Tony D
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Posts posted by Tony D
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Tell the people who were put out of work at Diesel Technologies---the plant is shuttered in Grand Rapids, and the forwarding address is in S.C... I watched PCM-Bosch put their people in place, listened to what their stated reasoning was behind acquisition of DT from Penske, and watched them shutter the plant as technology was transferred to the N/A Operations Center in SC. If they didn't transfer technology, they sure as heck shut the plant down!
I'm not going to argue about it, I know people who lived the transition, and the technology Bosch Acquired is direct transfer.
It's no different than Atlas Copco buying up Chicago Pneumatic and painting their portable compressors white and red with the CP label on it.
Samsung introducing the Turbo-Air 8000 Series three days after cancelling their joint-venture with Atlas Copco.
Same as Atlas Copco did to Elliott in the 70's when they came out with their 'own' HL Series Centrifugal.
You can PM me, if you want to argue about it, there's no need to do it further in the thread...
And from this thread I realize I meant to say "53-Series" which is in the ambphibs... I crossed the 53 and the 60 series up in my head. I was out of that area of work by the time the 60 series was introduced. It was all 53/71 stuff, and in a jump forward, to some 92's and MTU Stuff...
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I'm going to blame you Mortensen!
My wife is going to carp and moan about me getting another firesomething...
But just talking about it makes me go 'I haven't bought one in a while...'
And printing my logic behind buying one reminded me there's not a real compelling reason not to right now!
I mean, I don't want to spend ALL my money on the Z's!
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The 'thing' about SS is more on the heat transfer side of it. Sure, it corrodes less than mild steel piping (chlorides will attack stainless, but that's another story...) but it retains heat IN the exhaust pipes, radiating much less.
Ever stick your hands under the hood of a N/A car with SS headers versus one with a mild steel header and you will see the difference.
Sure, it doesn't corrode, but it also helps with keeping stuff around the exhaust cooler due to less heat emission.
And if you get the hair...it polishes up real nice, too for that bling bling 'thing'!
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I got into a discussion on Shotguns for home defense with an 'uninitiated' person with small children around the house. He was set that he needed a 9mm because that is what all his buddies from Compton told him he wanted because he had '13 shots'.
1) Shotgun, 1ea, 12Ga, OO Buck. Pull the triger, and 18 .36 vcaliber projectiles go downrange. Just slightly smaller than 9mm.
2) You don't need to be 'spot on' with the aim in a high pressure situation.
3) The barrel is long enough, and the thing is heavy enough that a 3 year old will not pick it up, point it at his own face, and be able to pull the trigger.
4) If you store it with nothing in the chamber, just the sound will send anybody entering your house running. Everybody knows that sound of a pump-gun. "I have a gun 'CLICK/SCHLLLLLACK/CARRACK' get out now or I'll ventilate you!" rarely would get beyond the noise...
I like 45ACP. Call me old fashioned, but it was designed to knock down drug crazed Phillipinos during the Insurrection almost a century ago, and it works. The only reason we went to 9mm was because 'everybody else jumped off the bridge'...as tactical pistol re-evolved, the came back to where they were almost a century before. Slow, BIG bullet to expend all it's energy in a shallow cavity and knock something down.
Having to run with an empty chamber kind of sucks, and the double/single setup makes for that first shot without much ado. Especially if you don't have both hands free to operate the slide. The nice thing about a Tec9 was you could bang the bolt against the edge of a table to cock it...
And since owning an MP5 with all the tactical goodies is Verboten in CA...I'm stuck with my Police Surplus Remington 870 Pump, and the 45ACP Colt.
I liked my bro-in-laws Ruger P89 (?) kind of a flippy nose on it, but easy to bring onto target. The S&W in the same caliber I felt was much more stable. With a larger round, I'd go with stability.
Since doublestacked mags of high capacity went away, the width of the grip isn't much of an issue. Though I have big hands and liked the beefier handgrips.
As I tell my wife when she asks the same question as above: "It's not about need, honey. I want one, and because I can, I will!"
No more justification for anything including cars, polygamist sect membership, or firearms need be given!
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On gun safes, it wasn't until I met up with one of our distributors in Salt Lake City and saw the 'Fort Knox' gun safe brochure that I had even considered storing other items in there! I actually have a gun safe with nothing gun related in it. (well...) Computer Discs, financial records, credit cards we aren't using, second set of I.D. for the run to the border when end of times comes...you know, the essentials. The firearms are in a less expensive safe and they are there alone. ACtually the ammunition is in the Fort Knox, and the stuff that shoots it is in another. I had to beef up the joists in my house to keep it from creaking and slightly sagging where I wanted to put it. I wish I had a basement so I could place it on a nice concrete slab with proper anchor bolts. But I don't think it's going anywhere. But back to fireproofing, the Fort Knox is a fire brick like substance, same refractory they use in furnace linings. What it does it prevent the heat of a house fire from transferring to the interior.
It has a time rating, as I recall mine withstands 3000F for 45 minutes without the interior exceeding 180F. Which means plastic survives, most everything that wouldn't be damaged sitting on your dashboard would be safe in there. I doubt my house would take 45 minutes to burn, so I figure I'm safe.
After that point, it raises linerlay, so at 50 minutes you are at like 250, 60 minutes 350, etc... You can't get ridiculous about what it will achieve, but when you look at what the little fire safes proviude compared to what the Fort Knox Gun Safe provides, I was sold. $2100 later, and untold gallons of company-paid gsaloine (and about 1500 miles on the shop truck) and it was mine. Sure, there was a service call in SLC. That's why I drove. That's it! Big thing is most fire safes are trying to keep the contents below the kindling temperature of paper (451F), whereas gunsafes are trying to keep ammunition from cooking-off, and for that, they want a BIG margin of safety. The dehumidifier kit is simply a light bulb in the bottom to keep air moving through the interior. Diurnal variation can cause condensation, and THAT will rust your metal objects. SImply have it warm enough to be non-condensing and you won't have an issue. It, from what I know, is not from the refractory material. It's a closed room, almost airtight. If you open it on a humid day, and close it...as the temperature drops, it condenses. It's a matter of natural laws. A Dehumidifer/Desiccant bag will work, but it's finite life. How do you know when it's 'bad'? The dehumidifier/light kit just does a similar function through temperature elevation. Who wants to stick their sack in an over at 350 degrees for 3 hours every couple of months when you can just leave a 25W bulb on the bottom shelf burning. Hot air rises to the top of the safe, cools, sinks to the bottom, is reheated... Nice airflow pattern, and warm enough to 'desiccate' anything 'wet' that may have gone into the 'sealed environment' unintentionally (like that moist gunsock on the rifle from a day in the field...)
There is actually (gawd I'm admitting it) a nice technical paper online about fragmentation and fire prevention of small arms caches stored in Conex Boxes that was pretty interesting. Something about loading 350# of C4 into a container filled with explosives and small arms ammunition, and then setting it off in next to other containers to 'see what would propogate'... When you got time on your hands, you read. Alright? I had time. I read!
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Schlumberger sounds like a great place to build a work ethic. Kind of like where I got out of Engineering School and worked for four years in a sweat shop. Makes you appreciate working up the ladder.
Been there, done that...
NAH! This is something totally different. I'm talking lift design, hydraulic circut function design, etc...
What I do now is field service...commissioning, placement and siting of new equipment, overhauls of existing product base. No system design at all, nuthin! Mostly going and pointing out where people have done 'DUH' moments. This entire week I've been watching them refit every pipe associated with a new knockout vessel on the aftercooler to this machine. I showed up the first day and said "the legs on that vessel are too long, the flange doesn't line up wit hthe aftercooler!"
They literally didn't figure that out till they had the crane and the spool piece in place before going 'hey, this doesn't fit!'
I now fix what I would have been doing because of forgetting this parameter or that.
I got to look at a cratered A-Frame machine today. Rotor was spin tested to 115% for acceptance. Problem was governor failure allowed an almost 200% overspeed situation. "BOOM!" It's amazing to think an impeller can frag-out like that, and split a machined and bolted joint open. It's not what I'm here to do, but whenever someone says 'we got this break'...you can't help NOT going to take a look and help out.
So now it's up to microfracture concerns in the remaining items that didn't frag out. (The impeller that fragged normally runs at 52,500, you do the math!) The turbine didn't even reach first critical, so it's likely o.k.... save that the pin-trip (mechanical safety) didn't work. Someone is going to get a nasty letter over this breakdown!
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They give you total system capacity in the FSM.
Make a 50% mix, you put half the amount required of antifreeze. Anything left over, you top off with fresh water.
60/40 Water Glycol? 40% of the total amount of glycol, and top off the rest with water.
Incidentally, you really should mix externally and fill with your mix instead of trying to have the pump 'mix' it for you.
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LOL!
"Kits designed for professional installation"
I can see the disclaimers coming on the packages now!
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And I thought JeffP's was a tight fit in some places!
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Check out the link I posted...
Dual Float Bowls for fuel capacity on boosted cars...
And 63mm Diameter to boot!
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All those 'high grade' Aftermarket Vendors out there need to be very careful about dissing Megasquirt---here are a couple of prime examples of 'starter systems' where someone started with a Megasquirt, and eventually moved on to another system.
What differences / improvements / problems have you encountered with the swap, compared with the MS, Phil?
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Just a bit of information to ponder. Although the duramax engine is now being built by GM is was originally designed and built by the worlds leading diesel motor builder Isuzu in conjunction with Bosch. HB280ZT
Actually, take that a bit further, the "Bosch" contribution was the common rail injection system that makes the Duramax what it is (quiet, by comparison, flexible, etc...)
And Bosch bought that injection techonlogy. Acquired a small company in Grand Rapids Michigan that specialized in Diesel Technologies (actually, that was the name of the company), they were a portion of Penske. (Then they moved it to South Carolina and if you didn't want to move....)
Penske bought them from another company some years back when they acquired their heavy-diesel line since they are big in truck leasing.
The company Penske bought "Diesel Technologies" from?
DETROIT DIESEL/ALLISON. A.K.A.: "GM"
A lot of moving about, a lot of money spent, for GM to buy it's own technology from a company that bought their technology from them!
So much for GM not knowing how to build a Diesel. (3-63 was only 3 Liters, and was used worldwide for decades. It's still out there powering everything from remote power generation sets in the jungle, to boats, to small amphibious vehicles used by the USMC...they are close as bullet-proof a diesel as you can get, and can be field overhauled by a monkey with sticks and rocks...)
I love the old 63/71/92 series Detroits. But they're 'bad diesel' technology: Two Stroke. Baaaad!
I know of a guy with a 4-71T in a Toyota Minitruck...and he does 152mph+ in that thing!
Somewhere, I have photos, and video of just that... -
That's the nice thing about diesels, they run on detonation.
Mistime the injection pump one time, and see if this statement is true!
The injection event is precisely timed. Put it to a point where it is igniting before it should (uncontrolled combustion) and things will break in a spectacular fashion.
They use heat of compression to ignite direct-injected fuel. That's a far cry from 'detonation'.
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LOL!
gdv350ss post made me laugh. I had a new kid working with me, and he asked about the third day on the job "Are all jobs like this?"
I guess my answer of 'No, this is a prime assignment: you have a competent support crew at the customer site, they want to learn what you're doing so it won't happen again, and this break room is top-notch! No, this is a really good site. Usually they are a lot worse!'
When we came back from the field, he walked straight into the office and said 'I don't want to work here, this is not for me!'
LOL
I mean, it was hot & loud, but the oil mist in the air was gone...I mean, what? You thought you would never get dirty?
LOL
But I got to admit, Concrete Testing and construction in general is a bit harsh if you're not ready to work as he said.
You will find something you like, and when you do, get good at it. There are a lot of other things I could be doing...but really, I like what I do. Getting oil poured down the back of my neck, or covered in dirt head to toe...meh! I washes off at the end of the day.
You will make your path. If not at the first place, somewhere. Don't dismiss something out of hat before at least trying it. Sometimes the most unlikely things would snag your interest and rope you into something you actually like doing. You never know what it will be!
I would never have guessed it would be Air Compressors.
Hydraulics and Fluid Power? Yes. That's what I 'wanted' to do.
But air compressors? Never thought of that, never even saw it coming! LOL
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JGK, you should send JeffP an E-Mail.
He's running a GT53R and is boosting at 3400. Can't remember if it's a .82 or .63A/R turbine he has. And the 18psi numbers you are mentioning sound familiar.
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Nice to see something different once and a while.
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This will not be a 8 to 5 job sitting at a desk.
"Field Engineer"
Check out Google Earth, and go to these coordinates:
Lat 6deg 22' 57.86"s Lon 108Deg 23' 22.19" E
That is the most recent 'Field Assignment' for me. Matter of fact, that's where I'm at again in 7 hours (should get to sleep soon!)
Though I do not work at "S" either...
But I can say, I can not stand an office. Sitting in an cubie "designing brackets" for 6 months was enough for me, and I took the first thing that got me to the field. I've been there ever since. My boss is technically 'office staff' but at least once a quarter he takes a field assignment to get OUT!
You should like Field Work, especially if you like solving problems. There are downsides, but that is more if you look at it from the perspective of someone who likes to put on a tie and dockers and sit in a cubie 8-12 hours a day. For me, they're merely 'bumps in the road'...
Field Guys are designed internally with compliant suspensions so that 'bumps' don't necessarily affect their stability.
Then again, that would get into the definition of 'stable' and let's not go there, O.K.?
Like someone once said to me: "Dude, we're all 'broken'!"
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/Peggy Hill Voice/
"I did not know that!"
Cygnus posted: "Normal House crickets are blood thirsty carnivores. They will bite through soft human skin and if the subject is asleep and unaware they will drink their fill of the person's blood. They can not bite through tough skin as on the hands, but any soft, particularly moist skin which eminates the odor of blood within, is prime target for a cricket bite. Many thought this was an old wives tale till numerous crickets were tested, and sure enough they are blood thirsty insects. Also they are known to carry a number of diseases , so this is a matter that should not be overlooked in health issue concerns. Severe infestations should be removed."
Bintang is cooooold, Xander. This side of the island is MUCH nicer than Bandung. They even have cute girls here. It appears to be a totally different place than where I was last time. Google Earth will reveal my whereabouts: Indramayu Indonesia. When you look it up, you will see what looks like a refinery... Matter of fact, the roof you see at the following coordinates is the rain/sun shelter over the compressor:
LAT 6Deg 22' 57.86" S / LON 108Deg 23' 22.19"E
The hotel cabana I'm is can bee seen at:
LAT 6Deg 20' 59.76" S / LON 108Deg 19' 24.51"E
The foliage you see surrounding the cabanas is Mango Trees. They are everywhere, as Indramayu is literally "Mango City"...the roundabout nearest the room coordinates (just down off the bottom of the page depending on how close you zoomed to find my room!) has a statue in the center of it WITH THREE GIANT MANGOES ON TOP. Kind of reminds me of the 'Boll Weevil' Statue down south in the USA. Strange thing to see a statue of: Fruit.
This Google Earth thing is cool. I've been 'following myself' and marking compressor locations as I go along. Xander, you know my address, type that into Google Earth and you can keep track of goings-on in the garden. Last I checked, I could see my Red 260 2+2 in the back!
"Big Brother" indeed! LOL
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Do you have a carbon canniser on the vehicle, and a completely sealed and functioning EVAP system on the car?
If not, that is your problem. The early cars had a terrible EVAP system, and when you get the tank hot, it off gasses through the air cleaner once the crankcase is full of vapors.
Most cars have rotted vapor hoses, so there is not any integrity to the original system and vapors can get out nomatterwhere you go. You should be able to put several inches of water column pressure on the gas filler neck and have that pressure hold for 5 minutes. If it doesn't you have a leak and need to fix it.
When I redid my vapor hoses to the 3/8 and 1/4" conversion (from the 12 and 15mm hoses that were on there stock) both my 240Z and my son's 510 Wagon could hold 2PSI overnight. Neither of these cars reeks of gasoline after a hot shutdown.
If you plug the vapor diverter valve at the front of the vapor line in the car, and make a gas cap to allow you to pressurize the tank, you will be able to test it yourself and go from there. Alternately, you can use the Vapor Line to supply pressure back to the tank, and see if it holds.
If it doesn't hold for AT LEAST a minute or two---you have a leak.
My bet: You have massive vapor hose leakage. That will do it every time. It's pretty common. Especially with Z-cars this age...
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For towing you want a long wheelbase. It makes things a lot more stable in emergency situations. ... With your typical Z trailer hitch it attaches to the mustache bar bolts. I don't think I'd want to put a couple thousand lbs on those bolts. ... By the way I haven't tried one of those utility trailers, but I hear they're damn near impossible to back up because they turn so tightly.
I will mention that the 2+2 does seem to be better while towing the little trailer. I have made some pretty radical manouvres in that and it's been predictable and reliable.
My hitch bolts to the Bumper on the 280Z and is meant for the 1000# "Little Trailer" primarily. The other one is a custom hitch I made with the same 2" x .250" wall box tubing in a captive .375" thick end bracket that replaced my stock Datsun Tow Hook in the 'sandwich' between the stock skinny bumper bracket and the body. There is a secondary strap that goes to the rear crossmember behind the differential, but it's more a 'pushing' vector than anything with a torque moment to it. All it's motion is transferred through the A-Arm Bushings to the chassis down low.
I have had no issues backing the trailer...the key is to use one or two of those fiberglass bike whips with the flags on them to know what the trailer is doing when you don't have the toolbox on it. You either have to open up the hatch to see the thing, or put something back there that gives you a reference. Backing the trailer is actually slightly easier in the 'racing coupe' than the 'family 2+2'. I do NOT recommend the small-tired trailer, get the one with the 12" tires! On backing the little trailer...I have towed it behind my wife's Navara/Frontier, as well as off the back of my F250 Long Wheelbase Longbed...backing was not an issue with either of those, as long as I could SEE the trailer (which is nigh near impossible in most cases because it sits so low). The thing that helped me with the trucks was putting those whips dead center (well, just offset from the towbar on the trailer) on the front and the back, and painting one Flourescent Green. If you see the Green Pole (Rear Flag) to one side of the Orange Pole (Front Flag) you know that is the way the trailer is jack-knifing, and you can steer to counteract it. The biggest problem people have with backing is they confuse the directions in the mirror, or can't tell which way the trailer is moving until you're well into movement. With the pole, you know IMMEDIATELY if the wheels on the pushtruck are going in the wrong direction and can correct it before it gets too out of kilter. To stow the rods, either stash them in the car, or bend them all the way over the trailer and stick them in a loop you have for the purpose. It makes a nice prop for a tarp if you cover the trailer at night.
I came up with that for when it was behind the F250. Even with the tailgate down I couldn't see the trailer. With the flags on it, I could see it over the top of the tailgate no problem. I ended up breaking one of the rods doing something I shouldn't have been doing with it...so I cut them down to just under 4' tall, and stick them in the tool box on the trailer now. I have a little holder on the front and back of the toolbox for them, and it works just as good as with the flags on the opposite ends of the trailer.
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I'm with Zmanco, the cranking disable circuit on most Aftermarket ECU's is 300rpms. You can get a fuel injected Z to idle to 400rpms without much effort.
Cranking to get it running is literally a 'tick' of the key to get the first cylinder to fire in an EFI car. Basically one revolution, no more than three revolutions on some aftermarket systems to pick up various sensors.
But on the stock system, turning the engine over with a cranking voltage at the battery above 9.6VDC will fire the engine reliably and get it running at idle speed simply by moving the engine across the firing point on the distributor.
Cranking speed has little to nothing to do with it in an EFI HEI equipped car. It's not a magneto which needs a set minimum rpm to work the impulse coupling and self-generate.
It sounds like an internal short to me---something where it's not grounded, or a wire is pinched and turning it in a set manner kills the circuit.
Any L-6 Distributor from the same year will work (nissan/Datsun Product)
I'm not sure what all this fuss is about '79' dizzies. If it's an E12-80 with a black box on the side, just about anything from any Datsun L6 will work.
Even on the earlier stuff (75-78 for sure) 'says' this model year only...but really the pickup and etc all work with exactly the same values, and they all mechanically physically fit. It's just a matter of getting the wires in the right plugs to work with the harness in the car. And that's not a big hurdle, really.
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I had even thought about towing a 240Z gutted car behind my Turbo 280Z with the Wilwood brakes on it.
I wouldn't hesitate for a second on that, even with the standard ZX Brakes. It would flat-tow just fine. With a standard 280Z (77) it flat-towed a 240 on a bumper hitch (one of the 'universal kits' they tend to sell these days for 5mph bumpers) and that old Valley Industries Towbar from near Dover Deleware, through PA, up into Northern Michigan and then back down through Wisconsin and across I40 to California without any issues.
But that car had FULL synthetic lubes in the oil, I did NOT exceed 65 on that trip (honest! Except in the flat states...then it was upped marginally to the speed limit of 70) And when going through the mountians into Flagstaff, I slowed it down a bit.
Simply because I know the differentials get SMOKING HOT when you put a load on them. Normally on these trips I will drive 12 to 16 hours a day. On this trip I limited that to 10 to 12 hours.
I got the differential and tranny cooler/cooler pumps from Frank280ZX last time I visited him in Holland so I now have no such reservations about upping the speeds when towing the smaller trailer. With a flat-towed car, I would be conservative. Even at 70 I felt I was pushing it, but didn't want to block the semi's too badly.
An R180 towing an 800# trailer in 118F heat from LA to Phoenix will have a differential temperature of over 350F (hot enough to melt the plastic vent breather off the top of the diffy at least)! So towing for long distances/high speeds would necessitate an R200 at a minimum, and if the load was heavy, at least a differential cooler, if not one for the tranny as well.
FYI, the GT-R has differential and transmission coolers for the standard cars. Nissan knows a thing or two about putting power to the ground at speed. The diffy coolers I pick up were standard on all S130Turbos in Europe, and when the Z31 Turbo came out, they got both a gearbox and differential cooler. High load for extended periods needs a way to get the heat out!
And synthetic oils in those cases are gearbox savers!
But back to the comment, for a 1 or 2 hour tow someplace, I'd do it in a second with a 280ZX and a gutted 240Z. Without the coolers and junk. That's no big deal at all, and well within it's braking capacity.
JUST REMEMBER: unless you are on FLAT land, NEVER tow in overdrive! It will EAT that fifth gear (it's a good way to toast a marginal clutch as well!). I drove from the I275/I94 intersection outside of Detroit all the way back to California with a bungee across the console to hold the car in 5th gear when it started popping out. THe tranny was crap to begin with, towing about 1000# on the little trailer on that trip probably didn't help it any...
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In CA, the South Coast Air Quality Management District would be all over them for malfunctioning equipment!
They actually have stickers on the pumps with a toll-free number you can call to report malfunctioning equipment.
If that happened down here...you would be in an extortionists heaven! 'I'll not call the AQMD and report this if you guys give me a year's worth of free slim jims and coffee in the morning...'
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I had the wierdest experience today. I was on the jobsite and there are crickets all over the place. They were spraying water on the compressor to keep it cool and running, so the insulation blankets are all waterlogged, and crickets are everywhere... So leaning up against a beam, I feel one of the little buggers jump from the beam onto the back of my head, and then immediately onto my right ear, where he took a BITE, and then jumped onto the ground and scurried off looking for something more paletable, I suppose.
Has anyone else ever been bitten by a Cricket?????
Or is this some strange flesh-eating mutation of cricket found only in Java/Indonesia???
I've been bitten by many things, and I never thought of a Cricket as being a biter. Thing felt equivalent to the old horsefly bites I would get going down the river on innertubes back in Michigan during the summer. Suprised the hell out of me, that's for sure.
I figure he thought I was something to eat, jumped on for a taste, didn't like it and went on to find something he did like. But damn!
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This post just cries out for the following smart-aleck remark:
"And this is why New Jersey and Oregon won't let you pump your own gas!"
Sorry, man, I had to say it! LOL
Good to hear there was no damage/fire/spontaneous combustion.
"Gasoline, like blood, really spreads out further than you think the quantity spilled should!"
Did you push off to a safe distance and then start the car? 'Poof!'
Somewhere, I have photos, and video of just that...
T4 vs T3 and Divided vs Non-Divided Turbines
in Turbo / Supercharger
Posted
On industrial turbos on stationary powerplants, you will watch TIT and TOT for a differential to see turbocharger efficiency...