Tony D
-
Posts
9963 -
Joined
-
Last visited
-
Days Won
74
Content Type
Profiles
Forums
Blogs
Events
Gallery
Downloads
Store
Posts posted by Tony D
-
-
Bosch did that all the time...
I don't have time to dig out my stuff, believe what you want.
You didn't answer my actual parts substitution question, you just insisted you were right.
Like I said, believe what you want.
-
Never saw the logic for a Spork, got a fork, got a spoon, why on earth combine them?
Yet the unholy merger happened, and it's out there to this day.
I remember the day the spork was introduced at school.
Indeed it was a black day for the old-school Fork and Spoon Maker's Guild...
And like Kodachrome, many never thought it would go away, but they stopped production.
If you have it, shoot it, and send it in. There are only two labs left processing it, and when the last commercial production is ended, they won't be keeping that process going.
"So the Maples formed a union, and demanded equal rights... they said the oaks are much to greedy, we will MAKE them give us light!"
-
IF the L20E Injectors are the same as an L28
AND the ECU 'varies the pulsewidth' for the smaller engine size
THEN an L28 installed with an L20E ECU will run lean in OPEN LOOP due to the preprogrammed pulsewidths.
WHY is this not the case?
WHY does an L28 with L28 injectors run RICH (noticably, like 10:1 AFR's) in this case?
If the injectors are the 'same' (regardless of color or numbers on them) this should be an identical swap with no change.
You're saying the S130 Fairlady 280Z with L28 has the same injectors as the L20E powered car? (And that an L20E and L20ET have therefore, THE SAME injectors---which is NOT the case!)
This was not the case when new, they were different part number (NISSAN part numbers, not injector part numbers.)
JECS part numbers may be the same, but internal differences change things.
-
/Channels Ted Nugent Wango Tango/ verification of instrumentation is critical to the investigation of the possible viscosification of your lubrication...BABY!
-
Reading the post or thread sometimes answers questions you may have:
"I store my tank full of air using a block valve on the outlet port, I can drain out condensate the next day after it all drops out of solution. Lets me start work while the initial fill starts, as well as fill a tire or three without turning on the compressor. Smaller tanks (like 30 gallon) usually work well being blown down at days end and being started with the drain open for a while."
Just an example...
BTW, AIR is not what will damage the tank. Condensed water is what will cause an issue. Draining water out is what you want to do. As I said, leave the air in there overnight so all the water drops out, drain the water and leave the air. You will be fine. Wet air is bad, dry air is fine...
-
Z31 had limiter, their 500 hp box for the S130 employs a Z31 box, so removing that feature would be nice for employment in the earlier chassis.
-
I got my 14X10's and 14X9.5 Wats... No need for 17's.
Good luck, this is a tall order in the world of bottom-feeders.
-
And afterwards, they start craving a cigarette...
Who am I to deny their request?
-
they like it...
they want it...
they know when to step baaa aaa aaack on command!
-
They know what's coming, trust me. It's loudly announced immediately beforehand...
-
Yeah, nobody paid anybody for Kodachrome. /Channeling Dennis Hopper/ That was, like, pure man! Pure!
-
They took my Kodachrome away.
Never say never Markham!
-
I have urges every day. I am weak, I can't quit. Problem is I don't have enough time in the day, or opportunity to indulge to the point where I might think I should quit.
And if I quit, then those urges...oh those urges will be overwhelming, I would be consumed.
My lanolin fetish would then probably get really bad...
-
For the longest time I had an "Abled" sticker in my window hung from the rearview mirror. Looked like the handicap sticker, but was the same stickdude running with 'fast' lines behind him. "ABLED PARKING" is what it said.
I got so much grief from the Customs guys in Otay Mesa, they just didn't get it. One was all serious "which one of you is Handicapped?" Really on the ball with his reading, eh? I even let him READ it and it took him much longer than it should have to 'get' that it was NOT a handicap sticker, but really something that entitled me to park anywhere else because I didn't have hangnails, rump rash, etc... and 'needed' to park close to the dog grooming salon's entrance.
-
E.D. you have L20ET injectors, the L20E injectors are not green, and are a different P.N than the L28....unless they are on an L28E, then they are the same. This was already posted. Unless you have Nissan Documentation to back up your contention, I'd remove it E.D., it's fallicious.
-
These are the benefits of living in a rural area. We have no homeowner associations, no neighborhood watch, no irate notes placed in recalcitrant owners’ mailboxes.
So why not maintain my house? Because I realized long ago that it won’t appreciate in value, and my time is better spent furthering my career than trimming the bushes. I intend to let it rot, and sell the property when I retire for the market price of unimproved land.
For all of the many disadvantages of rural life – and indeed there are many! – one can take solace that in these environs private property is genuinely private property, undiluted by communal sensibilities of what’s considered to be appropriate homeowner behavior.
Michael, are you in any way related to me by blood....As I read this, it was "yeah, that about sums it all up!"
My house is 80 feet from the road, because that's as far as I could get a free 250A feeder to the meter. It also makes a nice block of the rest of the back of the property (all 580' deep, in back of the house!) Keeps out prying governmental monkey eyes! I am upgrading the interior of my house, simply because it's a 1975 Doublewide....but 1400 sq ft is still 1400 sq ft, and as long as it's simply decent when I sell, I get the premium of a house of that size, with all utilities connected and present on site, and very little expense whilst doing so!
"Nice" houses are very misleading. Exteriors lie. My house is very different inside than you would expect from the outside. But that's not a bad thing. The neighbors may have to worry about someone breaking in to take their stuff, but my dogs on the old rattan furniture on the front porch kind of stop those thoughts. Besides 'what could be good in a doublewide when we got this nice 3400 sq-ft mansion next door with columns and a pool, and a dually parked out back connected to a big boat?'
-
It all comes down to pride of ownership. If you are ok with your place looking like a dump, then you have no pride in the things that you own.
Pride goeth before the fall. Plenty of 'proud' HOA owners walked from their obligations when the times turned down. How your yard looks doesn't have jack sh*t to do with 'pride of ownership', it does though, show that you put far more value on other human beings thinking nice things about you than you should.
I purposely took a place in the 'borderline' because it was the furthest out I could go and still have a reasonable commute to the airport. All the infrastructure is now coming in, and new HOA owners are taxed to the hilt to pay for it. I'm Prop-13'd from those extortive fees and taxes. Bummer, huh?
And I don't worry about Code Enforcement becasue there are PLENTY of people around me with FAR WORSE looking places than mine. What do I care what their yard looks like, it's none of my business!
I guess I grew up in an era or a place where there were more pressing priorities than displaying status via hemmoraged cash for yard work and lawn care. I am not Hank Hill in that respect. Not by a longshot. Nor am I 'Malcolm in the Middle' dead-grass and weeds bad. Though my neighbor is....and I don't care. It's his business.
-
I got 6 in one of my storage container. In California. Sorry, I'm a hoarder.
-
Excuse, please, I was somewhat obtuse in my response. Let me clarify:
"Stick it in a head, attach your degree wheel and dial indicators, and start rotating and recording the valve events.
Only chance in hell of confirming what you have."
Forgive me for my earlier retort, I can see how it could be misunderstood, it went waaaaay wide of the mark!
-
Where's that hole in the gas tank you keep IM'ing me about? The one bigger than a penny....
-
What program will run the .srt file extension that is ocntained in the ZIP file?
-
Stick it in a head, attach your degree wheel and dial indicators, and start rotating and recording the valve events.
Only chance in hell of figuring out what you have, save for someone with that exact same cam reading your post and recalling the specs, or actually having the cam card.
Best get to it, I doubt highly the latter will be occurring.
-
Are you setting the regulator to 95psi in use?
Adjusting a regulator is done when the airflow demand is actual. You have a cheap regulator, and you will have to set it this way, and likely it will 'creep' when there is a flow drop or increase. It may be undersized.
Running with a regulator is the right way to do it, running an air tool designed for 90psi at 145 not only wastes air, it wears out the tool, and can casue a potential explosion from overspeed. I have seen pneumatic rivet guns blow up when pressurized well above their recommended operating pressure (say 150 psi on a 90 psi recomendation.) Watch your air tool trackside on that TWO-STAGE regulator off the N2 bottle and see what it does when the first stage of the reg fails and you start pumping 1500psi through it...
Proper air system engineering dictates that storage is a higher pressure, regulated down for distribution for any number of reasons, and then usually at point of use there is another regulation point for even lower pressure. Storage in a 55 gallon tank is MORE CFM at 145 than it is at 90psi. If you have a leak in the distribution network, running 145psi to point of use will waste FAR more air than if that same hole/leak had 90psi available to it. Even the N2 tank at trackside has TWO regulators on it: dropping it from the high side from 3500 to a lower intermediate pressure which is internally fixed (Usually the upper range on the LP gauge), and then the larger twist-knob regulator portion that regulates that intermediate pressure down to point of use.
Run your air tools at higher then 90 psig, most of the time all you do is waste air. Mostly, all you do is waste air. Air hammer surface areais likely insignificant to have appreciably more 'impact' to the chisel at 145 -vs- 90, but it does cycle the hammer faster, meaning the BPM goes up and you cut faster. IF you actually measured the cutting rate and compared the linear rate between the two pressures against CFM consumed, likely it's marginally less efficient at a higher pressure or marginally more efficient. In the end the only concrete thing you will know is per time of use, at 145psig, you will use more air than same time of use at 90 psig.
Industry-Wide the impetus is to run the air line pressure at the lowest possible pressure to get the job done for lowest cost per CFM. Over compression of air has been a target by industries for over 10 years now, simply because Compressed Air is one of the highest cost utilities in a plant. I have seen air audits at pulp mills where after repairing air leaks, a 600HP compressor no longer ran. 600HP worth of air leaks! Hmmmm, figure $3450 per amp per month for electrical cost on a 4160V compressor, and that is roughly 60A of horsepower at that voltage level. What is that per month in electrical savings? From air leaks? Not to mention now that it doesn't run save for standby, the annual maintenance cost goes from $8450 per year in parts, to that same amount over four years (goes from 8,000 hours per year, to a rotated 2,000 hours per year of operation.)
I could go on-and-on!
Yeah, I work on compressors.
-
What brand of compressor? Most manufacturers will be able to give you an instruction booklet via a link on their webpages (or at least whomever bought them out may be able to tell you...)
Generally, older Cast-Iron compressors will take a 30wt ND (non-detergent) oil. Using automotive oil with detergents will keep wear particles 'in suspension' and the result will be accelerated wear on bearing and ring areas. For the occasional air user at home, you may never notice this. Do it in a shop compressor that runs 2000 hours a year, and it will show up within a couple of years. There is absolutly no reason to run a Mulit-Vis in a splash-lubricated compressor.
PAG or PAO synthetics are more expensive, but in older compressors with real valve systems, they can keep the compressor operating longer due to cleaning up the deposits on the valves---if you operate at higher pressures ND Motor Oil can carbonise on the valves and you loose efficiency. The synthetics will strip off any varnish and carbon, and be more heat-tolerant than mineral oils.
Orange Milky Condensate is rust from the tank discoloring the water (condensate), the thick stuff is emulsified oil. Most auto-drainers (good ones at least) will blow down the tank once air pressure drops 10psi. Meaning every time the compressor cycles, the tank will be vented momentarily to dump condensate. Daily before and after use manual blowdown is a minimum.
I store my tank full of air using a block valve on the outlet port, I can drain out condensate the next day after it all drops out of solution. Lets me start work while the initial fill starts, as well as fill a tire or three without turning on the compressor. Smaller tanks (like 30 gallon) usually work well being blown down at days end and being started with the drain open for a while.
I could go on and on. Compressors is my business...
130mph floating issue
in Windtunnel Test Results and Analysis
Posted · Edited by Tony D
Non-North American Models were available from the beginning of the model run with a five speed. They were also available through Nissan Comp (Z or Roadster Box).
It is possible a 70 has a five speed, either from it's non-US origin, or a previous swap with available Nissan Factory Components.
Many dealers would install the Nissan Comp Parts before you took delivery.
Obviously there was a five speed in '70, you just had to work a bit to get one in a car here in the USA. Not so elsewhere.