Tony D
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Posts posted by Tony D
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I would agree with 1FastZ, the balance is a combination of parts. Even a VW operating at 4000rpms peak has form thefactory, marks which are to be aligned with marks on the flywheel to keep maximum imbalance of the flywheel/pressure plate combination wihtin specification.
I have not balanced a flywheel and then stuck on a pressure plate, the cover and flywheel always went in together. And at a minimum they are individually balanced to the tightest tolerance I can get out of the balancer otherwise, with a 'heavy spot' mark pla ced on them.
A good balance shop should be able to give you a printout of hte balance of the item (Shenck and Hoffman do this, not sure on other machines)
Knowing where the 'heavy point' is on each component makes arriving on a field balance solution easier if this is required.
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Just was paging through some 1983 "Carboy" magazines...and there is a 'How To' on Drifting, and some coverage on local drift events in Japan that occurred earlier that summer. Just a flash from the past. Nice vintage adverts for HKS, Tomei, and an article on an install of a TC24B1 head in a ZX!!!
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I had an AMT 380 that would stovepipe with hollowpoints, and a rework of the feed ramp solved the issue.
Sounds like yours is a different issue given the other symptoms, like you said, spring possibly.
I liked that little AMT, come to find out the nice 'wallet holster' that came with it is totally illegal in CA... But man it made carrying it around so easy! LOL
And yeah, it was a .380. Hollowpoints were a necessity. I don't work those hours any more, so it's filed away in 'the vault'...separate from it's nice wallet holster which, of course, is out of state now, as merely posessing it is a no no here...
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It all depends on what fuel pressure your injectors are rated at...
Generally they want 'Static' fuel pressure for the flow rating---which is fuel pressure key on, engine not running (or running with the vacuum line reference to the regulator restricted/blocked/removed.)
What this accomplishes is effectively decreasing the 'size' of your injectors by some ammount at idle due to the vacuum, allowing a longer pulsewidth at idle which most standalones can handle easier.
This resolution issue may not be an issue with modern electronics, but in the old days, decreasing the fuel pressure 10psi at idle could mean the difference between a 170cc/min injector and a 150cc/min injector, effectively. It helps get resolution at idle for emissions for sure. And with an old processor....
But all FPR's should be 1:1, meaning they reference manifold pressure and keep the same relative pressure drop across the injector regardless of vacuum, or boost present. This makes calculations on the ECU much easier as it's dealing with a set value for possible injection delivery, and it's basically a linear scalar.
This is why most MS setups show VE's very low at idle: you have 'decreased' the size of the injector by manifold referencing the fuel pressure, and at 36psi there idling you are X% in flow delivery below what the internal algorithim shows as delivered by a straight-static referenced 3 -Bar injector with 3 bar on the fuel delivery line. On an N/A engine, you can run straight static fuel pressure, but you run the risk of leaning out slightly at speed (versus dyno runs) if you have any sort of dynamic pressurisation of the inlet manifold from your intake positioning.
You will notice on an N/A engine if you simply run static fuel pressure to the injectors, that at idle and cruise portions of the fuel map, you will see a different VE in the bin once it's tuned to run the best than if it's a manifold-referenced FPR.
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Very good warning to post!
This is hand-in-hand with guys who lighten a flywheel and don't think anything of the mass of the pressure plate...
That kind of out-of-balance condition may not affect people running a stock wieght flywheel at lower rpms, but someone zinging up in the rev band regularly on a lighter flywheel will probably wonder what the 'buzzy' feeling is...
Good Information.
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Only 2 Years? Don't feel bad Derek, I just got back form 65 Days abroad, and hoped to get fill dirt to the house to do some landscaping for the garage...and now it turns out the first rain in three years will delay my leveling of the workpad...
I've been trying to get a place to work on my cars since 1997!
(And the Fairlady has been awaiting work since 1990!)
These things have a way of sucking time from you when you least expect it. To me, this is like watching an F1 car compared to my kid's go-kart circle the circuit. Go-Karts are fun, but sometimes I wish my projects would go 'as slow' as yours!
Nice shot of hte Gel-Coat Gooberage. Very interesting development.
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Braap beat me to it, if #1 is at TDC, you have your choice with that dial vernier caliper to do a BDC check on any of the other two, and then with simple division, knowing the crank radial/vertical movement is only going to be another 60 degrees to BDC (or from BDC) you can figure out the sweep -vs- vertical travel in the remaining stroke and figure it in additon to the present location of the piston to determine total stroke.
Or did I explain that in too addled of a way. I kow what I'm meaning to say, but probably not conveying it that well...
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I was perusing the collection of Carboy magazines on the back porch (last half of 1983) and ran across an article in the 7 or 8/83 issue regarding the 3.5L L-6 Engine, along with a photo of thecrankshaft.
Crankshaft appears to be billet, full circle, and is 90mm stroke.
The stated capacity on this build was 3434cc's.
I'm not sure on the bore, but it was either 90mm or 92mm. I ran across several articles and either bore was mentioned (someone can do hte math and repost below, I suppose).
I'll rty to get these PDF'd over the weekend, there is not a lot of particulars, but it is showing that there were in existence before the L-Engine went out of production for hte domestic market, a viable 3.5L kit out there.
Curiously, the photos of some of the boring shots revealed that indeed they did do sonic testing, and then made a decision on overbore based on the thinnest wall section encountered. In general, on a 7.0 mm wall thickness, they would take a 2.3mm bore. Doing the math it looks like they wanted to retain around a 5mm wall thickness after boring was done. And this is on an engine without liners. There are some articles in the mags from the period regarding Toyota Engines with liners and some really crazy displacement changes form OEM 1600cc offerings...
But now at least one article has been located, I'll try and get some pdfs made over the holidays and get them posted / hosted someewhere.
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$2.17 a gallon at Royal Ducth (Shell) in Diamond Bar...91 "Premium" unleaded... Unleaded 87 Regular was $1.9X
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What I *don't* like about drifting is how the movies and games make every kid in dad's corolla or civic think that they are the next pro drifter.
FLASHBACK: 1978 Substitute "Racing" for "Drifting"; "Monte Carlo or Torino" for "Corolla or Civic", and "Pro Drifter" for "Wisnton Cup Champion" and you have the same analogy. THAT will NEVER change.
In my case substitute "69 VW Beetle" or "69 Corvair Corsa" and "Audi Quattro PRO-Rally Driver" and you found the excuse for me then to go tear up fire roads in the national forest...
Nothing changes, this is simply another form of motorsport, and the Media, once it gets ahold of it, makes the masses take off in a direction.
If there are hard-core dedicated people that take up the 'fad' it lasts. Especially if there is money to be made at it. ESPECIALLY if there is money and womens that go with it. more womens than money from what I've seen.
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... but its dirt track driving. How many dirt roads do they have over in Japan?
Quite a few, actually. You minimize the skill required, and are grossly oversimplifying what it entailed in the driving skills needed to accomplish it. Sliding a car sideways on a dirt road is a 'baby step' towards what drifting is, if you want a more apt analogy, try WRC Group B Competition.
There is a big difference between sliding your car sideways on a loose gravel road at 35mph, and flipping is sideways at 120mph, 100 feet before a turn to set yourself up for a hard exit on-throttle.
What's so bad about 'dirt track driving'---I personally love WRC as well, to see the same techniques applied on Tarmac (which is a tad more sketchy as you rarely have an incident where you regain instant grip when driving on dirt/gravel, but on tarmac, that can happen with disasterous consequences at any moment if you aren't very careful!)
I take it with the band wagoners comment, the OG crowd is ok? What of all those bandwagoners here at HybridZ that have glammed-on to engine swaps as the 'thing to do'?
Be careful of categorising motorsports enthusiasts as latecomers or trying to rationalise distatste for 'recent arrivals' as it casts a pall on those who originated the sport/hobby as well.
The important thing is they are motorsports enthusiasts. They care about car control, power, handling, and improving both their vehicle and their vehicle control skills. That makes them no different than any other racing enthusiast. They are doing it, and you have to give them credit for finding their own niche in the world. I'm not going to down what they do because I misunderstand it, or don't care for it. I at least can respect the skills it takes to accomplish what they are doing.
Like I said, there were a lot of jaws that dropped from some pretty experienced Auto-X people when they actually attended an event and saw what it was about. Till then it was all 'dirt driving' and 'powersliding' comments, and clearly dismissive. It was borne out of ignorance for what it really is.
Hey, curling looks stupid as all hell to me, but I'm not going to knock the guy chucking the polished stones down the ice, nor the one with the broom. I can't do it, and I'll give the respect due to them for being out there and competing. There's plenty of guys sitting against a wall with commentary of dismissiveness, anybody can do that. Pick up a stone and hurl it. It takes effort to go out and try it, or do it. Saying it's not your bag afterwards is one thing. Doing it beforehand is another thing altogether different.
I'm no drifter, I was just around when it came to the US and laughed at 'the "newest" thing' out there. Same as I laugh when someone comes up with a 'new' whatzit or whathaveyou that has drawings in the patent office from the mid 1800's.
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I will say for the record i don't condone it BUT i will tell you from back in the day guys were doing on the street what is being done now on closed circuits. Leaving scuff marks on curbs and drifting used tires till they popped. I would literally come home at night with little pieces of rubber in my ears, nose hair.... everywhere.
Those of us who lived near Torii Station would simply go to the Yomitan Airfield, where the Japanese Police would take their lunch breaks and laugh as we tried the manouvres.
I remember running my 77 Sylvia off the rev limiter (MSD) for 15 minutes straight while slipping, sliding, and running thorugh my own smoke.
My bud Larry Mason was in the car with me, and just before I stopped I did a nice sideways crossing move through my previous smoke trail.
When we stopped, we both were spitting stuff out of our mouths, and I looked over at him, and he says "You got tire sh*t all over your face."
"So do you."
"What's this stuff in the air?" (pfft, spit, pfft!)
I take a look out the window, and the whole side of my car is covered in tire grindings "Dude, I think this is (pfft, spit, pfft!) RUBBER! It's all over the car!"
"Oh man, do you got any tread left on the tires?"
"Uh oh!..."
Man, I loved that old Sylvia. I accomplished my first all-wheel drift going through the valley and up the hill on a series of sweepers to Nakagusku Castle. It was done going uphill which, for an underpowered 1800cc engine was accomplishing something (or so I thought) at the time.
I still remember that moment. Like it was yesterday.
I miss Okinawa. It was a great place to be!
That 'rubber in the hair' thing just struck a chord "Yeah, I remember that!" LOL
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Yep, the Gator Supercharger is the alternative I was referring to in the Toro Reference.
His little booklet on how to modify turbos into superchargers for small displacement engines is a fun read, and makes you look at those 5HP Honda Go-Kart engines in a totally different light. Especially the ones with built in generators...because when you got a spare megasquirt laying around and a kid with time on his hands....
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Not all P90A Heads hydraulic, but the valves are a different length, but that's a stretch.
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You have defeated the design of the JTR kit installing it 'as designed'.
They don't 'go backwards' for a RHD car, either.
What the JTR kit does is move the engine in the chassis BACK and TO THE RIGHT for better weight distribution.
With a RHD car, what you end up doing is concentrating weight on the right side of the car heavily because of driver's position. The JTR kit moves the engine to the right to somewhat offset the driver's weight in the LHD chassis, as well as give some clearance for linkages on the transmission chosen.
On an RHD car, you would expect the mounts to move the engine back and the the LEFT, but this MAY result in linkage issues/clearance issues depending on the transmission setup you have.
You MAY have no other choice but to use them 'as is' to keep clearance, but if you wish the proper L/R weight distribution, moving the engine to the left porportionally in respect to vehicle centerline as the original mounts moved it right would be the ideal situation.
The movement back is of course to get any weight penalty from an all-iron engine in between the wheelbase so as not to make steering effort unbearable.
If you can make a Caddy Powered S30 steer lightly by moving the engine rearward, that advantage is in no dispute!
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drifting has been around for a long time in japan and is still going strong. i first saw it on Okinawa back in the late 80s!!!!.
Drifting in japan seems to be one of the first steps for gear head car guys to take. is it a fad??? it think it has been around long enough to not qualify as a fad anymore but will it stay. not sure current crowds at the events say it will stay for a little while at least.
I agree with Stony, I get a charge out of kids claiming to have been doing 'drifting longer than anybody else' because they started in go-karts...all the while seeing from their profile they're someplace in their early 20's...
I think Stony and I must have been at the same streets and the track up in Nakodomari to watch those competitions...which were old hat in mainland japan by that time---there were shop owners in Oki at that time (The 80's) in their 30's who had been doing it since they had their driving licenses. I sold my 77 Fairlady Z to the owner of Car Shop Saku-Gawa (sticker on the side of my rollaround tool box) who was bigtime drifting.
So here in the USA...it's 'only' around 15 years old, but in Japan, it's easily 2X that age as a definable sport and 'thing to do'.
Most people poo-poohing it have never seen a top tier event in person. I watched a lot of topnotch auto-x'ers drop their jaw when they saw what actually goes on, and at what speed. It's more than slipping a car sideways around a corner. Many of the technical sections happen on straight sections with apex cones set up. And when more than one car is on-track in the finals, with each one trying to trip the other one up...
Just a fan of the 'fad' for the last 25+ years....
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Filled up at the Union 76 Station right on Century Blvd leaving LAX (and after 65 days of sitting, and getting covered in ASH on the roof of the parking spot, the 260 started right up...WOO HOO!) for $2.35 Super, it was 2.05 for Regular. And this is not the cheapest gas in the area by a longshot. Frankly, it's probably some of the most expensive...but the car was on "E" and I wanted to get home after being on planes for over 36 hours.
All was well till 6 miles from the house when the LR tire took a dump from some large metal debris in the roadway...ended up at home by 9pm. Left LAX at 4:30...
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The Centrifugal Supercharger has been successfully applied to the L6 engine. There was a guy in the SF Valley that had a wicked supercharged setup. MSA looked into his setup, which was very sanitary (SC mounted where the aftermarket A/C pump would up by the fuel pump area above the alternator.)
Car was wicked-quick. Very nice application. I don't know that I took photos of it at the old OutcaZst meeting or not. he showed at MSA a couple of years, and then dropped off the radar. It was a mustard-brown early car, SC was a small Paxton if I recall.
Hell, make your own out of a Magnesium Toro Leaf Blower Impeller, it's two-sided, has tons of flow, and when you decrease the tip clearance from the handheld blower tolerance to something more akin to a turbo (in the range of 0.050-0.100") you can boost that baby over 15psi easily.
Fun project for son and dad...
I digress...
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I borrowed then bought several sizes because the dumbhead that did my seats didn't equalize valve seat depth in the head, so I had to use about 4 different sizes all the way along the valves to get the correct wipe patterns on the rockers. What a pain in the rear that was!! Now I'm sure to mention this whenever I get head work done (and the seats need attention for whatever reason).
Is that the case on this head as well? My first thought was 'what is the valve stem height'?
There is a specification for it, and that is what lash pad thickness is predicated on in conjunction with the base circle.
If the valves are suck too deep (as 1fastZ suggested) you will never get the lash needed.
A thinner pad is not the way to fix this, it may initially give you running clearance, but wipe pattern likely will be askew, as well as closing up as the engine runs in and you're screwed!
Check valve stem height. If it's not correct, get the head builder to do the job correctly, and if that means he ruined a set of your seats by grinding on them and sinking the valves too deeply, then he needs to put in a set of seats and grind them to proper depth/height.
Usually the problem with a reground cam is excessive clearance, not too little. Too little is almost always valve stems sitting up to high.
You might be able to shim the cam towers to get acceptable clearances back. The cam to crank distance needs to be maintained, there is some tolerance there if your head hasn't been milled any...
But the valve stems all need to be the same height for a proper vavle job.
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Imagine that, a guy from Toronto queueing Rush to make a point.
LOL
"But the Oaks ignore their pleas!"
he he he he
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THe shipping company won't ship it as household goods? Or they won't ship a spare engine with your car?
There is a big difference. It's not uncommon for guys to ship a spare engine through the military by bolting it into the car some place...as said, the passenger's seat area is a good place for it.
I know someone who shipped four engine blocks in his household goods by bolting 1" thick lexan to the top and calling them 'end tables', I have seen Viper Blocks used as 'Wine Racks'...
But failing shipping it as part of your current car, how far are you from your maximum allowable shipping wieght? When I moved, it was $1 a pound to ship my crap from my last duty station. I would have been far better off shipping it as parcel post to my forwarding address. It would have gotten there quicker, as well!
Shipping it on a pallet should not be more than a couple hundred dollars, of course 'free' is better, but... I'm assumping from the above banter you're in the Navy (bremerton is another hint) and you guys got a baggage allowance for an E4 that was more than flag officers in the USAF, so that baggage limit may not apply.
If that is the case, CRATE THE ENGINE. If it's crated, prepackaged, and ODORLESS (meaning drain it, clean it well, and then wrap it in rags and bags) they aren't going to open it, they will just load it in the moving crate. I had suspension members, GAS TANKS, I mean, you name it, I had it in my household goods.
No, they won't ship vehcile parts. But they will ship crated items. High value crated items that you didn't want to risk shoddy shipping practices employed by local lo-bid government contractors, so you had it crated yourself.
When pressed, as above, you tell them it's a "Cast Bronze Lawn Fountian-Style Ornament, 450#"
Or perhaps "Livestock Watering Trough"...
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That's a really good read, but I don't see the triangular piece that it talks about in the desmogging paragraph on my carbs.
1) the article is about SSS FOUR CYLINDER flat-tops, a different animal than what you have.
2) you have the 'triangular piece of metal' I see it in your photos.
The Non-USA 38mm SU Flat-Tops were basically Round Tops with additional circuitry for total closure idling. Meaning the throttle plates were totally closed and a separate circuit fed fuel and air to the carbs. What the page does is ham-handedly disable the circuit, and then make the superior later-model carbs act like the earlier round tops.
If you understand what those carbs do, altering the idle circuit jet drillings allow for a perfect idle situation, while keeping the needle and jet in the main body rich for best power off-idle.
YOUR flat-tops have an integral float bowl below the throat, an FSM is invaluable to understand how to get them set up out of the gate, and then move from there. They have the same advantage that the idle circuit is totaly separate from the transition/main circuit so you can 'lean out the idle' for emissions while still having a decent needle taper for power. It's why so many of these carbs are raped and only their needles taken, they are a different taper and provide nice power when used in earlier roud-top SUs'
The power valves as well as some diaphragms on the side of hte carb are suceptible to damage from backfire, and will make them run rich.
But all facets of troubleshooting/rehjabilitation is covered in the FSM, start from there and you will get a car that runs decently.
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Good to see someone else got the same kind of response as I did.
Strike that, at least someone talked to him. Or got their calls returned...
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Filled up at Petronas in Jakarta, and for some reason it was only 5000 rupyiah a litre ($1.46 a gallon) for 95 Super unleaded.
Turbo Swap CA smog for out of state car?
in Nissan L6 Forum
Posted
No.
If you swap a turbo engine in, (this is covered in the archives) you recertify to that engine year specification, and all equipment for that year/model. And in your case, that means adding the cat, since a 79 CA model had a cat, and your chassis is identical to the 79 CA chassis.