOR HOSE. The flows you have are miniscule through it. 10mm will work fine. Some JDM cars only had one vent, and that was a 1/4" dump off the filler neck. We don't need the big fancy braided hoses. Smaller stuff retains 100% functionality.
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Your own qualifications say you weren't in the market for his product. He doesn't sell "properly aimed and properly designed housings with cut offs and what not" for an HID 'conversion', he sells H4 Lights and Reflectors for H4 Lights.
Like I said, people hear what they want to hear.
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It can only be classified as a "Homer Moment" if it was
1) Unintended
2) Caused Grief due to the Damage Inflicted
I could have cared less, I needed to pull fenceposts, I used the tools at hand (see Avtar)...
I will be the old guy in the WalMart parking lot with the dented GT-R in coming years. It's a car, use it!
If I'm going to Deify something, I think a pint of Guinness would suffice.
Or perhaps a vole...
I mean, come on...I'm not in a Cargo Cult indoctrination forum here, am I? "It floated ashore, and gave us transport, Sim ba Mashuka!" I know it's not real Koopa-Kai, but I never figured out how headhunters learned such good pidgin english or why Gilligan didn't shoot back 'Why are you asking me in english and not Koopa-Kaiian?' I mean, Gilligan was a gawd. Dobie Gillis. That I can see. Or a vole...
But a car? C'mon!
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Interesting characterization of what undoubtedly was agitated ramblings of an aged member of the populace... I don't know if I'd call him a 'ranter' though he does know his lights.
I guess people will hear what they want, and both parties have the ability to not do business if one party doesn't see a mutual benefit.
From my reviewing of people dealing with him, you're the exception to the rule of recommendation. To each his own I guess. I never had a problem, and like I said, the 'cheapies' I bought lasted 15 years. Worked for me.
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"Top Line / Bottom Line" Any sizes? Don't have a tank in front of me to know which end is up. I think a line which is plugged is your first concern. Ram some brazing rod down the line, or maybe a coathanger to see if something is in the bend in the line inside the tank.
Get the tank working, after that's done...well...you realize these came with a perfectly good mechanical pump. Since you don't say what carbs you have (maybe the original flat-tops are some of the nebulous 'missing stuff' you refer to...) a mechanical pump may work perfectly fine for you. Since you said 'want to do it on a budget' I'm betting the mechanical pump will work juuuuuust fine.
Another advantage of a mechanical pump: They don't burn out when run dry!
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well i have the complete ignition setup from the 81. Trying to find info to hook it up via ms, but not finding anything just 82-83.
*edit* Finding some stuff for 81 but not much. Still have not found wiring for the sensor.
This is total B.S.
My cardomain page details modifications for the 81CAS so you can get well over max advance needed for any application.
The Moby Sticky contains my comments on CAS interchangability, as likely will any search on CAS. Search the Tool Shed, likely it's been asked enough that several repeats have been flushed...
The CAS is the CAS, the waveform is IDENTICAL. They are INTERCHANGABLE. The wires are THE SAME.
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The objective isn't a high rpm engine anyway; it's low rpm torque and detonation resistance not available with an L28ET (the other good pwr/$ solution). I've never heard my gas LD28/N42 ping but my F54 [flat-tops]/N42 pings like crazy, requiring timing retard.
DAW
Reference the original post, this was a R/S ratio for RPMS originally with a capacity of around 2.5L using an L28.
That formula is more effectively accomplished with the L28/L20A destroke. (which also happens to have the same detonation resistance as the dwell and R/S is similar if not identical.)
DAW, I AGREE, 'destroking' the LD block is ludicrous when L20A cranks are still plentiful. Some would say finding an L20A would be EASIER than finding the LD28 block to begin with!!!
But improved R/S is available... There are pistons out there that will let you run L20B rods (check the length) in the conventional L28 Block. I know, I have a set...
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There is no possible way to get out to 89mm (or even 87mm comfortably). There just isn't enough wall to work with. I suppose you could sleeve it but the cost would be crazy for the results gained.
Then you shouldn't say it can't be done.
Your logic for not sleeving an LD Block for displacement INCREASE is the EXACT same logic I was arguing above for using a STANDARD L-Block with an L20A crank on a displacement DECREASE for 'rod/stroke maximization'....
So now I can play a particularly pernicious devil's advocate and say the logic works for BOTH arguments: if you disalow sleeves for displacement increase, then using an LD Block to convert to gas for a set 2.5 or 2.6 displacement has no advantages over simply using a standard L28 Block as you get the same R/S ratio with the L20A crank!
This took a long time coming, but I'm glad you guys finally saw my point: For R/S Ratio, the cheapest way is to use the L28 / L20A combination---you get the R/S Ratio advantages and absolutely no conversion headaches: drop in and spin!
NOW, if you are willing to commit $$$$$$$ to a project, then a WET LINERED LD28 for CAPACITY INCREASE is the route to go.
The argument for a 'destroked' LD28 was economically foolish, you get the same results much cheaper using standard parts with the L28/L20A combination.
The logical way to go with the LD is displacement INCREASE not DECREASE!
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That elbow on the hose is a good idea, it lets people position the hose WHEREVER and negates the need to use an O-Ringed positionable elbow in the valve cover itself.
While the cost of a hose-elbow is higher than a straight fitting, I'm sure the Earl's fitting is cheaper (and doesn't have a weld in it) that the other option.
Well thought out solution. I really got to get the Milacron hooked up at the house. Bridgeport too... One day I will have time, at least that's what I keep telling myself!
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No, what I'm suggesting is removing the plate and screw totally and letting the plates close completely.
Then using a separate valve to control idle air from a separate source(the air cleaner, or something...)
The screw on the linkage in combination with the rear bypass screw to synchronise off-idle synch. The throttles should be totally closed at idle, cracking them defeats the purpose of running EFI anyway.
You will also find that if you have idle air bypass not related to the throttle bodies (like going into the balance log) you won't have the gunk buildup on the throttle plates nearly as much as if you crack them to make it idle. The stock TB idles with a bypass screw and plate totally closed. This should be no different.
Having a single screw to adjust for idle speed (and only one bypass route) will make it easier to add the IAC Derek loves... Me? I got a 1/4 hose and needle valve, and I can get it up to 2200 rpms through that small line. This doesn't need to be a big line like stock, but it can be if you want it to be.
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Someone else said that in the beginning as well...
Timing needs to move according to what is going on within the engine.
Who put that big "X" there in the middle of the road with paint so it's visible from the Electric Eye?
The start to something awesome #2
in S30 Series - 240z, 260z, 280z
Posted
Anybody's table is a STARTING POINT ONLY.
Each bin must be checked and compared.
There is a site on TurboMopars that describes using a VW Knock Sensor bolted to the block, and routed to a simple amplifier circuit and headphones to detect detonation. Apparently the characteristics of the VW sensor make it act like a Peizoelectric Microphone and you can actually hear it over a regular speaker because of the way it works. The guys there using it love it, they are saying it works WAY better than the garden-hose stethescope--hearing detonation well before where they thought 'they were O.K.'...
Remember it's not the detonation you hear that gets you. Its the stuff you never hear that breaks things! You just stay on it, oblivious.
I get the impression Ben is spending a lot of time at WOT...