Tony D
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Posts posted by Tony D
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I have run R4S pads (S-Street...) for years without issue. You run the R4 compound and you will have exaggerated issues. But R4S's on the street dust a bit and squeal under light braking, but under panic situations, they bite just fine.
My immediate thought was either sticking caliper and weight differential.
The TUV inspection in Europe does a test and the braking force applied has to be within 3% side-to-side or they won't let you register the vehicle. If the thing is still locking when there's a 200# passenger, and a 160# driver, I'd lean more towards a caliper sticking. It is common enough. If the pads have been on there any length of time, you should see a difference in the wear side-to-side. My last set of R4S's on the Blue Turd went out due to a stuck caliper, so I can see that happening. One side was almost metal-to-metal while the other side still had a good 3mm left on the pads.
Make sure the pivot pin is lubed...
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You don't have any blind spots. Door mirros will always have blind spots.
End of the discussion for me. If I can see fine out of the at 45+, you youngsters really shouldn't have any issues. If ya do, consider the eye doctor for a checkup (passing the DMV test does not mean 'my eyes are fine'!)
Just make sure you orient them properly, there are LHD and RHD templates out there, and if you get it wrong....fail!
Also, if you want a 'larger' mirror, the later models have big gaudy ones with a much bigger glass...and they're fully adjustable from the driver's seat.
Thing is, if you adjust them correctly, they don't need readjustment for 'end of day shrinkage' like a door-mounted mirror. If you work out the field of view and trig from driver's eye to focal point, you will see a 1" difference on a door mirror is a readjustment...on a fender mirror it's more like you have to change 5" before a readjustment is required.
My wife is 5'2, and needs the seat 'up front'... My head is a hand's width from the headliner, and the seat is about 1/2 way back on the rails. The fender mirrors on our Fairlady Z 2/2 do not need adjustment between us.
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Period Correct: Lots of early Hot Rods had inline sixes.
Saw a Nissan Employee that did one with a VG30 using Side-Draft Mikuinis. Two of them were cut in half for the 'third' barrel on each bank. Apparently that manifold and carbs was 'harvested' from Ivan Stewart's off-road truck...
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Same for me, actually! Can't walk down the or even get near fertilizer in Lowes.
Some stuff is bad, other stuff is strange that it freaks out my wife, but for me it's no big deal.
I always crack open the carb cleaner and brake cleaner to see if it smells right...
Holdover from Mimeographing Withdrawl during Elementary School.
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"While this is inherently not bad it comes into play with perfumes and such. I can't walk in certain parts of stores without being assaulted if yah get my drift. "
Transvestite Nonsmoker Section?
I thought those were only in SanFrancisco and West Hollywood.
Can you decipher bodily fluid ingredients? The world awaits the answer with baited breath!
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It's common knowledge amongst L-Engine Builders that the stock bolt-washer combination is unsatisfactory in any sort of performance application.
If you were using a stock fastener steup, you take the blame for the consequences. This has been in performance building literature for the L-Engine for over 20 years now, there is no excuse for not using an upgraded bolt and washer since they are readily available.
Line-Line fit is not what holds the components in place (This is actually discussed recently in another thread...), it's clamping force between the washer and bolt head being pulled onto the end of the crankshaft, and the stack of components behind the damper---there is absolutely no axial limitation on the tolerance stack it changes build to build and differs if the oil slinger is used or not, knowledgable builders will measure the axial dimensions of the components before buildup to determine if the washer or crank bolt end will need machining to keep it from bottoming before exerting full clamping force on the shoulder of the pulley, and at the same time the timing gear, and crankshaft oil, slinger. If the dimension of the 'stack' is incorrect from the shoulder on the crank snout where they 'bottom out' then longer bolts, thicker washers, higher torques are all called for in performacne applications.
These parts ARE a 'consumable' item as well. Anybody thinking they last forever and will never have to be replaced is simply misinformed.
In this post, both TimZ and Braap mention is directly: If you are seeing woodruf key problems, it's due to inadequate clamping forces. It's from pulley movement, and that results from inadequate axial clamping load. This is basic engineering. There is a reason Nissan Motorsport has sold a special bolt and washer setup for competition usage forever and a day, and even that isn't an optimal design. There is an internal link in the above post which has more detailed information about alternate pulley retention hardware. It's not suggested in performance applications, it's mandatory.
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The second photo is of the connection on the fenderwell from the original 280Z Reluctor (green and red wire) that trigger the transistor ignition unit, it is where you would connect the GM Hei Module were you simply converting from the transistor ignitioon to a GM HEI Module.
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Magnaflux is NOT a 'dye penetrant' inspection process! The kits you are talking about are either Spot-Chek, or Zyglo.
The Magnaflux process uses an induced magnetic field in a ferrous component and a magnetic dust shaken on the part---the theory being any crack will give a 'north and south' magnetic pole setup and the particles will align. In some instances these can be INTERNAL cracks close to the surface that have failed to fully propogate to the surface, from a casting inclusion, etc.
I wouldn't do my own check on a crankshaft, the charge for a proper maxnaflux and zyglo inspection should be under $50 and that will be done right by someone who knows what to look for on the components.
I spot-check Pistons, though. My Zyglo stuff is all out of date, you need a pretty good dark room and shroud to block the light to do that test. I'd just pay the $ and have the guy run the test.
Oh yeah, and the 'clamping'---the KA bolt is too ling, but Jeff used that Volvo Washer which was thicker, so it didn't bottom. I have seen people take the ARA air conditioners off, as well as the drive pulley, then screw in the crankshaft bolt---bottoming it out because there's no auxiliary pully under it, making the stock pulley wobble all over and do all sorts of nasty stuff. Sometimes you can even hear the washer rattling at idle (tink-tink-tink-tinka!)
This is the same process our company uses to mate centrifugal compressor impellers to their drive pinions, our 'keys' are only there for precision alignment as well--in some cases they are nothing more than a 1/8" spring pin. If the impeller stud 'goes soft' and elastically deforms....that's all she wrote! Wreck time.
Of course, those are turning 54,000 rpms, not 7000...
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RC Engineering is in Torranc, they are on the web...
I have a Planters Cheese Ball Container full of L20E injectors out in the shed, some place. Figured they were the perfect size to use on my N/A 1641 VW Motor when I get around to going EFI on it...
I put those aside from 1985-1989, Megasquirt came out in what, 2001? I didn't have to wait that long, only a decade for affordable fuel injection!
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Still only 300 yen a pack in Japan... In the old days that was less than a buck, now only about $3.25.
Picked up a carton of Duty Smokes for JeffP at Kansai for 2300 Yen.
Does that make me the Enabler?
Good Luck!
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/Channelling Comic Book Guy/
"If he cut through the stairs and they are glowing red with a hole through them in one instant, why do they not glow the next, and are miraculously reconnected mere moments later. Are these some sort of new light saber, with a 'stun-regeneration' setting?"
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And people wonder why I idly jot VIN's down at car shows and in junkyards...
Just this instance! I'm detached from my list of VINS now, but find yourself a 91 240SX and call in that VIN to the monkey running the terminal at your local Nissan dealership. From there they may be able to grab you a proper bolt and washer. Seems they are unable to do anything now without a VIN.
I go in with stuff off the FAST CD I bought off e-bay. I mean, if I can find it with a couple minutes of guessing....why can't they---a trained service individual be able to do the same?
Holy necropost batman! (BTW) You might want to PM JeffP and see what his guy has to say, he got those numbers from Nissan in Garden Grove through his connection there. Pretty bad when you have your own personal customer number and discount rate set up that gets you better pricing than most local independents due to the volume of stuff you buy...
Good Luck, gotta hope a train, Plane, and then a Z! (After about 14 hours in the middle conveyance!)
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Nice compressor bypass valve...
I end my comments there.
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"and your not having lost your cool has been impressive."
I don't know if I'd go so far as to make that statement...
But three people get it, hopefully some day the important one will. I won't hold my breath.
Time to book my return flight. Okamura says next time I'm in Saitiama, he will take me by some car places...
Alan knows where.
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I just rescued someone who bought a Z up in Suisin City and paid a bit much for what it really was (as opposed to what it was represented to be!), this post is like 2 weeks late, I would have MUCH rather directed him your way.
Would have saved me 14 hours in my dually towing his ass back from Panoche Road on I5...then working on the car for 2 days straight so he could finish the drive home (East Coast!)
He would have really dug this car!
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"That isn't the neglige you were looking for... I think you'ld like to try that crotchless number on over there in the leather-goods section..."
I mean, c'mon, where's the old geezer teaching them the ways! Kinda fell short. You need the obi-wan introduction...
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Well, now I know where Ford Ripped off the Pintos Back-Glass idea from....VOLVO!
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"BTW, lesson learned for me: always use loctite on the damper and crank bolt from now on!"
What continually amazes me, though, is that 'The Bible' has had those directions written down in it since before I was doing L-Engines. My VERY FIRST pulley replacement was done by the book according to Honsowetz, and that was 1985 or thereabout.
Who rebuilds and engine and doesn't locktite the crank pulley bolt, and use cylindrical locking compound? Especially when 'the directions' say to do so?
Overkill is one thing, but if you don't know, overkill is a good thing given the consequences.
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It's already been said, you missed it.
But nobody deleted anything. Start over, read without the attitude, absorb.
Learning comes from within, to learn from others you must know yourself.
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Hell, you want the ultimate NVH Experience, take the Shinkansen from Tokyo to Hiroshima!
I looked down at my GPS and went HOLY SH*T! 268kph? I was walking around. You want to talk about velocitized---hell they are going 100mph till right up to the station. And some express trains on the 'middle track' come running through the stations full out, you feel the compression wave off the front of the train, and then the push at your back by the vacuum as it exits---it's the reason for the 'yellow line' on the floor---so an unsuspecting person isn't knocked off balance and allowed to fall on the tracks.
You don't really get ANY sensation of speed AT ALL on that thing. Until you look at your GPS and go HOLY SH*T! Or stand ready in a station because you feel the rumble. If the camera isn't already on and focused---the most you can hope for is to catch the last 8 cars of a 16 car train when it comes through. By the time you hear it coming, it's already going!
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"If I had a choice I'd move to Massachusetts or Rhode Island."
You are not helping your case.
Your last reply of "-How exactly do you think I can shut up and listen, to dudes in Japan? I don't go to Japan, I don't speak Japanese. How does this work? I'm not being sarcastic either. I think it would be fantastic to watch how its done."
Shows just how much you have to learn---if it's not right in front of your face, you can't see it, and even then you will need it pointed out to you. And even after that has happened, you will argue ad naseaum about it.
Nobody is as blind as those who WON'T see.
It's been all said before: "Sigh" & "You don't get it."
You win, you're in a dearth, deserted and alone. There you go, you have crowned yourself Lone Wolf. I'm sure in 20 years you will be someone who will expound on all the things 'you' discovered simply because from your viewpoint that is what happened.
The arrogance of making a statement like that will never occur to a person such as yourself. YOU discovered it. NOBODY else ever knew it before.
It's like guys making those statements about a Flat-Head Ford. All you can do is laugh. Good luck, you will need it!
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The sad thing is, this motor only has about 5000 miles on it since its previous owner rebuilt it.
This is why I say not to 'rebuild engines' because with someone saying this engine was 'rebuilt' 5000 miles ago...well it is a prime example of being worse off than what they started with!
The loctite is not a 'temporary fix' or a 'rigging' it's recommended from the get-go when rebuilding. Cylindrical locking compounds help retain the mating surface, and when installed correctly do not cause an issue upon removal, given proper procedures. Nobody here has mentioned the KA24 Crank Snout Bolt and Washer Upgrade---if you use the same bolt and washer over, this WILL happen again, especially if you rev the longer-stroke of an L28. The torque pulsations from each cylinder hitting are big, and will loosen or work that crank snout hard. Longer Bolt + 1/2" Thick Hardened Washer = Pulley properly clamped to the crank snout to prevent fretting in the future.
There is no reason to pull the engine, crank service can be done in-frame. If it bothers you that much, with nothing more than a floor jack and some 2X4 blocks you can get the clearance to pull the crank out from the bottom. Yeah, it sucks doing it on your back, and in some cases laying in dirt and mud...but you can do it. If money is as tight as you say, then save the money on the lift rental, do the job in-frame (Norm the 12SU Dude described the process elsewhere...as well as how to PULL the engine out the bottom without and engine hoist!), and save that money for the Magnaflux Crank Inspection Braap discussed.
This is not the end of the world, just a shuffling of time from one priority to another. If you don't have the little bit of money now for an inspection....will you have the massive money later for the possible wreck that may occur?
Last point to ponder----if this guy says he rebuilt the engine and you found THIS....WHAT ELSE LAYS INSIDE UNOTICED??? Sounds like the biggest reason of all to pull the engine down and MAKE SURE what you have, judging by these photos, you never know what you will find inside when you open it up! Am I the only one with this concern?
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It's not highly debatable, just wrong. You won't concede that, because you have an inability to see it from the other side. That is the basic problem with your attitude.
You can lone-wolf this shite all you want. You will have a LONG AND HARD road, and in 20 years you will have probably 1/2 the knowledge of someone like me, who instead of holding to my Texas guns and standing firm, took a stance that perhaps I DON'T know it all about business, L-engines, or the way the world works.
I gained the knowledge I did not through some superior mental capacity or inherent ability. I gained it the Japanese way: I shut my mouth, spent a LOT of time quietly observing, and showing reverence to the people who were MAKING THE POWER. When I deigned to ask, due to my humility, they answered.
You will gain a LOT more knowledge shutting your mouth, supressing your Texas Ego, and simply LISTENING to what is being said by people instead of going off half cocked and pissed off that you think you have been wronged.
The way to gain knowledge is to be around people who have it, and get it from them. If you think you will learn this on the outside....good luck!
"Its not because of money, its not because of the lack of skill (well for my case that may be true but for a lot of people here in the states), its because you can't get a hold of it, if you go through certain distributors. "
And making excuses like that is part of your problem. Alan isn't holding a flag for me, he's parallell to me making similar comments. As the Japanese say: "The Same, But Different"
If you fail to grasp that concept, you will never understand Japanese thought, nor will you understand how they work their system.
I just spend $200+ getting my distributors puking drunk here in Hiroshima, and at the end of the night we all understand each other much better. Thought they still distrust me because they think I speak far more Japanese than I really do... But because I ACT more like they do than I 'should' as a Gaijin, it fuels that paranoia that I know more than I'm letting on to knowing. A very uncomfortable position to be in as an asian dealing with a westerner. I'm not supposed to be like that. They are. How did I get this way.
I can tell you this much: It wasn't from getting P.O. because my ego couldn't handle the fact that someone picked me up as a wannabe at this point in my endeavors and ignored me. Perhaps listening and observing is more in order than demanding service and attention...
I feel this is all falling on deaf ears, like Woldson is alluding to... but I have to try.
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I'll add another subjective butt dyno anecdote so you can see just how ill it really is:
I had changed from the large HKS style plenum to the small box Corky Bell style plenum like everybody else here in the USA seemed to be using. I immediately did not like the response I was getting. At 110 (indicated) the car no longer planted me in the seat like it did with the larger plenum with a built-in diffuser.
After getting a fix-it ticket, I found I had an ATROCIOUS speedo error.
Long story short: What I thought was poor performance at 110mph, was actually complaining that the car no longer 'planted me' at 137mph when I tromped on it.
Speed, Torque, and it's feeling is something you get "used to"---some call it 'velocitization'---the phenomenon of thinking hyperperformance is actually mundane and in some form or way middling in performance.
When I took the turbo off, I almost committed suicide the car was so gutless! I went from 350 to 140 in 1/2 hour. No torque compared to what I was used to having. No more romping it in 5th to pass people at 80+ effortlessly. Now I had to downshift to 3rd to get decent passing, and then only to around 90mph. No more merging on a short ramp at 120+...
This was a striking revelation for me. I seriously was complaining that the car didn't plant me at 110 (which in fact was 137mph due to speedo error).... I didn't know how good I had it!
Beware the butt-dyno. It lies to us all!
TOO INTENSE RESTORATION PARTS
in Body Kits & Paint
Posted
The Devil-Z had Ambers on it, as did all the cars in the JDM at that time...