Tony D

Jeff P already stated he has done the homework, the hardness of the lobes, the proper profile. Like he said, 'it has all been done before'... There are several cam grinders in SoCal that will grind a roller cam profile, and know how to do so. There are a couple that will even take the time to explain the process in detail. Including the steps needed to turn a Nissan core into a suitable core for grinding a roller profile onto it. Malvern Racing had roller cams and roller rockers available for the L-Engine. Dave has passed away, and his roller cam, roller follower information/developmental work was sold to a buyer on e-bay. The thread concerning that transaction is in the archives here at Hybrid Z. BTW, I don't see anything but red 'x' for the photos, so maybe they didn't go through.

I'll also add Clifton is correct in that you can size your compressor for the proper needs of the engine, or move your boost threshold around to get a 'properly sized' turbo dynamic. But if you have a high-flow unit for up high breathing, and a hotside setup for down-low torque---then setting up a bypass valve for partial throttle minimum flow situations keeps the thing working without having the surge issue.

Your throttle plate is in between your two pressure points. unless you are checking under WOT conditions, I would fully expect to see this on todays 'hard blowoff' bypass valves. See if you can get your blowoff to work to lift and relieve pressure under partial throttle, or even lift-throttle. That blowoff should LIFT and sound like a "sigh" at the slightest lift of the throttle. I know it's not in vogue to not have a hard-PSHHHHT!!!!-sounding blowoff, but that is what it should be doing. Partial throttle 'driving around' will cause a minimum-flow surge for sure...and that is really what your bypass (blowoff) valve is there to prevent. It keeps the minimum stable flow through the turbine to keep it out of surge. What you previously characterized as a 'boost leak' was actually what you need due to the flow characteristics of the turbo! If the backside of the BOV is tubed to the manifold, it should never have an issue with sealing under WOT or near WOT conditions. People think the BOV should 'seal tight' under all circumstances and this just is not correct. It's supposed to blow off at anything but WOT or near WOT. "Compressor Bypass" -- it lessens the load and keeps the turbo speed up for instantaneous boost once you go to WOT. It's a very misunderstood dynamic, made worse by the recent ricer movies that characterize the 'hard' blowoff noise as 'the thing to have'. Listen to the original Wangan Midnight movie made in the mid 80's and you will hear a proper 'sigh' of the BOV and release of pressure, as well as it doing the minimum flow function. BOV is a really bad misnomer. It's a 'compressor bypass valve' and should be 'leaking' if it's doing it's job. If you don't have one that is tubed on the backside of the diaphragm to hte manifold, get one...the others are a compromise...as you are finding out firsthand! Because it's not venting, you are seeing the pressure rise on the discharge of the turbo, while the throttle plate is partially closed (throttling...) and you are running into the problem because of it. If you don't have the issue under WOT, and don't have the same readings under WOT conditions, likely the I/C is not your issue... inadequate venting of excess flow during times of partial throttle or low flow is... You may want to move your wastegate reference back on the turbo discharge side of the manifold as well, as your wastegate is not opening under these same conditions preventing the overspeed of the turbo causing the upstream pressure rise. G'Luck!

They have a Web Page with a lot of information on their efforts. They are a nice group of guys. "It's nice to see another Z up here breaking records!" kind of introduction. They are running in the 3 Liter, Blown Fuel Modified Sports class. if you go to the SCTA website, you can see their record run speeds in the miles... like 215, 218, 220... holding and still accelerating at that speed. They have gone over 220mph in that car in some other classes. The SCTA Archival site is kind of gone, so past photos are hard to find if you didn't download them when they were available. And those are all on the archive drive at home, or on the other laptop. Otherwise our 2+2 photo would be up there...it's floating around on the site someplace. I just don't have access to it, and someone may be hosting it elsewhere other than the old SCTA-BNI site. And that's not a long front end, BTW. Stringfellow and Kirk stretched their 14 feet in the cowl section between the a-pillar and the back of the front wheel well!

The guys at DC Water Jet broke another record at over 202 mph during Speed Week this year (8/08). I think this photo bears some scrutiny for what they have on it compared with what the Aero Testing Revealed. From the prior records on the fender you may or may not be able to see that this car has gone 221 mph in the past... Real speeds verified and registered. It's kind of shocking when you look at the car in the light of what the testing revealed. I mean, this car is going a good 30 (to 50!!!) mph faster at Bonneville than our slicked-up 2+2 with a G-Nose and the light covers, blocked radiator inlet, and full belly pan. They are running this year in F/BFMS, which is 3 liter (F/), Blown (, Fuel (F), Modified Sports (MS)...which MS is the class you run in with a 240-280 that has non-stock body mods, after that all the other stuff should be self explanatory in the class. So take a look at what they are running and comment as you will.

Not really our 2+2, but DC Water Jet finally broke the record at over 200 mph (202.743mph on 8/08) and WOO HOO! This is their car... Low?

FYI the windshield is the same on all the S30/S31 vehicles, so you don't need to specify a 2+2, the coupe will work fine in your application. There is a small technical difference on the windshield gasket for the 2+2, though, in that the channel for the pinch weld at the base of the frame is slightly wider to accomodate a thicker sandwich of metal. This difference is minimal, and using a coupe gasket has never caused me any issues, using plenty of soap as lubricant they slip right in and seal perfectly in every instance I've used them. Shipping Glass in an international crate, you may want to consider buying several windows at a time, the crating and shipping cost will be roughly equivalent for 5 as it will for 1. Increases your chance of having an undamaged one to go straight into your car as well! Insure the shipment heavily. I saw someone in Maryland (I believe) that was shipping auto glass for 510's, he was a glass dealer...you might check on e-bay for that seller. Good Luck!

I believe he carpeted it, and the gas tank may have been up there as well Ala VW Beetle... I forget.

Some people have said for years to concentrate on the turbo and EMS... The stock bottom end is far more stout than everybody gives it credit for...the problem is with detonation, not durability of the stock parts. Keep detonation away, and they stand up suprisingly well for a suprisingly long period of time!

My Toyota bud got wood when I linked him to that photo. Apparently that is a one-year only Toyota Celica Liftback Panel, JDM rare as rare can be. He even sent me catalog references and part numbers! My comment 'wasn't that the same tail light panel that was on the Liftback I ran into the Seawall and we took to the scrapyard for the engine-blow the next weekend?' He was not amused...apparently my recollection was correct, and apparently I trashed an uber-rare Toyota Part in the process (Had I known it was Nissan-Compatible with such a cool look I probably would have kept it!). Meh, Toyota Parts! I think our Bonneville 280Z 2+2 looks pretty good... Especially the one photo of it passing mile marker 3 at the flats going 170+....

Now it looks like a ZX inside, or a 2+2 S30 with the rear seat removed.

Original Crown Conversion worked fine with a Single SU, on 2.4L engines at least. Biggest issue with the old-tech was no wastegate control. At about 17 psi (and rising) on the Corvair the jet size was small enough even with a retapered needle that detonation dictated water injection (non-intercooled). With a wastegated turbo as is now available, and a retapered needle (or even a reworked jet diameter to flow more fuel, and another accomodating needle) yes it's easily doable for reliable results. But the above statement about the Holley is a good point. And the availability of a Megasquirt makes both issues kind of a 'Why Bother' moot-pointer, eh? No doubt about it, a Four Barrel on a Bug with a turbo is a menacing beast. My highest boost level with the similar setup was around 25...that's when I found out what 'case savers' were intended to do: Keep the heads attached to the block. Did you guys know you could actually blow a head off a VW? Up to that point, neither did I...

Ya know, JeffP once thought a 7000 rpm redline for his turbo motor 'would be more than enough'..... Once these things get going, especially with a cam and some forged pistons it's suprising how high they will zing, especially in the lower couple of gears. I would say 'yes' it should be O.K. But realize that the distinct possibility exists that the engine may be bumping against the upper limits of the design quicker than you may think. Below 8500 the distributor setup for the TEC was rock solid and never gave us a problem. There may be the possibility that the 'old' system we had on that car may make it into something street-driven of mine simply because of the ease of retrofit. Once we went above that limit as hinted to by EMotive in their manual, it got intermittent issues, and nothing we could ever trace down to anything other than that setup. It really depends on what your EMS calls for in the way of resolution. I know 1FastZ found out about upper rpm limits really quickly with EFI...I think one of the first things I asked him after he fired off his Megasquirt System in the Silver car the first time was 'Do you have Forged Pistons in this?' Soon, he found out why... "They rev so easily!" LOL Plans are plans...sometimes your foot and your plans don't coincide and you find out 50mph+ in first gear pulling Lambos up an onramp is good sport! hehehehehe! Hey, the appeal for a street driven car for a drop-in replacement is great. My wife's 260 has a 280ZXT CAS setup waiting to go into it for a MS-Se retrofit, more for a 'fuel only' upgrade really, but since I can drop-in a CAS and get Spark Command why not?

Truest statement of the bunch. I gave up counting years ago. JeffP did not, he keeps an anal record of anything he has bought directly relating to his car. At last total, it was over $75,000 on one car. Understand, like many people have said, "$3K this year" or "$15K this year"... These cars, barring an incident with a Mack Bulldog, or other similarly immovable object are remarkably persistent. Persistence means longevity. Longevity means protracted projects, and continuing expenditures. Taken in relative terms, Jeff's $75K really only represents say, $3500 a year for slightly over 20 years. I have to admit it is something like that for me and I'm sure for MikeK as well, save mine is spread over many more cars and projects...all of which are incomplete, ongoing, or otherwise not 'cover of Sport Z Magazine' type lookers as many here are... Asking what it costs up front is subjective, it's more 'what do you want from it'? And put the budget forth from there. It all depends on what you have available and what your finances are... It could be a little. It could be a lot. There is really no telling. All I know is, for the sake of my wife, I stopped knowing any concrete numbers, as if I revealed a detailed accounting as JeffP has done my wife would wig out. As a monthly total, it all looks much more sane: "Meh, I only spent $300 this month, honey!" Yeah, and 600 the month before, 1500 next month, and nothing during December... But over the course of a year, or ten.....it grows to a staggering number you never want to know!

I would love to contact the guy, but I can't get through to E-Bay as it's a restricted site. If anybody has e-bay access, you can maybe direct him to this thread, and send him my e-mail (in my profile) so he can send me a ping, and we can go it from there. I'll be stuck here and whatever they did to my computer to make it access this network, it now won't go to the Hotels unrestricted network, and 'system restore' is not doing the job of rolling back to previous settings, so I'm stuck watching from the sidelines! I am in So Cal (Riverside), and I should be back in the area before (gawd willing) the end of the month to come and personally pay the guy a visit. If all meets expectations, I can come carrying cash and bring a trailer to take it away the same day! Hell, the other day when I saw this I could ping the ad and at least see the photos, now all I get is a 'Grey Screen' telling me "SAMIR Restricted Site, Access Denied"... SAMIR: "Societe Anonmye Morocaine de L'Industrie du Raffinage"---things are frustrating here in Morocco right now! Rather be there to follow up immediately!

Datsun 1200 Ute.... gaaaarrrrggggggh! Stick it in a container and send me one! My wife would be confliced over that for sure!!! 30+mpg AND a ute bed to haul the hay bales for the animals... An 'easy sell' if I ever had one. Put some shiny paint on it so it looked decent and the boy would be sullenly driving the Y2K Frontier to school instead of the Ute...which I'm sure he'd prefer!!! LOL

Uh....loads of documentation aside (all which shows it as an S30...or more appropriately an "HLS30"...) What on earth would make you say it's 'actually an S31'? Not only is it decidedly not an S31, I can show from the photos right off hand half-a-dozen easy and definitive clues supporting this: 1) S31's did not have the gas tank sending unit access hatch in the right rear of the cargo floor. 2) S31's had a full sized spare compartment, and a standard 60 liter tank. This car has the North-American Market tank, as well as a space-saver spare tire well. That rules it out as a Eurospec 260Z (RLS30) as well. 3) S31's did not have the (Removed) metal garnish/finisher on the rear apron between the body and the bumper. 4) S31's did not have the door reinforcement present in this vehicle. 5) S31's did not have the license plate holes in the position of this vehicle, and if you look closely you can see the S31 pattern holes are neither reworked, or have never been used (perforated) from the factory. 6) S31's were a JDM-Only model. This car is obviously LHD, and therefore could not be an "S31". Speaking as someone with two S31's, and who has owned half a dozen of them over the years, I can most definately say this car is not, has not, nor ever will be 'An S31'.

Don't know about that, as a former winner of 'best paint' as well as a three-time 'Overall Best of Show' winner I think he has all the bases covered. You are commenting on a car in primer...which may have won 'best in-work' this year. (I don't remember, anybody?) The bodywork looks fine to me, even in primer. If you have a problem with the styling, that's one thing...but the bodywork from my firsthand inspection was pretty sound, same as on all his other cars. Last year he brought a 240 with a complete 350Z powertrain in it, as well as most of the 350Z interior in it...seems he comes up with stuff different every year. Speaking as someone who's projects take...er..."Forever" (and I'm talking now going on their second decade in some cases!) seeing a guy that turns out a completed, or almost completed car---to a very high standard of finish and functionality every year, year after year will not get me chucking stones at his work...that's for sure! The guy is an electrician, he does not have a 'shop' he is not 'in the business' these are his cars, or stuff he does for his family members!!! Styling of the body aside, the car worked and drove, and he ran it at the autocross the day before the show. Considering the car had it's own hydraulic jack/rotisserie to make it pivot on it's own axis for the show display...that says something when it was all done in less than a year!

You will change the map signal compared to the barometric signal it gets when originally fired up. I think the foam dual layer in a larger oval filter on the extreme end of the trumpets would work well. Herve Oulette had TWM ITB's on his 'Silver Elegance' and had a clamshell filter that clamped over his trumpets. He simply removed it when it was being shown. Let's face it, when you're driving down the road, you want an effective filter. When you're showing the car, spend 3 minutes less polishing the rocker panels on each side and remove the filter and stow it under your sweater under the gas tank at the rear of the car. Stick Racquetballs connected with weedwhacker string in the trumpets like a real Hilborn Racer and just lie to the gawkers 'Sure, I run thataway all the time, just plug up the stacks when I park. Haven't had a problem in years!'

BAH! SAMIR is blocking all my E-Bay access. It's like they expect me to work while I'm in their clutches! LOL Hope I have internet at the hotel this evening, this one will be revisited for sure!

Wisconsin Discount Stereo! LOL I guess Crutchfield put them out of business. That is funny. Someone who buys my VW Bus after I die will find a similar trail. $23 for a K-Mart Battery. Those were the days! LOL

Thank gawd someone understands the English Language and used "Mooted" in the proper context. I swear if I saw one more person say 'your argument is mute' I was going to go climb the tower and go on a killing spree! My last Fairlady (The ZX) actualyl came form my WIFE! She was driving the 75 2/2 RHD to work one day, and someone approached her and said "Hey, we got one like that in the back yard (RHD), it's a 280ZX though, do you want it?" My wife came up to me (and believe me, she was eating crow) and said "You're not going to belive this, but...uh...er...someone wants us to GIVE us a Fairlady 280ZX." And to her suprise, my response was "Give us a ZX huh? Can they send me some photos first, before I go over there to look at it?" I mean, it was a "ZX"...what did I want with a ZX? LOL She wanted it, though. It has A/C and she knows I don't want it, so it's 'safe' for her. I won't be modding it or anything... So it sits in the back yard. Untouched. Still. But I gather parts, and some day, when time is in surplus I guess I will get around to it! LOL But SHE brought it into the back yard. Kinda shot her 'if another one comes in, one has to go' edict. She wanted it when she saw it, and then had to justify why we should break the edict she herself had imposed, and that I had been complying with for some years! Once it was dropped though, the number went from 18 or so to 32 relatively quickly in retrospect...

Should anybody forget the wonderful SHO powered Festiva? Not dual engined, but right along the spirit here at HybridZ. I always thought, since I'm more of a GM guy myself, that a Supercharged Buick 3.8 V6 powertrain would work exceedingly well in a Geo Metro...same concept Renault R5 on steroids. Gives you Hemmorohids... From eating Altoids... Made from the hooves of cows! "I digress"---blame it on Frank. The French have warped my mind here... But back on topic (kind of) anybody that was at MSA this past year saw the mid-engined 240Z with the V6 Maxima Engine in the back. From there it's not that much more work to add another... And that was not on any 2+2 platform! A 2+2 I figure would accomodate Olds Toronado Drivelines. I know they fit in the back of a VW Bug... Two would work nicely and the cable shifter for the Autoboxes would not be that difficult to work out at all. And like the Hyundais with two engines, you can always disengage the linkages and put one tranny in "L" and one in "R" and see what kind of zer-radius smoke show you can produce!!!

We started having issues on the TEC2 unit using the Electramotive "Small" ring in the distributor once we exceeded 8500 rpms...just as Electramotive said we would. For cam trigger, as TimZ says, the distributor is a perfect place for it...it's basically only 'return' signifying where #1 TDC is---and that window for tolerance is pretty wide. Basically any time before #2 in the firing order is ready. I'd be shy of using the Dizzy for actual timing if you are considering higher revs. Our system was directly off the spindle, with a mag pickup through the vacuum advance hole reading the 60 toothed ring normally found on the crankshaft. The small diameter (from what EMotive explained) was the source of resolution errors in the processor at elevated engine speeds. For a street engine it may be acceptable below 8000, though. We were fine to that range. Above that, however, we started having sensor errors in the firing, and I'm convinced it was due to the gear lash in the sensor letting the teeth 'rattle' as they rotated causing trigger errors.

I replaced my vapor hoses with 3/8" fuel line and have noticed NO degradation in venting/filling of the gas tank. I used Nylon 15 to 10mm barbed reducers (much like the standard pieces Nissan Used) at the tank, to do the conversion. I have the 15mm vapor hose in about a 2" nub out of the tank, attached to the reducer. Advantages: No big cost for the molded vapor hoses, and easily replaceable with standard fuel line available anywhere. Tested vapor integrity to 10psi while pushing out a big 'oops' dent in the tank from a big rock... I used some 1/4" lines on the boy's 510 Wagon when we did his car, and the advantages of them is you can fit three hoses through one hole, and bacically put a heater-hose blockoff cap over the remaining holes in the rear floor to cap them securely. All invisible. The only pain was that you have to seal the big 15mm hole to a 3/8 hose coming through the floor. I used heat-shrink tubing over some molded plastic reducers I had laying around. Don't know what they were for, but they were 5/8" on one end, and had step downs to 1/8"...I just cut accordingly and stuck the 3/8 line through and sealed it with the heat shrink to keep everything secure. On the boy's 510, we actually elminated the vapor tank...primarily since it wasn't there anymore... That system I pumped 5psi into and didn't find a single leak. No more raw gas vapors around the car on a hot day! Woo Hoo. Seems the gas doesn't 'go off' as quickly once it's capped up good and tight! I digress...