Tony D
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Posts posted by Tony D
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For the record it costs me .37ish cents a gallon and I produce 250 gallons at a time.
What is your base stock. You are not considering the fuel costs and fuel used to produce your base stock.
Don´t be fooled into thinking what an individual can do economically because of discarded base stocks is in any way sustainable in a larger mass/consumption environment.
I would make 500 Gallons of Ethanol at a time, and the only way it was economically viable was the tax refunds I got by mixing it with gasoline to make my own gasahol.
For a realistic economic model, you have to consider the fuel costs in the original base stock of the fuel...and when you do, the 1.25 gallons to one gallon produced comes into being.
If your base stock was some naturally occurring substance that didn´t take electricity or other power input to refine to useable fuel, the cost of .37 cents would probably be a valid number. But if it comes from a commercial source and it´s reformulated waste, the oil cost of production is a lot higer that one would think...regardless of processing costs.
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Realize the latest ploy for smogging all cars EVERY YEAR 8for vehicles older than 15 years old) was simply to RAISE MONEY so they can BUY AND CRUSH older cars! That was the STATED purpose of making people smog their cars EVERY YEAR.
It´s been shot down with heavy SEMA Action this year, but I know it will be back like perennially elected greens who care more about control of the populace´s movements, than really cleaning up the air.
Stricter Emissions Requirements for Personal Conveyances won´t cut it...they need population growth to stay within their charted projections (2.2 million illegals in 10 years skewed the BAR90 Predictions terribly, leading to the newest round of restrictions), and those vehicles that are registered must be kept within compliance. But Stationary Emissions, and large emmitters are more of a problem now...trucks, trash vehicles, trains, ships, and Airports along with Fast Food Fryers (believe it or not!). Till they go after those, there really is no reason to go back to POV´s. Some Fords withthe Englehardt Catalysts on their RADIATORS clean the air simply by driving through it...because until they clean up the air the engine is taking IN, they can´t lower the emissions coming OUT! The engine is actually putting out CLEANER air than what it´s taking in! Such is the state of emissions technology on CA cars these days!
It´s not cars, but it´s an easy, disorganized target that politicians can use to satiate their green constitutients who would rather we all live in the city and ride bikes everywhere...and live - marry - die within a 15 mile radius of the same spot. Not for me, thankyouverymuch.
And don´t think ýou don´t have emissions testing´ it´s coming. New 2008 and 2010 EPA regs will leave only seven or three states without some kind of emmissions testing program. Once they get that to ALL 50 states, they will move for a national emissions program for ´standardization and lower costs for all involved´ mark my words!
It´s coming. Open your eyes, guys...it IS coming!
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Chevron has it...they want you to pay taxes.
When they legalized home use Ethanol for Farm vehicles, you had all sorts of paperwork you had to fill out regarding taxes. Unless there is a tax exemption, you can´t legally produce it for use on PUBLIC ROADS.
Similarly, you can not grow tobacco for sale to others, nor Peanuts either....
All comes back to taxations and regulation.
There was a gent in Berkley that got nailed by both thye Feds and the state of CA for tax evasion. Fine plus taxes due on fuel burned. And since this guy was a proud environmentalist, and had documented every mile he head driven, along with fuel mileage, they had a very nice Article Five Waiver of the Constitution for calculating their fines!!!
He was nailed for almost $10K in fines, plus that much again in Fuel Taxes Evaded! It´s Federal 24 cents per gallon, and State of another 18-20 cents... for 1000 gallons burned a year in an older Mercedes, you taxes can easily add up to $500 annually.
Biodiesel is a joke, it takes about 1.25 gallons of commerically produced diesel to produce one gallon of biodiesel. But everyone feels better about it for some reason.
BTW, this guy in Berkely wasn´t brewing his biodiesel, he was doing the much more direct `put vegetable oil in the car and run it´approach. He was buuying from the local Costco in 5 gallon tins, and paying roughly 35% more than commercially available diesel!!! Curiously, Costco´s cooking oil revenues have gone up 22% in the past three years...
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I run R4S on The Blue Turd, as well as my Fairlady Z 2/2...GREAT pads when used with a GOOD fluid.
I brought four sets of R4 169 Shoes with me here to Amsterdam for Ad to put on his Shelby Mustang GT350´s in the Spa 6 Hour Endurance Race. They performed flawlessly...and others were eyeing the American with the `Southwest Airlines`totebag full of Shelby Shoes!!! LOL
I have nothing but good things to say about Porterfield, their counter service is WELL beyond stellar. We mis-ordered the shoes we needed, got 239´s instead of the 169´s. Bought them back in April before MSA. They sat in my storage container and I brought them back for exchange the day before I flew out...no invoice, just a phone call asking if I could... They are a great outfit! Brought in three boxes of 239 Shoes, and Swapped across for the 169´s... Wonderful not to deal with the hassles like most other places.
Some people may feel the R4S will ´squeal`during light braking on the street, but I live with it...or simply stab the brake harder to quiet them down.
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The key in processor power is for the coil on plug drivers, guys. The batch fire really is all you need unless you are trying to comply with some stringent emissions requirements at idle, and lower speeds.
But if you have the processor speeds to handle coil on plug firing, then you have the same power to do it with the fuel as well, so why not.
But you will see minimal gains with it, really. It´s an ignition/driven change, more than Batch Fire being unsuitable for anything.
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What you can do is simply buy thicker lash pads, and then take them to a machine shop to be ground down to proper thicknesses. If I were in a remote portion of the world, that is exactly how I would do it.
Ingersoll/Rand Centrtifugal Compressors use a similar setup for setting up clearances in their machines, and I am constantly finding machines hops with magnetic/chucks and a surface grinder to make final clearance adjustments to our `bulk shim stock` which is supplied with each overhaul kit...in .375 thcknesses (even though normal finished thickness is around .120)
Check to see if you have an industrial machine shop with a surface grinder. If you do, use the feeler gauges to measure the thicknesses you need, and then have them finish grind them all to the thicknesses you need. They can do it in a day easily. I get 9 shims cut to at least three different thicknesses in less than 2 hours usually, 4 hours at the outside in a Union Shop. It´s an alternative that is viable, especially if the pads you have now are ´too thick´ for what you need now.-..saves buying new pads.
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If you are blowing them, do more than simply clamp it better---figure out what is causing the detonation and you will be better off!
You can pull a lot of fuel past torque peak and make great power. We were really suprised by how much fuel we could pull out of JeffP´s engine after torque peak. We were in the high 12´s, and in some cases low 13´s with EGTs running cooler than we had previously. Then we satarted playing with timing and the EGTs wer coming down some more as we added advance. When the HP stopped coming, we backed off three degrees and called it good.
Then, he removed the ECU/EFI system, and we are now going to start all over with something else...
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1976 280Z 2+2 running JDM L20A inline six cylinder of 1998cc displacement in G/PRO:
Bad Day, Missed Shift.
Bad Shifts, but Best Speed.
Sounds Best, but not the fastest.
BTW, we were discussing "Slow" 2+2's right?
Feel free to stuff these down the throats of the 2+2 haters out there...muahahahahaha!
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A conical end is more important if you have a surge tank that is wider than it is tall. The smaller diameter and taller you can make it, with the fuel connections for filling and return at the top, the better.
If you have a 4" diameter tube, I'd cone the bottom for a 1/2" (-8)pickup if the tank was not at least 8-12" tall (including the cone).
A 3" diameter tube, I'd cone if it wasn't at least 6" tall. Usually 2X diameter of the tube will be enough to separate any air bubbles that may get in there and want to get sucked down into the intake for the main pump.
As far as flow goes, 3/8" (-6) line will be more than enough for most pumps, and if you can't get a positive pressure number in the surge tank at idle (1-2psi maximum at full bypass, minimum fuel requirement, maximum pump output flow) then you can always insert a small orifice into the return line to boost your surgetank pressure. If you build the return line to the tank from the surgetank oversized, you can always orifice the line. You build it too small, and you're cutting and welding something that has had fuel in it...
For a stock setup, on a stock L28ET, I used 8mm return lines, a 10mm feed line from the boost pump, and a 12mm line for the EFI pump pickup. And that was using one of the 6mm emissions vapor barbs on the top of the 240 tank as the return point. Sucking out of a stock 240 tank, even during hard cornering I never had a hiccup with that setup. As I recall, the boost pump I was using had an internal cutoff at 2.5psi for carburettors, and occasionally I could hear it shut off and turn back on at idle, so my maxumim surge tank/return line pressure was probably around 3psi. Tank was 75mm in diameter, and basically was slightly shorter than the length of the upright that goes from the floor to the rear lower control arm behind the differential on an S30.
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And all this time I was led to believe the term '3/4 Race Cam' came from the duration being roughly 270 degrees...
In Auto Tech class, the instructor was wont to say things like 'It doesn't mean sh*t, it's a term bred of ignorance!" but I'm not so critical as he. I also don't throw nuts and small bolts at people for asking stupid questions before 'thinking it out on your own'!(Like he was also wont to do!)
Hehe heheh hehe! "Ahhh, the old days of technical education, what would today's kids do?" LOL
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Great Article Miles!
Stiky! Stiky! Stiky!
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Yes, the 10mm line is enough to give your pump some place to pump...
If the pump deadheads, it gets into a cyclic situation similar to turbocharger surge. If you ever put a water pressure gauge on the block you can see some interesting things develop when you rev the engine cold... for one, you realize when the thermostat will lift! LOL
Anyway, a centrifugal pump likes to make flow at all times. The 'internal bypass' is there in case the external lines get corroded, therefore insuring the pump always has a bypass route. As long as you are reasonably responsible with your cooling system maintenance you won't have corrosion plugging issues.
I get told I'm crazy when I tell people there is an 'internal bypass' in the block that will do the same thing as the external line! (Someone on this forum said that as well....hmmmmm I ain't sayin!)
The damage comes when there is no place for the pump to push the water. Idle may allow that pump to bypass around the tips of the pump vanes. But you start upping the speed, and you basically have the same situation as a turbo at full tip speed and at peak efficiency coming up against a closed throttle valve. It bangs internally, and the reversal of flow causes a radical drop in pressure. The drop in pressure causes steam bubbles to immediately and explosively form...in some cases it can cause bits of metal to blow out of the impeller blades or the volute in the front cover. Cavitation damage. In large industrial engines I have seen this eat through CAST IRON housings!!! Steam formation in the cooling system---even the pump can cause errosion, pockets that look like 'corrosion' but in reality are cavitation signs, and impellers on the pump that wear away to uselessness. The cavitation can start at temperatures as low as 160 degrees if the thing is surging the correct amount and the antifreeze weak. If the pressure goes high enough, the thermostat spring will be forced to lift...but that's an extreme case.
Usually if there is proper coolant mix to prevent boiling, the cavitation will not be much of an issue in the pump, but the cavitation and 'surging' can do some stuff to your seal as well.
I would think with the higher volume of the Diesel Pump the bypass would be more important to prevent cavitation inside the pump.
There were some TSB's in the old days about 'cavitation' in the L-Series engines, and this is aside from the joke one referring to timing of the alternator to the water pump vanes!
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Good Numbers. I may go that route with my wife's car. I don't need an I/C for her to drive at 10psi, but when I flip the switch to go to 15+ methanol may make a more reasonable alternative than bothering with an I/C mounting...
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Brain Trust at work there, that is why they are saying the LY is a DOHC...
Absolute Brain Trust.
What broke on the T-5? JeffP pumped 450 through his with it screaming in protest, but nothing outright broke. I would suspect latent or marginal tranny to begin with if it's a major failure.
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Tim, I have done rockers like you did, the bodies were forgings from what I was told, and you just wanted to clean up the stress risers, and lighten the reciprocating end of the unit.
These are very similar to Honda Rockers used in the 70's, and by lightening them the valvetrain stability with the stock springs was increased quite dramatically. Matter of fact, a set of rockers I lightened and polished in a 3Y 250CC Single OHC Honda went through three engines...owner kept swapping the cam and rockers from engine to engine!
You just want your polishing marks to run longitudinally, and not across the beam.
I recently had an opportunity to look at some cut apart pieces, and Nissan Surface Hardening goes deeper than most would think... But these rocers are Forged, so you're O.K.
Looks Good. You can take a look at Mile's Setup, and take some more off the reciprocating end, his look a lot like what I reprofiled on the Hondas, and a few L's back in Japan.
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In the Beginning, He created the world, and on the 7th day, God Created Boost...and then he raced.
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That is the 'internal bypass port' I talk about continually, which others have said I'm crazy and which doesn't exist!
That port, in conjunction with the 10mm line off the lower thermostat housing are what are in the system to prevent Water Pump Cavitation from a zero-flow situation before the thermostat cracks and allows flow to the radiator.
If you rev the engine, the thermostat will open (it's only spring loaded) due to pressure buildup, but for idle warmup that passage and the one in the lower thermostat housing are the only way the water pump can circulate the coolant around the block without deadheading.
IF YOU OPEN YOUR HEATER CORE CONTROL VALVE SLIGHTLY IT DOES THE SAME THING.
People many times remove the external bypass, but a lot of them ignore this internal one---which usually is the only one that keeps the water pump from deadheading against the closed thermostat during warmup.
If you have a F/O style setup, or external lines venting the head that bypasses the thermostat, these holes/bypasses are not required.
And again, even if you don't, cracking your heater core will allow the flow and prevent water pump / water pump housing damage from deadheading during warmup.
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The Japanese were routinely running 125mm exhaust systems on Twin-Turbo High-Horsepower (444Kw to the rear wheels) S30's in the 80's.
Sure, 75mm Single or Twin 50mm was what all the N/A guys were running, but the Big Turbo Guys were fitting those sewer pipes under there...
The only real tight spot is near the differential, really. Everyplace else you can fit just about anything else you want.
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Geez, if that's the same 'Buffum' that was running a TR7 in the 76 POR WRC Rally, then yeah...I'd agree that photo was old! LOL
(Same guy got more noteriety driving RX7's and an Audi Quattro later in his career!)
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Have fun, guys. My flight leaves for Spa on Wednesday... This would have been a good road trip. Was looking forward to Sebring and Daytona in the Fairlady...
But 'expenses paid to Spa' wins out over 'pay my own way to the Convention'... Heck, I even bought a new DSLR for photos!
Somebody post lots of pictures! I figure I will, eventually.
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I Can't believe this hasn't been said yet:
"Man, I thought my silver car which is NA and runs mid 12's was fast, but DAMN, this car would eat my silver car for LUNCH, and DINNER at only 7 PSI."
Feeeel the power of the dark side young Bryan. Feel the power, let it guide you, boost knows all, boost solves all, let it infuse through you and invite it into your soul!
Bubbles, I am your Father!
BWAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHHAHAHAHAHAHA!
BTW, JG Engine Dynamics did porting work on TC24B-1's back in the 90's, and was not impressed in total flow numbers, compared with their L-Heads (for the costs involved, and inability to make bigger numbers). They did several at that time.
Yes, this is the shop that Edlebrock bought, and that all the Honda Guys Cream over. They did L-Engines years before anybody looked sideways at a Honda on the West Coast Performancewise.
And I have personally been ferried around in an LY powered S30 here in SoCal. Matter of fact, the car drove from LA, to Vegas, and back, as well as participating in the ZCCA Convention there in 2000. I think...yep, he was back in 2004 for the ZCCA Convention that year as well...which is when all those High-Resolution Photos of the LY with the Red Valve Cover started circulating----right after I posted them fresh off my brandy-new Nikon Coolpix 4300!!! So yeah, there's been an LY here as well... Remember what I say: "Never Say Never, and there's always somebody faster, so what's the point (of boasting)?" Had to clarify that since some people have been misinterpreting that 'so what's the point' comment...
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Unless you are going wet turbos, blowthrough cannot go over around 12 psi from my research. Over that and you will crush the float bowls. High boost equals EFI.
That only applies to Webers and other carbs with hollow Brass Floats.
Mikuni, OER, SK, and Dellorto Sidedrafts all have composition floats, and have absolutely no issues with boost pressures above 2 bar (30psi).
Webers with hollow brass floats usually start collapsing anywhere between 7 and 10+ psi.
Seeing a car dyno 444Kw to the rear wheels on Mikuini Blowthroughs in 1986, I wonder if it was only the language barrier that held up development on this side of the pond...
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O.K. I'll post the anecdote.
I drove my 260Z from LA to ABQ for the convention. This car would get hot in the desert with a three core and a 160 thermostat if you were pushing 80+ mph in 110+ heat. What I noticed was that every time we stopped for gas, the car would 'puke over' from the overflow, and you could hear the steam popping in the coolant system after shutdown. All in all, I puked a whole gallon out in 1500 miles of driving.
Fast Forward:
Same Car, same everything, but going to Kingston Ontario for another convention. Decided to drain the coolant and replace with EG mix 50/50 and Water Wetter. It was simply 50/50 EG before, so the only difference was the addition of the WW. Now, knowing I used a gallon of top-up fluid in my 1500 mile run at ABQ, I decided to make up 2 gallons for the Canada Trip...and once there could refill those jugs for the trip back.
I drive on with the water wetter in there, going up the Baker Grade on I15, the car starts to surge a little bit, but nothing like what we had the previous year when taking across the same stretch out of Barstow. My first fillup I'm interested to see that there is no 'pukeover' from my radiator. Concerned that I may have boiled a bunch out I relieve pressure and check again...radiator is full. Hmmmmm. Then I realized I didn't have any 'steam sounds' coming out of the thing, either. I start watching closer as I drive at altitude, across deserts, and at high rates of speed with the A/C on (110mph across Iowa, in 103 degree heat, with an interior temperature of 70 degrees A/C unit running full blast!!! Temperature on the gauge: left of center by a needlewidth!) During the whole trip never went past 190 degrees observed, and I didn't use a DROP of makeup fluid. The car just didn't 'puke over' after shutdown like it did before adding the Water Wetter.
So I think the Water Wetter stuff does have an effect on heat transfer, and makes for more efficient cooling. I use it in all my cars now, and notice similar results. If it wasn't for the lack of pukeover (which the car WAS doing not a week before the trip when I was doing shakedowns and picking up the supplies to do the glycol change) I would not have made the connection between the ONE component in the system that had been changed.
The heater connection near the back side of the head is just that: a heater connection, nothing more. It gives the heater a nice hot watersource before the thermostat opens, and as it's opening still has a good hot supply of water to feed the heater core. When the heater is off, there is no bypass function. During warmup, it does serve as a bypass IF the heater valve is activated to give heat to the cabin.
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Some people take the doubler plates, and instead of putting the wheels beneath the legs, they install them out in front of the legs. This makes for a clearance equal to whatever the diameter is of your wheel... At the expense of the front wheels being fixed now, instead of being on casters.
I, too, now have hard rubber wheels on mine. The originals I got were flatspotted from when they towed it out of the shop and put it on a trailer to the impound yard (mine is from an impound sale from an LAPD ChopShop Bust!) Hey, for $15 who cares if I had to replace the wheels!
I Need To Cut an Axle in half, what will do?
in Drivetrain
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Hacksaw with the carbide Remington Rem/Grit Blade like you use to cut ceramic and glass tiles.
But since when is a gas/axe a ´power tool´?
Circlip will probably be a LOT easier than using a carbide saw to cut through it! Failing that, take the whole assembly and do it someplace you can get access with a proper set of tools.