Tony D
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Posts posted by Tony D
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"No other logical reason to see it under the skirt up buy the pin."
Foaming oil lets the lightweight bearing float, where it's hit by the spinning crankshaft and flung up high where it eventually lodges...
My vote was going to turbo bearing as well, then the nice photos were posted and cemented the source. Now you know how it got up there.
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For one I don't KNOW that the rods are cast, I just thought I read that they were cast, hence the If I Recall Correctly. Also IIRC, Nissan forged the rods because it was more expensive at the time to cast for some reason. I could be way off base, but that's how it goes when I think I think I read something somewhere
Please stop that...
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I LOVE the 'turdification' of the California Spyder in that GTO link! Talk about having your head in the right place! That is PRICELESS! "He pissed off everyone at the Ferrari Owners Meeting, except a few people with the same irreverant thinking."
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Here's my take: It looks good. Really good. I understand that if you can't afford a Ferrari 250GTO, you build a replica or acquire one. There is no hatred on hybrids, replicas, or kit cars. What we are angry about is the fact that he lies about it, and blatantly keeps pointing out that it's a Ferrari, when it isn't one
That's the simple root of it! If he called a spade a spade and didn't REFER to it as a FERARRI, that would be one thing. I know plenty of guys with GTO replicas, really really nice ones and none of them have the little-**** syndrome where they start trying to actually pass it off AS a Ferarri, other than a replica based on a Datsun.
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Just try to get the L20ET turbo, same internals as the L28ET, but with a .48 A/R housing, meaning full boost is available at well under 1700 rpms on a diesel.
Yes, I have a penchant for JDM stuff that wasn't available here. But that appears to be the correct A/R for the LD28 (at least I'm betting on it, I got three of them in a milk crate two months ago for my LD28T conversion of a 77 280Z Coupe in my back yard!)
My quandary is wether to keep that tasty diesel four speed autobox on there for my daily commuter duties, or go with the spare ZX Box I have laying around... Decisions, decisions...
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Damn, YouTube is amazing!
This actually reminds me of my old Suzuki SuperTurbo... I was a bad youth, even with a 550cc microcar (yes, at that time I fit in one!)
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I would say from over 40K miles of driving, a 350HP S30 is streetable. I have added comments in the 'modulate' thread. For drifting an eccentric cam on the TB would make quick work of the modulation required. I would look at the link for the guy from Trinidad and his fuzzy logic stepper-motor controled BOV. The problem I have seen with most turbos in the USA is the BOV's are set up atrociously. Never right. You should not hear them hard. They should bleed. If you can keep the pressure in the intake, and bleed off the excess to keep the turbo in stable flow area (think launch control or flat-shift) your modulation is much easier as you never really go negative pressure in the intake tract between the turbo and T/B. If you have a deecent BOV setup, modulation becomes MUCH easier.
You can not have a ham-hock for a throttle foot. I literally use my big toe in some cases. A light flywheel makes it worse.
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My wife refused to drive my Turbo "Shark Car" because it had 'a gas pedal that was an on-off switch'...
I tend to believe it was more because of a 9# flywheel and 350+ ft-lbs of torque that hooked up pretty well through 265's out back (replace every 8K miles, every second set of rears, replace fronts as well...)
I didn't think it was a hair trigger, but to be honest a BIG wing on the back made the car stick far better. At Autocrosses it was a total joke unless driven really brutally (jerk, toss, mash, BOOST!) Then again, my boost threshold for 17# was 1700 rpms.
And I had 6 45mm throttle bodies opening simultaneously. What was the problem here, a single 60mm vs single 50mm on a plenum?
Like I said, this CAN be tamed by geometry or cam selection. I did it on my car, that's when I went from 15# to 9# on the flywheel!
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"With L28's being able to rev to 9000+, and a destroked 2.5L (L20A Crank) being even more revable, along with a larger bore for better valve unshrouding and high rpm breathing...."
L20A not so easy to get in the states...I personally have never stumbled across one as easily as a L24 crank. Once again, R/S ratio...no answers on that front....incomplete theoretical arguments are what I am trying to have answered...
The L20A's are out there, and in many cases are freeeee or nearly giveaway as nobody wants them. I paid $100 for the last one I paid for (complete), I have gotten them in baskets for free. The last one I got off e-bay cost more to ship as parts than I paid for it (0.99 cent auction start!) Of course L24's were available here in the USA, so logically they are 'easier' to find. If "Easy" was criteria to the project, then we wouldn't be discussing an LD28 Block Conversion with no practical real-world advantages over existing L28 combinations. I can lay you money that CONVERTING an LD28 to gasoline operation for the same R/S ratio of an LD28/L24 Crank will be FAR more expensive than L28/L20A Crank Combination. The L28/L20A is an existing, proven concept with nothing special to fab, make, convert, etc... Not so for the LD conversion. One is a simple component swap, one takes time, money, and luck. Luck is not required in an L20A L28 crank swap...
Some info on what I was reading when I first posed the questions.
http://forums.nasioc...ad.php?t=424283
http://www.stahlhead...od%20Length.htm
Both of these links talk of theoretical advantages, and some real world advantages. But as you delve into it further 'the point of diminishing returns' comes in. Are the theoretical advantages worth the additional costs involved? Why did Nissan change deck height on the four cylinders---was it for a longer rod? No it was to accomodate more displacement from a longer stroke. Cam selection and combustion chamber design will play a FAR larger role in detonation suppression and cylinder filling than what you will accomplish with the large deck height LD Block and longer rod.
Another question is, if you do the math, using the L20A crank in the L28 block gives you almost the same results as using the L24 crank in the LD28 block without spending a fortune or lots of time finding the crank.
Stop it! There is no "FORTUNE" spent finding an L20A crank. That's total B.S. And even if it weren't, then the L24 crank STILL gives the same advantages and they ARE arguably dirt cheap and plentiful. What you haven't answered yet was what REAL WORLD payback will you get from this rod combination. I know for a FACT that in an L20A short block, you can fit L20B connecting rods. Do the math on THAT! What R/S ratio do you get? Now if you can ringstack a 'short' conventional L Block to fit an L20B rod in there, what is the argument for an even longer (and flexible) rod? I know you might have easy access to these cranks as you are a very well traveled man and have many personal connections to Nissan and L6 gurus from your stories, but from what the OP has available to him and from what we mostly have available here in the states, he might be able to pull off a motor that mimics your 9+k shifting Bonneville car at a cheaper price. Big news here, the sourcing of the L20A for that car was done TOTALLY within the USA and was done really cheaply. Anybody in SoCal is able to reproduce this motor with minor effort at searching. The block was from a guy who advertised a Fairlady Z on e-bay and responded to an e-mail asking him what he had done with the 'original engine'---there are PLENTY of guys with Fairlady Z's out there continually asking about changing the engine from the L20A they have...you find one, you buy one. This has nothing to do with my being well travelled or having connections. If you will recall Nissan Corporate moved to Nashville years ago. There's nothing here from corporate any more! (If I understood it correctly you built an L20 for class restrictions, might be wrong) Thus my question as to why it isn't more popular.... How many Z's race at Bonneville? Most of them have (gasp) V-8's. How many Z's at Bonneville have taken ALL the available records in their respective displacement class (17 at last count in F/Engine Class)? One. When you have all the records at 3.0 Liter Class Break, you have a choice: Go up to 4.5L class (no engine made legal for the car) or go down to 2.0L class (existing production engine legal for the class). This isn't rocket science, what does that have to do with anything, it's a matter of logic and available parts. There are no engine combinations LEGAL to put into a 1976 280Z 2+2 which will allow us to rin in 4.5L Engine Class. So we went down in capacity. Most of the guys are struggling to make their FIRST record, they haven't come to the point of 'we broke them all, now what do we do with this thing?' I mean, we COULD have put a stroker crank in and gotten closer to 3.0 and MAYBE picked up some speed, but we're breaking our own records....what fun is that when all those juicy fat 2.0 liter records exist? Does that answer the question sufficiently? I still fail to see what that has to do with the subject at hand...
As for the comment about larger bore, this hasn't been proven, I've read the thread about the 4.0L L6 and there doesn't seem to be a conclusion. WHAT hasn't been proven? That a larger bore unshrouds the valve better? This is basic engine building. This is not subject to debate, it IS proven. You need to clarify what you're saying there, as if your contention that moving the block away from the edge of the valve does NOT aid in unshrouding the valve, you need to do some serious research. I can tell you conclusively from flow bench data that the L28 Bore flows GOBS more air down the cylinder with the EXACT SAME CAM, HEAD, AND VALVES than the L20A bore. Again, this is not rocket science, nor hard to check with basic metrology and some plexiglass cylinders...That statement about sonic testing many blocks with negative results, but same could be said about regular gasser blocks. I am thinking knowlegably, maybe I should pose this question in a thread about internal combustion engine thermodynamic efficiency and how the compression cycle is effected by slower piston speeds (longer rods, shorter stroke).
Another point of reference....I am by NO means comparing the flow numbers between L series heads and RB heads. Then Don't!
I am also not arguing the fact that the L28 is bigger, has more stroke so creates more torque motto, this is all a learning expierence, nothing is the best and nothing should be put down ( if this were the case you wouldn't be posting on hybridz now would you ) Understand that asking 'what's the point' is not 'putting something down'---if you want to do something, at least be intellectually honest with yourself to answer the hard questions. Questions like 'what is the practical payback?' You have totally missed my point on the L28 as the basis for the build for a high revving DEstroked long-rod motor. The BORE is larger, and this helps with valve unshrouding. You say it doesn't and that's just plain wrong. If you were talking about making a gas motor out of an LD28 using the LD28 CRANK and not just the block we could discuss torque and it's advantages (and it would still come down to valve unshrouding with a smaller bore of the LD compared to the L28. You were discussing DE STROKED motors, and my contention was there is a point of diminishing returns and what is the point of using an LD when for all practical purposes the larger bore of the L28 will be far more important in breathing at higher rpms than a smaller bore of the LD. As part of my learning experience, please explain why this wouldn't be a good candidate, even as a turbo motor. I'd suggest the basics get covered before you move to turbo.
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I could drift a long bed 4 door dually truck if I wanted to.
Don't ask my son about that...
Most of those have 454 Rat Motors in them, and once those tires are burning the only way to stop it is lift the throttle. Mine will bang the gears into high gear and just sit there boiling, all you got to do is have some forward momentum and get them slipping and Rat Torque will take care of the rest.
Yes, I have a Longbed, Chevy 3+3 (four door crew cab, bench seats) It will not leave a stop without burning the tires if I take the 2'X6' sheet of 1/2" thick diamond plate and cross bed tool box out of the bed! Drifting a Dually is not hard at all.
Now a 1984 550cc Suzuki Alto....THAT is a 'drift challenge'!
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you can't drift in a s30.
Wow, and all those CarBoy magazines from the 80's I got with S30's Drifting Togue are just figments of my imagination.
Untalented people can't drift an S30. Untalented people can't drift an FWD car, either.
If you can drive, you can drift anything.
As for 2+2 and heaviness, my 76 weighed in at 2695# at SanAntonio Dragway, and that coincided nicely with my consistent 15.50 1/4 mile times (and that was with my then 255# frame in the car, wet. It is of course a Fairlady Z 2/2, but anything you have on that car you can do to a 280Z and get nearly an identical weight out of it. Power for that kind of weight is relatively easy to achieve to a 10:1 P/W Ratio with even a non-intercooled low-boost turbo. Thing is this would be a non-forged internals setup so your RPMS would be limited to below 7000. Gear accordingly and for the occasional drift day you should be fine. With a turbo motor, it IS easier to make 10 or 20 more HP than it will be to take out 100 or 200# from the car. There is low hanging fruit that will net you that much, and get you close to the Fairlady Z 2/2 wieghts, but after that 'weighing less' will cost a LOT more than 'making more turbo power'... Put on some stock sized tires on stock sized rims and you will be amazed how easily you can power-throttle steer an S30 with over 250HP at the rear wheels...
For that matter, put a 275HP Turbo VW motor in the back of a 2315# VW Microbus and you would be amazed what you can do on a set of stock 5.60-15 Bias Ply Tires....
We used Bad Dog Frame Rails for 'rust repair' on our Bonneville car (1976 280Z 2+2). There are some extensions to make because the floor is longer (as noted) but the sections that are not covered by the front and rear frame parts Bad Dog Sells are simple box structures easily made at any commercial HVAC shop for pennies. They can make a "Hat Stringer" for duct reinforcement out of 12 or 14 gauge electroplated or flashed steel usually up to 12' long for a reasonable price, and you will be amazed where you find it will fit nicely for stiffening up a floorboard or other project.
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We have already sent one of our most numerous exports to populate Denver and it's environs.
And I will go no further down the landscaper's truck road with my comment about what we have already exported (apparently California's most prolific export....though I understand TX and AZ are close behind or overtaking us in this regard...)
Doubtful they ride OTD's though, homes!
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well phil maybe you got to talk to mystic in Trinidad about his new controller, that should take care of your flutter.
Seems my bud isn't forthcoming about his BOV/WG controller setup, despite rampant cubicle ravishing done while back in PA two weeks ago....so maybe that's another option as well.
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I must have offended the guy in some fashion...as I am unable to post any more comments to that viedo.
Perhaps someone else can 'cut and paste' my above reply to his little B.S. Video.
He wants to hear something screaming, I'll give him something screaming. I'll give him what that car COULD have sounded like. As it sits it's not a 'Well weathered leather, hot metal and oil, the scented country air' moment...
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EVERY Ferarri owner I can think of will JUMP to open the hood of the car when asked, if for no other reason to hear the mournful souls ogling his conveyance... Even if it was just the engine, they would pop the hood to SHOW YOU THE FERRARI. Having driven and listened to those cars since I was a child, this car sure as hell sounds like my 1973 240Z with Triple Webers...nothing more. It is not a screaching banshee Ferrari, nor is it a Jag V12, either.
This guy is so full of B.S. about the car he has it's not funny. I guess this was his '15 minutes of fame'... You want to hear something inspirational (far more so than the engine in that car---a REAL small bore screamer, go here:
http://www.youtube.com/user/DemonoidCFH#p/a/u/2/b9yGNnONPB0 )
If I had gone through the trouble of grafting a REAL Ferarri frame and engine into a damned DATSUN (which is what this chassis is, no doubt about it it IS 'one of those Datsun Replicas') I sure as hell would pop the hood to SHOW THE WORK!
Come to think of it, I'm posting this EXACT post as a new comment there right now...
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I have seen the aforementioned hinges, would quick-release pins work for you...so you can totally remove the door during service stages with no tools? That is the extent to which these parts have been thought out (and in some cases copied from the original works rally cars.)
I'll add that the standard striker mechanisim was used on all the FRP doors I saw in Japan. Though those were bought with a Nissan Part number attached to them, so I don't know how sturdily these doors are constructed, and how closely they are to a direct copy of hte original Nissan Competition offerings which utilized stock window regulators, strikers and latches, and hinges sans springs.
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Not you zmanco, the others... I was trying to point out some solutions were pertaining to one phenomenon totally unrelated to what you asked about, and will muddy the water when people read the thread thinking (confusing them) all the 'solutions' offered are applicable to your originally stated issue.
Though the irony if someone complaining that they get 'instant' boost should not be lost on the myriad of people who are continually complaining about 'lag' or 'mushy' boost characteristics.
"Drive it right, and you won't have that problem." The corollary to that would then be "Then you will have an on-boost throttle modulation issue..."
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"I just wanted to know why it isn't more popular."
Answer the questions I posited from a knowledgable standpoint and your question will be answered. Supposition and incomplete theoretical arguments won't cut it; honest, frank answers to the questions posed will tell you why in a heartbeat.
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Similar to the Crown/Turbo Toms, etc. Standard Exhaust Manifold with an adapter. Tho that one looks to be non-standard and a weld-el rework--the original stuff was a mandrel bent thick wall tube that corroded out evenutally...
A period piece as Frank Mentioned, with any number of Holley TB's or even a GM TBI and standalone you could take care of the cold drivability issues inherent in that design and make a decent daily driver which would look 'period modified' as the modern electronics could all easily be hidden under the big air cleaner.
I've seen 10 second Z's (and an 11 second ZX) that run that system, they can make power. just depends on how much you want, and what tradeoffs you are willing to live with in a daily driver...
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Yep, up to 77 or 78 the engine plate did have engine number on it, so there was a 'mathching numbers' possibility.
I sold the matching numbers L24 out of my 73 in 1985 as I wanted more power than it provided.
Anyway, the "Black Pearl" I have, doesn't have an engine number on the plate, it simply states in the middle of the engine space "L28", I believe the Brown Turd we used in LeMons (a 77) had the same identi-plate.
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Exactly what rpms do you propose this will reach, and what real world 'advantage' will you get over say a destroked L28 or L24?
With L28's being able to rev to 9000+, and a destroked 2.5L (L20A Crank) being even more revable, along with a larger bore for better valve unshrouding and high rpm breathing....
Why the fascination with the LD block? Of course some 3.5L monster may come of it, but this isn't what's being discussed in this thread, so it makes me wonder.
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Does the fact that this product possibly already exists in the marketplace get this post classified as a 'techinical' or a 'commercial' comment?
I think my engineer has returned from China, I will call him Friday morning and see if he likes the way I left his cubicle, and get more details on this. I don't believe he sourced his BOV/Boost PID controller from Trinidad.
The control you propose is a simple PID loop with surge points mapped into a controller and a dual output to Wastegate and BOV. Once venting via BOV is possible, acceptable sizing paradigms of compressor wheels for low speed operation change dramatically.
There is nothing new, only a rediscovery of another application with suitable reapplication to a new application...
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Read "What is Compressor Surge" sticky above. A control scenario supposeldy exists to vent this flow and allow operation at higher pressures/lower flows.
You have made a partial mistatement, it is NOT simply a matter of flow, it is a matter of flow at a specific pressure. Surge is ALWAYS a fuction of flow at a given pressure. It is explained in the aforementioned post.
L28 EFI procharged?
in Nissan L6 Forum
Posted
Guy in the Simi Valley did one 10 years ago...showed up at MSA.