Tony D
-
Posts
9963 -
Joined
-
Last visited
-
Days Won
74
Content Type
Profiles
Forums
Blogs
Events
Gallery
Downloads
Store
Posts posted by Tony D
-
-
An Advert, but has good Toyota Links attached:
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=260169081178
This article claims Toyota's First Dry Sump:
http://www.scionlife.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=108454&start=0
-
There is no 'drivability' issues from having your injectors in the throats of the air horns! Key is to have the injectors impinge on the wall at about a 5 degree angle just before the throttle plate. That is what Ford Testing showed.
Of course, backfire issues keep them from doing this on most current Port-Injected engines. Anybody remember the HO 5-Liters tendency to immolate because of pooled fuel due to an ECU issue? They used two standard Bosch 45# injectors on their TBI setups...
But I digress. Your drivability will be fine with the injectors further away. What the injectors do close to the intake valve is improve low-speed emissions through the vaporization of the petrol when it hits the back of the valve.
If you go to the TWM Induction site, you will see now they have standalone supplementary rails that allow fueling from the ITB Throat/Airhorn area now for most of their setups. It makes more power, but most OEMs will keep injection between the closed throttle plate and the intake valve for that backfire safety factor. Practically speaking with a backfire and the injector out in the air horn you can have a bad situation happen if you don't immediately open the throttles to 'suck the fire out'---which is kind of counter intuitive for most drivers. Of course if you are in a properly designed metallic airbox, you can greatly mitigate the backflash issue. This all assumes N/A. On turbos airflow may dictate that you keep each injector somewhere in each respective runner simply to keep fuel from being blown off course. Many JDM apps had injectors mounted in the firewall side of the plenum shooting down the runners for the L-Engine---but I'm thinking they had a diffuser at the entrance of the plenum to keep velocity air from blowing straight across the fuel streams. HKS is good for making something that looks like it blows straight into a plenum, but in reality goes within a concealed chamber and is passed out into the main plenum through a complex diffuser setup.
-
I can see it being a combination of both. Perhaps an crank driven oil pump and a remote filter pickup location.
A remote oil filter is a far cry from a Dry Sump! There are several combination of Wet-Sump systems available for the Nissan L that use external oil pickup from the oil pan, remote filtration, cooling, and entry to the former oil filter location on the side of the block. They are still using the sump to store oil and engine to drive the oil pump internally.
Generally Dry Sumps store their oil in an External Tank, with a conical bottom to allow constant flooding of the oil pump with oil regardless of cornering G's (or for that matter in the case of aircraft, which way is 'up'!) ensuring the engine will run with an uninterrupted oil supply. Generally the pump is mounted externally from the engine, with the OEM pump being blanked off. The pump will have several stages of suction that will evacuate the engine crankcase of slung-off and used oil, and then pump it to a de-aeration tank (which may be the same as the holding tank). From there it goes to the main pumping section, then off to filtration-cooling-engine uses. Some of the stages may be dedicated to turbocharger oil supply separate from the engine supply.
In any case, I'm highly doubting the Previa has one. I'm getting some feedback from my Toyota Buds that it doesn't as well, and that TRD offers a Dry Sump for the engine in their competition parts catalog. So if they are offering it as an aftermarket setup, then it's probably not got one OEM.
That's my update on the Previa Engine Situation...
-
It goes back to having undercar integrity.
No matter what exhaust system you have on there, if you have holes in your undercarrige from lack of maintenance, corrosion, etc, you are at risk.
If you have a standard tailpipe exit, add any sort of rear hatch or light gasket seal to that list of possibilities.
By exiting at the rocker panel, you eliminate a complete set of intrusion possibilities.
There's no should or maybe about it.
Directly under the car? Doubtful anything would be coming in the rear gaskets as well, leaving undercarrige integrity as the only issue to be addressed. Unless you are stopped in traffic for extended periods...and then, your neighbors on the road will contribute to your toxic in-cab environment as much as your own exhaust will.
Safety Inspections have been proven to do absolutely nothing statistically for decreasing mechanically-related accidents.
Emissions Inspections, on the other hand have been proven to decrease pollutants measured in the controlled area.
You are better off with Vehicle Emissions Inspections than Vehicle Safety Inspections...and in this case the same could be said.
-
Percussion works a lot better if it's heated red hot...then it goes like butter if you slip a small pipe over the end and grip it on the pivot point in the vice.
That's how I did mine!
-
Buck up and make three passes, dude! Then you will know what you have on the monster frankenmotor...
Airflow is limited by your Z32 Turbos, whatever the guys on the Z32's have seen maxing out airflow wise will probably be near your maximum.
Then it's a port flow comparison between Z32/KA/L that will tell you loads.
Do you have the adjustable gears on your cams? If so, you may be able to tweak the camshafts for optimim usage with what you have.
Otherwise, more lift and depending on how the engine is pulling now slightly more duration and you will have a real puller on your hands.
Stock on a Neo RB25DET was in the 250 HP range, more or less depending on year. That was at .5 Bar if I recall (around 5-7 psi). Wheel HP was slightly less, but easily back up to that by the time you bumped the boost a bit.
I don't know that KJ ever took his 71 down to get the results on his 3.0L RB Conversion dynoed. Even in 2.5 Guise, it was a stout runner with a single turbo!
-
Your shifter lever is either in backwards, or you are using the ZX one...
use the original 4 speed shifter, and it will move back to the center of the shifter hole.
Or take the straight shifter you have, and heat it with a torch and bend it so it resembles the 4 speed shifter you removed.
The later ZX trannies have a shifter lever that has a radically different bend to it than the earlier cars. You either need the earlier lever installed, or to bend the later shifter lever so it fits correctly.
It's exactly what Globerunner said. It's the shifter bends, not the placement of the tranny. The levers are different. Someone just used the later shifter lever in an early car. Bend it, no biggie.
-
Bob Heckendorf just finished shortening his axle shaft 0.500" on a lathe after I linked him to some Bonneville guys who shortened their shafts much shorter for use in a Streamliner.
If you are really concerned about the compression binding, you can shorten the inner axle shaft on a lathe using carbide bits, but the interrupted cut, combined with lack of good old White Lead for lubrication makes for a busy day changing chipped cutter bits.
Bob's inner axle shafts look OEM now, just 1/2" shorter. This is for a 280Z that he is doing a V8 Conversion on, and which is lowered so the binding issue...even axle installation was difficult. Now it's like a normal height installation, and limit straps are in place for droop.
He mentioned that at this point of shortening, the spacer near the inner circlip needs to be recut and fit to the new length so the spacers and drive dowels don't go where they're not supposed to be during full droop. This may be a bit of paranoia on his part, but better safe that sorry.
I don't know if he took any photos during the process, I'll e-mail him and find out if anybody is interested.
-
Pricey minimum I see, not sold at $232...
Just looking at it the seller should be able to have discerned the thing was from an early 280Z (up to 6/76).
The later tanks do not have the '1/3-2/3 bulge' so pronounced.
If you are looking for one in the future, that is they type of look you want. The later tanks are much 'thicker' on the 'thin' part of the tank, by about 1/3 more, about twice as thick as the tank shown in that e-bay ad is.
-
There is a reason safety inspections require solid piping all the way out the back of the car.
Sure enough there is! Midas Muffler has a big lobbying effort in states that require safety inspections!
Seriously, it's more important that the car's underside not have a bunch of holes in it than the engine have a tailpipe all the way to the rear of the car.
Running the stubby to the rockerpanel will clean up the airflow and result in less CO Intrusion possibilities than running an exhaust to the traditional rear exit point.
Unless you are sitting in traffic unmoving for extended periods, the straight dump under the car should have no interior intrusion issues. And even then, the vehicles around you will contribute a bunch to the CO level of the ambien environment.
I have a CO tag from the local Cessna Supplier (Aircraft Spruce) hanging from all my rearview mirrors ever since I bought my first Corvair and VW 30+ years ago. They don't change... but a meter? My suggestion is not to look at that meter sitting in traffic on the 5, 91, 710, 405, or 110 freeways in LA during rush hour...you WILL see it move, even if YOUR car is SHUT OFF!
-
An intake tube from an N/A Z31 makes for a VERY nice intake elbow to your turbo. That is what I use on my 260Z. I clearanced the left inner fender slightly, and used a torch to seal one hose barb on the Z31 inlet pipe, but it screwed right up to the stock L28ET rubber inlet boot, and fit through the radiator bulkhead---giving me the added luxury to install the Z31's inlet silencer box (kills all that nasty turbo inlet whine) as well as allowed me to use one of the BIG K&N Diamond-Shaped Z31 Inlet Filter on it. And if I ever get in a pinch, I can always get a stock Z31 Inlet Filter and stick it on there!
But that plastic N/A Z31 pipe has one other advantage boys and girls: it won't trransmit engine room heat to your inlet airstream like those bling bling shiney aluminum ones will!
-
Head looks like raw casting, what I thought was a cut-back si-bronze vavle guide was due to camera shake blur and rust on the stock vavle guide.
Looks Unported now that there is a decent photo available.
-
And now I show this thread to my wife...who was thinking I was insane for wanting to make a belt-driven centrifugal supercharger for the Minibike!
She now realizes there is a complete subphylum of diseased individuals for which forcing more air into engines is something that they 'just do because'!
What got her was the Cat Photo. She realized it was the same sled her dad has back in Michigan, and since she has run it around a bit and knows it's characteristics...and knows what the Turbo Z runs like compared to her N/A 260Z...well she put 2 and 2 together and came to the 'Diseased Sub Phylum' Conclusion.
I concur, what about you, doctor? LOL
-
I would have to agree the $6K is a tad high, my quotes for the Corona Conversion (66 Toyota Corona with a VG 30 ET conversion...don't even ask!) were in the $2500 complete range.
Riverside Muffler runs a 9" on their 240Z, and they have been running solid 9.40's at LACR for probably the last 10 years.
For a dedicated drag car, you don't need the complexity of the IRS. If the car was really really really light you may get away with it, but even in Japan in the late 80's they had converted to 9" Rears to get reliability on the Drag ZX's. Though many cars ran the IRS well into the 10's...that being said, they also had an almost unlimited supply of spares as well. Piles of broken Axle Components were a common sight at Fuji Raceway at days' end.
-
From what I can see, the Previa Engine is Wet Sump.
-
I figured...
I just wanted to punctuate about the cheapest way you could make up a drysump.
Guys with Chevys can do it CHEAP. Most of this stuff crosses no problem (tanks, pumps, coolers, etc).
The A.R.E. and Aviad pans for the L-Engine just don't show up on E-Bay for some reason... And those will cost you dearly new!
-
any NASCARS in your junkyards?
Don't know what that is supposed to imply, but I thought I made it perfectly clear that searching E-Bay for NASCAR cast-off parts is a place to get whatever you need cheaply.
So I guess the answer to that question would be 'Yes, there are NASCARS in my junkyards...right here at my fingertips via E-Bay!'
For instance:
-
The 911's are dry sump but the oil pump is inside the crankcase, so not the easiest thing to adapt to another car I'm guessing...
Kinda why I'm suggesting NSACAR spares... The stuff in the 911 is pretty much set up for that engine bay. The NASCAR stuff is standard Aftermarket stuff that is decently sized... the tank is going to be in the passenger's footwell anyway, so why use the odd shaped Porsche stuff (which, BTW is not easily cleaned...the aftermarket stuff is! A prime concern when reusing oil system goodies!!!)
-
I mean, for all it's worth, why not buy used NASCAR stuff of E-Bay? Much better quality and you can get rebuild parts reasonably enough.
What is the impetus behind Dry Sump?
"Dry Sump on a Budget" is kind of an Oxymoron.
-
Looks like the valve guide boss is cut back, and with the color looks like a si-bronze replacement....
Possibly.
-
Got hit the other day by a CHP using LIDAR. Coming down a 6% grade at 88mph. Gave him my info and he got halfway back to his patrol car, turned around and said "This is your lucky day. I just got a high priority call. Slow down."
I got tagged in my Bus on the 57 Northbound just south of the I10 Overpass one early morning, heading to the Pomona Swap Meet. CHP had stopped beyond me and walked back to me along the shoulder. As the cop is looking at my information, a side by side Pantera and Corvette BLOW by me at WELL over 120. Open Exhausts on both of them, I swear! Cop literally THROWS my info back to me and says almost the same thing: "Small Potatoes, slow it down! Have a nice day!" That have a nice day was yelled as he was jumping OVER the hood of his car to get back to the driver's side, and he was GONE! Sprayed the front of my bus with all sorts of Debris.
Yeah, like he had a chance in hell to catch up. They were over the crest of the hill and into San Dimas by that time. And I'm sure they BOTH saw the CHP in front of my bus, and judging by the exhaust note did NOT decide lifting throttle was conducive to their license retention strategy. I figure they ducked down one of the next exits at the bottom of the hill and left the CHP wondering 'which way did they go-which way did they go?'
-
Actually, when he asked the speed limit, and then he responded with a definate range that 'was in excess' kind of limits what the cop can realistically write the ticket for... almost universally cops have a digital recorder running during a straffic stop, and if you deny any knowledge, they are open to write whatever speed you want. But if you state a speed, it becomes very difficult in court to defend a 'spontaneous utterance and admission of guilt'... Sure, if he had said 'It was 35mph, and I was going 35' it would be easy to know that the driver is mis-stating the obvious. But by saying he knows it was 35 posted, and that he was going 'around 50' he's admitting 50mph or thereabouts, and makes it very difficult for a ticket for 70mph (especially paced on a twisty road) to stand up in court should the ticket go that far.
But the old standard cop questions "Do you know how fast you were going?" is a clear fishing expedition for someone to lock-stock-and-barrel incriminate themselves...at that point it's best to keep your mouth shut. Or do what the cops do: Make Declarative Statements to be recorded on their digital recorder which will be taken at face value in the abscense of any other evidence to impeach them.
I have a Digital Recorder that I keep with me for notes on a jobsite...it's a matter of flicking it on when you get lit up and saying the date and time and quickly giving a synopsis of what you were doing "10/28/2007 1700hrs, just got lit up by DPS while going 45mph on Oro Grande Road Eastbound" and then just letting it roll during the traffic stop. Same thing the cop is doing. But when / if you go to fight any ticket... you can really help your odds by questioning the cop to know if he used a PVR to refresh his memory while writing his report after the fact. If he did, your PVR recording is likely to carry as much weight as his, and if he's clearly fibbing, you can usually get off really lightly if not scot-free from the offence.
The Yellow Speed Limit signs are also a good point, it's a cautionary speed, not a solid speed. I got nibbed in missouri by a cop trying to nail me for 81 in a 45 because I came up an off ramp at freeway speed. I told him sitting in the front seat of the cruiser that if that was what he was going to write it for, that I WOULD be back to fight the ticket, and that he should clear his calander for the court date, beause it was a yellow sign and not a white-and-black, meaning it was only a suggested speed, and not a (what california calls) prima-facaie speed limit. He wrote me for 81 in a 70 instead. Which was still B.S. but after that I refused to trust a Ford Speedo in ANY Hertz Rental. Matter of fact, I bought a GPS so I could verify the speedo before setting my speedo. I had told the cop "I know you guys ticket above 77mph, my speed was cruise set to 77, why would I set it at 81? I got all day to get to St. Joseph?" Which was the truth! Yeah, I was intending to exceed the posted speed limit by 7 mph...and I'd take a ticket reflecting that...but 81 in a 70? I was all set to fight it until I realized the fine was like $35 (and not the $200+ like in CA) at which point I said: "Meh!" and moved on... But I wasn't going to suck on an 81 in a 45, noway nohow!
"ironic though. getting pulled over for SPEEDING in a bug with 40hp with a top speed of 70mph. I kind of miss that bug, but having the z is a whole new adventure."
On that note, I was driving my 62 microbus (supposed to have the same 1200 as the bug!) up US23 south of Tawas Michigan when the Iosco County Sheriff pulled me over for 65 in a 45 up a hill. When he came up to me he says 'I got you at 65 coming up this hill back here!'
My response:
"IN THIS?!?!?!?!"
He stopped for a second...pushed his hat back slightly...kind of mumbled 'Yeah, you're right, I think I'm going to run the cal again. Have a nice day!' and went back to his cruiser!
Of course I had a dual weber 2110cc engine in there at the time and could bury the speedo at will... but the incredulousness of the reply "IN THIS?" must have been enough!
A stock 40 horse in a bus is maybe a 55mph vehicle with two people in it, 65 with a tailwind. Uphill? Hell, I could usually back up a hill faster than I could go up in 1st because it was a lower gear!!!
Ahhh, VW's. Good OLD VW's! LOL
-
Actually, with the information gleaned from the recent Wind Tunnel Test...that car would be an interesting design study as-is!
-
I just bought that E-Bay Kit by stopping by Troy's Store. MSA was out of Precision Weatherstripping Kits, so I bought the same kit from Troy (Too Intense Restorations) for $30 less than MSA wanted. I dropped it in Holland for someone, but from what I saw the kit was far better than the Trash I got from Long Motor Company (Now Black Dragon Auto) in the 80's... What can I say, old impressions die hard!
I was told the ONLY part not in that kit was the riveted on rubber pieces that go on the front of the doors. The kit Precision sells now is supposed to be 'Universal' 240-280Z.
My kit came WITH weatherstrip adhesive (Good 3M Black Adhesive)...I was amazed it made it through TSA Inspection!
The Windshield and Hatch Glass BOTH used the stainless steel trim strip, so it's exactly like the OEM in that regard.
I bought this kit from Too Intense Restorations on October 2nd, so my information is indicative of his current stock. I would not hesitate to return and buy another set. Matter of fact, for the price I probably will! LOL
Arizona ZCar Stainless Steel Valves - Help...
in Nissan L6 Forum
Posted
Big Valves on a stock bore doesn't do a lot because in many cases the bore side shrouds the valve inhibiting flow.
Dave Rebello has been doing extensive research on stock sized valves and has them flowing pretty well...in many cases in a stock bore close to what many of the slightly oversized valves will!
Really though, 1.5mm Radially should not make that much of a deal with head gasket sealing...though overboring would unshroud the valve quite a bit! (Think L28 Valves in L24 Bore).
You may be looking at another set of valves in stock size just to make it fly without eyebrowing the top of the block. You can always run the 90mm bore head gasket, and eyebrow the block heavily down to near where the first compression ring runs. If you saw what we did to fit that E88 Big Valve Head onto the L20A bore block we are currently running in the Bonneville Car...