Tony D
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Posts posted by Tony D
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Thanks for that Braap, I have posted a blurb on "Machinist's Quandaries" in the other thread saying about the same thing.
The reward is the process, as the goal is set so high.
When you set high goals, failure is a noble effort.
When you set middling goals, failure or success is...well...mediocre.
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Some people have a problem grasping a Machinist's Quandary.
Why does a machinist make a round ball captive within a cubic form?
Why does a machinist make a chain from a solid bar stock?
There are countless Machinists' Quandaries out there, and the reason to do them is always the same: To do them.
The thought and engineering that goes in to the front end of the Quandary is the reward. It makes the machinist think, actually think about what the project will need to be brought to fruition.
I said it elsewhere, this is not a narcissistic trumpeting of his accomplishments, but rather an informative blurb on what he is doing , and why.
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Appearing Next Spring?
What happened to the Marines?
Oops!
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Someplace there is a photograph of that Bronco II surge tank cut apart. it may be at Zcar.com I don't see anything in my 'favorites' but someone cut one apart and marked up the photo really nice so you could figure it out.
Seem to recall they found the part number, went to the junkyard to find one to cut apart, then satisfied it would work, bought a new one. That scenario was what I was basing my recomendations on in the past. It will be a bummer if these parts are going to be NLA... As you can see it's a nice piece.
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On a side note, during shifts I seriously doubt it's going to have the turbine energy to keep it spinning 'at full boil' unless you are talking about ignition retard (two-step or antilag).
If you drop all restriction, and bypass the compressor so it's in a 'vacuum' the decrease in wheel speed is MUCH different than if you are actually pumping air. WRC Cars do use retard, but that is because they are 'flat shifting' at WOT and using pretty sophisticated ECU interactions to control the ignition to turn the exhaust manifold into a gas turbine combustion can, powering the turbine differently than when on normal boost. You are actually engaging in combustion in the manifold, not in the combustion chamber...
What we are talking about is a 'lift throttle' situation where turbine energy is decreased, and at the same time you drop pumping air on the compressor end. This allows basically a 'free float' of the wheels with very little deceleration, if any.
If you alter timing at the same time, you would need far less retard because it is operating in a 'bypass' as well as 'free field' mode of compression.
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I know of only two TC24B-1 heads that I have personally seen, and laid hands upon.
LY heads, as Alan has mentioned, are much more 'common'...if that word applies.
Seen several of them, turned down the opportunity to buy one for $1000 in 1988 (D'OH), and have a line on three new in box, never been used complete examples that I will be heading to check out very, very soon...
The LY is just too cool, and when it comes down to it, is an OEM head with OEM reliability, and OEM R&D Testing behind it...giving it a 'leg up' in my mind over aftermarket offerings.
Then again, adding to my list of Z-Car Blunders the declination of the LY Purchase was BY FAR not the worst...declining to buy a 432 in 1985 for $3200 using the logic of 'I can get anny Fairlady with a Two-Year Inspection on it for $1800, what makes that one worth 2X as much?!?'
Then, adding insult to injury, I find out the car in question (again offered to me as a TRADE for my 73 240Z straight across) had a Grand-Slam GT-R 2.2 Bore-Up Kit, a set of Mechanical FI cams, as well as several rocekt boxes of spares to include another engine (complete)...well....coulda woulda shoulda... I had already filled out my Governmental Shipping Documents in Triplicate and there was NO WAY they were going to believe I mistakenly put down 'HLS30-156466' that many times as a 'mistake'...
Same guy still owns the 432, and I still own the 73...
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Bleah! They put the North American Steering Wheel on the thing! BLEAH!
Otherwise, nice car, GS31, ZL. But that steering wheel needs to go!
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Most industrial guidebooks say that anything more than 20% EG will effect heat transfer, so on stationary compressors or other equipment in closed-loop systems we will try to use water with treatments when at all possible, and no more than 20% E-G for maximum heat transfer/inhibiting.
Drewguard from Drew Chemicals will inhibit corrosion and make a nice, tanish phosphate coating on exposed metal that prevents bad corrosion, but I don't know that it comes in anything but a 55 gallon drum!
One thing EVERYBODY should do, is test their coolant with a Litmus Strip. You should be slightly basic (above 7.5) Usually 7.5 to 10 is what you will shoot for... If it's below that point, it's acidic (duh) and will exacerbate the dissimilar metals (alunminum / cast iron) issue as well.
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i would wonder however why it isnt running a low 12 second one with all these "super mods"
Sniff, Sniff, I smell Jealousy at someone's DETT project firing up and running...
On the accelerative mass issue, the responsiveness of the engine is directly related to the weight of it's components. What should have been done in conjunction with the weight reduction of the pistons, was an equal reduction in the crankshaft counterweight as it does not now need such a large overhanging weight to 'counteract' the stock weight.
The pistons are 150 grammes less than stock, and of a stronger material. It is possible that this setup is more durable than stock!
It wouldn't be the first time material thicknesses were reduced without any effect on overall part longevity...and I can point out in some bearings where superior metallurgy was used to greatly reduce thicknesses of races with absolutely no reduction in B-Life.
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Yes, I was serious, kids broke out a window and a tom cat used it for a love nest, spraying liberally. It has been airing out for years, and STILL stinks like cat's p...
That is an interesting intake/engine setup. The Fast Idle for the A/C is unique, and totally a different setup than my car which was less than 1000 cars later down the production line. I have a stepper motor for idle control under the T/B, and no cold-start valve. Verrrry Interesting!
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Wow, Nissan jobber price was only $146 not a few years ago.
My understanding is the 432 Grilles are gone, but the other Fairlady Z grilles are still available from most any Nissan Dealer if you give them the part number..
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Like I said, it only takes proper controls!
Once the turbo is up on the boil, there really is no reason not to dump excess in copious volumes rather than let it slow and re-spin to optimum speed. The throttle response on-boost is much better doing it that way.
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The GRS30 in basic form is actually very close to, if not lighter than a US Coupe of the similar Vintage.
My 75 GS31 weighed in at 2695# with my 255# butt in it. Do the math, and there are some pretty suprised HLS30 owners out there!
That's with the full ZS interior in it, including spare tyre...
Like someone said, 'they aren't as heavy as you would think'
Of course, I don't have door beams in the door. Oh well, I'm more careful turning left across our US Traffic as a result (since it's RHD!).
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One thing Corvair people would do is trim those pinchweld flanges. Working on the Z, you can see statistical designing and manufacturing processes firsthand in the small pinchweld flanges. On a Corvair it was not uncommon to cut 20-30# from the Unitbody by trimming the pinchweld flanges (Marc Natale said he cut 33# of metal out on his 67 Monza that he ran up at Willow Springs, black car if anybody ever saw it in the 90's)...some of them are 1" WIDE! Mmmmm, production variation. When they were welding the chassis with Oxy-Acetylene, you could see the guys using very little rod, and using the longer pieces of the flange to melt down and become filler for the shorter pieces in the stackup. Other places would grind down the pinchwelds until all pinchweld pieces are even, and no one component is higher or shorter then the other, then they weld them. I really didn't see them cut the Datsun flanges down that much if at all...maybe a mm or two. On the Corvairs some times you would use a Sawzall and cut 1/2 to 3/4" off a flange, and then go back and weld it because some of the spotwelds were out on the far edges of the flange---imagine that in regards to flex! Nothing irritated me more than to see spotwelds on the EDGE of the flange, half on the metal, and missing one,two, or three panels of a four panel sandwich! Argh!
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I coated the cc and piston crowns at the stationary powerplant I worked at, because I had money in the budget and was curious. Decreased engine fuel requirements a noticable amount, and was still there, 8,000+ hours later. Matter of fact, I ran that engine for 24,000 hours without a valve job, and taking valve recession readings on the 1000 hour valve adjustments got the OEM interested in doing that kind of coating from the factory. Only drawback was there was no way to clean off anything deposited in the field, had to go to a walnut shell blaster (this was 1990's) but that probably wouldn't be an issue now, the stuff is readily available. Noticed some oil temperature reduction on some of the 'splashback immersion probes' in the oil system as well, so the heat was staying in the combustion chamber...on an automotive engine that would translate to quicker spool. In my application it translated to the wastegate being open more...hey, you know you're running a Turbo when the wastegate is 125mm, and the exhaust pipe is 24" before your catalyst, and 36" afterwards, going into the muffler! LOL
Natural Gas Lean-Burn engine running 22:1 AFR with rock steady 1100 degree EGT, 24/7/365 @ 22 PSI Manifold Pressure, 10"Bore 10.5" Stroke, V16... Not necessarily applicable, but the N/A version of the same engine ran EGTs in the 800's.
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Is there any other?
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Are those Raised White Letters I see on the tires? Holder back of information! LOL
Nice setup. Now, for that electric 3" cut-out pipe and a stubbie exhaust out the passenger's side behind the wheel....or the driver's side....as long as it's straight out from the turbo it sounds so....nice! LOL
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Then things get really tricky because if you mess up your tuning at 18-20 psi with a metal gasket, something has to give. As Tony said, usually it is pistons.
With a metal head gasket, no o-rings, and 8.39psi of boost on the dyno, without ANY detonation being heard, JeffP sunk five sets of ring lands on his expensive forged-piston 3.0L.
With a Metal Head Gasket, or an O-Ring, you can make pistons go away, and never even hear it!
Hence my suggestion to everyone when they get a Standalone "just learn to tune it on a stock engine" before they start putting money into parts. A blown stock L28ET makes a great donor core for your big-dollar buildup. With another $450 and a junkyard motor you're back on the road learning!
Coincidentally, I did see a guy blow his megabuck motor on a dyno, go out and buy a 160K mile ZXT engine from the JY...reinstall it with all the other engine's externals, and then 'just because' ran some dyno pulls on it just to see what it would do. 450HP at the rear wheels, everybody looked at each other, then they turned the boost down and said "Let's just be conservative till the other engine is finished"...He's the guy that told ME to build up the externals first, learn to tune, and once you have the formula down, build your big$$$ engine last, as everything external will still bolt right on! It's not my original thought, and it just made enough sense to me that I parrot it as well!
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The key to the AFM Readings is it doesn't go to 'infinity or zero'. Jumping around may make the ECU go intermittently up or down, but only in a very steady state condition---like right at highway cruise. My 75 does that, right at cruise the engine will 'shut off-turn on-shut off' if I approach an open spot in the AFM Trace reeeeealllly slowly on the open road. I can do it free rev by bringing it up slowly as well...right about 2275rpm it will go into an oscillation because the wiper arm has worn through the resistive trace right at that point and when the ECU sees 'zero' it shuts off pulsewidth. Conversely is can go 'full fuel' going to the other extreme. But unless I am cruising very conciously at that speed, it won't do it. The car runs so damned well otherwise, I simply sped up 3mph at cruise, and it never effects the car. So even with an 'open' in the sweep, the car will be functional unless the AFM flap is held right at the trouble point. Usually it's sweeping so fast it's more of an averaging thing. The ECU in the car is like 8mhz, while even most cheap DVOM's are 100mhz in scan time, so many times while you may 'see something' on your meter, in practical terms the stock brain will not register it at all becasue it's so much slower. The important thing is 'not zero or infinity' on the tests.
A Diagnostician gave me a tip that has panned out well: If you have a FLuke with Min/Max/Record, hook up piercing probes in the lines you want to test, start the car, turn the meter on and set it up for Min/Max/Record, and just go for a drive. On many of these components, a "Zero" or "Infinity" reading is out-of-range and indicates a failed component. After your drive, before you shut the car off, take the meter out of the Min/Max/Record mode and recall those values. If you see "Zero" or "Infinity" you have a bad component, period. Replace it. The 100MHZ Scan rate of the Fluke 87 is faster than all of the Stock ECUs out there (was at the time at least) and will pick up very small defects. While my example above of my AFM is technically a component that I know 'is bad' and should be replaced...this kind of test will reveal an 'intermittent non repeating failure' while driving the car that may not show up during bench testing. When I did the test on my AFM it indeed 'failed' by showing the "Open" (Infinity) reading, but the car did not buck or stall at the time because I swept across it so fast the ECU didn't pick the glitch up that time. The Fluke recorded it, though.
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When I was in Liverpool last year, it was 99p/litre for diesel.
Gave my 'driver' 60 L for his Mitsu SUV for taking me on a pilgrimage to Wrexham... Couldn't be in the area without visiting 'The Demon'! LOL
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O-ringing is fine and there is lots of info about that here. O-ringing the head without building the rest of the motor is like repairing a rock climbing rope with a single strand shoe lace...
O-Ringing in this case would have resulted in blown pistons, ring lands, or skirts, instead of a $60 Gasket! Get your tuning down on as stock a setup as possible so you only break things like a cheap head gasket. After you get it tuned, then put your money into the block.
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I've always installed the Turbo Oil Pump/Drive Spindle as a unit. The dot and marking on the pump will mae it lline up when it goes up into mesh with the crankshaft gear.
The only time I don't do it that way is when it's in a running engine and I'm inspecting the oil pump. In that case, I pull the distributor cap, put a big rubber band around the rotor to hold tension on the gearmesh so the spindle won't drop, and I pull the pump. Make note of theangle the slot in the pump drive is at, and get it close before reinstallation.
To then install the pump, then stuff it up there and give a twist each way till it seats, then in go the bolts and torque it down.
Mind this: don't be pushing up with all your might putting that oil pump in there, push it up gingerly till you fee it hit, then give a slight rotation to get the drive tang on the spindle to fall into place. If you are pushing up too hard, friction will simply turn the pump drive shaft, and you will never get it to line up!
Usually, a 15 degree twist one way or the other lets it seat fully, then turn it back so the bolts line up and have at it.
Good Luck, let us know how it goes.
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This makes my RB twin cam head onto RB30 block swap look real easy!
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Yes, with a stock cam and setup that is about right, depending on altitude. I don't figure much elevation in the UK... I am at about 700-1000 ft above sea level to get the 35 kpa at idle.
Our Bonneville Car, on the other hand, idles around 55-60 kpa...a bit more cam there! LOL That one uses an alpha-n map 'blend' software mix to get it off-idle smoothly as with MAP based only, and all the throttle area we have, a simpl cracking of the throttle will flood the engine as it immediately goes to 100!
Timing is usually 1 psi per pound of boost on the gauge. Some places more, some places less. All depends on what you find when tuning, and hte octane available where you live/drive. For reference the old Corvairs ran 24 total advance at 5-7 psi, and my old N/A distributor was set to run around that same point at 10psi. So it is possible you can run a lot more advance below 10psi than you think, and then start retarding the spark above that point. All depends on what you find. The Megasquirt Stickie on the board has a bunch of maps on it that you can take a look at to get an idea what other people are doing---that will reveal many similarities especially if you lay it all out on graph paper and write the bins in to correspond to your kpa readings...you will see the scaling makes more of a difference than each individual engine does. For a stock setup they are all pretty much about the same.
Head cooling on cylinder #5 - solutions?
in L-Series
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I don't know the conductivity number. It is related, but you can get litmus strips cheaply and it gives a good indication of basic/acidic.
A conductivity test will tell you about free electrons in the water, something that can effect corrosion, but it can be either basic or acidic...of course free electrons with a basic solution will not be a real problem, but excess free electrons in an acidic environment will cause runaway corrosion!
The tests go hand in hand, and NOBODY should be running their anti-freeze more than a year or two, regardless of what the litmus paper says!!!