Tony D
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Posts posted by Tony D
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Whatever you do, don't sign anything till you get the shipping quote finalized.
The old 'bait and switch' can occur and then they have your cargo and want 5X the price to release it!
But the above mentioned prices look about right for an engine. Anywhere from 300 to 750 cross country the 'long way'. it does pay to shop around.
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The designer of the system replies 3.25 million standard cubic feet per DAY. I confirm the numbers verbally that it is per day and state that I'll just divide by the number of minutes in a day (1440) to get the flow number I need for comparison (per minute).
My boss, an engineer with twice my experience, states over the phone for all to hear, "I think that there is another conversion factor in there."
But don't you know? You have to show your work!
First you have to convert to CF/Hr by dividing by 24...
Second, you convert to CF/M by dividing that by 60...
The fact that 24X60=1440 and makes for a direct conversion is just 'too far outside the box'...
Perhaps you should stay within the lines, Bo.
The lines are your friends. Stay within the lines...
Of course, he may have had a marketing course in his past, and therefore 'Just guess, and we'll make it up on ASI Revisions during commissioning'...
(ASI= Additional Scope Items)
I am done spending a week chasing 83 Pounds Per Hour of 'Capacity Shortfall' here in Bonny Island. I found it. A blind flange up in the pipe rack for the 'weak machine' that was not 'blind'... "Hey, what is this '125' on the blind mean?'
"Oh, that is a 125mm Orifice Plate."
Then why is it shown on the P.I.D. as a blind?
"Oh, that's wrong, it should be a blind."
Think the pressure differential between this system and that system might bleed over that missing 83 PPH? Think it might explain why you're getting all that 'wet air' downstream as well, even though the dryers are showing -58 Dewpoints?
Not bad work considering I was here to supervise removal of two redundant, superflous, useless, troubleprone solenoids in their inlet guide vane control scheme (that they insisted be there)...
"While you're here (and since we control flights in and out, and we have you hostage...) can you help us find the issue on your compressor why it's not delivering capacity and won't pass it's acceptance test?"
Sure, what other option do I have...
Not like I can get my own boat and leave. The pirates out there got AK's and like to shoot up 'long pig'! (Or so I hear!)
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The front resonator on the Trust system is a 'common chamber' design, meaning that I suspect it has much the same effect as an 'X' pipe or crossover in the exhaust at that point. I think if that crossover was accomplished, you could go with one can out back. Or a pair of them.
It's not like it's hard to install/remove to do testing.
Don't know the effect or requirement of the crossover on the turbo application, but I know with the turbo on it the car is much quieter than when it was N/A, so maybe a double set of tubes back to a pair of cans in the back would be totally acceptable.
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I’m curious, if you don’t mind sharing, 1) how much, and of, 2) what gain are you expecting these roller rockers will afford vs the current design?
Are you trying reduce valve train friction for better fuel efficiency? Take advantage of more aggressive ramp rates allowing more lift under the curve for a given lobe profile, (more power with less compromise in drivability?)
Jon already brought up the question, is it really worth the time, money, and effort for how much gain in what area, not taking into account the amount of research and development required that will allow you to take advantage of what roller rockers offer?
I’m assuming the perosn Tony mentioned that has done this, has been able to meet or exceeded OE valve train geometry, stability, and durability with these roller rockers?...
Well, that was a long,detailed response that the Frankfurt Wireless Internet System ate.
I shant type it again.
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I don't think there is a complete head out there that anyone wants to share info on, otherwise that info probably would have surfaced already.
That is a grossly inaccurate assumption to make. Perhaps the people who paid good money for the rights to the existing research are sitting on it? Perhaps because nobody wants to actually pay for the information themselves, or to in anyway amortize any investment in R&D, sourcing, etc...
Maybe one guy bought the head, and the other guy bought the rocker arms and all the relevant information.
Surmise all you want, but because you haven't seen something doesn't mean it doesn't exist. That is downright foolhardy, especially in light of the above commentary from JeffP and myself surrounding the subject.
Sharing information is great when you are the recipient of free information. Giving it up when it represents a potential competitive disadvantage is equally foolhardy.
"Sharing" information will come in due time, after some events take place. But pressing the issue isn't going to make it happen any quicker.
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Of all the places I stuck my Magnahelic and Digital Manometers while running pressure tests in my 240ZT, I never stuck it in the exhaust.
I really have to do that some time.
I plan on bumping my horsepower another 100HP when the car goes back together, and I figure the twin 50mm setup has been on there long enough, and it's time to put it on my Fairlady Z...
I picked up the mandrel bends and SS tubing to replicate the system in 2.5" tubing which should give me plenty of flow potential (yes yes, I know, John Coffee, "at the expense of weight and complexity") But I like the way the Greddy system hangs from all the stock hangers and doesn't bump anyplace, or hang down any more than a bone stock system does.
Plus, it's decently quiet. The system I'm going to replicate will likely be louder as the mufflers and resonator Greddy used was pretty heavy. Almost OEM specification stuff. Very durable. I mean, it was purchased new in 1978 by the original owner who put it on an HS30H (original Fairlady 240Z-G), who sold the car to the guy I bought the system from when he was upgrading to the Stainless Steel Greddy System (yeah, like $1750 in 1985!) Original muffler and resonator on it to this day.
Not a bad deal for a $40 used part! WOO HOO! New they were $700 in 1985.
Ask Alan Thomas, I'm sure he has a source...he has a source for everything! LOL
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Google it, Summit Racing, Autozone, PepBoys, Kragen, Checker, O'Rilley, Napa....they all sell the Facet Replacement Pumps. Little solid state affairs that go 'tick tick tick tick' Only good for 3-5 psi usually. Self regulating. I think the first generation Mazda RX7's even had them...
That Holley, is BIG, and NOISY. The one I'm talking about would likely fit in the palm of your hand and not extend over the edges. I can close my fist around mine and almost conceal it.
I have a bunch of them laying around, they work great for pumping fuel out of old tanks, transferring fuel, etc... Self priming. THey work as well up front in this duty as out back as a total pusher. Depends on what you want to do with it. Mine is just there to refill the bowls after it's been sitting and it is easy to get to where I did it, so no switch or anything.
If your bottom tubes are really flexible, they are the right ones. You don't want THICK walled hose, they should look almost like aquarium vinyl tubing and be as flexible. And some have a prebend in them. You don't want conventional stuff on there as it's too stiff and it will side-load the jet and can wear it out, or make the needle touch and wear a groove in it if you are using the starter system reularly.
Me? I'm helping with an SU EFI replacement...screw all that carburettor business! LOL
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There is a manufacturer in Europe (VA Motorsport Engineering) that makes these items with a BMW Inner Tie Rod End in the spot where yours broke. Allows for proper solid mounting, and gives a nice frictionless spherical ball joint that is very strong in compression. Adjustment fore/aft is done with a hexagonal piece in the middle of the rod and two jamb nuts like on a tie rod. I believe this has passed scrutineering in FIA Group 4, which should clear most any sanctioning body...
Yours broke as someone said from a deflecting moment. If the rod was only in compression, the thread would not have had itself set up as a stress point from a movement of the A-Arm up and down.
Hopefully my description was good enough you can visualize the component and go 'blimey, I can make that!'
Failing that, contact Adrian (Ad) at VA Motorsport Engineering in Rotterdam and I'm sure he can ship you a set for an appropriate fee....
Muahahaha!
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How about simply relaxing safety standards?
At what point do you get diminishing returns?
I would argue that I'm just as confident driving a 1968 VW Beetle as I am driving an early 90's Civic!
The safety 'weight' is a moot argument, really. The 'weight penalty' is not appreciably more now than 10 or 15 years ago.
What you DO have is electric everything, Windows, A/C, Seats...
I mean, when was the last time you can remember a car, with roll-up windows and no A/C?
The VX is no more because the emissions regulations changed, more than the 'weight increased due to increased safety requirements'...
I have said it before, I'll say it again: a 2003 Air Cooled VW Beetle would suit me just fine (as sold in Mexico that year)... I walked on the lot, and for just over $6300 I could get one with EFI, Velour Interior, and A/C!
What other car, on the face of the planet, in 2003 could you walk into a dealer's showroom and buy for $6300 and KNOW this vehicle and chassis was going to last for the next 35 years?
I mean, we are talking a design for the vehicle that was done in 1934 for gawd's sakes, and in 2003 was still in production with a proven reliability track record that provided the basic needs of commuter traffic and decent emissions! Sure, only about 34mpg, but it's also $6300!
Would it meet crash standards? No.
But I can drive a 68 Beetle on the roads without being restricted. The same basic car. It should be my choice. If the emissions are compliant, I should be able to insure myself as required, and drive what I want.
But we are digressing away from the Aero Content of this thread, now...aren't we?
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Yes, you can remove it with a stepped-punch from the oil pan side, but trying a tap in the ID and screwing a bolt in and a tap tap taping from a small slide hammer will also work without having to uncork your gasket on the pan...
As Braap said, 'shavings will get inside the engine' but then again if the engine is cold, you can pack axle grease down inside the tube before you run your tap into it and almost totally preclude that possibility as well...
But if you want to pull the pan....you can...
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Truthfully, I will have a far more enjoyable time watching junior college ball (there are like six teams+ near me that I can watch), and High School every Friday nite during the season. And then as a real substitute for first rate pro ball playing, Rugby Union (Go All Blacks!).
Of course, there is the Packers, which I was indoctrinated into in 1966/67 and had a loooong wait after that.
The new 'celebration and taunting' rules changes are only going so far---sadly there was a time when it was simply not done, they didn't need a rule. I think positive messages by the coaches like Singletary made will do far more to get player's heads back where they 'should' be. And when other players start putting peer pressure to stop the 'me me me' clown antics so many self-important bozos are out there doing it will be better for the game, and for spectators.
To make a confession, the Rugby Union thing... I was in Wiggan at a local match between Wiggan and Liverpool. In the 'stands' simply because I showed an interest to one of the guys at the shop in seeing a match.
I watched a guy, literally, almost get his ear torn off! The game did not cease. He quickly ran to the sidelines where a trainer who had sprinted up with some tape made two quick wraps around his head, patted him on the back as he ran back to the scrum full speed. The emotion I felt at that point, the involvement and link I felt to see someone with that kind of injury not let down his team, nor his fans...
It's something I have not really felt nor witnessed with the NFL in a loooooong time.
When the Match is over, the guys are spent. They don't have so much energy to jump around like buffoons and dance. To me, that says they didn't put it all in, and that's not what I'm paying for, especially at that level.
Go back to less padding, slow the game down to where tackling someone instead of putting a 'sting' on him is more important. Hell, just let someone get up and start running if they aren't tackled... Knocking someone down and hitting is one thing. But simply making yourself a human guided missle with a one-hit potential wasn't what the game was about for me. it takes skill out of it IMO, and just puts in some quick meat to throw into the fray onto the field.
It's like a Kurosawa Epic: "Blood, Mud, Victory or Death!"
I am an anachronisim...LOL
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Decal from 1970's vintage racing sled I once owned:
"Carburettors Equipped for Methanol Change Diaphragms After Each Racing Day"
That has not changed in 37 years...
If we want to parse the pressure argument, it 'can' work at any pressure, it just depends on the nozzle design. Bette Fog Nozzles make a nice impingement nozzle (stainless steel) that will give superfine atomization spray well below 60 psi. The key is to get the droplets fine enough that they readily vaporize and remove the latent heat from the intake charge. Given Methanol's low boiling point, you can get a relatively large droplet size and still have complete vaporization (compared to something like water, or gasoline, for instance). Ultimately the droplet size from the nozzle will be determined by the distance the droplet has to travel while changing state, and the airflow velocity at the injection point. The further you have to travel, and the higher velocity you have, as well as the higher heat, the larger the droplet size you can tolerate and still get total vaporisation. The modern systems using super high pressures (relative to older systems) allow you to place the nozzle almost anywhere and still get total change-of-state from liquid to vapor, removing the maximum ammount of heat possible.
In the old days, a carburettor jet, on a windshield washer pump, spraying into the turbo inlet gave the same results, having turbo outlet temperatures in the low 100F range, instead of 2 to sometimes 3X that value. But there is a lot of 'impingement and heat' going on in that system, as opposed to the stuff today where it comes in superfine mist for flashing in relatively low temperatures (allowing inlet temps below ambient when used with an intercooler)...and that is the final word on the high pressure: because it's so high, it can atomise so finely, it allows injection into low-temperature airflows and STILL remove heat from them.
But the stock pump? No. Cold Start Injector? No.
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would they work with a normal cam. I haven't seen anything advertised for roller rockers for an L6.
That's a resounding no. The cam profile and metallurgical composition is much different in a roller cam, as well as the profile.
As stated above, there 'once' was a vendor, but he passed on, and his developmental work was sold to someone doing the research on his own, in private, at his own cost.
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JeffP gave a part number for the bolt from (I think) a KA24. It is slightly longer so you have more threads gripping for more torque application ability.
In addition he posted something about the 1/2" thick Volvo Washer he uses to keep it from 'belling' under the torque you can put on it.
Really, the thing should fit snugly if not tightly...and the clamping force of the bolt to the snout of the crank should clamp the balancer between the wahser and the shoulder of the crank where it abuts (squeezing the slinger, drive gear, etc VERY tightly).
Can't do that with a thin washer.
The numbers may be on JeffP's anglefire website as well, 'Extreme280ZXT'.
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It indexes the pulley, not much more. If your snout is loose on the pulley, or the bolt insufficiently torqued/clamped that key won't do anything but tear up your crank snout.
I'm being pedantic today...
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I got delayed coverage on CNN last night of Mike Singletary's after game press conference about sending the guy to the locker room for not being a 'team player'...
I think Mike was spot-on, and I think as I watched his eyes in that press conference, I got a glimpse of the same look a couple of NFL Central Division QB's had during a game.
For a former Bear...he's all right. And I applaud his decision to put a prima-donna in his place. It's long overdue.
I might even start watching NFL Games in general again if they get back to playing a team sport, instead of an individual exhibition of marketing opportunities.
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Restoring something designed and built by others doesn't mean what you were given as terminology, or your understanding of same is comprehensive, nor even correct. Restoration is a lot different than design workup/prototyping/R&D and initial build.
Engineering-wise, the engine is simply another stage of compression. It is no different than using a rotary lysholm screw into a reciprocating booster for 600psi bleed air storage for testing flow control valves, or using a centrifugal in similar service. The only significant edit I would make to my original post on this subject is that it really should say 'subsequent stage of compression' instead of specifying 'second'...there can be multiple stages. And the engine is the next, subsequent, stage of compression.
If the engine is not a 'stage of compression' then let's simply remove that pesky designation of 'static compression ratio' used to describe what the piston is doing to the incoming fuel/air charge the moment before the moment of ignition. What will you call what the piston does on it's way up the bore on the 'compression stroke' (er....looks like we need to change that term then as well...what did they call that stroke in the aero engines you restored? We are talking reciprocating engines here, correct?)
Please...this 'aftercooler' argument is moot. The engine is a compression stage. Argue that it's not... I'd like to see that line of logic.
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I never knew why guys would shut off the alternator on a run when you can just make sure the battery is fully charged before the run.
An MSD Six box can pull 20 Amps. A 7 Box or the pro systems can draw even more. That is enough draw on an alternator in a competitive class to kill your chances in heads-up competition. Hence running the alternator cutout switch, or loosening the belt to let is start slipping at the top end of the track to allow running on only the battery and hope it doesn't cause too much of a miss...
Sure, run your battery fully charged. But in some instances this isn't enough...hence the 16/12v dual-voltage batteries. The battery is drawn down during the run, requiring a higher initial voltage.
And the comments are correct, with a lead-acid battery, it is not possible with a conventional six-cell configuration to generate anything more than 13.8 at the start. When you draw from it, it immediately starts drawing down and affecting things... See above comments about dual-circuit batteries.
Then again, real racers run magnetos, right?
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As for ice chest intercoolers, yes, for dedicated LSR Turbo Cars that is more common than a FMIC. It helps with traction, and in some cases helps with plumbing as the turbo can blow backwards towards the cabin of the car where the water tank is, instead of going to a severely restricted front end (which is ideally restricted from letting in anything but the minimum necessary airflow anyway).
If you take a look at Oz's setup in his 280ZXT, you will see such a setup. No FMIC there! And when our 280ZXT is prepped, we have a legal radiator duct from a Euro-Market Car that channels all air directly to the radiator instead of generally all over under the front of the car...our intercooler will be in the passenger's compartment, and will be of the ice/water style for the above mentioned reasons.
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As I look at the panels, I see that these are really setup for more of a race-prepped interior. There are no provisions for the door handle or window crank. I am assuming that you've removed these on your car?
Tsk Tsk Tsk! Nothing a little work with a drill or RotoZip wouldn't solve.
Frankly, I like the "Blank" nature of the panels, because as someone with BOTH RHD and LHD vehicles, and knowing the panels are different between the two it would be nice to 'trim to fit as needed' a universal door panel, and not have tobodge together a patch for holes that are there that aren't used on one application or the other.
Anybody ever find a set of S30 Door Panels with proper Electric Window Switches stamped in them? These look perfect for that application. As well as the interior of my 73 ZT...
Watching this one till I get home. Looks like I have a phone call to make!
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How much are you guys who 'want to find them' willing to spend?
Forgive me, but talk is cheap. It would have to come as a complete setup, rockers, cam towers, ground cam, perhaps even as a complete head.
Are you willing to spend $1500+ for a cam setup alone, with no warranty? And that would be at a break-even point for the setup, not amortizing development costs, etc...
How about $3000+ for a complete head?
If not.... you are learning why there is limited aftermarket support for these types of components, as well as the parts that are quality, and are available, cost as much as they do!
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My car will boil out the carbs from underhood heat---well this is as much a function of heat as the gas formulations available today...when I'm running ERC or VP Racing gas, this doesn't seem to be as much of an issue. Anyway, it takes some cranking to get the bowls refilled to a level where they will fire the car even with the starter system engaged.
To alleviate this, especially in situations where my car has been parked at the airport for a couple of months and the battery is nearly dead, I installed a small Facet Solid State fuel pump in line between the hardline and the mechanical pump.
When I return, I simply connect the fuel pump to pre-fill the bowls. it has saved me 2X this year on a nearly flat battery allowing me to instantly fire a very slowly cranking engine and get the battery recharging.
I don't have it on a switch or anything, I'm usually under the hood to replace the coil wire and rotor that gets pulled and placed somewhere else in the car while it's parked... Not that I'm paranoid or anything.
If you hooked up a small toggle switch, you could fire it off and listen for it's pitch to change, signalling the float bowls are full and you are ready to start.
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I'd like to do something a bit different and I was thinking of possibly getting the MSA twice pipes make a "Y" joint for my turbo downpipe and thus splitting the exhaust gases.
Has anyone done this?
Since 1987...
The ubiquitous Trust/Greddy Header Exhausts were so everywhere in the JDM that when the Turbo Cars started into production, there was a pipe made to run from the Stock T3 turbo on a 65mm Diameter Downpipe, to their twin 50mm exhaust system (you know the one I always talk about being the copy of the Z432 System?)
I have had that system on my 73 240ZT since 1987, and have no issues with ground clearance at all.
So to answer the question, "Yes, Greddy/Trust did it back in the 80's"...
Allowed their existing product to have universal application, and flows almost as well as a 75mm pipe, without the packaging issues.
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I called this guy before when this was listed. He was not straight up and went against our agreed upon deal. Buyer beware.
Before I tried, and he didn't return calls.
Then listed them on e-bay two times now.
One of the 69's up there is not his, and has not been removed from the property as of yet, as said before, buyer beware...
If anybody is thinking of buying one of the 69's, get the VIN and contact me, I know the VIN of the one not his...
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No doubt diesels are more efficient, but the "most get 80 to 100 MPG" claim is a bit over the top, and misrepresents the facts of the matter.
Diesel Mini gets 65+ and if you slow it down even better. And it's a car I fit in comfortably... So it's decent, and possible to get 80mpg, just not at elevated speeds!
The old honda Civic VX (?) I think routinely got 65+ on petrol back in the early 90's...
And in the late 70's early 80's I was competing in mileage competitions with a VW Ghia that was getting over 52mpg in the contests, and close to high 40's in normal driving...
And that was air cooled, 1934 technology! Literally!
Roller rocker arms for Z ?
in Nissan L6 Forum
Posted
What do you guys think the returned frictional decrease would be at double that speed?
The eaten "Frankfurt Reply" was a discussion of "area under curve at a set lift figure" and boiled down to the supposition that if you have a head that is already ported to it's potential for flow, then the only way to make it flow 'more' is to somehow increase the area under the curve of the valve being open and flowing.
So it gets into the ramping issues Braap Discussed, as well as some modifications beyond the original design parameters wherein the cam towers are reworked to allow a split design, removing a lift constraint imposed by cam bearing diameters...
And in the summary I basically agreed with Mortensen that the application would not be a street friendly setup. It could be but it's not the focus of the development at this point in time.
There are places where something turning 9000+ rpms would welcome frictional reduction and the ability to have an agressive ramp on the cam, yet retain valve control with lighter springs.
I'll give you a hint: Driving in Michigan during December got nothing on the salt spray you encounter where it's envisioned to be used.
Well, I've gotten about 4 hours sleep in the last 62, and I'm about to go melt into my bed after taking a shower. And then get up to go to work in about another 10 hours. Sleep is not cumulative...