Tony D
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Posts posted by Tony D
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That's it exactly! Government monopoly n cigarette supplies! LOL
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NPT threads that size are designed to be sealed at 1/4-3/4 turn past finger tight.
Use some Loctite 567 or similar, go no more than 3/4 turn from finger-tight and let the sensor set for two hours before you pressurize it...I'll wager that will be Helium Bubble Free Sealed to 10Bar.
I put my IAT sensor in my 60mm TB Adapter Plate. Lots of meat there to tap!
I used the Cold Start Injector hole and flanged fitting as a Idle Air Bypass Entrance for setting up the idle speed.
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I put 195's on 8" rims when I shipped my car from Japan in 89... Had to bind the tread with a cargo strap to seat the beads.
Figured the setup looked so crappy nobody would want to steal them.
I was right. Everybody that saw the car commented on how stupid the wheels looked. Driving to the port some guys in a new R32 GTR eyed me in a flared, turboed S30 with a set of (I guess now referred to as...) stretched 195's on 14x8's in wheel wells made for 295's on 14x13's driving to the port remarking "bakariu gaijin"... It was really east to roast 'em. I think those rims and tires are actually still mounted... I only used it as a way to move the car and bring an extra set of JDM Alloys back...
I guess someone saw it and the seed took. Sorry guys!
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An oil pickup coming loose and sucking air will do that (ala Bubbles in Atlanta)
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It's 214 AM...man I want to reply... Must sleep. At least I can find this again now...
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See also "Fake Brembos" post and consider the consequences...
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Buying CHINESE parts on price is no guarantee on quality.
As a sourcing agent who does spot audits on vendors, I'd never knowingly buy a safety part manufactured in Big China.
When you're dead, who do you complain to?
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That's what a bike rack is for: lock the bed, take the bike into the hotel room.
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Those are not "Black Pearl" rims, they are standard S30 alloys available from mid 75 (or so)-onwards. They were introduced on the Fairlady Z-E at the Tokyo Motor Show on the new fuel injected model (I don't have my photo archive available, but they may have been on the 260ZG-E 2/2 at the December 1973 Tokyo Motor Show.
My 76 and 77 Fairlady Z both had them, as did many 280Z's in the USA. It was the standard Nissan Factory Alloy worldwide for the later model S30 (and domestic S31's), and was on 79ZX's as well.
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Oh, now reading the responses...all I can say is "you don't understand the cooling system, you are making a bigger mistake."
It's not difficult to get a 300HP L28 that will run in desert heat all day long under track conditions in the summer (willow springs big track, or Streets Course)
If you can't figure that out, don't lecture anybody pointing out the flaws in your stayed logic.
Just on the basis of that response, I'd vote to shed this post and say "try again"... I don't agree with NewZed on much, but he's spot on in his statement, and your response was bot childish and uncalled for in return.
If you want more power, just say so. Don't use the excuse of "we lost the engines to heat"--that is your failing, nobody else's! Keeping a high output L28 Cool in SoCal is not rocket science. You're asking for more issues without solving your (stated) root cause problem first.
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It may be just me, but I would recommend you solve your cooling issue first.
Putting in a bigger engine, or a turbocharged mill of similar configuration into a chassis where you "lose engines to heat" does not seem like the logical next step.
You should not be losing any N/A L28 "to heat" in SoCal. Never. That's a cooling issue, not an engine issue!
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To pass inspection, you had yo have something in that clip. Most lost the flashlight and substituted the road flares.
Later cars had two clips, which I find had to reconcile against never having flares there...seems redundant for two flashlights...
And the early parts book shows both in that spot.
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A good ending...glad to hear it.
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1000cc injectors? Planning on a 1200HP L-Series?
You will need more than that to use those injectors!
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Wide... Porsche 930 Flares front and back on the one car, metal abortions on the other I cut away when I had the chance!
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Easiest... So then where's your reference point for correct?
Drop the oil pump, re index the shaft, and reinstall.
It takes all of twenty minutes and is FAR easier than hacking up a distributor IMO...
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It's over a gallon...but you can't put that in there and mount it...
You fill halfway, run it through D.N.R a few times, check the oil and top off...usually adding 2 or 3 more quarts.
Remember to have it level, and in the proper gear as stated in the FSM when checking. Overfilling makes a terrible frothy mess underneath...but keeps you safer from road salt I suppose!
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Only one set... O.G. 14x13 & 14x10's reeeeeally light... Draw from that what you will.
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China ripping off high quality, highly engineered components that can get people killed?
Really?
You don't say!
Wow, ever since that arsenic & Prussian Blue to make the tea leaves green it's gone downhill...
Check out the crash tests of the China Copy Bentley, BMW, & Mercedes. Can you say "decapitation"?
Another quick buck copier in China. The Emperor encouraged it, so it was written, so still is it done.
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DatTat? Who Dat?
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Oil pan should be above crossmember.
If not...shame on you!
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C.A.D.?
Chickenwire
Aided
Design?
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Oh you mean you're making "Wireframe Model"? Using older hardware...Ver. 1939? I don't want to become enmeshed in this...
Lost oil pressure on new motor
in Nissan L6 Forum
Posted · Edited by Tony D
That's a calibrated distance... If your. Oil pump is so far out the shaft is not engaging, then the oil feed and suction ports are also misaligned by that 1/2" you reference! The pickup gun drilling in the block is only 10 or 12 mm to begin with...
Start measuring, and find another pump to compare!