Tony D
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Posts posted by Tony D
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Not me, but a guy from the Navy whom we all referred to as 'the goat roper' gave himself a critical heart attack painting his Z Car using urethane and using no respirator.
Before he started painting he had put on new doors, but never closed them and I warned him that the strikers may cause an issue. He blew me off. Well, they took him away and we ended pushing his car out of the bay so we could work on our stuff. When I closed the door, it was plainly clear this idiot had picked up 2+2 doors and installed them on a coupe.
This is the same guy who refused to put jackstands under the Isuzu 117 Coupe he was working under, and just kicked them (6 or 12 ton big jobbers) under the rocker panels in disgust because the hobby shop people were 'wasting his time' pulling him from beneath the car to tell him he HAD to use jackstands. Kicked em under there and said all angry 'There! They're under the car! Get out of my face $#@%$#!" I ended up putting the tire he had pulled off the car under the rocker panel as well.
We were all working in the other bay (separated by a concrete block wall) and we heard BOOM-Scruuuuuuuunch-THUNK...."Help! Help! The fu*king car is on my fu*king chest! Help! Help!"
He had tugged on something, popped the pumpkin off the floor jack, the axle hit the side of the jackstand and slid down it till it laid the rocker panel on the tire and rim I had placed under the side of the car.
I think I may have saved his life. he had several cracked ribs, and did not argue about jackstands thereafter.
This was before he gave himself the heart attack.
When he came back form the Naval Hospital, he resumed painting...without a respirator, but 'Outside where the vapors can get spread out more while I'm painting.'
Some people, you just can't reach.
I wonder if the Goat Roper still roams this planet, or if he's Darwined himself into the mythological ether...
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Darn, I felt guilty taking a couple of hours this morning to dewater the ponds in the yard that filled up with all the rain... if I don't drain them, it becomes a mired bog that I cant drive anything onto for months.
And you guys are snowboarding...
Heck, I'm at work now uploading training manuals to the company server...
BAH!
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FYI, whenever I get an engine from an unknown source, I already have a pan gasket ready. The thing gets to my house, it goes on the engine stand for an inspection and cleaning. The top end is flushed clean and the cam components are cold-set to tolerance as well as cam break-in lube being applied. The thing gets inverted, and a similar perusal of hte bottom end is done along with sludge being cleaned out. Depending on what I find in those two places, I may even pull the intake manifold off and regasket it along with attending to the studs on the head that hold those parts on.
This is what I would do with any unrunning motor that I did not see running at one time in the past. Unless there is a seal on the oil pan for some sort of warrantee, that baby is coming off unless it's really clean (and not steam-cleaned clean...steam cleaned engines get the same treatment as they usually were poorly maintained while being run...hence the need to steam-clean them!)
In SoCal, I parrot KTM, around $500. Sure, you can pull on complete at a PYP for $275 if you know where to go, and one with a trans attached complete for $400 in some cases...but find it and be there before some group of mauraders comes to take the fuel injectors, or opens the valve cover and then leaves it off for who knows how long...
For an unopened L28ET (with a turbo I would not really rely on being good for any length of time...) yeah, $500 is a good round number to expect.
Sometimes, a car with a bad turbo is available for that price, and if it runs, that is a better deal IMO...but again, it's finding it and getting there quick enough.
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Loose Lips Sink Ships.
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In a Z? About -28F. In a VW Microbus? -50F
In a Jeep CJ10 Bobtail, between -58 & -65F, depending on what shift I was working.
These are ambient conditions--no pu$$y wind-chill numbers, real, actual starting temperatures BEFORE windchill is applied (which is pretty much irrelevant since you're indoors in the car, anyway.
Now you want to talk windchill... On a Ford Tractor, towing a 5mph maximum speed, into about a 30 knot wind, -65 AMBIENT---you do the math on the windchill...I have never wanted to know how I abused my exposed flesh that evening, I got stuck with the tractor once....ONCE!
Sometimes you drew the short-straw and got stuck with the ONE tractor on the deployment, other times you got the nice warm cab of the jeep...
I think Doung and I were just across the border from one another driving our respective conveyances... those diesel bobtails you simply didn't shut off...the just ran and ran and ran. Driving at -58F is a whole different affair than driving at -58F wind chill...
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What about the kits that msa sells? I heard all 2+2 owners have to do is get an extender pipe of 12"
I got an 18" straight piece of 2.5" pipe from the tubing section of Pep Boys, and added it in the transmission tunnel at the end of their intermediate pipe... I hung the muffler end, and trimmed accordingly so it fit nicely.
It could have been 12", but I got 18 and trimmed to fit to make sure I wasn't going back 2X because I might find out it was a hair over a shorter piece...
What I cut off may have been 6"...I don't remember. But all I did to make it fit my 260 2+2 was add that length of pipe to the coupe exhaust system they sell.
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As far as I know there really isnt a 2+2 spoiler. The normal BRE spoiler "ducktail" can be made to fit and it acutually looks really good, it just doesnt extend all the way to the outsides of the rear end. But like I said, it still looks really good. Go back 5-6 pages and look at jay28s car, he has one on his.
There IS a specific spoiler made for the 2+2, both in the IMSA style, as well as the original 'kick tail' BRE style. The 2+2 versions were moulded with different angles on the mounting portion of the base to accomodate the different hatch angle.
The smaller "BRE" style spoiler was an OEM fitment in Europe, and there exists different Nissan Part numbers for coupe and 2+2.
Similarly the 4 and 6" IMSA spoilers (the three piece ones that wrap down over the quarter panels) are / were also available in Coupe or 2+2.
Gokiburi, he he he...I know what that means!
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The wires are on the glass, and anything that rubs across or scrapes them can cause a break in the circuit, and defeat that line of defroster.
They sell conductive paint to repair the breaks, I saw it recently in a store and was amazed! On top of that, there is actually a procedure in the FSM for finding the breaks and repairing them with that conductive paint!
I'd start with making sure there is power to the grid, and then going from there. There is not much that can screw it up as long as it's getting power. After that, breaks are about all that can screw the circuit...it's not like it wears out!
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I would think a combination of a compression spring on the throttle cable, maybe a torsional on each butterfly or a tenstion spring on each 'triplet' along with a suitable reduction in mass of the linkage bellcranks to eliminate braking induced throttle movement, and all will be well.
Yeah, braking induced movement---the linkage will be moving fore-aft in operation, and I have seen cars with heavy shift knobs come out of gear because of inertia under hard braking...
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"What determines the lowest threshold you can run no fuel, no throttle while coasting in gear?? "
The buck on re-engagement, and the customer's tolerance for a surging or bucking ride.
A lot of this gets into flywheel inertial ring weight now, as you can move things around when you got a heavy flywheel...
Mileage Motors have HEAVY flywheels. Ones with THICK inertial rings. Then you can run real lean and not 'feel' the surge most people say the find intheir Z's with the aluminum flywheels well before others notice it.
This can go off on a BIG tangent, a thread all it's own.
I had a 69 Ghia that would get 55+ mpg back in 1979...but it was a pain to try and cruise with with the original 12# flywheel. We ended up putting a stocker back on, along with a Berg Equalizer (think 8# Thick-A$$ Harmonic Pulley on the other end...) to keep it smooth while cruising during mileage marathon competitions.
Feeding fuel on the top end after drop-throttle is merely a function to allow combustion to complete and not dump unburned HC into the Catalyst and overwhelm it. I have said it many times before: our engines are calibrated to run too rich for best fuel economy. They set 14.7 because it's optimal for catalyst function... you can run a LOT leaner and drop your emissions to near catalyzed levels on HC and CO, but your NOx number skyrocket. So then you pump a lot of EGR into the chamber to cool the combustion process down (or spray anti detonant like water---yes in an N/A you spray water into the intake...) and your NOx is reduced. I ran my 73 on a set of SU's clean to 83 Catalyzed Standards with nothing more than one header tube having an AIR injection into it (#1). Got 27mpg on the freeway at 65-70mph.
I was visually failed at SMOG.
I was forced to reinstall the EGR and Flat Tops.
I dropped to 19-22 mpg. I had (no exaggeration) 10X the HC and CO#'s that I had with the 71 Setup on tuned as I did...
At that time they didn't test for NOx.
My guess is it would have failed NOx if they did, given the way it ran.
Don't get me started down this path! Don't, dammit!
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Lifting the head is not really an issue with Nissan Heads like it is with Ford 5.0's.
more likely it's a partial failure of the head gasket under boost.
On the subject of 'when is it appropriate' I think it goes more towards what BMEP the engine is designed to operate at full time. The stresses of a stock turbocharged L-Engine is still below what the FIA engines were running in the early 70's, and those engines got a special non-crossflow head that had more of the 4 Cylinder L-Head arrangement for evacuating coolant from the head with large chambers between cyls 1/2, 3/4, 5/6 to a separate manifold that went to the radiator.
Same goes for the LY Crossflow head which took coolant off the head above the cylinders in pairs similarly to the FIA head, and ran it out to the radiator in a hose-sized manifold which contained the thermostat (it was not on the bolt-on casting on the side of the head).
I believe Nissan recognised that below a given specific output, the L-Head was totally acceptable in it's cooling characteristics, but permanently turn up the wick some more (325HP on the L24...) on an expected full-time horspower expected operation, and the cooling was not so great and so they changed it in purpose built parts specifically designed for that purpose.
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Wow, taking a 65 Corvair out there...
Should be 'Balls of Steel'!
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Curiously, since I have what appears to be an electric glass following cult here...
In the UK I noticed adverts for 240Z electric defront FRONT windshields for rally prep! How cool is THAT?
Just flip the toggle and the windscreen gets heated. I have seen one, and it's a laminate film, no 'lines'...
What I wouldn't have given for one on the LeMons car, so I didn't need to run the whole heater!
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LOL, the banner ad for 'Korean Cupid' shows up at the bottom of this thread!
Uhm...'no Kimchi for you!'
LOL
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I've a 1940 SMLE which is my main hunting weapon, the 10 round mag is good on feral goats, allowing one to bomb up the mob rather than having to pick out a few desirable targets, just slaughter the vermin before they get close to the dairy herd and start messing up the breeding plans
You've got goats that run free for the killin'?
Oooooh, I got to make vacation plans to go to NZ now, for sure!
I'm going to stop now before I get in trouble...
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Just concentrate on a good tight seal on the plates, and all will be well.
Really they need to be only decently tight...use the sealer for the small gaps to close fully.
Then, all idle air will be controlled through your bleeder block, and I lay money you will be able to control to well below 1000 rpms.
Even with some small air leaks in each bore (before sealant), as long as it results in an idle below 1000 rpms, all's right with the world.
Throttles that don't stick are more important. And with ITB's you really want a higher idle, for a better MAP signal anyways.
Ah, time to pack it in, I have to go convince my wife that a 454 Dually and a 23 foot enclosed trailer is not an unreasonable thing to buy because I can... Tough sell when she wasn't buying any of the arguments for the C20 Chevy with the cab-over camper...
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My dad would always carp when he watched Drill Teams using those white 'parade guns' as he called them...after they would pass in review doing particular tricks it was always 'all easy to do with those damn parade guns, try that with a 1903 Springfield or a Garand!'
My son snuk up to me this past friday and showed me a 'big barrel 'o guns' he snapped on his cameraphone...apparently Big 5 got another shipment of surplus Moisn Nagat 7.62X54R bolt actions delivered in decent condition and ever since he shot one at the range he's wanted one. For $54, it's cheaper than buying him that Hayden Fan and Electronic Controller he needs for the 510, he can spend his money on that crap! I'll get out cheaper buying TWO guns, one for me and one for him! What a DEAL!!!
LOL
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Stock ECU? No, don't even waste your time. The blowthrough is doable (the centrifugal supercharger setup I saw used this kind of setup, with an EFI TB and programmable EFI)...
Megasquirt is cheap, functional, and four barrel air doors are a dime a dozen on E-Bay!
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Gum, Varnish, or bending from sideloading.
The only way to know is to pull the carb, and clean it till it works. Disassembly will reveal bending.
They can stick and operate that way for years till someone finds the issue.
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Ahhhh, all is right with the world!
And my sheepal proclivities remain unimpugned!
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You mean like an A/N MS positionable "T" off the scavenge line at the pan.... (which was what I had in mind when I posted it, not necessarily returning it all the way to the pan. Not a big fan of unsupported fittings in runs of hose when it can be avoided.)
Tomato/Tomatoe?
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No flames from me, but remember both KTM and I live where only 91 octane pump gas is the best commonly available, and radiator level airflow temperatures can routinely exceed 120F on a sunny 85F day...
When you have 120F COLD water back into the engine with at best a 190 degree thermostat in it... (I have seen air inlet temperatures to the radiator of 160F on a 90-100 degree days!)
85F on a clear day in SoCal is more demanding on a cooling system than 105F in Iowa on a clear day (from personal observation!) due to Aerosols blocking so much of the heat inducing radiation that causes that hot asphalt thermal layer our S30's travel through.
heck, on winter gas last wednesday, my 260 started vapor locking in 85 degree weather. A quick check of my pre-radiator RTD (oh don't EVEN ask!) found my air temperature into the radiator was close to 120F!!!
So for many, the cooling mods aren't anything to worry about. But 'while you're at it' for a head that is off to get porting done...
Or 'while I'm in there' for a valve job...
Having some holes tapped and ready for down the road may not be that much of an expenditure...
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AMAZING! Raining in So Cal, and windows are all fogged up.
So I turn on my defroster, and realize the warm air isn't doing such a great job on the right window or the rear one...
Then I realized "Man, I've never tried the rear defroster in this thing"...
So I reach back while driving and reconnect the right spade terminal that is continuously hanging (visible in my wink mirror...) and flip on the rear defrost switch. Almost immediately the lower lines appeared clear through the fog...and within a minute it was clear which lines did and did not have a complete circuit any longer.
But I was totally shocked. It actually worked...and in my field of view all the lines were functional! Cool!
Not bad for a 1997 $125 Police Lein Sale vehicle (60K miles later!!!)
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People are nuts anymore. Putting a bomb at a bank. I don't get it. What will that solve. Senseless violence, I just don't get it.
Yeah, much worse now than when the Symboniese Liberation Army did it almost 40 years ago... (Who was that lady in Minnesota that was recently retried for her part in similar shennanigins...)
The more things change, the more they stay the same! Except the media is much more on top of it now that they have 24 hours of airtime to fill...
Hopefully those affected will come through with as little damage as possible under the circumstances.
Making my own EFI intake... The First Casting
in Nissan L6 Forum
Posted
er... not quite.
Though on my archive drive, I have found my R32 Service Manual!